BELOW  THE  EQUATOR 


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BELOW  THE  EQUATOR 


THE  STORY  OF  A  TOUR  THROUGH  THE 
COUNTRIES  OF  SOUTH  AMERICA 


BY 


EDITH  OGDEN  HARRISON 

thor  of  "The  Lady  of  the  Snoivs,"  "Princess  Sayran 
"Clemencia^s  Crisis/'  "Prince  Sil'ver'wings,'*  Etc. 


CHICAGO 

A.  C.  McCLURG  &  CO. 

1918 


ESERVAT?OM 
^YAODEO 
GINAL  TO  BE 
AINED 


EB  0  9  1993 


Copyright 

A.  C.  McClurg  &  Co. 

1918 


Published  November,  1918 


W.  F.  HALL  PRINTING  COMPANY,  CHICAGO 


Co 


Digitized  by  tine  Internet  Arciiive 

in  2007  witii  funding  from 

IVIicrosoft  Corporation 


littp://www.arcliive.org/details/belowequatorstorOOIiarrricli 


ACKNOWLEDGMENT 

For  the  use  of  the  photographs  from  which  the  pictures 
in  this  book  are  made,  I  am  indebted  to  Mr.  E.  M.  New- 
man, whose  illustrated  travel  talks  please  and  instruct 
enormous  audiences,  and  to  my  husband,  Carter  H.  Harri- 
son, whose  first  thought  when  preparing  for  a  trip  to  other 
lands  and  places  is  of  his  camera. 

E.  O.  H. 


FOREWORD 

OUR  voyage  down  the  South  Seas  began  at  the 
Isthmus  of  Panama,  and  it  is  difficult  to 
write  without  dwelling  at  least  briefly  on  the  won- 
ders of  the  great  Canal.  Never  has  the  immensity 
of  government  work  impressed  me  so  much  as 
there.  Never  has  the  importance  of  that  work  so 
forced  itself  upon  my  mind.  From  a  jungle  has 
sprung  a  beautiful  land  teeming  with  rich  cultiva- 
tion, with  busy  people.  In  place  of  a  pestilential 
hole  of  death  there  now  smiles  a  land  of  health  and 
prosperity.  We  thrilled  with  the  pride  of  its  ac- 
complishment, and  we  gloried  in  belonging  to  a 
country  that  had  made  all  this  possible.  In  this  lit- 
tle book  on  our  South  American  travels  there  is  no 
place  to  tell  of  these  wonders  nor  of  the  many  acts 
of  courtesy  and  kindness  that  made  our  visit  pleas- 
ant and  instructive;  I  cannot  refrain,  however, 
from  thanking  General  Clarence  Edwards — Com- 
manding General  —  and  his  charming  wife,  Consul 
and  Mrs.  Dreher,  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Samuel  M. 
Heald,  for  the  splendid  hospitality  they  extended 
to  us.  Because  of  their  warm  and  hospitable  recep- 
tion of  us  we  were  able  to  partake  to  the  full  of 


Foreword 


the  many  enjoyments  the  Isthmus  has  to  offer. 
[Since  this  book  was  written  General  Edwards* 
name  has  become  famous  in  Europe.  He  has  been 
cited  by  General  Pershing  for  bravery,  and  deco- 
rated for  his  valor  and  splendid  service.] 


CONTENTS 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

I  The  Spell  of  South  America    ...  i 

II     Beginning  the  Journey 6 

III  The  Guano  Islands i8 

IV  Some  Peculiar  Customs 24 

V     The  Story  of  Peru 32 

VI     The  City  of  the  Kings 37 

VII     Impressions  of  Lima 43 

VIII     The  Peru  of  Today 48 

IX  Matucana  and  the  Verruga      ...  57 

X     Soroche 65 

XI     The  Southern  Cross 74 

XII  El  Misti  and  Quinta  Bates     ...  81 

XIII  Earthquakes  and  Indians    ....  86 

XIV  Cuzco 96 

XV     Lake  Titicaca 108 

XVI     Bolivia 113 

XVII     La  Paz 124 

XVIII     Arica       130 

XIX     Tacna 139 

XX  The  Cross  on  the  Mountain    .     .     .  144 

XXI     The  Nitrate  Fields 148 

XXII     The  "Tin  King" 152 

XXIII  Valparaiso 158 

XXIV  Santiago  and  Christobal  Mountain    .  165 
XXV  The  Christ  of  the  Andes    ....  173 


Contents 


CHAPTER  PAGE 

XXVI    The  Bird  of  the  Andes 184 

XXVII     Mendoza 188 

XXVIII  The  Pampas      ........  193 

XXIX    Buenos  Aires 201 

XXX     Estancias 208 

XXXI     Montevideo 213 

XXXII     Brazil 218 

XXXIII  Rio  de  Janeiro .  223 

XXXIV  The  Tijuca  Jungle 236 

XXXV    The  Trees  of  Brazil 243 

XXXVI     Turning  Homeward 252 

XXXVII     Sao  Paulo    .     .     .  ^ 258 

XXXVIII     The  Snake  Hospital 267 

XXXIX    A  Model  Penitentiary 275 


ILLUSTRATIONS 

PAGE 
Fountain  in  Plaza  de  Mayo,  Buenos  Aires    .    Frontispiece 

Cathedral,  Payta,  Peru 26 

A  Street  in  Payta,  Peru 26 

Lake  of  the  Incas 27 

The  Author  on  the  Throne  of  the  Incas    ....  27 

Hall  of  the  Inquisition,  Lima,  Peru 38 

Great  Cathedral  at  Lima,  where  Pizarro  Is  Buried  38 

Cathedral  Entrance,  Lima,  Peru 39 

Santa  Rosa  de  los  Monjas,  Lima,  Peru     ....  39 

Cathedral,  Lima,  Peru 52 

San  Marcos  University,  Lima,  Peru 52 

Old  Spanish  Church,  Pisco,  Peru 53 

Convent  of  San  Francisco,  Lima,  Peru     ....  53 

Indians,  Cuzco,  Peru 60 

Llamas  in  a  Street  at  Matucana,  Peru    ...         .60 

Oroya  Railroad  in  the  Andes,  Peru 61 

Crest  of  the  Andes 61 

Landing  a  Passenger  (Mrs.  Harrison)  at  Mollendo, 

Peru 76 

Casa  de  Torrey  Tagle,  Lima,  Peru 76 

Harvard  Observatory,  Arequipa,  Peru 77 

Cathedral,  Arequipa,  Peru 77 

Street  in  Cuzco,  Peru 98 

Cathedral  at  Cuzco,  Peru 98 

A  Narrow  Cavernous  Street  in  Cuzco,  Peru    ...  99 


Illustrations 


PAGE 

Gateway,  Cuzco,  Peru .  99 

Ruins  of  Ancient  Inca  Forts,  Cuzco,  Peru  .     .     .     .  no 

Town  of  Juliaca,  Peru no 

Rapid  Transit  in  Chile in 

Group  of  Llamas  Resting m 

La  Paz,  Bolivia 126 

A  Gathering  of  Indians  in  La  Paz,  Bolivia     .     .     .  126 

Balsa  Boat ^ 127 

Group  of  Indians  at  La  Paz 127 

Cathedral,  Santiago  de  Chile 170 

El  Morro,  Arica,  Chile 170 

The  Capitol,  Buenos  Aires 202 

Cathedral,  Buenos  Aires 202 

Vista  in  an  Argentinian  Estancia 203 

Marble  Spanish  Monument,  Buenos  Aires    .     .     .  203 

An  Argentinian  Estancia 210 

Municipal  Theater,  Santos,  Brazil 210 

Restaurant  in  Rio  de  Janeiro 226 

Cathedral,  Rio  de  Janeiro 226 

Botanical  Gardens,  Rio  de  Janeiro 227 

Avenida  Central,  Rio  de  Janeiro 232 

Municipal  Theater,  Rio  de  Janeiro 232 

Rue  de  Paysanda,  Rio  de  Janeiro 240 

Sugar  Loaf,  Rio  de  Janeiro 240 

Municipal  Theater,  Sao  Paulo,  Brazil 268 

Snake  Farm  Near  Sao  Paulo,  Brazil    .....  268 


BELOW  THE  EQUATOR 


BELOW  THE  EQUATOR 

CHAPTER  I 

THE   SPELL   OF    SOUTH   AMERICA 

HAD  anyone  told  me  a  month  before  I  started 
to  South  America  that  I  should  really  go  I 
should  have  heard  the  statement  with  surprise. 
True,  for  years  my  husband  and  I  had  cherished 
the  hope  that  some  day  we  might  visit  this  wonder- 
ful country  where  the  snow-capped  mountains 
dwarf  the  Alps,  their  smoking  volcanoes  loftier 
than  any  the  rest  of  the  world  knows,  and  where 
lies  a  glorious  sheet  of  water  higher  than  the 
Rockies!  But  when  the  opportunity  came  we 
were  almost  unprepared  to  realize  it. 

It  chances  that  the  man  to  whom  I  am  married 
is  one  who  could  never  be  counted  as  a  drone 
among  his  fellow-creatures.  During  most  of  our 
life  together  his  has  been  a  career  of  public  duty, 
having  served  Chicago  as  mayor  five  terms,  as 
did  also  his  father,  Carter  H.  Harrison,  whose 
namesake  he  Is.  These  duties  had  always  held  him 
so  closely  that  he  was  never,  willing  to  spend  more 
than  twenty-one  consecutive  days  outside  Its  limits. 
How,  then,  could  we  visit  any  portion  of  the  globe 

1 


Below  the  Equator 


which  lay  more  than  a  hundred  miles  away?  And 
yet  —  strange  people  and  strange  countries  have 
always  called  to  us.  The  rapid  advancement  of 
any  country,  its  manner  and  means  of  achieving 
progress,  were  always  studied  closely  by  both  of 
us.  We  love  old  ruins,  temples,  and  had  made  as 
much  of  a  study  of  antiquities  as  we  could.  Dur- 
ing these  years  It  had  been  with  a  feeling  of  envy 
that  I  had  seen  my  friends  come  and  go.  But  as 
a  devoted  wife  I  was  never  willing  to  leave  the 
man  whose  highest  duty,  we  both  believed,  lay  in 
staying  at  home.  Thus  it  happened  that  when  the 
time  came  that  we  really  felt  we  might  indulge 
in  this  long-desired  wish  to  journey  to  strange 
lands,  we  scarcely  knew  where  to  begin.  A  terrible 
tragedy  in  Europe  had  horrified  and  saddened  the 
whole  world,  and  little  we  dreamed  then  that  later 
we  would,  for  humanity's  sale,  be  obliged  to  take 
part  in  it 

The  war,  of  course,  made  Europe  out  of  the 
question,  so  South  America  seemed  to  beckon  us. 
The  spell,  the  lure  t)f  this  far-away  land,  was  upon 
us  both.  We  determined  to  start  at  once.  So  it 
came  to  pass  that  in  about  a  month  all  prepara- 
tions were  complete.  Trunks  were  packed  and 
we  were  off  to  the  land  of  the  Southern  Cross,  the 
land  of  great  countries,  wonderful  cities,  mines  of 
wealth  untold.  We  were  really  to  see  the  towering 
Andes  and  gaze  In  wonder  at  the  shimmering  blue 


The  Spell  of  South  America  3 

lakes  and  the  streams  which  rush  down  the  moun- 
tain sides,  looking  like  fluttering  white  ribbons 
against  the  red  sandstone  slopes.  It  was  hard  to 
believe,  but  at  last  we  were  off  to  this  seductive 
country.  We  left  Chicago  on  the  second  day  of 
December,  bearing  in  mind  that  in  the  land  below 
the  equator  the  seasons  are  reversed  and  that  it 
would  be  summer  there  when  we  arrived. 

When  reading  the  history  of  South  America 
one  must  always  remember  the  policy  of  the  Span- 
ish invaders.  As  a  conquering  race  their  aim  was 
to  crush  out  the  vanquished  foe  and  never  to  absorb 
any  useful  feature  the  latter  might  possess.  His- 
tory records  that  wherever  the  Spanish  arms  have 
been  victorious  this  has  ever  been  the  case,  and  it 
has  often  been  a  matter  of  speculation  among  great 
writers  as  to  what  the  result  would  have  been  had 
a  higher  standard  of  morals  been  theirs.  Spain's 
accepted  belief  was  that  whatever  she  did  was  the 
best  for  the  people.  She  viewed  with  distress  any 
good  emanating  from  another  nation.  "A  differ- 
ence from  me  is  a  measure  of  your  absurdity.** 
This  was  her  standard.  This  self-satisfied  dogma 
she  carried  out  in  all  her  conquests.  During  her 
supremacy  over  the  Moors  she  endeavored  to  blot 
out  every  characteristic  they  possessed,  with  no 
thought  of  any  future  benefit  to  Spain.  The  same 
treatment  followed  the  conquering  of  the  Jewish 
population.   Thus,  when  the  Spaniards  arrived  in 


Below  the  Equator 


South  America  the  kind  reception  accorded  them 
by  the  natives  counted  for  nothing.  They  enslaved 
the  people,  treating  them  cruelly,  and  in  their 
search  for  gold  forgot  every  law  of  humanity. 
Horrible  stories  are  told  of  their  cruelty,  one  of 
which  I  will  mention  as  an  example.  It  is  related 
by  Padre  Casas  that  when  a  famine  threatened 
among  those  whom  they  had  made  slaves,  the 
Spaniards  killed  daily  a  certain  number  of  the 
unfortunate  victims,  that  they  might  serve  as  food 
for  their  beasts  of  burden.  Surely  history  fur- 
nishes no  greater  instance  of  hideous  barbarity. 

The  Spanish  historians,  of  course,  claim  that 
these  actions  were  only  in  accordance  with  the 
spirit  of  the  age.  But  the  civilized  world  differs 
from  them,  and  common  opinion  is  that  in  spite 
of  many  acts  which  revealed  qualities  of  bravery, 
the  early  days  of  Spanish  rule  in  South  America 
were  nothing  of  which  to  be  proud.  It  cannot  be 
denied,  however,  that  the  Spaniards  possessed  per- 
sonal courage.  As  soldiers  they  were  invincible. 
They  won  their  way  in  the  face  of  incredible  hard- 
ships. To  gain  their  ends  they  crossed  bare 
stretches  of  arid  desert,  and,  although  tortured 
with  thirst  and  gnawed  with  the  pangs  of  hunger, 
they  never  complained.  Sword  in  one  hand,  the 
cross  in  the  other,  missionaries  and  soldiers  alike 
did  a  stupendous  work.  It  must  not  be  forgotten 
that  the  policy  of  the  Catholic  Church  in  South 


The  Spell  of  South  America  5 

America  brought  about  in  many  ways  the  orderly 
conduct  of  the  natives.  The  unparalleled  efforts 
of  this  church  in  the  early  days  established  there 
the  religion  which  now  has  so  firm  a  grip  in  South 
America. 

In  the  early  days  of  the  history  of  this  country 
the  Pacific  slope  of  the  Andes  was  very  different 
from  the  Atlantic  side.  The  Spaniards  found  at 
Cuzco,  and  the  many  cities  ruled  by  the  Incas  and 
their  tribes,  great  communities  high  in  civilization. 
The  people  lived  under  settled  conditions,  had 
towns  and  roads,  and  cultivated  agricultural  fields. 
It  is  deplorable  that  the  conquerors  did  not  encour- 
age them  to  preserve  their  institutions  while  adopt- 
ing the  more  modern  civilization.  One  of  the 
greatest  mistakes  Spain  ever  made  was  the  crush- 
ing out  of  the  individuality  of  these  tribes,  killing 
all  ambition  within  them  by  enslaving  them. 

Though  the  Spaniards  recognized  at  once  the 
great  possibilities  of  South  America  in  her  wealth 
of  material  and  precious  stones,  they  seem  to  have 
forgotten  conscience  and  all  humanity.  They  were 
willing  to  face  terrible  hardships  in  this  world  and 
the  loss  of  heaven  in  the  next  with  their  desire  to 
attain  this  wealth.  However,  the  belief  of  those 
early  explorers  and  conquerors  has  been  verified. 
We  know  that  we  have  today  in  this  country  a  land 
whose  possibilities  in  wealth  have  not  been  exag- 
gerated. 


CHAPTER  II 

BEGINNING  THE   JOURNEY 

FROM  the  Isthmus  of  Panama  we  sailed  via 
Cia:  Peruana  de  Vapores,  on  a  Peruvian 
steamer,  the  Urubamba,  commanded  by  Cap- 
tain Steers.  All  Peruvian  steamers,  by  the  way, 
bear  the  names  of  the  rivers  comprising  the  source 
of  the  Amazon.  A  stiff  breeze  was  with  us.  The 
air  was  cool,  the  boat  clean,  and  the  food  good. 
Early  the  next  morning,  however,  I  awoke  under 
the  impression  that  I  was  on  a  farm.  Somewhere 
in  close  proximity  I  heard  cattle  lowing,  chickens 
crowing,  ducks  quacking,  and  lambs  bleating — 
soothing  sounds  which  gave  promise  of  the  nice 
long  rest  we  had  planned  I  The  barnyard  we  car- 
ried, however,  held  one  pathetic  note.  Each  day 
we  wandered  in  the  vicinity  of  it  and  could  not  help 
becoming  interested  in  the  inhabitants.  All  of  a 
sudden,  however,  we  began  to  miss  familiar  faces. 
Day  after  day  the  tragedy  continued,  and  we  were 
impressed  deeply  with  the  truth  of  the  old  couplet : 

ifVe  may  live  without  poetry,  music,  or  books. 
But  civilized  man  cannot  live  without  cooks. 
6 


Beginning  the  Journey 


This  charming  menagerie  was  located  just  be- 
neath our  cabin.  There  was  no  possibility  of 
escape  from  the  delightful  music,  so  we  resigned 
ourselves  to  It.  Day  and  night  we  enjoyed  it.  The 
boat  carried  Its  meat  In  this  manner,  killing  what 
was  needed  for  each  day.  In  that  climate  it  is  not 
possible  to  keep  meat  longer. 

On  board  we  were  a  motley  but  interesting 
crowd.  Many  nations  were  represented.  In  addi- 
tion to  English,  one  heard  French,  German,  Ital- 
ian, and  Spanish  spoken.  Our  most  prominent 
passenger  was  the  greatest  bullfighter  in  the  world, 
from  Mexico.  He  was  accompanied  by  his  "  Car- 
men," and  they  attracted  much  more  attention  than 
did  the  owner  of  the  richest  mine  in  South  Amer- 
ica. "  Carmen  "  was  a  delightful  little  piece  of  femi- 
ninity. She  occupied  a  first-class  cabin,  while  he 
went  steerage.  She  owned  a  brilliantly  colored 
macaw,  and  the  two  sat  on  deck  dally  talking  to 
the  screeching  bird.  The  man  was  a  most  incon- 
gruous sight.  Picture,  if  you  can,  a  man  of  ath- 
letic figure  and  thick  neck,  wearing  the  daintiest 
of  pInk-satIn  slippers,  high  French  heels,  and  the 
finest  of  silk  socks  I 

As  we  journeyed  along  we  listened  to  many 
marvelous  tales  of  the  country  we  were  about  to 
visit  and  of  the  hardships  we  would  have  to  endure 
in  the  interior.  By  the  time  we  arrived  at  our 
point  of  departure  for  the  interior  we  felt  not 


8  Below  the  Equator 

unlike  the  intrepid  Spaniards  themselves  who  first 
entered  it.  But,  imbued  with  their  spirit  of  enter- 
prise, we  were  equally  undaunted  in  our  desire  for 
adventure.  The  first  of  our  many  surprises  came 
to  us  in  crossing  the  equator.  We  had  supposed 
that  we  would  be  stifled  with  the  heat.  Instead, 
we  were  wrapped  in  steamer  rugs,  wore  fur  coats, 
and  were  still  cold.  Hopes  of  a  delightful  soft  air 
and  sunshine  vanished.  We  were  told  that  the  cold 
weather  we  were  encountering  would  continue  for 
thousands  of  miles  down  the  coast.  The  Atlantic 
side  is  warm,  even  hot.  But  the  western  side  of 
the  continent  is  cooled  by  the  great  Antarctic  cur- 
rent—  the  Humboldt  current,  as  they  call  it,  in 
honor  of  the  illustrious  traveler  who  first  observed 
and  explained  it.  It  carries  up  from  southern 
Chile  to  a  distance  north  of  the  equator  a  vast 
body  of  cold  water  which  chills  both  ocean  and  air, 
frequently  enveloping  everything  in  clouds  of  fog. 
In  fact,  these  fogs  are  so  heavy  and  frequent  as  to 
cause  anxiety  to  the  navigator,  for  the  impene- 
trable mist  makes  traveling  dangerous  between  the 
Isthmus  and  the  Gulf  of  Guayaquil.  Along  the 
coast  of  Colombia  and  Ecuador  magnificent  for- 
ests are  grown.  The  heavy  rains  come  in  summer 
—  the  wet  season.  But  at  the  boundary  line  be- 
tween Ecuador  and  Peru  the  conditions  change  and 
there  is  a  rainless  tract  which  extends  down  the 
coast  as  far  as  Coquimbo  and  Chile.     Here  the 


Beginning  the  Journey 


Antarctic  current  causes  heavy  and  frequent  mists 
because  the  land  is  warmer  than  the  ocean.  But 
these  mists  provide  the  only  moisture  the  country 
has,  as  no  rain  ever  falls  there.  For  nearly  two 
thousand  miles  the  coast  is  dry  and  sterile.  It  is  a 
dismal,  barren  desert  for  all  this  distance,  except 
for  an  occasional  river  made  by  the  snows  of  the 
Andes.  Only  where  these  rivers  empty  into  the 
ocean  does  one  find  a  strip  of  green. 

We  passed  many  charming  islands.  The  Gala- 
pagos were  too  far  away  for  us  to  see,  but  we  knew 
that  the  United  States  was  trying  to  buy  them 
from  Ecuador.  The  latter  country  neither  needs 
nor  wants  them,  but,  like  the  proverbial  dog  in  the 
manger,  she  refuses  to  let  go.  One  very  pretty 
island  is  called  La  Plata,  and  it  is  here  that  Sir 
Francis  Drake  is  said  to  have  hidden  two  hundred 
thousand  pounds  of  gold,  the  money  he  captured 
from  the  Spaniards.  A  charming  little  hamlet  on 
one  of  the  islands  is  called  Saint  Esmeraldas.  A 
large  church  picturesquely  situated  on  an  eminence 
made  us  long  to  stop  and  go  through  it.  Flooded 
with  sunshine,  it  looked  attractive,  set  in  the  heart 
of  those  barren  hills.  Oh,  what  a  lonely  country 
in  which  to  live  I 

Steaming  up  the  beautiful  Gulf  of  Guayaquil, 
we  entered  the  mouth  of  the  Guayas  River.  In  the 
distance  were  dim  gray  mountains.  We  were  fast 
approaching  our  first  port,  Guayaquil,  Ecuador  — 


10  Below  the  Equator 

the  prettiest  spot  on  the  western  coast,  but,  alas, 
the  most  unhealthy !  Guayaquil  is  never  free  from 
the  yellow  fever  and  the  bubonic  plague.  It  is  the 
pest-hole  of  the  Pacific.  As  we  sailed  up  the  river, 
however,  glimpsing  the  city  for  the  first  time,  it 
was  hard  to  believe  that  its  reputation  was  de- 
served. Like  the  whited  sepulcher,  its  horrors  are 
concealed,  and  that  which  we  could  see  called  forth 
only  admiration.  Ecuador  is  not  by  any  means 
the  most  progressive  of  South  American  coun- 
tries. The  deadly  yellow  fever  has  been  practi- 
cally exterminated  from  every  portion  of  South 
America  except  the  Amazon  River.  It  seems  a 
shame,  therefore,  that  lovely  Guayaquil  should 
have  so  bad  a  reputation.  Havana,  Colon,  Rio  de 
Janeiro,  and  Santos,  even  beautiful  New  Orleans 
in  our  own  country,  have  all  been  purified  and  ren- 
dered safe  from  this  deadly  disease  which  once 
ravaged  these  cities.  Therefore  it  is  not  only 
deplorable,  but  criminal,  that  such  a  menace  should 
be  permitted  to  continue  in  Guayaquil.  But  until 
her  sanitation  is  looked  after  the  development 
of  Ecuador  will  be  slow  indeed,  if  not  actually 
arrested. 

It  must  be  remembered  that  Ecuador  was  a  part 
of  the  disputed  territory  which  led  to  the  sangui- 
nary struggle  between  Atahualpa  and  his  brother 
Huascar — a  struggle  which  gave  to  Pizarro  his 
opportunity  of  conquering  Peru.  The  Ecuadorians 


Beginning  the  Journey  11 

were  the  last  to  feel  the  revolutionary  impulses 
which  were  born  when  the  power  of  Spain  was 
broken,  and  it  was  not  until  Bolivar,  the  Liberator, 
and  San  Martin,  the  Argentine  general,  had  kin- 
dled the  torch  of  liberty  that  Ecuador  made  any 
attempt  to  break  away  from  the  old  allegiance. 
Its  history  since  then  has  been  turbulent,  but  only 
a  few  of  the  men  who  have  been  tossed  up  by  the 
seething  and  successive  revolutions  have  been  men 
of  marked  caliber.  Most  of  them  have  been  self- 
seekers,  degraded  in  character  and  of  small  intel- 
lect. The  result  has  been  that  Ecuador  is  the  worst 
governed  and  the  most  backward  of  all  the  South 
American  countries. 

As  an  illustration:  in  January,  19 12,  a  piece 
of  news  leaked  out  which  revealed  a  savagery 
almost  incredible.  The  generals  Alfana  and  Mon- 
tero,  who  were  at  the  head  of  the  latest  liberal 
revolt,  were  defeated  by  the  government  forces, 
and  those  in  power  set  about  to  punish  them. 
Montero  was  president  of  the  dissolved  revolu- 
tionary junta.  He  was  taken  from  prison,  dragged 
into  the  public  square,  where  a  great  fire,  already 
lighted,  awaited  him.  Into  this  the  unfortunate 
man  was  flung,  despite  his  resistance  and  cries  of 
horror,  and,  after  being  half  burned,  he  was 
dragged  out,  put  into  a  vat  of  water,  and  then 
flung  back  into  the  fire.  This  was  kept  up,  and 
his  torture  lasted  an  hour  before  death  released 


12  Below  the  Equator 

him.  This  took  place  at  Guayaquil.  At  Quito,  the 
capital,  two  hundred  miles  away,  they  were  doing 
worse  things.  Their  favorite  torture  was  cutting 
out  the  victims'  tongues. 

All  this  seems  incredible,  yet  it  is  a  matter  of 
history,  and  very  recent  history  at  that.  No  won- 
der that  the  South  Americans  feel  that  a  watchful 
eye  should  be  kept  on  Ecuador,  whose  greatest 
asset  now  is  the  Canal,  and  whose  hopes  of  civili- 
zation also  seem  to  lie  in  the  fact  that  she  is  so 
near  Panama. 

Ecuador  has  a  treasure  in  its  cacao  groves. 
If  she  possessed  nothing  else  they  would  make  her 
rich.  The  cacao  trees  grow  wild  in  the  forests, 
many  of  them  reaching  forty  feet  in  height.  The 
bean  furnishes  the  delicious  chocolate  and  cocoa 
we  drink,  and  its  leaves  furnish  cocaine. 

Although  we  saw  it  later,  we  were  disappointed 
not  to  get  a  view  at  this  time  of  wonderful  and 
far-famed  Chimborazo,  the  mountain  of  snow. 
However,  we  had  many  glorious  views  of  it  later. 
It  is  one  of  the  beauty  peaks  of  South  America 
and  rises  twenty-one  thousand  four  hundred  feet. 
For  a  long  time  this  mountain  held  the  honor  of 
being  called  the  highest  mountain  in  this  southern 
land,  but  the  mighty  Aconcagua  in  Chile,  which 
Harvard  University  at  Arequipa  records  as  twenty- 
four  thousand  and  sixty  feet  in  height,  has  finally 
been  awarded  the  palm.    Majestic  Chimborazo  is 


Beginning  the  Journey  13 

best  seen  from  the  sea,  and  from  the  harbor  its 
magnificent  proportion  can  be  studied;  I  think  the 
evening,  with  its  mellowing  light,  shows  it  to  finest 
advantage.  Those  few  minutes  before  night  en- 
velopes it  show  its  snow-crowned  top  and  thrill 
one  with  the  awe  that  its  great  height  is  sure  to 
inspire.  Neither  could  we  see  at  this  time  Coto- 
paxi,  five  times  as  high  as  Mount  Vesuvius,  and  the 
loftiest  of  active  volcanoes.  The  mist  and  low- 
lying  clouds  prevented.  One  of  the  mountains, 
Cayambe,  lies  exactly  on  the  equator,  and  for  this 
reason  is  distinguished  from  any  other  snow- 
capped peak  in  the  world.  It  is  the  highest  moun- 
tain of  the  eastern  Cordillera.  Near  Cotopaxi 
a  beautiful  truncated  cone  smokes  continuously. 
About  the  snow-clad  peak  a  gray  and  white  cloud 
forms  in  the  shape  of  an  enormous  branching  tree, 
and  near  the  snow  line  of  the  volcano  is  a  huge 
mass  of  rock  called  Inca's  Head.  It  is  said  to  be 
the  original  summit  of  the  mountain  torn  off  and 
hurled  below  on  the  day  of  the  execution  of  the 
Inca,  Atahualpa. 

Clear  and  beautiful  was  the  morning  on  which 
we  cast  anchor  a  quarter  of  a  mile  out  from  the 
town.  Here  we  found  a  strange  form  of  quaran- 
tine existing.  We  were  not  permitted  to  disembark 
if  we  desired  to  return  to  the  ship.  But  we  took 
both  passengers  and  cargo  aboard !  It  was  here 
that  we  purchased  the  finely  woven  Panama  hats 


14  Below  the  Equator 

at  just  half  the  price  at  which  they  were  first  offered 
to  us,  obtaining  for  twenty  and  twenty-five  dollars 
hats  which  would  sell  in  the  States  for  sixty  and 
sixty-five. 

The  finest  Panama  hats  in  the  world  are  woven 
in  southern  Ecuador.  It  is  the  greatest  distribut- 
ing center  of  the  Panama  hat  industry  in  the  world. 
Here  they  do  not  call  them  Panama,  however, 
but  Jipijapas,  in  honor  of  Jlpijapa,  the  village 
where  they  are  woven.  They  are  made  of  the 
fiber  of  a  palm  which  grows  in  Ecuador  and  Peru. 
The  fiber  must  always  be  kept  damp,  and  the  best 
time  to  make  them  is  in  the  cool  of  the  evening. 
This  has  given  rise  to  the  story  that  Panama  hats 
are  woven  under  water  and  in  the  moonlight. 
The  weavers  in  Ecuador  are  considered  the  most 
skilful  in  all  the  southern  countries.  Their  deli- 
cacy of  touch  is  equal  to  that  of  the  finest  lace 
makers  in  the  world.  They  told  us  here  of  a  hat 
once  woven  for  the  King  of  England,  so  exquisitely 
fine  that  it  folded  into  a  watchcase.  All  that  we 
saw  were  soft  and  durable  and  rolled  together 
without  the  slightest  injury. 

It  was  here  that  we  said  good-bye  to  a  charming 
old  French  priest,  Pere  LeGris,  who  was  on  his 
way  to  Quito.  He  had  some  difficulty  in  landing. 
On  account  of  the  trouble  this  country  had  with 
the  Jesuits  many  years  ago,  Ecuador  has  since 
barred  all  foreign  priests  from  entering  her  ports. 


Beginning  the  Journey  15 

However,  his  letters  got  him  through.  The  Jesuits 
were  so  powerful  in  the  early  days  of  Spanish 
America  that  they  were  regarded  as  having  super- 
natural wisdom.  They  were  said  to  have  actual 
knowledge  of  events  before  they  occurred,  or  at 
least  at  the  moment  of  happening.  As  proof  of 
this  a  story  Is  told  to  the  effect  that  when  the 
Peruvian  government,  fearing  their  Influence  and 
their  power,  decided  In  secret  session  In  Lima  to 
exile  them  for  political  reasons,  the  swiftest  of 
messengers  was  sent  at  once  to  Cuzco,  four  hun- 
dred miles  away,  to  apprise  them  of  the  fact. 
When  the  messenger  reached  Cuzco  he  found  all 
the  priests  ready  with  their  baggage  packed,  stand- 
ing before  the  gates  of  their  monasteries.  Their 
marvelous  system  had  not  failed  them.  They  had 
learned  of  the  decision  of  the  secret  session  in 
Lima  as  soon  as  It  had  been  made.  Their  own 
system  of  obtaining  information  had  brought  them 
the  news  before  the  fleetest  of  known  messengers 
had  been  able  to  do  so. 

Guayaquil  was  for  Pere  LeGrls  the  beginning 
of  a  trip  of  a  year's  duration  —  a  journey  of 
recreation  In  the  hope  of  regaining  his  failing 
health.  He  was  going  to  Quito.  We  were  sorry 
to  lose  him.  In  his  dignified  way  he  possessed  a 
keen  sense  of  humor  and  kept  us  much  Interested 
and  amused  by  tales  of  his  experiences.  One  story 
he  told  was  simply  delicious.     A  young  woman. 


16  Below  the  Equator 

observing  that  he  traveled  without  a  trunk,  carry- 
ing only  a  hand  bag,  approached  him.  She  had 
excess  baggage  to  the  amount  of  a  thousand 
pounds.  She  pleaded  with  him  to  relieve  her  of 
one  trunk  so  that  she  might  get  through  the  cus- 
toms house  without  having  to  pay.  Pere  LeGris' 
humorous  description  of  his  consternation  at  the 
thought  of  claiming  as  his  own  a  trunk  filled  with 
a  woman's  dainty  lingerie  while  fellow-priests 
looked  on  and  waited  for  him  during  its  inspec- 
tion, was  certainly  funny.  Needless  to  say,  he 
gently  but  firmly  refused  the  request  and  the  lady 
was  obliged  to  pay  the  awful  excess  exacted  on 
baggage  to  a  South  American  port. 

The  American  consul.  Dr.  Godding,  a  personal 
friend,  delighted  us  with  a  visit  here,  bringing  with 
him  large  baskets  of  delicious  and,  to  us,  strange 
fruit.  For  two  days  we  lay  in  port  enjoying  these 
delightful  specimens  and  basking  in  the  glow  of 
the  southern  sunshine.  We  now  realized  fully 
that  we  were  in  South  America.  Gorgeous  big 
macaws  with  brilliant  yellow  and  blue  plumage 
were  brought  aboard.  The  colors  of  the  smaller 
screeching  parrots  were  simply  exquisite.  Many 
vendors  came  also  with  tiger  skins  and  small  mar- 
mosets. 

We  found  no  mosquitoes  here  and  although  we 
knew  that  the  extreme  slenderness  and  delicacy 
of  this  deadly  insect  prevented  its  flying  over  three 


Beginning  the  Journey 


17 


hundred  yards  we  still  felt  safer  to  sleep  under 
netting  the  two  nights  we  were  in  port.  The  pecu- 
liarity of  this  mosquito,  the  stegomya^  is  that  only 
the  female  bites  and  gives  the  yellow  fever  germ. 
The  Ecuadorians  are  immensely  wealthy.  Many 
of  them  are  charming  people  and  well  educated. 
But  at  present  all  hate  Americans.  Their  potent 
reason  for  disliking  us  is  the  railroad  built  to 
Quito.  The  Americans  cheated  the  Ecuadorians 
shamefully  in  the  contract  and  feeling  still  runs 
high  about  it.  The  present  consul,  Dr.  Godding, 
with  his  charming  Uruguayan  wife,  have  lived  in 
this  unhealthy  spot  for  many  years.  With  all 
hygienic  laws  respected  and  the  house  screened 
they  fear  nothing.  They  keep  In  their  home  a 
wonderful  little  bird  called  cacigiia.  It  knows  its 
pet  name  of  Chico-Chico.  It  flies  about  loose  in 
the  house  and  kills  every  fly  and  mosquito  it  sees. 


CHAPTER  III 

THE  GUANO  ISLANDS 

WE  HAD  been  warned  that  in  going  to  South 
America  we  were  taking  our  lives  in  our 
own  hands.  Everyone  knows  that  in  spite  of  her 
wonderful  attractions  there  is  much  to  be  desired 
in  her  laws  relating  to  hygiene.  Many  of  the  dis- 
eases which  we  would  encounter,  such  as  yellow 
fever  and  bubonic  plague,  we  should  have  to  risk, 
as  there  is  no  kn.own  preventive.  We  should  take 
all  possible  precautions  toward  evading  mosqui- 
toes and  fleas,  but  there  is  no  inoculation  which 
could  save  us  from  them.  Smallpox  and  typhoid 
could  be  prevented,  or  at  least  the  system  may  be 
rendered  immune  by  inoculation  to  all  save  a  very 
light  attack.  Therefore,  preparatory  to  this  joy- 
ous expedition,  we  spent  some  time  at  home  with 
a  feeling  of  decided  malaise,  due  to  three  inocu- 
lations of  the  typhoid  serum,  and  I  was  certainly 
laid  low  by  the  smallpox  inoculation,  vaccination. 
Such  an  arm  as  I  carried  for  six  weeks  after 
will  not  soon  be  forgotten,  and  the  scar  I  shall 
carry  to  my  grave.  Disagreeable  as  all  these 
precautions  may  be,  however,  they  are  absolutely 

18 


The  Guano  Islands  19 

necessary  and  minimize  the  danger  of  travel  con- 
siderably. It  is  only  the  foolish  person  who 
disregards  them  and  fatality  often  follows  In  the 
wake  of  those  who  do. 

After  leaving  the  Isthmus  we  made  it  an  abso- 
lute rule  not  to  touch  uncooked  vegetables,  or  eat 
a  piece  of  fruit  which  could  not  be  peeled.  Of 
course,  we  missed  eating  their  delicious  vegetables 
such  as  lettuce,  radishes  and  celery,  and  fruit  like 
strawberries.  But  in  spite  of  our  precautions  in 
regard  to  inoculation  for  typhoid  we  were  afraid 
of  these  death-dealing,  though  delectable  foods. 
As  in  China,  their  greatest  fertilizer  here  Is  human 
excrement,  and  the  germs  bred  are  not  only  those 
of  typhoid  but  those  of  cholera  and  enteric  troubles 
of  all  kinds.  .This  knowledge  gave  us  courage  to 
refuse  all  such  food.  Indeed,  the  character  of  this 
fertilizer  disenchants  one  from  wishing  to  sample 
any  of  their  green  vegetables. 

No  traveler  touches  the  drinking  water  here. 
The  natives  seem  to  be  Immune.  We  regard  the 
bottle  of  water  at  fifty  cents  a  pint  as  a  necessary 
extravagance,  and  the  fact  that  we  were  paying 
so  exorbitant  a  price  for  it  had  the  usual  effect.  It 
made  us  thirstier  than  ever!  Between  us  we  fre- 
quently drank  six  or  seven  dollars'  worth  of  water 
a  day.  This  seems  terrific,  but  all  the  way  down 
the  coast  of  South  America  until  we  reached  Val- 
paraiso the  only  water  we  could  get  on  the  boats 


20  Below  the  Equator 

was  Waukesha,  White  Rock,  or  Poland  at  a  dollar 
a  quart.  It  is  easy  to  figure,  therefore,  how  two 
thirsty  people  can  -consume  this  amount.  Of 
course,  those  who  feel  that  they  cannot  afford  this 
much  money  for  drinking  water  carry  a  small 
alcohol  stove  and  boil  it.  But  this  is  a  nuisance.  It 
means  a  lot  of  extra  baggage  and  every  ounce  of 
baggage  counts.  After  we  got  into  the  country, 
however,  we  found  distilled  water  at  a  reasonable 
price  in  the  large  cities  and  there  we  drank  to  our 
hearts'  content. 

A  fine  and  famous  water  throughout  Peru  is  the 
Jesu  water  from  a  spring  of  that  name  near  Are- 
quipa.  It  is  a  delicious  beverage,  slightly  charged 
with  gas,  and  except  for  the  awful  price  we  had  to 
pay  for  it  we  enjoyed  it  thoroughly.  This  water 
is  a  great  favorite  in  Peru,  but  I  must  confess  that 
the  sight  of  the  name  on  the  first  bottle  we  drank 
gave  us  both  a  distinct  shock. 

Petty  thieving  is  one  of  the  annoyances  on  ship- 
board along  this  southern  coast.  Personally  we 
lost  nothing,  but  several  of  our  neighbors  com- 
plained. As  we  steamed  out  of  the  Guayas  River 
a  man  who  had  been  in  confinement  for  two  days 
for  stealing  broke  his  arrest  and  jumped  over- 
board. He  had  fully  a  mile  to  swim  to  shore 
and  the  current  was  terribly  swift.  But  the 
steamer  could  not  waste  time  by  stopping.  So  if 
he  ever  reached  shore  I  presume  he  considered 


The  Guano  Islands  21 

himself  immune  and  started  in  on  his  little  game 
again. 

No  vessel  is  permitted  to  pass  out  of  this  river 
at  night,  as  the  channel  is  dangerous.  But  we 
sailed  out  early  in  the  morning  to  find  ourselves  in 
the  ocean  again.  From  Guayaquil  we  moved 
toward  Callao,  spending  the  next  eight  days  in 
making  that  port.  These  days  were  far  from 
uninteresting.  We  passed  many  islands,  one  of 
the  most  curious  of  which  is  called  Dead  Man's 
Island,  the  shape  of  which  is  that  of  a  man  lying 
flat  on  his  back,  his  face  upturned  to  the  heavens. 
Very  distinct  is  the  illusion.  The  features  were 
plainly  visible,  colossal,  and  the  sight  is  most  un- 
canny. 

Off  the  southern  coast  of  Ecuador  on  the 
island  of  Santa  Clara  is  LaAmortahada,  The 
Enshrouded  Woman ;  it  is  said  to  be  a  marvel  in  its 
exact  representation  of  its  name.  Once  seen,  the 
colossal  figure  of  the  mysterious  woman  is  never 
forgotten. 

The  constant  passing  of  pretty  islands,  the  load- 
ing and  unloading  at  the  various  ports,  the  strange 
cargoes,  the  curious  birds  and  fish  was  a  truly 
pleasurable  experience.  One  can  have  no  concep- 
tion of  the  number  and  variety  of  the  South 
American  birds  until  he  has  seen  them.  In  addi- 
tion to  the  huge  pelicans,  millions  of  "  guano  "  birds 
inhabit  the  islands  bearing  their  name,  and  blacken 


22  Below  the  Equator 

the  skies  when  they  fly.  The  snow-white  Guano 
Islands  hold  thousands  of  these  birds  and  often  in 
the  evening  about  dusk  we  would  steam  into  a  solid 
mass  of  the  feathered  creatures  resting  on  the 
water.  The  boat  would  be  obliged  to  plow  its  way 
right  through  them.  Thus  disturbed  they  would 
rise  quickly  and,  flapping  their  wings  in  the  water 
as  they  rose,  they  made  a  sound  like  heavy  rain. 

For  years  the  guano  trade  brought  in  millions 
of  dollars  to  the  southern  countries,  for  it  Is  known 
to  be  the  greatest  fertilizer  in  the  world.  The 
South  Americans  sold  it  to  the  European  govern- 
ments and  It  yielded  them  an  immense  income. 
This  trade,  however,  has  dropped  off  considerably 
as  the  guano  is  almost  exhausted  from  the  tre- 
mendous demands  for  it. 

The  Incas  themselves  were  not  Ignorant  of  the 
value  of  these  Guano  Islands.  They  carefully 
preserved  and  protected  them.  The  quantities  of 
birds  we  saw  were  equaled  If  not  surpassed  by 
the  number  of  fish — dolphins,  porpoises,  sharks, 
whales,  sting  rays,  and  shoals  of  smaller  ones.  The 
ocean  Is  alive  with  them.  They  say  that  every  bird 
on  the  coast  eats  about  six  pounds  of  fish  a  day. 
We  could  well  believe  It  and  still  know  that  they 
never  lack  for  food.  We  frequently  entered  a 
shoal  of  the  smaller  fish  which  would  be  miles  In 
length.  The  fish  would  He  so  thick  that  one  could 
not  place  a  knife  between  their  bodies,  and  the 


The  Guano  Islands  23 

captain  told  us  not  infrequently  they  clogged  the 
machinery  until  the  boat  was  obliged  to  lay  to 
until  It  could  be  cleaned.  And  all  the  time  the 
delightful  cold  air  of  the  Humboldt  current  was 
with  us,  so  that  we  endorsed  the  Spanish  exclama- 
tion we  were  constantly  hearing,  Que  brisa  tan 
hermoso  (What  a  refreshing  breeze). 

My  husband  and  I  both  speak  German  and 
French,  but  we  figured  to  really  enjoy  South 
America  we  should  know  Spanish  before  leaving 
Chicago.  We  looked  about  for  the  best  way  of 
getting  a  quick  knowledge  of  the  language.  For- 
tunately we  found  one  of  the  Gordon  Detwller 
schools  for  languages  in  Chicago.  We  took  the 
business  man's  course,  of  Prof.  Pedro  Cezon  and, 
though  we  had  only  time  for  the  half,  it  was 
amazing  what  he  taught  us.  Like  my  vaccination, 
it  took  well,  and,  sinking  deep,  was  firmly  Im- 
bedded so  that  with  the  phrase  books  and  grammar 
we  made  ourselves  understood  wherever  Spanish 
was  spoken. 


CHAPTER  IV 

SOME  PECULIAR  CUSTOMS 

THE  trade  along  the  western  coast  of  South 
America  is  enormous.  Some  of  the  richest 
cargoes  in  the  world  are  shipped  here.  It  is  along 
the  coast  of  Chile  that  the  nitrate  fields  are  most 
famous,  although  in  Peru  they  have  also  the 
salitre,  which  is  the  Spanish  name  for  it.  Rice, 
corn,  sugar,  and,  of  course,  gold  and  copper  are 
taken  on  many  of  the  boats,  and  the  bananas  alone 
would  pay  for  the  running  of  the  steamer.  Often 
we  carried  ninety  thousand  bunches,  and  just  here 
I  beg  to  interpolate  a  word  in  regard  to  the  peons 
who  transfer  these  cargoes.  I  can  honestly  testify 
that  they  are  not  afraid  of  work,  for  I  have  seen 
them  lie  right  down  and  go  to  sleep  beside  it. 

During  all  our  stay  in  South  America  I  found 
the  siesta  a  most  annoying  thing.  When  one  is 
rushed  to  catch  a  train  or  make  connections  with 
another  steamer  it  Is  then  that  he  realizes  to  the 
fullest  extent  that  he  is  in  the  land  of  mahana. 
The  peons  sleep  or  Idle  as  they  feel  Inclined.  As 
far  as  their  waiting  tasks  are  concerned  "  any  old 
time  will  do.'*    In  every  country  of  South  America 

24 


Some  Peculiar  Customs  25 

the  siesta  is  taken  daily.  From  eleven  until  three 
all  work  is  stopped  and  the  shops  are  closed. 

On  account  of  her  moist  climate  Ecuador  grows 
some  of  the  most  magnificent  trees  in  the  world. 
There  is  a  giant  one  called  the  ceiba,  a  cotton  tree, 
and  when  it  blooms  all  know  that  the  wet  season 
is  near.  The  cotton  produced  from  it  is  a  great 
staple,  beds,  pillows,  cushions,  etc.,  being  made 
from  it.  I  cannot  say  much  in  favor  of  the  pillows, 
however.  They  are  about  the  hardest  specimens 
that  I  have  ever  felt  beneath  my  head.  Yet  it  was 
the  only  kind  we  encountered  throughout  South 
America  until  we  reached  the  eastern  coast.  An- 
other tree  here,  known  as  the  balsa,  is  very  large 
and  twenty  times  as  light  as  cork.  Rafts  and  boats 
are  made  of  it  and  one  sees  great  numbers  of  them 
everywhere.  No  matter  how  frail  the  little  boat  is, 
one  feels  safe  in  it.  It  cannot  sink  even  in  the 
heaviest  sea. 

Late  in  the  afternoon,  while  looking  at  the  beau- 
tiful coast,  the  green  suddenly  disappeared  as  com- 
pletely as  if  a  section  had  been  cut  out  with  a  knife. 
Vegetation  and  fertility  were  gone  absolutely. 
From  here  on  down  the  Chilean  coast  all  was  bar- 
ren and  sterile.  The  soil  of  Peru  is  really  rich 
and  beautiful.  It  is  only  the  absence  of  rain  which 
makes  it  sterile.  Wherever  there  are  streams  and 
rivers  the  soil  becomes  green  and  fresh.  But  the 
rivers  are  far  apart.   On  all  this  long  strip  of  west- 


26  Below  the  Equator 

ern  coast  there  are  but  sixty-eight  rivers  fed  by  the 
Andes  and  emptying  into  the  Pacific. 

It  was  here  in  Payta  too  that  that  glorious 
flower,  the  mesem  bryanthemum,  grew  in  sucTi  pro- 
fusion. We  had  seen  it  in  its  magnificent  pink 
bloom  in  California,  but  we  never  failed  to  acclaim 
it  wherever  we  saw  it. 

Also  at  Payta  I  saw  for  the  first  time  a  man  in 
deep  mourning.  Even  his  hat,  a  straw  one,  was, 
absolutely  black,  and  the  women  were  all  en  Into. 
Afterward  it  seemed  to  us  that  the  whole  of  South 
America  was  en  Into,  These  southern  people  seem 
to  take  their  greatest  joy  in  mourning. .  Babies 
from  two  to  six  wear  it,  and  it  was  a  depressing 
sight.  I  met  a  charming  Chilean  couple,  Seiior 
and  Seiiora  Mardones,  and  the  former  told  me 
that  for  four  years  his  wife  had  worn  mourning 
for  her  mother.  For  two  years  she  had  never  left 
the  house  except  to  go  to  mass,  not  even  to  go  for 
a  drive.  She  was  a  brilliant  musician,  but  would 
not  touch  her  piano  until  the  four  years  had  ex- 
pired. She  was  about  to  take  up  her  music  again 
and  was  spending  a  good  deal  of  time  on  the  boat 
reading  it  over  and  tapping  her  fingers  on  a  chair. 
But  nothing  would  induce  her  to  try  the  piano  until 
the  fourth  anniversary  was  past.  She  was  a  refined 
and  traveled  woman,  but  when  I  expressed  surprise 
she  said,  '^  Bien,  Sehora,  que  quiere  Vd.  que  yo 
hag  a?  Es  la  costumhre  de  mi  pais ''  (Well,  madam, 


X 

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Photo    by    Carter    H.    Harrison 

Lake  of  the  Incas 
On  the  Trail sandean  Railway 


Photo    by    Carter    IT.    Harrison 

The  Author  on  the  Throne  of  the  Incas 


Some  Peculiar  Customs  27 

what  shall  I  do  ?  It  Is  the  custom  of  my  country) . 
Whereupon  I  remarked  to  myself  that  their  ways 
are  certainly  not  our  ways. 

As  I  have  already  said,  we  had  scarcely  left  the 
Isthmus  of  Panama  when  we  began  to  observe  the 
change  in  customs.  The  first  breakfast  at  seven, 
consisting  of  coffee  and  crackers,  was  the  desayuno, 
a  luncheon  served  in  the  forenoon  was  almuerzo. 
Here  also  we  began  to  observe  the  peculiarity  of 
the  Christian  name.  Bible  names  were  frequent 
and  many  of  the  children  bore  the  name  Jesus. 
We  would  frequently  hear  the  name  called  out  on 
shipboard,  and  when  we  reached  Lima,  In  many 
of  the  narrow  streets,  signs  bearing  biblical  names 
were  numerous.  One  barber  had  outside  his  door 
the  name  "Jesus,  the  Nazarene."  It  seemed  very 
blasphemous  to  us  but  was  really  not  so  to  them. 

The  days  on  the  Pacific  were  perfectly  wonder- 
ful, but  the  nights — .  Alas,  many  of  them  were 
filled  with  the  music  of  the  fog  horn  and  the  ever- 
present  thought  that  in  the  impenetrable  mist, 
running  as  near  the  shore  as  we  were,  the  sea  was 
dangerous.  Many  a  night  I  lay  awake,  watching 
the  captain  through  an  open  window,  muffled  to  the 
ears  in  his  overcoat,  studying  his  chart  and  all 
the  time  that  awful  siren  blowing  at  full  blast.  At 
last,  however,  we  sighted  Callao,  in  Peru,  and 
just  beyond  it  lay  beautiful  Lima,  city  of  churches, 
home  of  the  great  Santa  Rosa  I 


28  Below  the  Equator 

To  a  Catholic  what  thrills  the  thought  of  visit- 
ing Lima  brings !  I  was  all  eagerness  to  leave  the 
ship,  but  once  more,  alas !  it  was  to  be  some  days 
before  I  was  to  have  this  pleasure.  And  they 
were  anxious  days,  too,  for  a  terrifying  experience 
seemed  to  be  hovering  over  us.  After  we  sailed 
from  Guayaquil  three  suspects  were  discovered  on 
board  and  we  were  thought  to  be  carrying  both 
yellow  fever  and  bubonic  plague.  When  that  yel- 
low flag  went  up  over  our  ship  our  consternation 
was  indescribable.  Personally,  I  had  forty  flea 
bites  that  night  (it  Is  the  flea  which  carries  the 
germ  of  the  plague)  and  consequently  I  was  not 
easy  in  mind  until  the  time  for  the  developing  of 
the  disease  had  expired. 

We  waited  for  the  doctors  to  make  a  test  of 
the  suspects'  blood.  We  next  learned  that  the  re- 
port of  the  presence  on  board  of  the  plague, 
although  It  had  been  carefull  concealed  from 
us,  had  been  wirelessed  in  to  Callao  and  the 
authorities  were  so  wrought  up  over  it  that  they 
would  not  permit  us  to  land.  Our  yellow  flag 
waved  prettily  over  us.  But  It  was  a  signal  to  all 
who  saw  It  that  we  had  the  plague  on  board. 

A  distinguished  general  in  full  uniform  came 
out  In  a  little  yacht  with  some  f ellow-ofiicers,  took 
a  look  around  the  sea,  talked  through  a  megaphone 
and  then  went  away.  The  fog  settled  down  upon 
us,  but  at  least  we  were  in  port  and  I  hoped  to 


Some  Peculiar  Customs  29 

sleep  a  little  that  night.  Here  again  I  was  dis- 
appointed, however.  The  Peruvian  women  are 
very  pretty,  but,  like  most  of  the  sex,  they  like  to 
talk.  Two  who  were  located  near  my  cabin  had 
high,  shrill  voices,  and  they  proceeded  to  use  them 
most  of  the  night.  Also,  the  doctors  ran  back  and 
forth  talking  continuously,  and  there  seemed  to  be 
a  lot  of  red  tape,  but  the  passengers  learned  of  no 
new  developments.  The  next  day  the  captain  told 
us  that  the  whole  city  was  in  arms  at  the  thought 
of  our  getting  on  land.  The  town  had  already  a 
good  deal  of  malaria  and  typhoid.  Evidently  they 
did  not  wish  to  add  anything  more.  One  could 
not  blame  them,  but  it  did  seem  to  us  that  nurses 
should  be  sent  to  attend  the  sick.  An  old 
Frenchman  said  to  me  in  the  morning:  "The 
natives  here  live  like  animals.  Life  is  held  lightly. 
If  a  man  is  stricken  with  some  dreadful  disease 
he  steals  off  in  a  corner,  covers  his  head  and  waits 
for  death.    Nobody  cares." 

They  tested  one  boy's  blood  (they  had  already 
given  him  the  bubonic  serum)  and  we  were  here  to 
await  developments.  It  was  very  monotonous. 
We  watched  seals  playing  near  us  and  studied  the 
small  boats  which  came  out  to  bring  us  food.  We 
were  interested  in  families  talking  to  their  friends 
who  could  not  come  aboard,  and  watched  them 
taking  off  numerous  little  kegs  of  gold.  We  were 
supposed  to  be  carrying  eight  hundred  and  fifty 


30  Below  the  Equator 

thousand  dollars  in  gold,  but  the  little  kegs  were 
so  numerous  that  there  seemed  to  be  much  more 
than  that.  They  we;*e  unwilling  to  tell  us  how 
much  there  really  was,  and  there  was  a  good  deal 
of  red  tape  about  its  delivery.  The  officers  on 
guard  were  well  armed.  The  captain  and  his 
officers  signed  books  and  all  bowed  and  scraped 
before  separating. 

Another  night  settled  down  on  shipboard,  but 
the  sunset  was  magnificent.  Clouds  wrapped  the 
mountains  and  lay  over  the  Island  of  Lazarus, 
where  the  detention  hospital  is,  and  they  became  a 
mass  of  color.  They  changed  from  crimson  to 
gold  and  spearlike  shafts  of  pale  yellow  shot  across 
the  crimson.  The  mountain  stood  dark  and  sharp 
against  the  clear  sky  and  the  view  was  superb.  The 
blue  ocean  beneath  us  lent  beauty  to  the  already 
lovely  scene.  It  was  glorious.  Y  los  reflejos  en  el 
agua  era  admirahles  (The  reflections  in  the  water 
were  perfect). 

On  the  third  morning  the  doctor  announced  to 
us  that  the  suspects  did  not  have  yellow  fever  — 
that  what  he  had  taken  for  the  black  vomit  was 
something  else.  We  were  told  that  we  might  leave 
the  ship  on  the  completion  of  the  third  day,  which 
would  be  about  five  o'clock  that  afternoon.  In  the 
meantime  one  of  the  suspects  (the  plague  patient) 
had  been  brought  up  to  the  best  position  on  deck, 
said  position  being  immediately  between  our  cabin 


Some  Peculiar  Customs  31 

and  the  captain's  quarters.  The  young  man  was 
in  a  screen  cage,  but  his  attendant  went  in  and  out 
frequently,  and  if  there  was  danger  of  contagion 
surely  we  who  slept  only  about  six  feet  away  ran 
that  danger.  But  In  spite  of  our  fears  we  found 
that  we  were  quite  human  after  all.  We  often 
went  and  spoke  to  the  boy  (he  was  only  twenty) 
and  did  what  we  could  to  help  him.  He  began 
to  Improve.  We  were  permitted  to  leave  the  ship 
but  were  never  afterward  able  to  learn  the  fate  of 
the  boy. 


CHAPTER  V 

THE  STORY  OF  PERU 

THE  world's  records  contain  few  more  fairy- 
like narratives  than  the  well-attested  story 
of  the  early  civilization  of  Peru.  In  many  of  its 
aspects  this  civilization  was  equal  to  any  that  the 
world  has  ever  known.  The  history  of  the  Incas, 
those  children  of  the  sun  who  migrated  from  the 
north  to  the  interior  islands  and  country  and  estab- 
lished Cuzco  as  the  center,  the  capital  of  a  great 
empire,  is  little  short  of  marvelous.  There  had 
always  been  a  marked  contrast  between  them  and 
the  surrounding  tribes,  their  civilization  being 
more  sound  and  humane.  Its  keynote  was  intelli- 
gent socialism.  The  citizens  supplied  the  needs  of 
the  aged  and  infirm.  They  cared  for  the  widow 
and  the  orphan  and  the  soldier  in  active  service. 
In  their  enlightened  society,  poverty  was  unknown. 
They  were  splendid  agriculturists  and  shepherds. 
Their  high  mountains  were  cultivated  to  the  snow 
line.  They  had  aqueducts,  bridges,  and  good  roads 
connected  with  the  sea.  Irrigation  on  thoroughly 
sound  lines  was  practiced  and  they  tamed  the  wild 
animals,  such  as  the  llamas,  alpacas,  etc.,  until  they 

32^ 


The  Story  of  Peru  33 

were  suited  to  domestic  use.  Truly  the  Incas  were 
a  great  people,  different  from  the  squalid  Indians 
around  them.  Yet  this  splendid  dominion  fell  a 
prey  to  the  Spanish  adventurer,  Francisco  Pizarro, 
who,  though  able  and  daring  and  resourceful,  was 
cruel  and  treacherous.  Pizarro  arrived  in  Peru 
at  the  moment  when  the  old  Inca's  two  sons, 
Atahualpa  and  Huascar,  were  fighting  for  the 
division  of  their  father's  property,  which  had  been 
left  to  them  jointly.  Pizarro,  by  treachery  to  the 
victor,  took  advantage  of  the  situation  and  con- 
quered Peru. 

Nearly  everyone  knows  of  this  adventure  of 
Pizarro.  It  was  in  1524.  Hearing  rumors  that 
the  country  In  the  south  was  marvelously  rich  in 
gold,  he  made  his  first  expedition  to  Peru.  He 
landed  at  Tumbez,  on  the  Gulf  of  Guayaquil, 
where  he  found  a  busy  city.  Convinced  by  this  of 
the  wealth  of  the  country,  he  decided  that  he 
would  return  to  Spain  and  get  permission  to  make 
his  conquests.  In  his  adventure  he  took  Diego 
Almagro  and  a  priest  Hernando  de  Luque,  and  in 
1 53 1  started  back  to  Tumbez.  He  went  on  down 
the  coast  and  founded  a  city,  Plura.  While  trying 
to  get  reinforcements  to  make  his  invasion  he 
learned  that  Atahualpa  and  Huascar,  two  Inca 
princes,  were  fighting.  Pizarro  had  only  two  hun- 
dred men.  Imagine  his  bold  daring  to  attempt  the 
conquest  of  a  great  country  with  so  few.     How- 


34  Below  the  Equator 

ever,  sixty-seven  of  these  were  cavalrymen,  and 
horses  had  never  been  seen  in  this  country  before. 
Therefore  they  struck  terror  to  the  stoutest  hearts. 
Before  starting  on  his  expedition  across  the 
Andes,  an  almost  impossible  feat,  he  learned  that 
Atahualpa  had  conquered  his  brother.  At  various 
points  along  their  journey,  as  they  climbed  the 
twelve  thousand  feet  or  more  in  the  rarefied  air 
and  the  piercing  cold,  they  were  met  by  envoys 
from  the  successful  prince  bearing  beautiful  gifts 
and  royal  messages  of  welcome.  With  bold  faces 
the  army  of  two  hundred  entered  the  city  and  the 
very  next  day  Pizarro  sent  an  invitation  to  Ata- 
hualpa to  dine  with  him.  The  Inca  prince  came 
unarmed  and  in  royal  state  to  the  plaza.  Instead 
of  meeting  him  in  a  friendly  way,  Pizarro  de- 
manded that  he  swear  allegiance  to  Emperor 
Charles  and  become  a  Christian.  Atahualpa 
indignantly  rejected  this  request,  whereupon 
Pizarro,  incensed  at  his  refusal,  turned  his  cav- 
alry upon  the  unarmed  Indians.  There  fol- 
lowed a  scene  of  merciless  slaughter.  Atahualpa 
was  seized  and  made  prisoner.  Fifteen  million 
dollars  in  gold  were  demanded  as  his  ransom  and 
he  was  accused  of  many  crimes.  The  money  was 
actually  and  cheerfully  paid  by  the  Incas  for  the 
release  of  their  prince.  But  Pizarro,  after  taking 
the  gold,  refused  to  release  him.  He  asked 
Atahualpa  whether  he  would  prefer  to  be  burned 


The  Story  of  Peru  35 

alive  or  strangled.  He  chose  strangulation.  Thus 
was  he  put  to  death  after  the  most  shameless 
betrayal  of  the  obligations  of  hospitality.  The 
account  of  this  treachery  is  one  of  the  most  brutal 
records  in  all  history.  It  was  thus  that  the  con- 
quest of  Peru  was  accomplished.  After  the  death 
of  their  prince  the  Indians  made  little  resistance. 
Pizarro  then  went  on  down  the  coast  and  on  the 
banks  of  the  Rimac  founded  a  city  which  he  called 
the  City  of  the  Kings.    This  is  Lima. 

This  was  the  beginning  of  a  period  of  dissen- 
sions and  murders  which  lasted  for  many  years. 
For  nearly  three  centuries  Spanish  viceroys  ruled 
the  country  and  it  was  not  until  1 824,  at  Ayacucho, 
on  the  highlands  of  Peru,  that  the  last  buttle  of 
independence  was  fought.  Then  the  whole  of 
South  America  was  liberated  from  the  tyranny  of 
Spain  and  the  realms  of  the  Incas  were  free  to 
develop  a  new  civilization. 

Although  in  the  history  of  Peru  the  figure  of 
Pizarro  stands  out  more  prominently  than  that 
of  any  other  man,  his  intimate  friend,  Almagro, 
must  not  be  forgotten.  He  acted  as  a  foil  for  the 
scheming  Pizarro.  Almagro  kept  all  his  pledges. 
Pizarro  was  notorious  for  breaking  his.  Pizarro 
grew  to  hate  his  former  friend  and  when  at  last 
he  captured  him,  he  had  him  foully  dealt  with  and 
killed.  But  the  friends  of  Almagro  were  many. 
They  bided  their  time,  and  on  the  twenty-sixth  of 


36  Below  the  Equator 

June,  1 541,  when  Pizarro  was  at  the  height  of 
his  fame,  he  met  his  doom.  A  desperate  band  of 
conspirators  broke  into  his  palace  and  killed  him 
just  as  he  arose  from  the  dinner  table.  What 
was  once  said  of  Charles  i  may  also  be  said  of 
Pizarro,  namely,  that  nothing  in  his  life  so  be- 
came him  as  his  manner  of  leaving  it.  Receiving 
a  deadly  thrust  in  the  throat,  he  put  his  finger  in 
the  blood,  made  the  cross  on  the  floor,  sank  down 
upon  it  and  expired. 

With  all  his  faults  —  and  they  were  many  — 
Pizarro  was  a  great  man.  Yet,  with  hundreds  of 
statues  erected  everywhere  in  Peru,  there  is  not 
one  to  be  found  of  Pizarro.  Hero  worshipers, 
as  the  South  Americans  are,  they  ignore  him  com- 
pletely. Yet  what  would  South  America  be  save 
for  this  same  Pizarro? 


CHAPTER  VI 

THE  CITY  OF  THE  KINGS 

LIMA  at  last!  And  the  very  first  day  we 
were  there  we  attended  mass  In  the  famous 
old  cathedral.  Here  we  were  shown  the  skeleton 
of  Pizarro,  who  must  have  been  a  giant  from  the 
size  of  his  bones.  This  wonderful  cathedral  not 
only  equals  but  surpasses  all  descriptions  ever 
given  of  It  —  superb  In  Its  paintings,  carvings,  and 
altar  of  gold  leaf.  Lima  has  so  many  churches, 
and  one  Is  almost  bewildered  by  their  beauty  and 
sumptuousness.  Their  carvings  of  cedar,  mahog- 
any, and  rosewood,  the  rich  silver  and  gold  orna- 
ments, altar  and  tables  of  solid  silver,  leave  one 
almost  breathless  with  amazement. 

It  was  In  Lima  that  Santa  Rosa,  the  only  saint 
canonized  In  America,  was  born.  Her  remains 
repose  in  the  church  of  San  Domingo  under  the 
altar,  but  she  Is  represented  everywhere  In  almost 
every  church.  She  Is  really  the  patron  of  the 
whole  of  South  America,  the  West  Indies  and  the 
Philippines.  Besides  being  a  great  saint,  she  was 
a  very  beautiful  woman  and  enthusiasm  runs  high 
about  her  even  after  all  these  years.    Lima  has  a 

37 


38  Below  the  Equator 

hundred  and  seventy-five  thousand  inhabitants. 
She  calls  it  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand,  but 
this  includes  Callao  and  some  neighboring  towns. 
The  high  expectations  we  had  been  led  to  expect 
of  South  American  courtesy  and  hospitality  were 
realized  in  Lima.  The  American  minister,  Gov- 
ernor Benton  McMIllIn,  and  his  highly  educated 
and  beautiful  wife,  were  more  than  cordial.  Their 
courteous  attention  to  all  strangers  was  proverbial, 
but  they  certainly  overwhelmed  us  with  kindness. 
Through  them  we  met  some  of  the  most  distin- 
guished notables  of  the  Peruvian  government  and 
many  representatives  of  their  highest  society.  As 
an  Illustration  of  their  warm  welcome,  knowing 
that  we  were  interested  in  their  city.  Minister 
McMIllin  obtained  for  us  a  view  of  the  wonderful 
Prado  Museum.  Senor  Prado  himself  was  ill, 
and  his  entire  family  absent  from  the  city  at  their 
summer  home.  But  he  was  graclousness  Itself. 
Everything  In  this  beautiful  museum  (which  was 
also  his  home)  had  been  closed  for  the  summer, 
but  he  sent  up  his  servants  and  had  the  whole  place 
dusted  and  sunned.  A  member  of  his  family,  a 
brother,  came  up  for  the  occasion  of  our  visit  and 
we  spent  a  whole  beautiful  day  there.  They  served 
us  luncheon,  with  wine  and  champagne,  so  much 
trouble  were  they  willing  to  take  for  strangers 
who  were  sufficiently  Interested  to  come  and  see 
their  country.     It  was  wonderful,  we  thought. 


^ 


d,    m 


The  City  of  the  Kings  39 

Senor  Prado's  great  palace  is  not  visible  from 
the  street,  the  usual  high  wall  being  built  in  front 
of  the  house.  The  door  from  the  street  being 
closed,  we  walked  into  a  beautiful  patio  just  back 
of  which  his  truly  magnificent  house  presented 
itself.  The  house  and  museum  contain  some  forty- 
rooms.  He  has  reserved  a  dozen  or  more  for  his 
own  personal  use,  and  these  rooms  (which  we 
were  permitted  to  see  first)  were  furnished  in  the 
most  magnificent  way  conceivable.  Superb  carv- 
ings, wonderful  sets  of  buhl,  containing  enormous 
sideboards,  pianos,  chests  of  drawers  —  we  had 
never  even  imagined  anything  so  magnificent  in  a 
single  room.  His  private  collection  of  fans,  mar- 
velously  painted  and  hundreds  in  number,  was 
worth  a  fortune.  His  old  ivories  are  known  to 
be  very  rare,  his  rugs  and  paintings  invaluable. 
His  collection  of  old  silver  and  tapestry  is  truly 
marvelous.  Yet  all  this  was  not  what  we  had 
come  to  see.  We  hastened  through,  being  forced 
to  give  but  a  coup  d'oeil  to  these  rooms  in 
which  we  would  like  to  have  spent  days.  It 
was  the  museum  itself  which  was  the  objective 
point. 

Before  leaving  Senor  Prado's  private  apart- 
ments, however,  I  must  speak  of  the  lovely  little 
chapel  where,  when  the  family  are  at  home,  mass 
is  held  for  them  twice  a  week.  To  me  it  seemed 
wonderful  to  be  able  to  have  mass  said  in  one's 


40  Below  the  Equator 

own  private  home.  This  chapel,  though  small,  Is 
perfect  In  every  detail,  exquisite  In  its  fine  old 
embroidered  altar  cloths,  handsome  silver  and 
gold  ornaments,  and  beautiful  fresh  flowers. 

The  museum  surpasses  anything  of  Its  kind  that 
I  have  ever  seen.  Sefior  Prado's  wealth,  which  Is 
seemingly  Inexhaustible,  has  enabled  him  to  gather 
together  these  rare  and  wonderful  specimens.  It 
delighted  me  to*  learn  that  this  splendid  collection 
has  been  catalogued  and  rendered  so  interesting 
by  the  indefatigable  efforts  of  a  woman,  Senorlta 
Prado,  the  accomplished  sister  of  the  owner.  She 
was  possessed  of  a  brilliant  mind,  and  through 
her  mentality  and  zeal  many  things  were  discov- 
ered. For  instance,  she  came  across  some  curious 
Chinese  inscriptions  in  her  studies,  and  none  of 
the  Chinese  experts  could  Interpret  them  satisfac- 
torily. She  started  at  once  to  study  Chinese,  and 
after  many  years  spent  in  learning  the  language, 
gave  an  Interpretation  which  has  satisfied  the 
scientists.  Seiior  Prado  has  every  specimen  of 
the  Inca  and.  Indeed,  of  the  pre-Inca  work,  from 
the  finest  gold  and  silver  ornaments  to  the  oldest 
copper  pans.  Their  feather  ornaments,  em- 
broideries, weavings,  their  gorgeous  frescoed 
bird  and  animal  designs,  and  several  of  those 
frightful  reduced  heads,  which  are  so  hideous 
in  their  attraction,  are  included  in  this  collec- 
tion. 


The  City  of  the  Kings  41 

I  must  pause  here  to  say  a  word  about  these 
heads.  They  are,  I  think,  the  most  startling 
things  to  be  seen  anywhere  In  the  world.  The 
human  head  Is  reduced  from  Its  natural  size  and 
brought  down  to  about  four  inches.  The  Indians 
preceding  the  Incas  were  possessed  of  the  weird 
and  curious  knowledge  of  the  method  of  doing  thls" 
work.  The  human  likeness  in  these  miniature 
heads  Is  wonderfully  preserved  and  they  have  a 
most  weird  appearance.  The  object  of  this 
strange  craft  was  the  characteristic  desire  of  the 
Indian  to  carry  the  scalp  of  his  foe  at  his  belt,  just 
as  the  North  American  Indian  carried  his.  To 
show  his  warlike  prowess,  the  Indian  of  Peru 
strung  his  victims'  heads  together.  It  is  not  known 
now  by  what  process  this  reducing  was  accom- 
plished. The  severed  head  is  apparently  not  cut 
in  any  way  in  order  to  remove  the  bones,  yet  the 
bone  of  the  skull  has  entirely  disappeared.  Prob- 
ably some  acid  was  Injected  which  caused  the  bone 
to  dissolve,  and  In  this  way  reduced  the  head  to 
this  miniature  size.  One  head  that  we  saw  was 
that  of  a  woman  with  long  blond  hair,  proof  that 
the  preserved  heads  were  not  only  those  of  the 
native  Indians,  but  also  those  of  some  unfortunate 
whites.  To  me  this  fiendishly  ingenious  work  of 
the  savages  was  horribly  fascinating. 

As  has  already  been  said,  the  Prado  Museum 
is  considered  the  finest  in  the  world,  but  unless  one 


42  Below  the  Equator 

has  been  through  It  he  can  have  no  conception  of 
the  rare  and  wonderful  treasures  hidden  therein. 
Neither  is  it  possible  to  describe  them  adequately 
in  a  book  of  this  character. 


CHAPTER  VII 

IMPRESSIONS  OF  LIMA 

THE  University  of  San  Marcos  is  a  beautiful 
building,  founded  in  155 1,  one  hundred  years 
before  Harvard  received  its  charter.  The  Peru- 
vians are  very  proud  of  this  university,  and  it 
covers  all  branches  of  learning. 

The  Hall  of  the  Inquisition  is  one  of  the  great- 
est sights  of  Lima.  The  famous  ceiling  is  a  work 
of  art.  It  is  of  dark  red  cedar,  richly  carved, 
and  its  work  is  worthy  of  the  best  days  of  Spain. 
It  is  one  of  the  few  relics  of  antiquity  still  in  per- 
fect condition.  It  is,  indeed,  a  joy  to  see,  and  we 
all  gladly  lay  flat  on  pur  backs  upon  a  sofa  to 
gaze  upward  and  enjoy  the  picture  of  the  skill  of 
those  wonderful  artists,  long  since  dead  and  gone. 

For  three  centuries  the  Holy  Oflice  of  the  In- 
quisition held  its  seat  here  in  Lima.  Many  tales 
by  partisan  writers  are  told  of  the  wickedness 
enacted  by  it,  but  this  is  a  point  which  has  been 
long  and  often  disputed.  It  was  unquestionably 
a  great  power  in  the  Spanish  government.  Its 
rules  were  rigid  and  its  men  fearless  in  enforcing 
them.    Those  days  bred  recklessness  in  the  hearts 

43 


44  Below  the  Equator 

of  men  and  It  was  only  by  stern  control  that  the 
Catholic  Church  was  able  to  hold  her  own  in  the 
presence  of  men  who  were  little  short  of  barba- 
rians. The  Hall  of  the  Inquisition  was  the  court 
of  decision,  and  though  there  may  have  been  times 
when  injustice  was  committed,  and  even  cruelty, 
yet  on  the  whole  the  Inquisition  did  much  to 
uphold  the  law  and  thereby  help  the  state. 

There  are  many  fine  old  mansions  in  Lima  which 
are  preserved  intact.  One  which  is  particularly 
noticeable  has  a  richly  decorated  balcony,  a  gem 
of  the  domestic  architecture  of  the  seventeenth 
century,  and  it  is  astonishing  that  In  spite  of  earth- 
quakes and  fires  and  the  many  other  evils  which 
have  been  visited  upon  Lima  It  has  remained  so 
perfect.  The  city  contains  also  a  very  fine  zoolog- 
ical garden,  and  we  certainly  were  fortunate  in  our 
choice  of  a  time  to  visit  it.  A  few  minutes  after 
we  had  been  there  one  of  the  lions  got  loose,  ter- 
rified everybody,  and  did  considerable  damage  to 
the  garden.  The  plazas  in  Lima  are  many  and 
charming;  the  streets  are  narrow  and  quaint; 
the  pavements  In  the  shopping  district  are  laid 
in  mosaics  and  are  most  attractive;  the  stores 
are  rich  and  fine.  A  glance  from  the  open  door- 
ways of  the  busy  streets  usually  gives  one  a  glimpse 
of  a  paved  court,  sometimes  with  plants,  flowers, 
small  trees,  and  often  a  fountain.  Around  this 
court  are  the  main  rooms  of  the  dwelling. 


Impressions  of  Lima  45 

The  fruit  sellers,  who  carry  their  baskets  on 
long  poles,  are  interesting  and  picturesque,  and 
the  milkmaids,  perched  high  on  mules  or  horses, 
and  carrying  great  cans,  are  a  most  novel  sight. 
The  policemen  are  forever  blowing  their  whistles. 
Their  signals  seem  incessant  and  worrying.  Sell- 
ers of  lottery  tickets  abound  and  are  most  annoy- 
ing, and  one  sees  soldiers,  newsboys,  Cholbs,  and 
lovely  seiioritas,  the  latter  wrapped  in  their  man- 
tillas of  lace,  on  the  busy  streets.  Even  the  little 
girls  wear  these  mantillas,  and  the  baby  faces  of 
four  and  six  certainly  look  adorable  in  this  coquet- 
tish headdress,  which  is  most  becoming  to  young 
and  old. 

The  women  of  Lima  all  go  to  mass  every 
morning.  The  streets  are  filled  with  these  devo- 
tees, all  wearing  the  mantilla  over  the  head. 
After  the  service  they  do  their  shopping.  I 
created  quite  a  sensation  on  my  first  appearance 
at  the  cathedral,  because  I  was  wearing  a  chic 
French  hat!  I  could  not  understand  the  audible 
flutter  which  passed  over  the  congregation,  but 
when  It  was  explained  to  me  I  quickly  removed 
my  hat  and  replaced  it  with  a  blue  motor  veil. 
This  was  even  worse !  The  brilliant  color  of  the 
latter  caused  more  excitement  than  the  hat.  Need- 
less to  say,  the  next  day  I,  too,  donned  the  man- 
tilla. 

It  was  in  Lima  that  we  were  introduced  for  the 


46  Below  the  Equator 

first  time  to  a  first-class  South  American  hotel. 
It  had  no  private  baths,  and  only  two  or  three  of 
any  kind  for  the  whole  house.  This  in  itself  was 
bad  enough,  but  worse  was  yet  to  come.  In  case 
one  wished  a  bath  before  retiring,  one  was  com- 
pelled to  pass,  en  negligee  and  carrying  one's  own 
bath  towels,  through  a  brilliantly  lighted  drawing- 
room  filled  with  charmingly  dressed  women  and 
men  in  evening  clothes!  It  was  a  trifle  discon- 
certing. The  assembled  multitude  did  not  hesitate 
to  stare.  Still,  it  was  the  custom,  and  the  farther 
we  went  the  worse  it  got.  In  time,  however,  we 
became  hardened  and  what  natural  modesty  we 
took  with  us  when  we  started  seemed  to  have  dis- 
appeared. This  bath-room  arrangement,  by  which 
one  can  reach  the  bath-room  only  by  going  through 
the  drawing-room,  is  a  feature  of  most  of  the 
private  residences  as  well  as  the  hotels. 

Life  in  Lima  must  be  one  perpetual  joy.  The 
people  are  refined,  cultured,  and  traveled.  They 
form  a  society  which  has  a  peculiar  charm. 
Many  of  their  homes  are  palaces.  A  glimpse  at 
some  of  them  impressed  us  with  the  realization 
that  they  could  not  be  other  than  a  cultured  people, 
for  a  man's  home  is  indicative  of  his  character. 

Many  gente  decente  ride  in  splendid  equipages 
through  the  streets  of  Lima,  and  here  are  found 
many  beautiful  women;  but,  beautiful  as  these 
women  undoubtedly  are  from  a  North  American 


Impressions  of  Lima  47 

standpoint,  the  slight  down  which  many  carry  on 
the  upper  lip  mars  their  faces.  However,  their 
lovely  eyes,  their  wonderful  skin,  and  graceful 
carriage  of  the  head  make  them  fascinating  and 
attractive.  The  men  are  handsome  and  extremely 
courteous;  in  fact,  courtesy  and  extraordinary 
politeness  characterize  the  whole  of  South 
America. 

It  never  rains  in  Lima,  yet  one*s  clothes  are 
always  damp.  One  never  has  a  fire,  yet  one  is 
always  cold  and  wishing  for  one.  I  could  well 
understand  the  Incas'  worship  of  the  sun  while  in 
this  country.  During  my  six  weeks  in  Peru  the 
sun  rarely  shone  all  day.  The  fogs,  of  course, 
are  responsible  for  this  atmospheric  condition. 
But  despite  her  earthquakes,  despite  her  damp  and 
murky  air,  which  often  depresses  the  tourist,  who 
has  expected  to  find  here  the  brightest  of  sunshine, 
this  charming  City  of  the  Kings  is  fascinating  to 
the  highest  degree.  It  still  retains  the  old  Span- 
ish air  flavored  with  that  romance  which  all 
Spanish  cities  retain.  The  people  of  Lima  enjoy 
their  life  in  their  own  way,  and  Its  antique  charm, 
together  with  the  enjoyment  of  the  modern,  every- 
day pleasures  of  life,  creates  in  the  traveler  the 
desire  to  stay  with  them. 


CHAPTER  VIII 

THE    PERU    OF   TODAY 

LIMA  was  especially  interesting  to  us,  as  in- 
4  deed  it  must  be  to  all  North  Americans, 
because  it  was  the  seat  of  Spanish  government 
for  nearly  three  hundred  years.  From  1533, 
when  Pizarro  overpowered  it,  it  remained  the 
Spanish  capital  of  South  America  until  1825.  The 
Peruvians  are  a  proud  people,  and,  although  their 
hot  climate  militates  against  their  energy,  there 
is  every  evidence  that  they  are  energetic  and  up-to- 
date.  Peru  was  the  last  country  in  South  America 
to  become  a  republic,  but  they  seem  never  to  have 
regretted  the  step,  and  though  they  are  still  prone 
to  revolutions,  usually  they  govern  themselves 
pretty  well.  In  fact,  they  claim  that  their  internal 
wars  are  constantly  stirring  them  up  to  better 
deeds,  as  each  dissenting  party  endeavors  to  prove 
itself  better  than  the  one  it  opposes. 

They  are  a  brave  lot  of  people  and  once  believ- 
ing that  they  are  right  they  are  hard  to  intimidate. 
As  an  instance  of  this,  a  few  years  ago  President 
Le  Guia  found  himself  in  the  midst  of  a  hot 
quarrel.     One  afternoon  he  was  seized  by  his 

48 


The  Peru  of  Teday  49 

enemies,  taken  from  his  office,  and  placed  with  his 
back  against  the  statue  of  the  Liberator,  Bolivar. 
A  pistol  was  placed  at  his  head  and  he  was  ordered 
to  sign  a  certain  paper.  He  believed  himself  to 
be  facing  certain  death.  There  seemed  no  way  in 
which  he  could  be  saved.  The  howling  mob  sur- 
rounded him,  but  he  refused  to  sign  the  paper.  He 
said  he  would  rather  die  than  be  a  traitor  to  his 
country.  Fortunately  for  him,  at  this  moment  a 
squad  of  soldiers  came  riding  by  and,  seeing  the 
trouble  in  the  street,  broke  through  and  rescued 
him. 

The  story  of  Peru  reads  like  a  fable.  Anti- 
quarians declare  that  the  first  occupants  of  the 
country  were  a  blond  people.  This  was,  of  course, 
before  the  time  of  the  Incas.  They  claim  that 
both  the  Chinese  and  the  Buddhists  had  a  hand 
in  the  making  of  the  country  in  the  early  days. 
This  is  an  open  question,  but  ruins  of  beautiful 
temples,  houses,  and  entire  cities  have  been  un- 
earthed showing  that  there  was  a  prehistoric  race 
which  had  attained  a  high  degree  of  civilization. 
In  their  burial  grounds,  gold  and  silver  ornaments 
and  vessels  of  rare  carving  go  to  prove  that  there 
is  foundation  for  this  belief.  They  had,  evidently, 
wonderful  skill  in  the  manufacture  of  practical 
things.  They  used  cotton  and  twine  and  they 
wove  cloth.  These  mute  witnesses  certainly  de- 
note the  Intelligence  and  thrift  of  the  people  who 


50  Below  the  Equator 

lived  long  before  the  time  of  the  Incas.  We  all 
remember  Plato's  description  of  the  fabled  conti- 
nent of  Atlantis.  Can  it  be  that  a  ridge  of  land 
once  made  it  possible  to  travel  across  to  South 
America? 

Speculate  as  one  may,  there  is  no  question  that 
a  cultivated  and  highly  intelligent  people  occupied 
Peru  in  prehistoric  times,  and  they  accomplished 
many  things.  Miles  of  beautiful  roads  were  laid 
through  the  mountains,  and  the  mountains  them- 
selves were  terraced  to  the  very  top.  Ditches  and 
canals  were  dug  to  irrigate  the  land,  all  done  in 
such  a  thorough  way  that  engineers  of  the  present 
day  cannot  improve  upon  them.  A  wonderful 
suspension  bridge  built  by  the  Incas  of  Peru  still 
exists.  As  a  fofl  to  all  this  splendor  came  Pizarro ; 
but,  robber  and  thief  though  he  was,  he  equaled  in 
courage  and  bravery  any  of  the  men  he  treated  so 
cruelly. 

In  1820,  when  Bolivar  sent  out  his  lieutenant, 
General  San  Martin,  with  a  small  army  of  five 
thousand  men,  the  Spanish  domination  was  threat- 
ened. For  two  years  there  was  constant  fighting. 
But  at  the  end  of  this  time  that  splendid  young 
officer  succeeded  in  wresting  Peru  from  the  Spanish 
crown  forever.  Since  then  she  has  been  independ- 
ent. Out  of  gratitude  the  Peruvians  made  General 
Bolivar  president,  but  after  a  time  they  tired  of 
a  president  who  was  never  in  their  own  country 


The  Peru  of  Today  51 

(he  was  also  president  of  Bolivia,  which  country 
was  named  for  him),  and,  becoming  discon- 
tented among  themselves,  a  revolution  broke  out 
which  resulted  in  the  defeat  of  Bolivar's  rule  in 
Peru. 

They  made  a  quiet  little  soldier  named  Ramon 
Castilla  president  in  1845.  ^^  had  had  much  to 
do  with  the  war  of  independence,  but  was  always 
on  the  side  of  good  government.  He  was  the  man 
who  brought  over  Chinese  coolies  to  work  the 
fields,  and  also,  unfortunately  for  his  country,  he 
brought  over  seventy  Basque  peasants  from  Spain. 
Some  of  these  latter  were  killed  in  a  row  and 
Spain  demanded  an  apology  for  the  loss  of  her 
peasants  and  several  million  dollars  in  exchange 
for  their  lives.  This  Peru  refused,  and  Spain 
began  war.  But  when  her  ships  attempted  to  land, 
the  sea  was  so  rough  that  she  had  to  abandon  hos- 
tilities. However,  despite  this  fortunate  ending 
to  the  war,  Peru's  troubles  had  but  begun.  Once 
she  owned  hundreds  of  miles  along  the  Pacific 
coast.  But  the  Republic  of  Chile  was  crowding 
her  hard,  realizing  that  the  nitrate  fields  along 
the  coast  were  invaluable.  Peru  had  already  made 
a  secret  alliance  with  Bolivia,  and  therefore  when 
Chile  offered  to  arbitrate  In  regard  to  the  coast 
line,  ignoring  Bolivia,  Peru,  because  of  her  secret 
alliance  with  the  latter  country,  could  not  accept 
the  terms. 


52  Below  the  Equator 

The  Chilean  navy  was  much  more  powerful 
than  that  of  Peru,  and  as  Chile  was  in  command 
of  the  sea  she  had  every  advantage.  Antofagasta 
was  chosen  as  the  principal  point  from  which  to 
light.  Ten  thousand  men  were  landed  there,  and 
in  spite  of  the  brave  front  which  the  Peruvians 
put  up,  the  Chilean  army  reached  the  heart  of  the 
nitrate  country  at  a  little  town  called  Tacna.  The 
Peruvians  were  in  bad  luck,  for  just  at  this  time, 
when  they  needed  all  their  forces  to  concentrate, 
another  of  their  frequent  revolutions  broke  out  in 
Lima,  and,  although  they  recognized  that  their 
own  country  was  at  the  mercy  of  Chile,  like  a 
pack  of  untrained  children  they  stopped  to  fight 
among  themselves  in  the  interior.  The  United 
States,  trying  to  be  a  peacemaker,  offered  to  act 
as  mediator.  Peru  refused,  saying  that  she  could 
care  for  herself.  Alas !  her  pride  laid  her  low. 
The  Chileans  were  successful  and  took  posses- 
sion of  Lima.  For  five  years  their  flag  waved 
over  the  capital.  Five  thousand  Peruvians  were 
killed  and  as  many  taken  prisoners  in  the  constant 
battles.  At  the  end  of  that  time,  which  was  in 
1886,  the  Chileans  withdrew  from  Lima,  ratifying 
a  treaty  of  peace  which  had  been  made  three  years 
before.  This  treaty  provided  that  revenue  from 
the  fertilizer  gathered  on  the  Guano  Islands 
should  be  kept  by  Peru,  but  that  Chile  should 
keep  the  provinces  of  Tacna  and  Arica  for  a 


Photo    by    Carter    IT.    Harrison 

Cathkdral,   Lima,    Peru 


San  Marcos  University,  Lima,  Peru 


Photo    by    Carter    H.    Harrison 

Old  Spanish  Church,  Pisco,  Peru 


Photo  by   E.    M.    Newman 

CoNVKNT  OF  San  Francisco,  Lima,  Pkru 


The  Peru  of  Today  53 

period  of  ten  years,  at  the  end  of  which  time 
a  popular  vote  should  be  taken  by  the  people  as 
to  whether  they  would  cling  to  the  one  country 
or  the  other.  The  losing  country  would  take  ten 
millions  of  dollars  from  the  other.  But  the  two 
countries  have  never  been  able  to  agree  upon 
terms.  Chile  still  keeps  the  nitrate  beds  and  Peru 
still  tries  to  recover  them. 

I  asked  a  Peruvian  on  board  our  vessel  whether 
they  ever  expected  to  regain  these  two  beautiful 
towns.  His  answer  was,  "Only  at  the  point  of 
the  sword." 

Most  of  the  architecture  in  South  America  was 
a  distinct  disappointment  to  us,  although  there 
were  many  beautiful  buildings  and  their  churches 
(the  old  ones)  are  of  incomparable  beauty.  As 
a  rule,  the  modern  house  was  not  really  attractive. 
They  are  rather  incongruous  and  heavy  in  style. 
The  interiors  are  charming,  and  exquisite  taste 
seems  to  have  been  shown  there.  But  the  outside 
as  a  rule  is  unattractive.  There  were  exceptions, 
of  course. 

The  cathedral  in  Lima,  however,  is  beyond  crit- 
icism. It  is  the  most  beautiful  and  the  most  won- 
derful thing  of  its  kind  in  all  South  America.  Of 
all  the  pictures  we  had  conjured  of  it,  of  all  the 
dreams  we  had  had  of  it,  the  sight  of  it  exceeded 
in  beauty  our  highest  expectations.  The  chancel 
and  altar  are  very  handsome,  with  heavily  carved 


54  Below  the  Equator 

chairs  and  magnificent  old  paintings.  Everything 
about  the  cathedral  Is  very  ornate,  but  Its  impres- 
slveness  cannot  be  denied,  and  the  building  Is  so 
large  that  four  ordinary  churches  In  Chicago  — 
such  as  the  Holy  Name  Cathedral — could  be  set 
down  in  It  and  still  leave  room. 

All  the.  churches  of  Lima  are  rich  In  beauty; 
practically  all  the  old  ones  can  be  classed  as  a 
delight  to  the  eye.  Strange  that  a  people  who 
must  have  been  Imbued  with  the  sight  of  these 
beautiful  spires  pointing  to  the  sky,  or  these  inte- 
rior pillars  which  held  graceful  arches  with  a 
lightness  which  Is  Inspiring,  should  have  lent  them- 
selves to  some  of  the  uncouth  modern  facades  for 
their  own  homes.  But,  after  all,  perhaps,  contrast 
is  the  nicest  thing  "in  life.  The  beautiful  would 
not  be  so  startling  were  it  not  for  the  accentuation 
of  the  ugly. 

In  the  church  of  San  Augustin  in  Lima  there 
IS  a  famous  statue  of  Death,  carved  by  a  monk. 
It  is  a  wonderful  thing,  though  terrible  in  the 
illusion  it  gives  of  being  the  skeleton  of  a  man. 
It  is  regarded  as  a  precious  relic  and  one  has  to 
have  a  card  of  admission  from  the  superior  before 
he  may  go  behind  the  altar  to  see  it. 

Great  preparations  were  going  on  at  the  time 
we  were  there,  in  January,  for  the  three  hun- 
dredth celebration  of  the  birth  of  Santa  Rosa, 
though  the  anniversary  would  not  be  until  August. 


The  Peru  of  Today  55 

But  since  she  is  the  only  American  saint  ever 
canonized,  and  is  the  beloved  of  all  the  southern 
world,  the  preparations  even  at  that  early  date 
showed  the  magnificent  scale  upon  which  they 
intended  to  honor  this  great  saint.  We  truly 
regretted  that  we  could  not  remain  to  witness  the 
festivities.  The  following  October  we  received 
from  a  friend  newspapers  describing  fully  the 
superb  celebration,  and  ever  since  we  have  had  a 
new  Incentive  to  learn  to  read  Spanish  easily,  that 
we  might  more  thoroughly  enjoy  the  description 
of  the  splendor  and  gaiety  of  those  August  days 
in  Lima. 

Lima,  at  the  foot  of  the  sterile  mountain,  is 
irrigated  in  the  valleys  by  the  river  Rimac.  This 
is  the  greatest  river  on  all  the  dry  coast  of  the 
Pacific.  It  is  a  narrow  stream,  but  a  more  turbu- 
lent one  cannot  be  imagined.  In  its  swift  travel 
it  passes  some  of  the  most  romantic  and  beautiful 
scenery  in  the  world.  Its  usefulness  to  Lima 
because  of  its  powers  of  irrigation  cannot  be 
overestimated.  We  were  destined  to  follow  it 
more  than  once  in  its  zigzag  wanderings  through 
the  mountains.  Its  unmistakable  roar  greeted  us 
often,  echoing  and  reechoing  across  the  great 
cafions,  quehrados.  We  got  so  that  when  we  lost 
sight  of  it  for  a  few  moments  we  looked  anxiously 
for  it  to  reappear  and  greeted  it  as  an  old  friend. 
We  grew  to  love  its  dashing  white  cataracts,  its 


56  Below  the  Equator 

clear  limpid  water,  and  its  fine  markings  of  green 
on  either  side.  These,  too,  seemed  like  a  long 
river  stretching  through  the  sterile  mountains. 


CHAPTER  IX 

MATUCANA  AND   THE   VERRUGA 

WE  SAW  many  pretty  watering  places  and 
small  towns,  such  as  Chosica,  but  we 
stopped  for  several  days'  rest  at  Matucana,  about 
eight  thousand  feet  high,  in  the  heart  of  the 
Andes.  This  little  town  has  a  special  interest  on 
account  of  its  relics,  which  gave  rise  to  a  theory 
that  there  was  once  a  pigmy  city  here  and  that 
the  little  people  who  inhabited  it  were  expelled 
by  ruthless  invaders  and  compelled  to  flee  over 
the  mountains.  Fortifications,  houses,  and  sub-i 
terranean  chambers  still  exist.  The  small  size  of 
the  rooms,  the  doorways,  only  three  feet  high,  are 
taken  as  evidence  that  little  people  lived  here. 

Charming  as  this  mountain  spot  was,  however, 
I  could  not  enjoy  it.  It  is  in  this  region  that  the 
dreaded  verruga  rages.  This  disease,  peculiar 
to  these  mountain  people,  is  seldom,  if  ever,  cured, 
and  it  is  never  found  below  two  thousand  or  above 
eight  thousand  feet,  extending  only  about  twenty- 
seven  or  twenty-eight  miles  in  either  direction. 
The  disease  is  a  horrible  one  —  a  breaking-out 
of  hideous  bloody  warts,  thousands,  of  them,  so 

57 


58  Below  the  Equator 

small  that  it  takes  a  microscope  to  see  them, 
sometimes  under  the  skin.  They  are  caused  by 
the  bite  of  a  small  insect.  I  was  perpetually  on 
the  watch  for  that  insect — a  small  gnat  which 
flies  at  night.  True,  it  was  not  the  season  for  it, 
but  I  entertained  a  constant  fear  that  there  might 
be  a  repetition  of  the  episode  of  the  "  early  bird." 
I  had  no  desire  to  be  the  "worm." 

Verruga  is  worse  than  cholera  or  yellow  fever 
and  more  fatal  than  bubonic  plague.  It  is  con- 
fined to  this  small  Andean  zone  in  Peru  and  is  a 
disease  practically  unknown  to  the  medical  pro- 
fession in  other  parts  of  the  world.  There  is  a 
good  reason  why  this  is  so.  All  who  have  tried 
to  investigate  it  have  died  in  the  attempt  to  analyze 
it.  Between  Chosica  and  Matucana,  on  the  Oroya 
railroad.  Is  the  center  of  this  deadly  disease.  The 
people  of  Peru  think,  therefore,  that  some  poison- 
ous mineral  or  vegetable  must  cause  It,  for  it  Is 
never  known  to  break  out  in  any  other  part  of 
the  country.  And  no  matter  how  young  or  how 
strong  a  man  may  be,  when  he  passes  through  this 
zone  of  death  he  takes  a  chance.  People  have 
been  known  to  be  attacked  who  merely  went 
through  on  the  train  and  never  stopped  at  all, 
while  people  who  remained  a  week  or  more,  as 
we  did,  have  not  been  troubled.  The  natives  get 
it  just  as  frequently  as  the  whites,  but  they  claim 
to  know  of  an  herb  which  is  Its  only  cure.     In 


Matucana  and  the  Verruga 59 

ninety-nine  cases  out  of  a  hundred,  however,  it 
fails  in  its  curative  properties.  At  a  certain  point 
on  the  railroad  there  is  a  bridge  bearing  the  name 
Verrugas.  The  story  goes  that  the  construction 
of  this  bridge  occupied  one  year.  The  contractor 
employed  one  thousand  seven  hundred  and  twenty- 
six  people,  every  one  of  whom  had  verruga.  Hun- 
dreds of  them  died.  The  contractor  sent  to  New 
York  for  medical  experts.  Seven  came  down  to 
investigate  the  disease.  Six  of  them  died;  the 
seventh  was  convalescing  when  a  delirious  native 
stabbed  him,  killing  him  instantly.  This  is  an 
awful  tale.  Needless  to  say  that  I  had  practically 
not  heard  of  this  disease  when  I  stopped  at  Matu- 
cana. The  fleeting  thoughts  I  had  had  in  regard 
to  it  had  not  impressed  upon  me  the  fact  that  this 
heavenly  spot  was  its  center.  It  is  said  that  one 
who  has  it  and  recovers  never  has  a  second  attack, 
and  that  one's  best  chance  to  recover  is  to  stay 
right  here  in  this  zone.  A  fine  young  American 
physician  was  the  latest  victim.  He  came,  full  of 
hope,  with  the  ambition  to  make  an  investigation 
which  would  be  of  benefit  to  humanity  and  the 
medical  world.  But  he  took  the  disease  and  died. 
A  very  recent  death,  also,  was  that  of  the  super- 
intendent of  the  Cerro  de  Pasco  copper  mines. 
He  was  from  Lansing,  Michigan. 

Let  us  hope  that  in  spite  of  the  awful  record 
of  this  disease,  science  will  yet  conquer  it.     Like 


60  Below  the  Equator 

the  terrible  leprosy,  however,  there  seems  at  pres- 
ent to  be  no  cure.     Of  the  two  diseases,  verruga 
is  the  more  kindly.    Death  comes  quickly.    From 
the  time  it  is  contracted  the  patient  knows  that 
his  hours  will  be  few.     But  the  leper  knows  that 
years  may  elapse  before  the  end  comes.    Still,  he 
has  always  the  hope  that  before  it  does  come, 
science  may  discover  a  cure.     Thinking  of  the 
verruga  makes  me  remember  the  deadliness  of 
the  snake  bite  in  Brazil,  for  which  the  natives  have 
discovered  an  antidote  which  works  pretty  well. 
They  take  the  leaves  of  a  creeper  which  grows 
in  the  poison  districts  of  their  tropical  rivers, 
bruise  them  to  paste,  and  make  it  into  a  small 
cake  about  the  size  of  a  five-cent  piece.    When 
one  is  bitten  he  is  given  one  of  these  cakes  to  chew 
and  must  swallow  all  the  saliva.     This  seems  to 
produce  heavy  perspiration,  and  the  subject  usu- 
ally recovers.      But  the  herb   they  use   for  the 
verruga  victims  saves  only  about  one  in  a  hundred. 
In  spite  of  my  uneasiness,  however,  I  could  not 
but  be  conscious  of  the  beauties  about  me.    The 
town  is  charmingly  situated  at  the  foot  of  the 
Andes,  and  here  we  had  our  first  peek  at  the  serra- 
nos,  the  sturdy  mountaineers.    Here  also  we  saw 
the  llamas  for  the  first  time.  These  pretty  animals 
are  regal  and  proud  in  their  bearing.    They  step 
very  lightly  and  they  certainly  look  the  royal  part 
they  assume.    It  is  said  that  like  royalty  they  die- 


Matucana  and  the  Verruga  61 

tate.  For  example,  no  llama  will  carry  more  than 
a  hundred  pounds.  No  matter  how  craftily  his 
master  tries  to  deceive  him,  if  one  single  pound 
be  added  to  that  weight,  no  amount  of  persuasion 
or  beating  will  make  him  get  up. 

Though  we  saw  many  llamas  in  Matucana,  the 
greatest  numbers  are  seen  between  La  Paz  and 
Cuzco.  They  are  queer,  graceful  creatures,  pos- 
sessing the  legs  of  a  deer,  the  body  of  a  sheep, 
and  the  head  and  neck  of  a  camel.  They  are 
white,  brown,  black,  or  particolored;  their  wool 
is  long  and  thick,  and  they  have  big,  beautiful, 
wistful  eyes  which  look  at  you  inquiringly. 

Here,  too,  we  saw  for  the  first  time  in  the  open 
the  bird  of  the  Andes,  the  royal  condor,  swooping 
down  over  the  mountains. 

Of  course  the  whole  country  here  is  Catholic, 
but  the  native  Indian  managed  to  work  in  a  good 
deal  of  his  own  superstition.  The  cross  is  always 
to  be  seen  In  some  conspicuous  place,  and  at  Matu- 
cana there  are  several  shrines.  But  to  the  cross 
and  the  statue  of  Christ  the  Indian  has  added  the 
Inca  disk  of  the  sun,  in  bright  yellow.  Beside 
this  big  sun  face  is  the  profile  of  the  moon,  in 
vivid  blue,  and  there  are  bows  and  arrows,  and 
a  man's  hand,  beside  which  is  a  foaming  glass  of 
beer!  Crowning  it  all,  caught  in  the  floating  band 
of  a  lace  scarf,  is  a  crowing  rooster  I  Strange 
mixture  of  Christianity  and  paganism! 


62  Below  the  Equator 

We  crossed  the  Andes  six  times,  and  each  time 
it  was  but  to  discover  more  beauties.  From  the 
eight  thousand  feet  at  Matucana  to  the  twenty- 
four  thousand  feet  at  Aconagua,  the  glories  of  the 
scenery  are  superb.  From  Matucana  our  next 
destination  was  the  Cerro  de  Pasco  mines  — 
merely  for  the  sake  of  the  scenery,  may  I  add. 
These  mines  are  sixteen  thousand  feet  in  the  air, 
and  the  road  which  took  us  to  these  heights  is  a 
miracle  of  engineering.  Turning,  twisting,  run- 
ning through  the  tunnels,  mounting  steep  grades, 
one  is  lost  in  admiration  for  the  brain  of  the  man 
whose  conception  it  was  and  whose  ability  made 
it  possible  to  achieve  it,  as  well  as  for  the  stupen- 
dous endurance  of  the  builders.  Incidentally,  the 
man  who  conceived  and  carried  out  this  marvelous 
piece  of  work  in  Peru  belongs  to  us.  His  name 
was  Henry  Meiggs,  and  he  was  a  Californian. 
A  monument  to  his  genius  tops  a  glorious  moun- 
tain eighteen  thousand  feet  high.  The  story  of 
this  man's  life  is  most  spectacular  and  surely 
ought  to  be  an  incentive  to  the  man  who  is  down 
and  out.  For  he  went  wrong  completely  and  yet 
rose  above  all  his  past  transgressions  and  made 
good.  He  fled  from  California  a  ruined  man  and 
a  fugitive  debtor.  He  even  owed  his  laundress. 
But  he  must  have  had  a  conscience,  for  when  he 
made  a  fortune  he  paid  back  dollar  for  dollar, 
with  interest,   and  sent  the  poor  washerwoman 


Matucana  and  the  Verruga  63 

enough  gold  to  keep  her  In  affluence  through  life. 

In  South  America  he  found  his  fortune.  The 
building  of  Chile's  first  railroad  cleared  him  a 
million  dollars.  Another  in  Peru  doubled  this. 
Scheme  after  scheme,  each  more  gigantic  than  the 
last,  was  successfully  carried  out,  and  finally  the 
financial  world  became  interested  in  a  big  contract 
between  Meiggs  and  the  Peruvian  government. 
European  loans  were  effected  and  Meiggs  became 
the  most  influential  man  in  Peru.  His  must  have 
been  a  remarkable  personality.  His  genius  was 
unquestioned.  His  ability  and  dominant  will  car- 
ried everything  before  him.  One  of  his  peculiari- 
ties was  that  he  never  had  a  partner.  He  worked 
entirely  alone.  His  personality  was  attractive, 
and  no  matter  how  great  the  provocation  he  was 
always  master  of  himself.  Wherever  he  appeared, 
he  inspired  confidence.  In  spite  of  his  success,  in 
spite  of  his  having  made  good,  he  never  again 
visited  California.  His  trials  there  seemed  to 
have  given  him  a  hatred  for  the  place.  Knowing 
the  history  of  this  remarkable  man,  we  naturally 
took  a  keen  interest  in  his  railroad.  Without 
question  it  is  the  most  stupendous  thing  of  its 
kind  in  the  world. 

The  grandeur  of  the  varied  scenes  on  this  trip 
baffles  all  description.  Here  one  is  privileged  to 
see  the  titanic  forces  of  nature  cast  up  in  a  won- 
derful mass  of  mountains  and  magnificent  gorges. 


64  Below  the  Equator 

Through  sixty-eight  tunnels  we  traveled  in  one 
day.  In  one  place  the  course  of  a  turbulent  river 
had  been  turned  and  made  to  flow  through  a 
tunnel  because  the  engineer  needed  its  bed  for  his 
road  I  But  this  is  only  a  small  part  of  his  achieve- 
ment. Twisting,  corkscrewing  along  through 
these  mountains,  always  climbing  higher,  one 
often  sees  three  tracks  below  him,  and  no  matter 
to  what  heights  one  rises  he  seems  always  to  see 
more  glorious  ones  above. 

We  passed  the  terraced  gardens  of  the  Incas, 
the  andenes,  still  kept  in  splendid  cultivation  by 
their  descendants,  and  at  last  reached  the  snow 
line  and  the  glaciers.  The  barren  rock,  in  varied 
shades  of  yellow,  red,  and  green,  is  bewildering 
in  its  beauty;  and  everywhere  the  stately  llamas, 
with  their  proud  carriage  of  head  and  dainty  step, 
pass  to  and  fro.  The  Cholos  (Indians),  in  bril- 
liant ponchos  and  picturesque,  wide-brimmed  hats, 
add  to  the  fascination. 


CHAPTER  X 

SOROCHE 

AT  THE  headwaters  of  the  Amazon  —  an 
altitude  of  sixteen  thousand  feet  —  we  tried 
our  pulses.  Mine  was  eighty-two,  my  husband's 
seventy-six.  We  were  delighted.  The  altitude  had 
not  affected  us,  although  we  were  conscious  of  a 
slight  headache.  We  had  eaten  nothing,  having 
been  told  that  this  was  the  proper  way  to  take 
altitudes.  When  we  began  to  descend,  however 
(we  were  to  spend  the  night  in  Oroya,  at  thir- 
teen thousand  feet),  I  was  possessed  with  a  desire 
to  eat  a  piece  of  chocolate  I  had  brought  with 
me.  I  had  not  invested  in  the  Peruvian  chocolate 
because,  delicious  as  it  looked  —  well,  someone 
had  regaled  me  with  a  tale  to  the  effect  that  it  was 
mixed  with  blood  to  give  it  the  rich  color  it  pos- 
sesses. I  didn't  believe  a  word  of  it,  but — I  did 
not  want  the  chocolate !  Nice  Irishism  that,  but 
the  truth  I  As  a  general  thing,  chocolate  does 
not  agree  with  me,  anyway,  and  just  why  I 
wished  to  eat  it  on  this  particular  day  is  a  thing 
I  cannot  explain.  Perhaps  exuberance  of  animal 
spirits,  coupled  with  that  rare  atmosphere,  bred 

65 


66  Below  the  Equator 

in  me  a  courage  which  was  reckless.  Be  that  as 
it  may,  I  ate  it  and  drank  some  black  coffee.  In 
ten  minutes  I  was  really  ill.  By  the  time  we 
reached  Oroya  I  was  almost  blinded  by  headache. 
I  had  an  intense  nausea  which  was  not  active  and 
therefore  could  not  be  relieved.  My  husband  was 
not  feeling  very  fit,  either,  but  occupation  at  the 
moment  saved  him.  He  had  to  run  and  rescue 
our  hand  baggage  from  an  Indian  boy  who  per- 
sisted in  carrying  it  to  a  second-class  coach  bound 
for  still  higher  altitudes.  I  was  left  alone,  sur- 
rounded by  a  howling  mob  of  Indians,  all  talking 
Spanish  so  rapidly  that  I  could  not  understand  a 
word.  It  was  eight  in  the  evening  and  biting 
cold.  Suddenly  out  of  the  chaos  I  heard  my  name 
spoken  in  faultless  English.  I  looked  up  to  see 
l)efore  me  a  beautiful  woman.  Without  ceremony 
I  handed  her  my  bag  and  rug,  saying: 

"  Oh,  please  take  these.    I  am  going  to  faint." 
"Why,"  she  said  as  she  caught  me,  "what  an 
awful  case  of  soroche  you  have !  " 

In  my  dazed  condition  I  caught  the  word  about 
which  I  had  heard  so  much  —  soroche!  It  was 
like  a  dash  of  cold  water  in  my  face.  It  aroused 
me  at  once. 

^^ Soroche! ^^  I  exclaimed.    "Have  I  soroche? ^^ 
"About  the  worst  case  I  ever  saw,"  she  replied 
firmly. 

Under  the  words  I  rallied  beautifully!     Her 


Soroche  67 


buoyant  strength  appealed  to  me  as  nothing  else 
could  have  done  at  the  moment.  I  was  actually 
conscious  of  a  little  pride  in  my  own  achievement. 
I  had  soroche!  Smiling  weakly,  I  sat  down  at  her 
command.  /  did  not  faint.  After  a  few  moments 
I  asked  who  she  was  and  how  she  happened  to 
know  me.  I  then  learned  that  she  was  the  wife 
of  a  young  engineer,  Thomas  Lossing,  whom  I 
afterward  found  to  be  a  very  clever  and  brilliant 
personage,  and  that  our  kind  friend,  the  American 
minister.  Governor  Benton  McMillin,  had  tele- 
graphed her  to  meet  us.  He  explained  to  her 
that  in  spite  of  our  leaving  so  blithely  and  so  con- 
fidently for  the  high  spots  of  the  Andes  he  had 
had  some  qualms  as  to  our  feelings  when  we 
arrived  there ! 

When  I  had  recovered  a  bit  we  went  on  a  search 
for  my  companion.  At  last  we  located  him  and 
were  then  made  comfortable  for  the  night  in  the 
loveliest  of  cottages,  where  hot  water  was  plenti- 
ful and  soft  beds  made  us  forget  our  troubles. 
In  the  morning  we  both  felt  splendid,  which,  as 
I  learned  later,  was  considered  remarkable,  as 
soroche  usually  lingers  several  days.  As  to  the 
malady  itself,  I  cannot  describe  it.  It  is  peculiar 
unto  itself.  All  I  can  say  is  that  it  is  the  worst 
conceivable  case  of  seasickness  —  plus! 

In  Oroya  we  saw  the  Yauli  River,  one  of  the 
headwaters  of  the  Amazon.     It  is  as  yellow  as 


68  Below  the  Equator 

the  Tiber  and  as  turbulent  a  stream.  Above  the 
town,  perched  on  a  high  peak,  are  some  charming 
ruins  of  an  Inca  village.  Should  one  care  to  go 
across  to  the  Amazon  through  Peru,  he  would  be 
confronted  with  a  nearly  unbelievable  fact.  He 
would  have  to  cross  the  Montana,  an  almost  im- 
penetrable jungle,  and  it  takes  less  time,  actually, 
to  go  up  to  the  Isthmus,  on  to  New  York,  and 
thence  down  the  Atlantic  to  the  mouth  of  the 
Amazon  in  Brazil,  than  to  cross  Peru.  For 
example,  Iquitos,  a  town  second  in  importance 
only  to  Lima  in  its  big  shipping  interests,  lies  on 
the  Ucayali  —  really  the  Amazon  River  —  two  or 
three  hundred  miles  away  from  Oroya.  If  Oroya 
sends  anything  to  Iquitos  it  must  go  just  as  I  have 
described  —  up  to  the  Isthmus,  on  to  New  York, 
and  down  to  the  mouth  of  the  big  river  on  the 
Atlantic  ocean,  then  up  the  Amazon  to  the  Uca- 
yali, and  up  that  river  to  Iquitos.  And  it  does 
this  in  from  three  to  five  days  less  time  than  it 
could  be  taken  those  two  or  three  hundred  miles 
across  country  lying  between  the  two  cities.  Yet 
Peru  touches  Brazil!  Crossing  the  jungle  is  not 
only  next  to  impossible  but  it  is  fraught  with  great 
danger.  Here  are  horrible  reptiles,  and  poisonous 
insects,  and  the  shortest  possible  time  in  which  the 
trip  can  be  made  from  the  interior  of  Peru  is 
thirty-five  days. 

At  Chacatalpa,  about  twenty  miles  from  Oroya, 


Soroche  69 


there  lives  a  tribe  of  Indians,  or  natives,  who  are 
very  fair.  They  have  blue  eyes  and  red  hair,  and 
the  men  wear  long  beards.  They  resemble  the 
Caucasians.  But  we  did  not  have  time  to  visit 
them.  These  people  are  said  to  be  the  descendants 
of  some  pre-Inca  race. 

The  remainder  of  the  time  we  spent  in  Oroya 
we  had  no  discomfort  from  the  altitude.  Of 
course,  if  we  moved  too  rapidly  we  were  conscious 
that  our  hearts  were  beating  fast,  but  if  we  took 
things  slowly  we  were  not  in  the  least  uncomfort- 
able. A  very  good  rule  to  follow  is,  no  exercise 
after  ten  thousand  feet.  Adhering  to  this,  we 
got  along  very  well  and  enjoyed  the  few  hours  left 
to  us  in  this  little  mining  town.  The  Yauli  and 
the  Mantaro  rivers  come  together  near  this  place 
and  flow  out  toward  the  Amazon,  which  they  join. 
We  were  constantly  coming  across  these  rivers 
which  form  the  source  of  the  Amazon.  It  always 
gave  us  a  little  thrill  of  romance,  due  to  the  fact 
that  we  knew  we  should  not  be  able  on  this  trip 
to  see  the  real  great  river  itself. 

A  perfect  day  was  chosen  for  the  descent  of 
the  mountain.  Again  we  crossed  the  snow-clad 
heights,  looked  upon  their  glorious  glaciers,  saw 
the  terraced  fields,  the  prancing  llamas  careening 
away  from  the  train  in  their  excitement,  and  again 
looked  down  the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Rimac  on 
our  way  to  return  to  Lima,  where  we  wished  to 


70  Below  the  Equator 

spend  another  week.  That  week  accentuated  our 
love  for  this  quaint  old  Spanish  city.  Neither  of 
us  win  ever  be  content  until  we  may  return  there  to 
spend  an  entire  winter. 

One  amusing,  but  embarrassing,  Incident  oc- 
curred the  day  before  we  took  the  steamer.  No 
matter  how  bare  one's  bedroom  may  be  In  these 
South  American  hotels,  one  always  possesses  a 
sitting-room.  There  are  no  bedrooms  to  be  had 
without  the  latter  accompaniment.  This  Is  just 
as  positive  a  statement  as  that  there  Is  no  room 
to  be  had  with  a  bath  I  On  this  day  I  thought  that 
before  I  finished  my  packing  preparatory  to  taking 
our  ship  the  next  morning,  I  would  wash  my  hair. 
So  I  got  myself  comfortably  Into  a  wrapper,  with 
hair  streaming  down,  and  leaned  over  a  basin  of 
hot  water  to  begin  my  ablutions.  All  of  this  I 
was  doing  In  my  sitting-room;  as  It  was  larger, 
there  was  more  sunlight,  and  It  was  In  every  way 
more  convenient. 

Fortunately,  before  plunging  my  head  Into  the 
water  I  looked  around.  There,  seated  In  a  com- 
fortable armchair,  with  a  book  In  his  hand,  was 
probably  the  most  distinguished  senator  In  Peru, 
Senor  Zegarro !  This  man  was  very  close  to  the 
president,  was  consulted  on  all  Important  subjects, 
had  been  educated  at  one  of  the  large  universities 
in  the  United  States,  had  a  great  deal  to  do  with 
the  building  of  the  Panama  Canal  —  or,  rather, 


Soroche  71 


the  endeavor  of  De  Lesseps  to  build  it  —  and  was 
one  of  the  most  noted  engineers  in  South  America. 
He  was  a  man  of  some  fifty-odd  years,  and  his 
individuality  was  as  charming  as  his  record  and 
ability  were  great.  For  fully  a  minute  we  gazed 
upon  each  other  without  a  word.  I  was  horror- 
stricken,  and  he  certainly  looked  surprised.  How- 
ever, he  arose  to  shake  my  hand,  and  in  my  dazed 
condition  I  permitted  him  to  do  sol  It  took 
only  a  moment  for  me  to  recover  myself, 
though,  and,  asking  him  to  excuse  me,  I  retired 
into  the  next  room,  slipped  into  a  better  looking 
negligee,  twisted  my  hair  into  a  Psyche  knot,  and 
returned.  We  chatted  amicably  for  a  little  while, 
but  with  that  bowl  of  steaming  water  between  us 
I  could  not  act  as  though  nothing  had  happened. 
But  he  was  equal  to  the  occasion,  and  though  he 
had  seen  me  in  this  sorry  plight,  he  was  nice 
enough  to  pay  me  some  charming  compliments  on 
the  American  negligee  (my  second  one,  alas!); 
yet  I  still  shiver  at  the  recollection  of  that  en- 
counter. He  had  been  ushered  in  and  left  to  await 
me  there  by  a  stupid  chambermaid,  who,  by  the 
way,  in  Peru  is  always  a  he!  When  I  reprimanded 
him  for  having  brought  in  a  visitor  without  first 
asking  my  permission,  he  simply  grinned. 
There  is  a  Spanish  proverb  which  runs : 
En  cielo  de  sierra,  cojera  de  perro,  y 
Idgrimas  de  mujer,  no  hay  que  creer. 


72  Below  the  Equator 

Which  means :  "  Distrust  a  mountain  sky,  a  limp- 
ing dog,  and  a  woman's  tears."  I  should  like  to 
add  to  this,  "  and  a  he-chambermaid  I  " 

This  same  distinguished  Senator  Zegarro  came 
to  the  United  States  only  a  few  days  after  we  left 
Lima,  to  try  to  interest  some  of  our  millionaires 
(to  whom  my  husband  gave  him  letters  of  intro- 
duction) in  a  railroad  Peru  is  trying  to  build  from 
Payta  to  the  headwaters  of  the  Amazon.  It  will 
be  a  wonderful  thing  if  it  is  ever  accomplished, 
and  we  are  hoping  that  he  may  meet  with  success 
in  his  endeavors  in  the  United  States. 

I  must  not  forget  to  speak  of  the  flowers  of 
Peru,  which  are  singularly  beautiful.  The  bellis- 
sima  is  the  most  exquisite  pink  blossom  conceiv- 
able, and  a  dinner  table  decorated  with  it  in  the 
palace  of  Minister  McMillin  will  always  remain 
in  my  memory  as  the  most  delightful  bit  of 
color  I  ever  saw.  The  table  was  a  large  one  — 
places  for  twenty-four — and  the  slender  trailing 
branches  of  this  graceful  vine  covered  with  the 
tiny  pink  blossoms  twining  about  the  silver  and 
cut  glass  was  as  charming  a  sight  as  we  found  in 
Peru. 

But  beautiful  as  the  roses  and  most  of  the 

flowers  in  Peru  are,  we  were  told  never  to  smell 

them.    I  remember  being  presented  with  the  larg- 

^  est  and  most  gorgeous-colored  violets,  with  the 

words,  "Admire  all  you  will,  but  do  not  bring 


Soroche  73 


them  near  your  face."  The  reason  is  that  a  deadly 
bug  often  lurks  therein,  so  tiny  as  to  be  imper- 
ceptible, yet  once  taken  into  the  nostril  it  produces 
the  deadly  ute  —  an  incurable  cancer.  We  took 
no  chances  with  the  lovely  things  after  hearing 
this. 

The  public  museum,  too,  is  very  interesting,  but 
does  not  equal  in  any  way  the  superb  one  of 
Sefior  Prado.  It  contains  some  wonderful  old 
Gobelins,  and  besides  many  Inca  relics  it  possesses 
the  Chavin  Stone. 

The  day  had  come  when  we  had  to  leave  Lima, 
we  did  so  most  reluctantly.  We  shall  always 
carry  an  affection  for  it  In  our  hearts.  We  shall 
always  remember  the  pretty  answer  of  friends 
to  whom  in  parting  we  had  said:  ** Es  preciso  que 
nos  vayan/^  Their  reply  had  been :  "  Dios  guarde 
a  JJstedes  y  feliz  viaje/* 


CHAPTER  XI 

THE    SOUTHERN    CROSS 

WE  LEFT  Callao  on  the  Peruvian  steamer 
Montaro.  We  were  charmingly  fixed  and 
our  most  agreeable  French  Captain  Quesnal 
showed  us  many  things  of  interest  on  the  way 
to  Mollendo.  Once  or  twice  we  went  through 
miles  of  ocean,  clear  as  the  blue  waters,  only 
blood-red  instead  of  blue.  It  was  an  amazing 
sight.  The  captain  said  that  this  curious  phe- 
nomenon had  never  been  explained  satisfactorily 
to  him.  Scientists  claim  that  it  is  due  to  animal- 
cula. 

The  desert  coast  proved  interesting  because  of 
the  novelty  of  the  shipping.  We  certainly  felt 
sorry  for  the  poor  beasts,  the  sheep,  and  the  cows 
which  were  brought  aboard.  The  sheep  were 
hauled  up  by  halters  placed  about  their  necks, 
and  the  cows  usually  by  their  horns.  The  latter 
are  so  dazed  by  this  manner  of  bringing  them  on 
board  that  for  some  minutes  they  cannot  move. 
Our  kind-hearted  captain  told  us  that  he  did  not 
permit  this  way  of  landing  them  except  in  a  very 
rough  sea.    Usually  they  pass  large  bags  around 

74 


The  Southern  Cross  75 

the  middle  of  the  animal  under  the  stomach  and 
bring  them  up  that  way.  We  passed  several 
wrecked  steamers.  This  whole  western  coast 
abounds  in  rocks,  and,  running  as  close  as  the 
vessels  do  to  the  shore  line,  steamers  often  meet 
with  disaster. 

About  one  hundred  miles  south  of  Callao  we 
passed  the  Chincha  Islands,  where  we  saw  more 
birds  than  we  had  dreamed  there  were  in  the 
world.  These  are  the  greatest  guano  islands, 
barren  rocks,  but  yielding  tremendous  treasures. 
The  guano  deposits  in  the  beginning  were 
sometimes  two  hundred  feet  deep.  Today,  at 
a  distance  —  such  is  the  deposit — the  islands 
shine  snow-white  in  the  sunlight,  as  if  decked  in 
snow. 

The  Pacific  is  called  calm,  and  usually  It  Is,  but 
occasionally  it  stirred  up  a  pretty  fair  sea  and  then 
nearly  all  the  natives  were  ill.  They  eat  such  rich 
food,  and  so  often,  that  they  seldom  escape  sea- 
sickness. Indeed,  as  soon  as  the  women  come 
aboard  they  immediately  prepare  for  it.  The 
Christian  Science  idea  undoubtedly  works  well  in 
this  case.  They  believe  that  they  are  bound  to 
have  it,  consequently  one  never  escapes.  Sugges- 
tion with  them  works  perfectly.  As  my  husband 
and  I  were  not  affected,  they  looked  upon  us  with 
envy. 

We  were  nearing  port  one  night  when  we  got 


76  Below  the  Equator 

our  first  glimpse  of  the  Southern  Cross.  The  fogs 
had  prevented  us  from  seeing  it  earlier.  Never 
shall  I  forget  my  thrill  of  pleasure  when  I  looked 
upon  it.  Its  five  stars  (indeed,  its  seven  stars, 
because  the  two  pointers  are  more  glorious  even 
than  the  constellation  itself)  are  wonderful.  Once 
having  seen  this  brilliant  cluster  in  the  heavens, 
one  is  never  able  to  forget  it !  And  we  who  had 
been  watching  for  it  for  so  long  and  were  des- 
tined to  see  it  nightly  for  so  many  months  never 
tired  of  the  sight. 

On  board  were  many  Peruvian  army  officers 
and  their  families.  The  men  are  splendid,  hand- 
some in  their  uniforms,  and  quite  gorgeous  look- 
ing, and  always  unfailing  in  their  courteous  polite- 
ness. As  all  educated  people  in  South  America 
speak  French,  we  found  no  difficulty  whatever  in 
conversing.  The  women  are  pretty,  but  they  dress 
badly  and  never  take  any  exercise.  They  all  wear 
very  high  French  heels,  and  they  looked  at  me 
with  astonishment  not  unmixed  with  contempt  as 
I  took  my  daily  walk  on  shipboard. 

Mollendo,  Peru,  is  surely  no  place  for  a  nerv- 
ous woman  I  Here  we  had  the  interesting  but 
somewhat  blood-curdling  experience  of  being 
swung  out  in  a  chair  to  land  I  Many  of  the  femi- 
nine contingent  openly  expressed  a  preference  for 
death  Instead  of  the  attempt  to  land  In  this  fashion. 
[The  steamer  lay  half  a  mile  out.    The  surf  was 


Photo  by  E.   M.    Newman 

Harvard    Observatory,  ^Areouipa,    Peru 


Photo  by   E.    M.    Newman 

Cathedral,  Arequipa,  Peru 


The  Southern  Cross  77 


beating  high.  Yet  with  only  the  excitable  fletero 
in  his  small  craft  to  land  you,  it  was  really  the 
safer  way.  I  was  put  into  the  chair,  told  to  hold 
fast,  and  then  swung  out  into  space.  Fifty  feet 
below  was  the  swirling  water,  and  I  had  visions  of 
a  few  dozen  man-eating  sharks  waiting  in  it  for  a 
possible  -accident!  For  a  few  breathless  mon  ents 
my  feeliiigs  might  have  been  described  as  anxious. 
But  I  am  honor  bound  to  say  that  no  accident  has 
ever  been  here  recorded.  Swarthy  Indians  in  bril- 
liantly colored  ponchos  roamed  the  streets  of  this 
seaport. 

Mollendo  to  Arequipa !  It  was  a  wonderful 
ride,  most  of  which  lay  through  the  Desert  of 
Islay.  This  is  much  like  our  Grand  Canon  of 
the  Colorado  in  that  it  has  the  same  brilliant 
coloring  of  rock.  Reds,  greens,  blues,  and  yel- 
lows, a  conglomerate  mass  of  such  richness  that 
the  eye  would  become  surfeited  were  it  not  for 
the  gray-white  of  the  Crescent  Sand  Dunes.  These 
latter  are  mysterious  in  the  extreme,  and  a  greater 
contrast  to  the  riot  of  color  on  the  mountains 
could  scarcely  be  imagined.  Like  colossal  half 
moons  they  lie,  looking  just  as  though  they  were 
carved  out  of  stone.  There  are  thousands  of  them 
and  for  hours  we  traveled  through  them.  Smooth 
as  concrete,  they  move  across  the  desert  at  the 
rate  of  two  or  three  hundred  feet  a  year,  climb- 
ing high  mountains  in  their  silent  journey.    We 


78  Below  the  Equator 

saw  many  of  them  half  way  across  the  mountains. 
They  preserve  their  form.  They  are  just  as 
smooth  as  though  cast  In  a  mold.  Mysterious, 
remarkable  phenomena  when  one  remembers  that 
they  are  made  up  of  tiny  grains  of  sand. 

These  sand  hills,  called  medanos,  are  fifteen 
to  twenty  feet  high  and  a  hundred  feet  between 
their  horns.  They  drift  with  their  horns  always 
forward  under  a  steady  wind  which  always  blows 
from  the  south.  Their  shining  sand  looks  like 
watered  silk.  Sometimes  they  streak  across  the 
railroad  track  and  cause  a  lot  of  trouble.  Among 
all  the  wonders  of  South  America  It  seemed  to  me 
that  we  never  saw  a  greater  curiosity  than  these 
medanos.  In  their  slow  movement  and  the  pres- 
ervation of  their  dignity  and  form,  never  a  grain 
seems  to  be  spilled  from  the  perfect  mold  In  which 
they  are  cast.  They  reminded  us  of  some  royal 
procession  of  past  ages  caught  and  held  upon  this 
earth  for  us  of  modern  times  to  view. 

The  railroad,  climbing  between  cliffs  or  run- 
ning along  stretches  of  sand,  mounts  continually. 
Across  each  dreary  or  gay-colored  mountain  we 
climbed,  always  wondering  what  lay  beyond  the 
next.  Getting  to  the  top  of  the  range,  we  had 
our  first  view  of  PIchu-PIchu  and,  In  the  distance. 
El  MIstl.  This  last  Is  a  volcano  described  as 
extinct,  but  It  can  scarcely  be  called  that,  for  faint 
little  curls  of  smoke  sometimes  come  from  its 


The  Southern  Cross  79 

crater.  Its  other  neighbor  is  Chachanl.  Both 
these  mountains  are  more  than  nineteen  thousand 
feet  high.  But  beautiful  as  they  are,  there  are 
two  that  are  grander  still  —  Ampato  and  Coro- 
puna,  which  are  over  twenty-two  thousand  feet. 
There  are  but  two  mountains  In  South  America 
which  are  higher  —  Illlmani  in  Bolivia  and  Acon- 
cagua in  Chile. 

The  mountains  we  were  viewing  from  the  top 
of  the  range  belong  to  the  western  Cordillera, 
which  extends  all  the  way  north  to  Ecuador  and 
Colombia.  With  this  view  we  felt  that  we  were 
really  seeing  the  heart  of  the  Andes.  I  can  never 
adequately  explain  the  strange  beauty  of  this  land- 
scape. Sterile  and  barren  as  it  was,  with  the 
grimmest  of  walls  and  the  absence  of  all  life,  the 
beautiful  colors  blending  and  mixing  into  each 
other  gave  the  various  mountains  a  sublime  beauty 
of  their  ow^n.  The  wide  cafions,  where  nothing 
lives,  the  jagged  peaks  holding  in  their  hollow 
sides  only  the  sterile  rock  (nothing  green  is  seen 
here)  possessed  for  us  indescribable  charm.  It 
seemed  impossible  that  such  a  sterile  country  could 
be  so  imposing,  so  fascinating  in  its  barrenness. 
Nature,  however,  no  matter  how  she  shows  her- 
self, whether  in  the  green  dress  of  cultivation  or 
the  white  garments  of  the  distant  mountains,  in 
the  silver  stream  she  sends  to  the  ocean,  or  the 
barren  stretches  where  not  a  blade  of  grass  is  to 


80  Below  the  Equator 

be  seen,  is  ever  majestic,  impressive,  and  attrac- 
tive. 

The  monotony  of  the  desert  is  always  relieved 
by  its  graceful  shapes.  These  queer  shapes  are 
at  all  times  a  source  of  pleasure,  and  I  have  spent 
many  an  hour  studying  their  curious  forms.  Their 
steep  slopes  cut  by  irregular  canons  are  always 
mysterious.  The  lights  from  the  heavens  will 
change  their  color  in  a  moment;  the  absence  of 
clouds  will  turn  a  dark  hollow  into  a  witches' 
cauldron  seething  with  molten  gold.  The  con- 
stant curves  brought  new  views  of  magnificent 
gorges,  sometimes  a  thousand  feet  below;  and 
always  in  the  background  we  had  El  Misti  and 
her  wonderful  companion  beside  her.  When  one 
remembers  that  El  Misti  is  ^ve  thousand  feet 
higher  than  Pike's  Peak,  surpassing  in  height 
every  mountain  In  North  America  except  Mount 
McKinley,  one  gets  some  idea  of  the  heights  of 
the  Andes. 


CHAPTER  XII 

EL   MISTI   AND   QUINTA   BATES 

IN  LOVELY  Arequlpa,  at  the  foot  of  El  Mist!, 
one  should  linger  long.  This  is  especially 
true  if  one  is  fortunate  enough  to  visit  Quinta 
Bates,  the  lovely  home  of  an  American  woman 
there.  In  this  delightful  spot  at  the  foot  of  the 
Fujiyama  of  South  America  one  can  dream  only 
of  beautiful  things.  Arequipa,  with  its  sixty-two 
thousand  inhabitants,  boasts  a  wonderful  cathe- 
dral and  has  about  the  prettiest  plaza  that  we 
saw  anywhere.  The  cathedral  is  very  old  and 
has  been  restored,  but  good  taste  has  been 
shown  in  the  restoration.  Its  whole  appearance 
is  dignified  and  charming.  The  fagade  is  par- 
ticularly impressive  and  its  interior  speaks  softly 
of  the  Holy  of  Holies.  How  satisfying  when  the 
restoration  of  an  ancient  church  becomes  a  neces- 
sity to  see  it  done  with  taste  and  excellence !  How 
painful  to  have  it  offend  the  lover  of  the  beautiful 
and  the  artistic  I 

The  foreign  life  here  is  marked  and  attractive, 
and  the  plazas  are  the  places  to  see  it  at  its  best. 
The  South  Americans  are  especially  sensible  on 

81 


82  Below  the  Equator 

one  point;  their  parks  are  beautifully  kept  and 
in  constant  use  for  their  own  pleasure.  At  cer- 
tain hours  of  the  day  the  fashionable  element  will 
be  found  walking  here,  and  It  Is  then  that  one  sees 
the  lovely  sehoritas  and  the  gay  cahalleros  at  their 
best.  Because  of  the  very  clear  atmosphere  of 
this  region  at  certain  times  of  the  year,  Harvard 
University  maintains  an  observatory  here. 

Our  ride  to  the  observatory  we  shall  never 
forget.  In  a  motor,  through  narrow  streets  ten 
to  twelve  feet  wide,  over  the  roughest  of  cobble- 
stones, we  took  our  way.  One  man  ran  ahead  to 
clear  the  road  of  llamas,  braying  donkeys,  scream- 
ing children,  and  howling  dogs.  Men  and  women 
rushed  out  of  the  houses  and,  to  add  to  the  excite- 
ment, clamored  loudly,  whether  at  us  or  at  their 
own  motley  belongings  we  could  not  determine. 
However,  we  reached  the  observatory  in  safety 
and  were  treated  most  courteously.  They  showed 
us  their  wonderful  Instruments  and  we  examined 
many  plates  of  the  stars  which  they  had  made. 
They  do  this  work  from  June  to  December,  be- 
cause then  they  have  clear  skies.  They  told  us 
(what  we  had  already  noticed)  that  the  stars  are 
more  luminous  and  brilliant  in  South  America 
than  anywhere  else  in  the  world.  The  two  lower 
stars  of  the  Southern  Cross  point  directly  to  the 
South  Pole.  This  is  one  thing  which  makes  this 
constellation    so    Important    in    these    countries. 


El  Misti  and  Quinta  Bates  83 

There  is  no  polar  star  there  to  correspond  with 
our  north  star. 

We  saw  the  photograph  of  a  queer  open  space 
in  the  constellation  of  Orion,  which  was  beauti- 
fully made,  and  many  are  the  conjectures  in  regard 
to  it.  This  open  space  reveals  only  a  great  lumi- 
nosity, but  many  scientists  believe  it  to  be  a  new 
world  forming. 

Near  Arequipa  is  the  well-known  Jesu  spring, 
the  delicious  water  to  which  reference  has  already 
been  made  and  which  we  so  enjoyed  throughout 
Peru.  These  springs  have  a  great  reputation. 
The  water,  slightly  charged  with  carbonic  acid 
gas,  comes  up  in  a  clear,  effervescent  pool  from  a 
beautiful  gravel  floor  and  has  a  mildly  exhila- 
rating effect.  The  spring  is  In  the  midst  of  a 
volcanic  region  and  the  gravel  floor  is  most 
attractive. 

There  Is  a  fine  new  hospital  in  Arequipa,  said 
to  be  one  of  the  best  in  South  America.  The 
nurses  are  those  faithful,  wonderful  Sisters  of 
Charity,  so  beloved  by  the  Catholic  Church  and 
indeed  by  the  whole  world  for  their  devoted  work 
in  almost  every  city  on  the  globe.  Arequipa  has 
a  delightful  climate.  It  is  sheltered  from  the 
winds  by  the  mountains,  but  in  spite  of  the  fact 
that  it  was  summer,  we  women  were  obliged  to 
wear  furs  and  the  men  light  overcoats.  It  is  about 
seven  thousand  feet  above  sea  level  and  is  one  of 


84  Below  the  Equator 

the  loveliest  spots  we  found  anywhere.  The  Chile 
River,  which  curves  all  about  it,  furnishes  its 
irrigation  and  permits  the  inhabitants  to  have  the 
finest  gardens  of  beautiful  flowers. 

The  natives,  especially  the  Indians,  are  very 
devout  here.  Their  churches  are  always  well  filled 
and  a  striking  feature  is  the  open-air  shrine  where 
two  or  three  devotees  are  always  to  be  seen  kneel- 
ing in  prayer.  As  usual,  these  devotees  are 
women.  In  South  America,  as  in  most  places  on 
earth,  the  Lord  and  Master  of  Creation  seems, 
as  a  rule,  to  get  prayer  mainly  from  the  feminine 
persuasion.  With  all  woman's  reputation  for 
frivolity  and  lightness,  deep  down  in  her  heart 
she  is  made  of  the  stuff  of  martyrs.  Certainly  in 
the  love  of  doing  penance  she  outdoes  the  world. 
Perhaps  it  is  her  enthusiasm.  Perhaps  it  is  her 
deep  and  firm  conviction  that  the  world  is  better 
for  prayer.  Whatever  the  mystery  —  it  exists. 
Often  have  I  seen  the  so-called  butterflies  of 
fashion  turn  from  the  glare  of  the  ball-room  and 
the  whirlpool  of  society,  from  a  home  which  offers 
all  the  enticements  and  allurements  of  the  world, 
to  pass  their  time  in  a  nunnery.  Again,  the  most 
spoiled  and  most  frivolous  of  souls  will  clasp  to 
her  breast  a  crucifix  and  hold  it  despite  all  the 
temptations  or  pleasures  the  world  can  offer. 

We  spent  one  day  at  Tingo,  a  little  oasis  in  this 
desert  of  rock  and  mountain.    Here  are  glorious 


El  Misti  and  Quinta  Bates  85 

swimming  pools  In  the  open,  a  jewel  of  a  little 
lake  formed  by  the  river  and  the  beautiful  moun- 
tain streams,  alongside  of  which  Is  a  narrow  strip 
of  green  cultivation  beautiful  In  color.  The  large 
volume  of  water  which  pours  continually  through 
these  swimming  pools  Is  astonishing.  It  was  here 
that  I  learned  something  new,  though  the  knowl- 
edge is  old.  When  I  ordered  my  eggs  cooked 
three  minutes  I  received  some  further  information 
in  regard  to  altitude.  A  two-minute  egg  at  sea 
level  takes  six  minutes  to  cook  at  this  altitude. 


CHAPTER   XIII 

EARTHQUAKES   AND   INDIANS 

EARTHQUAKES  are  greatly  feared  in  Are- 
quipa,  therefore  the  houses  are  very  low. 
Also,  they  are  brilliant  in  color — pink,  blue,  or 
green.  The  streets  are  hard  cobblestone  and 
streams  of  water  drawn  from  the  river  cut  across 
them.  The  Indian  here  looks  something  like  the 
Arab  and  certainly  resembles  him  in  his  indif- 
ference to  cleanliness !  They  make  good  servants, 
but  they  are  the  despair  of  the  mistress  of  the 
house  in  regard  to  the  care,  or  the  lack  of  it,  which 
they  give  to  their  own  persons. 

No  city  in  the  world,  it  seems  to  me,  has  a  more 
picturesque  mountain  landscape.  There  are  beau- 
tiful churches,  lovely  plazas,  and  in  spite  of  its 
reputation  for  earthquakes  one  would  like  to 
linger  here  indefinitely.  Sunrise  and  sunset 
brought  constant  changes  to  El  Misti.  Often  we 
arose  before  dawn  to  watch  the  sun  rise  over  her 
and  just  as  often  sat  in  the  evening  studying  the 
glow  of  the  western  heavens,  marking  every  tint 
from  the  palest  yellow  to  the  deepest  carmine. 
The  line  of  perpetual  snow  on  the  top  made  it 

86 


Earthquakes  and  Indians  87 

peculiarly  susceptible  to  change  of  color  and  it 
was  fairy-like  to  see  those  white  masses  soften 
and  melt  into  shades  of  pink  and  gold.  The  cone 
of  El  Misti  is  the  subject  of  many  traditions.  They 
say  that  youths  and  maidens  were  once  flung  into 
the  crater  to  appease  the  Fire  Spirit,  and  one  nar- 
rator relates  that  the  only  way  to  appease  the  Fire 
God  was  for  the  Indians  to  gather  in  solemn  con- 
clave after  a  great  eruption  and  offer  sacrifices  of 
sheep,  fowl,  and  other  live  creatures.  The  In- 
dians offering  these  sacrifices  dressed  themselves 
in  red  for  the  occasion  and,  as  they  threw  these 
live  animals  into  the  crater,  begged  on  bended 
knee  that  they  might  be  spared  from  sacrificing 
their  youths  and  maidens.  The  wrathful  deity 
seems  to  have  been  appeased,  for  the  volcano  has 
remained  quiescent  for  many  a  year. 

Singular,  is  It  not,  that  the  legends  of  all  coun- 
tries resemble  one  another  so  much?  At  Kilauea, 
in  Hawaii,  an  exactly  similar  one  is  to  be  found. 
All  primitive  races  deal  a  great  deal  with  nature 
in  religion  and  see  spirits  in  all  her  remarkable 
objects.  At  Kilauea  we  had  seen  the  white 
shrouded  natives  creep  up  the  mountain  side  and 
throw  their  offerings  of  sheep  and  geese  Into  that 
vast  seething  cauldron  of  everlasting  fire,  begging 
their  Fire  Goddess  to  grant  them  their  particular 
request.  Sitting  in  the  brilliant  sunset  at  the  foot 
of  El  Misti,  watching  the  lurid  light  from  the 


88  Below  the  Equator 

heavens  fade  and  change  into  the  gray  night 
shadows,  we  thought  long  and  often  of  this 
mysterious  link  which  holds  the  primitive  man  in 
his  belief  the  world  over.  And  level-headed  as 
we  were,  we  almost  believed  we  saw,  on  the  misty 
mountain  top  beyond  the  snow  crown  of  El  Misti, 
the  old  Inca  in  military  array  standing  guard  on 
his  eternal  watch.  For  this  one  legend  of  the 
mountains  impressed  us  much. 

It  was  here  that  the  first  news  of  real  war 
reached  us.  Bad  for  us !  The  German  ambassa- 
dor at  Washington,  Count  von  Bernstorff,  had 
been  given  his  passports.  Our  own  country  was 
now  facing  war  in  earnest.  We  were  very  unhappy 
and  could  only  nurse  a  hope  that  things  were  not 
so  bad  as  they  were  reported. 

It  was  with  profound  regret  that  we  left  Are- 
quipa  and  the  glorious  guardian  of  her  beauty, 
El  Misti.  There  is  a  great  solemnity  and  never 
any  monotony  about  the  mountains.  They  rise 
up  from  their  emerald  woods  and  colored  rocks 
to  their  ermine  heights  of  snow  with  a  calm  dignity 
that  is  sublime.  Sometimes  in  the  gray  light  of 
a  cloudy  day  they  are  cold,  austere,  almost  tragic. 
Standing  in  kingly  majesty,  aloof,  forbidding,  they 
seem  to  say,  "Approach  me  at  your  peril!  Here 
in  the  distance  we  are  safe  from  the  prying  eyes 
of  your  world.  From  our  heights  we  scorn  the 
idle  gazers.    Keep  away  I  "    At  other  times,  when 


Earthquakes  and  Indians  89 

a  cloudless  blue  sky  arches  above  them  and  their 
glorious  crowns  of  snow  are  twinkling  like  jewels 
in  the  radiant  mid-day,  or  when  at  evening  they 
take  on  prismatic  tints  from  the  setting  sun  and 
seem  aflame  with  crimson,  copper,  and  gold  lights, 
they  soften  into  friendliness  and  beckon  us  closer. 
It  is  at  such  hours  as  these  that  the  mountain  lover, 
bold  and  confident,  feels  within  him  the  power  of 
the  soul  that  reaches  out  into  the  Infinite  and  is 
filled  with  a  supreme  love  for  these  vast  and  silent 
spaces.  Henceforth  the  eternal  frosts  upon  the 
pointed  peaks  or  the  clouds  that  veil  the  breast  of 
the  mountains  belong  to  him  to  love  and  adore. 
The  ice  plains  of  the  lofty  chains,  or  the  flowering 
meadows  of  the  vast  wilderness  are  both  alike  in 
beauty  to  him.  The  germ  is  fast  within  his  heart 
and  never  again  will  the  love  of  the  silent  places 
leave  him  I  At  sunset  El  Misti  always  changes  her 
bridal  garment  of  shimmering  white  to  one  of 
delicate  rose  color,  and  as  we  left  her  thus  it  was 
hard  to  decide  in  which  raiment  we  loved  her 
best. 

After  leaving  Arequipa  we  climbed  again  a 
rugged  region  of  hill  slopes.  In  the  distance  the 
gleaming  sands  of  the  desert  were  visible  and 
below  was  tjie  little  city  of  Yura,  where  another 
delicious  effervescent  table  water  is  to  be  had. 
We  saw  alpacas  and  llamas,  either  grazing  or  be- 
ing driven  by  the  Indians.     The  alpacas  are  not 


90  Below  the  Equator 

much  used  as  pack  animals  and  the  vicunas  never. 
The  latter  give  a  wonderful  wool  of  which  the 
finest  rugs  are  made.  The  wool  is  delicate,  silky, 
and  the  rugs  made  from  it  are  costly  and  beau- 
tiful. 

We  climbed  from  the  eight  thousand  feet  of 
Arequipa  to  fourteen  thousand  at  Juliaca,  passing 
at  Crucero  Alto  a  height  of  fifteen  thousand  to 
gain  our  destination.  On  the  train  many  people 
fainted,  even  the  mozo,  our  waiter,  bled  from 
both  nose  and  ears.  The  sight  was  not  particu- 
larly encouraging,  but  neither  of  us  was  affected 
in  the  least.  This  southern  altitude  plays  strange 
tricks.  Here  was  a  porter  habitually  making  the 
trip,  and  never  affected  before,  completely  over- 
come, while  we  who  were  unaccustomed  to  such 
dizzy  heights  were  not  at  all  disturbed. 

We  spent  the  night  in  Juliaca  in  a  room  with- 
out any  windows  and  marked  number  thirteen  I 
As  the  railroads  to  this  place  ran  but  two  trains 
a  week,  ours  was  pretty  well  crowded.  A  touring 
party  quite  filled  our  car.  Among  the  people  who 
lived  in  this  country  we  met  a  charming  English 
gentleman,  Mr.  Barker,  the  manager  of  a  mine 
eighteen  thousand  feet  In  the  air.  He  lived  there 
with  his  wife.  They  played  tennis  and  various 
other  strenuous  games  and  seemed  not  to  mind 
the  altitude  In  the  least.  He  left  our  train,  rode 
a  hundred  and  fifty  miles  on  horseback  to  reach 


Earthquakes  and  Indians  91 

his  home,  which  lay  just  back  of  the  snow-crowned 
El  Pato,  twenty-three  thousand  feet  high.  We 
saw  this  splendid  peak  from  the  train,  and  he 
thought  no  more  of  the  little  hundred  and  fifty- 
mile  ride  than  we  would  of  an  afternoon  walk! 
Early  in  the  morning  we  departed  from  Juliaca 
and  took  our  way  toward  Cuzco.  Although  the 
altitude  was  fourteen  thousand  feet  and  the  air 
very  thin  and  cold,  none  of  us  felt  the  slightest 
touch  of  soroche.  One  of  the  greatest  charms  of 
Peru  is  the  clearness  of  the  air.  When  there  is  no 
fog  or  mist  one  can  see  great  distances.  It  is 
because  of  the  clearness  of  the  atmosphere  that 
the  stars  are  so  wondrously  luminous  and  beauti- 
ful. On  the  day  that  we  traveled  to  Cuzco,  the 
air  was  as  clear  as  crystal  and  I  think  it  the  most 
beautiful  of  all  the  rides  we  took.  We  ran  through 
a  marvelously  cultivated  country.  The  ripe  fields 
swept  to  the  very  top  of  the  terraced  Andes 
and  were  rich  In  corn,  oats,  and  lima  beans. 
Streams  were  plentiful;  llamas,  alpacas,  horses, 
cows,  and  donkeys  abundant.  The  picturesque 
Indian,  wearing  his  poncho,  was  working  in  the 
fields,  and  whenever  we  saw  an  Indian  riding  it 
was  always  one  of  the  masculine  persuasion.  If 
ever  I  wished  for  equal  suffrage  I  wished  for  it 
here!  The  cultivated  valleys,  the  rivers  which 
rushed  down  the  mountain  sides  and  formed  the 
source  of  the  wonderful  Amazon,  the  indications 


92  Below  the  Equator 

on  all  sides  of  the  enormous  wealth  of  the  Peru- 
vians were  intensely  interesting.  But  the  Indians 
themselves  were  a  dirty  lot.  The  women  wore 
curious,  gaudy  hats  trimmed  with  gold  and  silver 
and  red  beading.  They  worked  in  the  fields  with 
their  babies  swung  across  their  backs.  All  were 
bare-footed. 

I  could  not  discern  in  these  Indians  any  traces 
of  their  ancestors,  the  resourceful  Incas.  They 
would  have  been  handsome  had  they  been  clean. 
When  we  were  not  close  enough  to  study  them 
they  were  quite  picturesque.  In  contrast  to  the 
broad-brimmed  felt  hats  of  the  women,  the  men 
wore  small,  stiff,  white  ones.  Under  the  hat  they 
wore  tight-fitting  red  caps  with  flaps  over  the  ears 
to  protect  them  and  the  cheeks  from  the  piercing 
cold.  The  women  wore  several  petticoats,  some- 
times a  dozen,  which  gave  them  a  bulky  look,  and 
they  were  of  every  color  of  the  rainbow.  Red, 
purple,  and  green  predominated.  All  the  natives 
carried  small  bags  of  coca  leaves,  the  indispensable 
stimulant  of  the  Indian  in  this  country.  Even  the 
children  are  seen  chewing  it.  It  induces  a  slight 
intoxication,  but  if  not  taken  in  too  large  quanti- 
ties produces  an  exhilaration  which  enhances  one's 
capacity  for  work.  Under  Its  Influence  a  man  has 
been  known  to  work  thirty  hours  without  feeling 
tired.  On  the  other  hand.  If  taken  too  freely,  it 
has  exactly  the  opposite  effect;  It  makes  one  so 


Earthquakes  and  Indians  93 

drowsy  that  he  cannot  keep  awake.  It  must  be 
chewed  with  the  ashes  of  the  corncob  or  else  it 
produces  madness.  In  the  end  it  shortens  life  and 
undoubtedly  it  is  the  use  of  the  coca  leaf  which 
gives  that  peculiarly  stupid  expression  which  one 
sees  here  on  the  faces  of  the  Indians. 

It  is  said  that  the  stupefying  effect  of  the  coca 
leaf  explains  the  ability  of  the  Incas  to  perform 
surgical  operations,  such  as  trepanning  and  ampu- 
tation. They  had  no  other  anaesthetic  as  far  as 
we  know.  The  patient  may  have  been  fed  on 
it  until  his  sensory  nerves  had  been  dead- 
ened, enabling  their  medical  men  to  perform 
delicate  operations  successfully.  It  was  undoubt- 
edly the  coca  leaf  that  gave  the  Indian  runner, 
the  fleet-footed  Chasqui,  strength  and  vitality  to 
bring  Huayna  Capac  his  fish  the  day  after  it  had 
been  caught  in  the  Pacific  three  hundred  miles 
away.  The  Indian  of  today  is  as  insistent  as  were 
his  ancestors  on  his  regular  supply  of  charchar 
and  oracuUico. 

Some  of  the  most  distinguished  Indians  we  met 
on  this  trip  were  called  alcaldes.  They  were  the 
village  authorities,  and  they  carried  a  badge  of 
oflice  in  the  shape  of  a  heavy  staff  at  the  end  of 
which  was  a  round  head,  or  a  spike,  of  solid  silver. 
The  man  who  is  seen  with  this  in  his  hand  exerts 
absolute  power  in  his  community.  When  he 
moves  through  the  crowd  everybody  makes  way 


94  Below  the  Equator 

for  him,  and  no  amount  of  money  can  buy  this 
badge  of  office  from  one  who  owns  it.  All  through 
the  beautiful  valley  of  the  Vilcamayo  River  we 
were  struck  by  the  wonderful  cultivation.  The 
irrigated  fields  with  their  beautiful  green  floors 
stretched  to  the  very  top  of  the  Andes.  The 
wider  and  more  level  stretches  of  the  meadows 
were  flourishing  with  abundant  crops  and  nestling 
below  the  hills  were  charming  little  villages 
breathing  of  industry.  The  contrast  of  the  dark 
rocks  and  the  cultivation  is  extremely  fascinating. 
Nowhere,  even  in  Illinois,  perhaps  the  richest 
farming  land  in  the  world,  had  we  ever  seen  love- 
lier fields. 

Their  chief  beast  of  burden  is  the  llama.  With 
its  long  neck  and  small  head  it  resembles  a  small 
camel.  They  are  very  little  care  to  the  native 
Indians  because  they  find  their  own  food.  For 
some  reason  the  alpacas  do  not  seem  to  work. 
They  are  kept  presumably  for  their  long  and  fine 
wool,  and  look  like  large  sheep.  In  these  high 
altitudes  the  alpaca  fights  for  every  bit  of  green 
that  it  eats  and  so  its  life  is  a  long  continuous 
struggle  for  sustenance.  The  men  and  women  in 
these  heights  are  splendid  types,  fine-looking  and 
very  bright.  The  stupid  Indians  are  found  in  the 
sea  levels.  However,  in  all  altitudes  most  of 
them  seem  to  be  opposed  to  cleanliness.  As  a 
usual  thing  their  houses  are  made  of  bamboo  and 


Earthquakes  and  Indians  95 

covered  with  adobe,  and  have  a  hole  In  the  center 
of  the  roof  to  let  out  the  smoke.  Nearly  all  the 
houses  are  surmounted  by  the  cross,  an  indication 
of  their  religious  tendency. 


CHAPTER  XIV 

cuzco 

SWINGING  down  the  long  canon  of  the  Vil- 
camayo,  we  hurried  on  to  Cuzco,  which  we 
reached  late  in  the  evening.  The  location  of  this 
city  is  said  to  be  more  beautiful  than  the  world- 
famed  Rome  or  Athens,  and  the  beauty  which 
lies  outspread  before  the  observer  on  Sacsahua- 
man  is  not  to  be  denied.  The  memory  of  its  glori- 
ous and  brilliant  past  consoled  us  to  a  large  extent 
for  its  present-day  inconveniences  and  obnoxious 
smells.  We  spent  a  week  there.  We  visited  its 
wonderful  cathedral  with  its  silver  altar,  its  Tem- 
ple of  the  Sun,  its  Inca  ruins  and  the  Fortress  of 
Sacsahuaman,  the  walls  of  which  are  built  of 
enormous  stones,  perfectly  cut  and  adjusted  with 
a  nicety  before  which  present-day  engineers  gasp 
in  admiration.  The  old  Temple  of  the  Sun  is 
now  a  Catholic  monastery.  The  great  stone 
benches  out  on  the  fortress  are  veritable  arm- 
chairs. They  are  smooth  and  comfortable  and 
we  stood  before  them  in  awe,  trying  to  realize 
what  such  labor  with  only  the  rude  implements 
they  had  at  their  disposal  must  have  meant  to 

96 


Cuzco 97 

those  who  fashioned  them.  What  difficult 
things  the  Incas  accomplished.  And  how  little 
they  seemed  to  regard  the  labor  I  If  a  thing  was 
desired  it  was  done.  If  the  chief  ordered  it  no 
questions  were  asked.  And  no  one  ever  knew  the 
number  of  lives  given  to  the  accomplishment  of 
this  huge  building.  Only  one  who  saw  the  fulfill- 
ment could  know.  What  a  lesson  in  discipline 
for  us  all ! 

Cuzco  has  twenty-five  thousand  inhabitants  and 
lies  at  an  altitude  of  eleven  thousand  feet.  Its 
civilization,  its  magnificent  temples,  its  power,  its 
wealth,  and  its  terrible  tragedies  still  give  to  its 
massive  ruins  an  undying  fame.  Four  centuries 
ago  it  had  no  rival  in  its  treasures  of  gold  and 
silver,  and  its  marvelous  constructions  and 
buildings,  of  which  the  remains  are  still  to  be 
seen. 

The  Inca  Empire  lasted  about  four  centuries. 
The  legend  Is  that  they  were  children  of  the  sun. 
They  first  appeared  on  the  Island  of  the  Sun,  on 
Lake  Titicaca,  coming  later  to  Cuzco  and  estab- 
lishing their  dominion.  The  first  Inca,  Manco, 
was  a  great  and  wise  ruler.  His  successor  built 
the  buildings,  founded  schools  for  the  education 
of  his  people  and  punished  all  breakers  of  the 
laws.  A  system  of  Irrigating  canals,  twelve  feet 
deep  and  four  hundred  feet  long,  a  remarkable 
feat  of  engineering,  gave  them  pasture  land,  and 


98  Below  the  Equator 

was  only  one  of  the  things  they  did.  Their  armiej 
were  excellent.  They  kept  the  laws.  Because 
they  worshiped  the  sun  their  Temple  of  the  Sur 
was  covered  with  a  roof  of  gold,  and  in  its  gar- 
dens were  artificial  flowers  made  of  gold  anc 
silver.  In  fact,  they  made  figures  of  animals, 
plants,  and  trees,  images  of  men,  women,  and  chil- 
dren, all  of  solid  gold.  Doors  were  covered  witt 
gold  and  a  gold  cornice  more  than  a  yard  deep 
ran  around  the  building.  When  the  sun's  rayj 
fell  upon  all  this  glitter  the  people  were  dazzled, 
It  took  generations  to  build  the  temple,  but  it  waj 
the  most  wonderful  thing  In  the  world  when  com- 
pleted. Only  the  Indian  nobles  were  permittee 
to  enter  the  Sun  Temple,  and  the  only  womer 
granted  entrance  were  the  wife  and  daughters  oi 
the  reigning  Inca.  Mummified  bodies  of  the 
Incas,  clad  in  royal  robes  and  seated  on  golden 
thrones,  with  eyes  downcast  and  hands  folded 
across  the  breast,  sat  on  each  side  of  the  deity 
whose  image  also  was  made  of  gold. 

Indeed,  gold  was  so  plentiful  that  it  may  safel> 
be  said  no  king,  no  emperor  In  the  world  ever  had 
wealth  to  equal  It.  The  service  In  the  Inca's  house 
was  of  gold  and  silver,  even  his  kitchen  utensils 
were  of  silver  and  copper.  He  had  colossal 
statues  of  gold  In  his  home  and  animals  and  tree* 
of  the  precious  metal;  also  ropes  and  baskets  and 
piles  of  golden  sticks  to  imitate  fuel  prepared  foi 


rhot'j  by   E.    M.    Newman 

Ruins  of  Ancient  Inca  Forts,  Cuzco,  Peru 


Photo   by    E.    M.    Newman 

Town   of  Juliaca,   Peru 
14,000   feet   above   sea   level 


Cuzco  99 

burning.  In  fact,  everything  he  saw  about  him 
was  imitated  in  gold. 

Another  temple  was  dedicated  to  the  moon. 
Its  ceiling  was  covered  with  silver  stars.  Still 
another  was  dedicated  to  the  thunder  and  the 
lightning.  Then  there  was  the  Hall  of  the  Rain- 
bow, filled  with  gold  plate  and  jewels,  in  which 
the  priests  gave  audience.  There  was  also  a  house 
of  the  Virgins.  There  were  of  these  fifteen  hun- 
dred, selected  from  the  royal  lineage  of  Cuzco, 
and  chosen  for  their  beauty  and  their  high  birth. 
They  wove  and  spun  the  clothing  of  the  Inca  and 
his  queen.  The  dishes  and  utensils  which  they 
used  were  made  of  solid  gold.  They  entered  the 
convent  at  the  age  of  seven  and  were  vowed  to 
chastity.  All  of  the  wondrous  wealth  of  which  I 
speak  was  stolen  or  absorbed  by  the  Spaniards, 
and  their  treatment  of  the  Indians  was  abomin- 
able. 

What  scenes  of  joyous  festivity  must  have  taken 
place  in  the  streets  of  Cuzco  in  the  olden  days! 
The  inhabitants  were  a  cultured  and  happy  peo- 
ple. It  was  only  the  wealth  and  strength  of  these 
glorious  memories  which  gave  us  courage  to 
endure  the  fetid  stenches  of  the  present  day.  The 
Cuzco  of  today  is  inconceivably  filthy,  yet  we  were 
informed  that  recent  heavy  rains  had  made  it 
much  cleaner  than  usual!  What  must  it  have 
been  in  the  dry  season  I     There  seems  to  be  no 


100  Below  the  Equator 

laws  of  hygiene  here.  The  government  has  seem- 
ingly accepted  the  disgusting  filth  everywhere 
apparent  as  an  inevitable  fact  which  cannot  be 
remedied.  This  city  of  a  great  past  is  now  just 
a  spot  of  nauseating  odors,  and  nothing  but  our 
devotion  to  the  memories  of  the  glorious  days  of 
the  Incas  kept  us  within  its  bounds  for  the  ten  days 
that  we  stayed  there. 

From  a  business  standpoint,  Cuzco  seems  thriv- 
ing enough.  The  stores  contain  pretty  things,  and 
aside  from  the  Indians,  the  people  are  well- 
dressed  and  seem  busy.  We  wondered  how  they 
could  walk  so  contentedly  through  the  dirty 
streets. 

The  beautiful  painting  of  Christ  by  Van  Dyck, 
which  we  especially  wished  to  see  in  the  cathedral, 
we  came  near  not  seeing  at  all.  They  regard  it, 
rightly,  as  very  precious,  and  it  was  only  after  we 
had  spent  some  time  in  explaining  our  wish  to 
view  it  to  a  polite  old  priest  that  he  consented.  He 
told  us  then  that  the  picture  had  been  stolen  and 
injured  by  thieves  only  the  week  before.  They 
had  cut  it  out  of  the  frame,  rolled  it  up  carelessly 
and  carried  it  away.  Only  the  day  before  it  had 
been  recovered.  Excitement  in  regard  to  it  was 
still  running  high  and  naturally  they  did  not  wish 
to  risk  losing  it  again.  However,  he  evidently 
sized  us  up  as  honest  and  sincere.  So  he  took  us 
into  a  little  room  where  the  beautiful  canvas  was 


Cuzco  101 

stretched  out  on  a  long  table  in  the  center  of  the 
room.  This  was  the  only  way  in  which  we  could 
see  it.  Naturally  we  could  not  judge  its  merits, 
but  we  were  nevertheless  much  impressed  by  its 
soft  and  beautiful  coloring. 

In  Santo  Domingo  church,  or  rather  convent, 
the  devotees  occupy  cells  that  were  once  used  by 
the  Virgins  of  the  Sun,  and  the  walls  of  San 
Lazoro  are  ornamented  with  bodies  of  birds  hav- 
ing women's  heads  carved  by  the  bronze  chisels 
of  the  Inca  artisans.  The  pulpit  of  San  Bias  is 
famed  the  world  over  for  its  beauty,  as  is  also 
La  Merced.  In  the  latter  the  remains  of  Almagro 
and  two  of  Pizarro's  brothers  are  buried. 

Sacsahuaman,  the  great  fortress  on  the  hilltop, 
is  the  most  inspiring  spot.  The  immensity  of  the 
stones  which  had  to  be  raised  here  leaves  one 
almost  breathless  with  admiration  for  the  extraor- 
dinary work  these  people  accomplished.  On  the 
way  one  passes  the  famous  stone  with  twelve 
angles,  where  the  joining  is  so  fine  that  a  knife- 
blade  cannot  pass  between  the  sections.  No  mor- 
tar was  used,  and  how  their  wonderful  work  was 
accomplished  without  tools  of  steel,  or  other  metal, 
remains  a  mystery.  We  stood  on  this  old  fortress 
and  looked  down  upon  the  Cuzco  of  today  with  a 
feeling  of  sadness.  How  she  has  changed !  That 
very  morning  I  had  watched  with  horror  an  old 
woman  who  was  preparing  vegetables  for  her 


102  Below  the  Equator 

soup.  She  was  calmly  washing  them  in  the  sewer ! 
And  this  is  only  one  of  many  such  things  we  saw 
there. 

Once  upon  a  time  Cuzco  contained  four  hun- 
dred thousand  souls.  She  was  hemmed  in  by  walls 
of  colored  marble.  Her  glorious  temples  were 
incomparable.  Her  splendid  civilization  and  her 
people  of  royal  lineage  were  her  treasures.  Today, 
with  her  twenty-five  thousand  inhabitants,  she  is 
the  wreck  of  her  former  greatness,  although  her 
remains  are  enough.  Whenever  I  complained  of 
the  trying  conditions  which  we  were  compelled 
to  submit  to  my  husband  would  say  to  me : 

"Well,  what  of  it?  No  matter  what  we  see, 
no  matter  what  we  have  to  endure,  we  are  in 
Cuzco!'*  His  enthusiasm  always  buoyed  me 
greatly.  After  all,  he  was  right.  Cuzco  is  the 
most  fascinating  spot  in  the  world. 

Throughout  Peru  we  had  been  told  wonderful 
stories  of  the  marvelous  wealth  the  Incas  had 
hidden  away  to  keep  it  from  the  covetous  Span- 
iards, The  legends  of  fabulous  amounts  of  gold 
put  away  in  this  manner  are  innumerable.  One 
of  the  prettiest,  I  thought,  was  of  the  Golden 
Chain  made  by  the  Inca,  Huayna  Capac,  which 
was  long  enough  to  be  stretched  all  around  the 
great  square  of  Cuzco.  The  Incas  took  this 
superb  piece  of  work  and  carried  it  to  Lake  Urcos. 
There  they  had  many  ceremonies  appertaining  to 


Cuzco  103 

it  and  after  the  conclusion  of  them  threw  the 
chain  into  the  waters.  In  this  way  it  could  never 
be  taken  by  their  enemies,  the  Spaniards.  Every- 
body believes  it  to  be  still  at  the  bottom  of  the 
lake,  and  this  lovely  little  lake  has  been  dragged 
and  sounded  many  times  in  the  hopes  of  finding  it. 
Needless  to  add,  if  it  was  ever  thrown  there,  that 
it  is  still  there  now. 

We  came  near  having  a  tragedy  the  morning 
we  attempted  the  fortress.  The  climb  is  very 
abrupt,  and,  owing  to  the  fact  that  a  pretty  trick- 
ling stream  keeps  nearly  all  the  stones  wet,  we 
were  told  that  it  was  a  little  dangerous  to  go  on 
horseback.  Yet  it  was  a  long,  hard  climb  on  foot, 
so  we  determined  to  try  the  horses.  I  took  the 
precaution  of  having  a  man  at  my  horse's  head — 
an  act  I  did  not  regret,  because,  hard  as  the  ascent 
was,  the  descent  was  much  more  difficult.  The 
horses  often  stumbled  badly.  Just  as  we  were 
ready  to  start  we  all  got  very  much  upset.  With 
some  eastern  friends  we  had  intended  going  alone, 
but  a  touring  party  which  we  had  run  across  sev- 
eral times  since  we  left  Lima  decided  to  make  the 
journey  at  the  same  hour.  Everybody  was  laugh- 
ing and  happy  when  we  went  out  to  mount  the 
horses.  One  of  the  men  was  rather  heavy,  and 
the  mounting  was  successfully  done  by  all  except 
this  gentleman.  As  he  attempted  to  vault  into  the 
saddle,  he  overdid  it,  or  else  perhaps  the  saddle 


104  Below  the  Equator 

slipped.  At  any  rate,  he  vaulted  clear  over  his 
animal  and  came  down  with  the  full  force  of  his 
weight  squarely  on  his  head,  striking  the  hard 
cobblestones.  It  was  a  bad  moment  for  us  all, 
and  especially  so  for  his  wife.  We  thought  that 
his  neck  must  be  broken  and  that  he  would  be 
picked  up  dead.  Luckily  for  him,  however,  his 
soft  cap  had  clung  tightly  to  his  head,  thus  break- 
ing the  blow,  and  beyond  a  cut  and  a  few  bruises 
which  did  not  prove  serious,  he  was  unhurt.  Still, 
he  was  pretty  much  jarred,  his  wife  was  nervous, 
and  for  those  two  the  pleasure  of  the  day  was 
gone.  They  remained  at  the  hotel  and  the  party 
went  on  without  them. 

My  guide  said:  *^ At  instante  que  yo  supe  del 
peligro  en  que  el  se  encontraba  fui  a  su  socorro, 
Senora**  (The  instant  I  saw  the  danger  to  him  I 
went  to  his  rescue). 

It  Is  pitiful  to  see  In  Cuzco  the  loads  strapped  to 
the  backs  of  the  children — mere  babies  they 
seem!  And  one  man  carried  my  trunk  on  his 
back  for  two  and  a  half  miles  up  a  hill  (it  was  a 
heavy  trunk,  too),  for  which  his  charge  was 
twenty-iive  cents  American  money.  He  looked  at 
us  In  amazement  when  we  trebled  the  amount. 

We  studied  a  museum  of  curios  and  Inca  relics 
and  saw  the  mummified  remains  of  prisoners  who 
had  been  burled  alive.  The  horrible  expression  of 
torture  on  their  faces,  the  distorted  condition  of 


Cuzco  105 

their  bodies,  made  us  shiver.  What  agonies  they 
must  have  endured  before  death  I 

The  weather  was  very  cold  while  we  were  in 
Cuzco.  Though  it  was  February  and  their  mid- 
summer, we  fairly  shivered  all  the  time.  We  were 
wearing  the  heaviest  clothing,  and  I  never  let  my 
hot-water  bottle  get  away  from  me  during  the 
night.  There  is  no  heat,  of  course,  in  any  of  these 
houses,  and  there  were  but  two  rooms  in  the  hotel 
which  had  any  outside  ventilation.  Dr.  and  Mrs. 
Wilson  and  Miss  Wilson,  from  Bridgeport,  Con- 
necticut, were  with  us  and  we  were  fortunate 
enough  to  get  both  rooms.  All  of  the  natives  seem 
to  huddle  together  in  one  room  in  the  homes.  We 
could  see  into  many  of  the  houses  through  the 
door,  their  only  means  of  ventilation.  Men, 
women,  children,  and  animals  congregate  in  this 
manner.  They  cook,  eat,  sleep  in  this  one  room. 
It  goes  without  saying  that  it  is  horribly  dirty  and 
that  the  odors  are  far  from  agreeable. 

All  down  the  Pacific  coast  and  through  Peru 
we  had  observed  the  picturesque  way  the  women 
have  of  wearing  the  manta.  It  is  a  black  shawl 
pinned  tightly  over  the  head,  covering  the  ears 
and  giving  only  a  small  view  of  the  face.  Somber 
and  black  as  these  women  look,  it  is  a  novel  and 
attractive  headdress.  Some  of  the  younger  ones 
are  exceedingly  pretty  in  this  mournful  manta.  The 
whole  southern  country  is  devoted  to  black,  and  if 


106  Below  the  Equator 

one  appears  who  is  not  wearing  it  she  usually  goes 
to  the  other  extreme  and  arrays  herself  in  vivid 
shades,  affecting  every  different  shade  of  the  rain- 
bow. The  women  greet  each  other  in  curious 
fashion.  They  do  not  kiss  at  all,  but  they  hug 
each  other  closely,  lightly  rubbing  their  cheeks 
together,  first  one  and  then  the  other.  In  this 
way  they  demonstrate  their  affection,  but  even  if 
one  is  close  enough  to  see  them  at  such  a  moment 
their  faces  will  be  found  to  be  quite  impassive. 

To  the  Spanish  wife  of  the  hotel  proprietor  at 
Cuzco,  who  had  been  most  kind  to  me,  I  spoke 
always  in  the  best  Spanish  at  my  command  —  it 
was  excellent  practice  and  the  only  way  in  which 
I  could  make  myself  understood.  On  parting,  I 
used  a  phrase  I  had  prepared  with  some  difficulty, 
which  seemed  to  surprise  her  and  give  her  great 
pleasure:  *^ Me  averguenzo  de  haher  dado  a 
Us  ted  tanta  moles  tia,  pero  me  ac  or  dare  to  da  la 
vtda  delservicio  que  me  ha  hecho"  (I  am  ashamed 
to  have  been  the  cause  of  so  much  inconvenience, 
but  in  return  I  will  remember  the  rest  of  my  life 
your  service). 

The  eucalyptus  and  pepper  trees  are  many  and 
are  the  finest  trees  in  Peru.  The  morning  we  left 
Cuzco  we  were  up  before  dawn  and  had  our  coffee 
and  bread  on  the  train.  It  had  rained  most  of  the 
night  before  and  the  mountains  were  covered  with 
new-fallen  snow.     The  funny  little  car,  the  only 


Cuzco 


107 


street  railway  in  Cuzco,  took  us  to  the  station; 
and,  by  the  way,  it  is  used  solely  for  that  purpose. 
It  runs  only  to  and  from  the  trains.  The  fog  was 
still  clinging  to  the  mountains,  and  there  was  a 
golden  haze  made  by  the  rising  sun.  Its  yellow 
reflection  softened  many  of  the  stern  realities  of 
the  town  we  were  leaving.  The  adobe  fences, 
from  which  a  curious  growth  of  cactus  frequently 
is  to  be  seen  springing  out,  were  shining  with  ice 
crystals  or  frost.  The  picturesque  Indians,  in  their 
variegated  colors,  were  already  filling  the  streets. 
The  splendid  ruins  on  the  hill,  the  great  walls  of 
the  city,  the  peaceful  valley  which  lay  at  the  foot 
of  the  mountains,  filled  us  with  a  sense  of  myste- 
rious charm.  We  realized  that,  after  all,  no 
matter  what  inconveniences  must  be  endured,  the 
sight  of  Cuzco  and  the  memory  of  her  glorious 
past  amply  repays  one. 


CHAPTER  XV 

LAKE   TITICACA 

BEFORE  I  began  my  journey  down  the  Pacific 
I  had  always  heard  of  South  America  as  a 
country  of  rebellions  and  uprisings.  I  was  forced 
to  change  my  mind  about  many  of  the  things,  but 
the  uprisings  was  not  one  of  them.  The  memory 
of  the  latter  will  linger  with  me  to  my  dying  day. 
During  our  six  months*  stay  In  this  southern  coun- 
try, every  train  we  took  seemed  to  leave  at  five 
o'clock  in  the  morning!  How  dreadful  those 
uprisings  were!  Personally,  I  regard  It  as  an 
absolute  Impossibility  to  really  enjoy  anything  at 
five  o'clock  in  the  morning,  all  the  more  so  because 
I  spent  many  hours  of  the  night  studying  that  bril- 
liant constellation,  the  Southern  Cross,  watching 
Its  gradual  climb  upward  and  never  tiring  of  Its 
two  superb  stars,  which,  although  they  really 
belong  to  another  group,  always  seem  a  part  of 
it.  These  stars,  called  the  Pointers,  always  point 
to  the  Southern  Cross.  I  did  not  care  how  late 
I  sat  up  watching  them,  but  one  morning  when  I 
had  been  wakened  at  an  unearthly  hour,  someone 
added  Insult  to  Injury  by  calling  my  attention  to 

108 


Lake  Titicaca  109 


the  fact  that  I  could  now  see  the  brilliant  Pointers 
upside  down !  I  looked  without  enthusiasm  upon 
the  scene.  In  spite  of  my  hot-blooded  southern 
ancestry,  I  was  so  haughtily  indifferent  to  the 
beauty  of  the  view  that  my  husband  remarked 
that  he  saw  a  "southern  cross,"  and  —  it  wasn't 
in  the  sky. 

One  morning,  however,  I  was  really  anxious  to 
arise  before  dawn.  It  was  on  Lake  Titicaca. 
We  had  reached  the  place  the  previous  evening. 
It  was  about  six  o'clock  when  we  arrived  and  the 
full  moon  was  just  rising.  On  this  beautiful  lake, 
the  highest  body  of  navigable  water  in  the  world, 
the  air  was  clear  and  decidedly  frosty.  It  is  thir- 
teen thousand  ^vt  hundred  feet  high  —  in  other 
words,  two  and  a  third  miles  up  In  the  air.  In 
spite  of  the  moonlight  the  stars  shone  brilliantly. 
They  glowed  like  fire,  the  peculiarity  of  the  atmos- 
phere giving  them  a  wonderful  luminosity.  We 
sat  late  on  deck,  positively  thrilled  by  the  beauty 
of  the  night.  In  order  to  reach  Lake  Titicaca 
we  had  had  to  retrace  our  steps  from  Cuzco  to 
Jullaca,  running  again  through  that  marvelously 
cultivated  country  which  had  already  so  impressed 
us.  Leaving  Juliaca,  we  had  gone  on  down  to 
Puno,  on  the  border  of  the  lake.  The  railroad, 
like  the  other  wonderful  one  already  spoken  of, 
was  built  by  Henry  Meiggs.  No  wonder  Peru 
honors  his  memory.     All  through  these  countries 


no  Below  the  Equator 

the  mountains  have  to  be  climbed  or  tunneled,  and 
sometimes  at  every  few  yards  one  is  plunged  into 
darkness. 

As  Lake  Titicaca  Is  one  hundred  and  sixty-five 
miles  long  by  sixty  wide,  and  as  it  lies  in  the  heart 
of  the  Andes,  we  could  see  the  snow-clad  heights 
all  about  us.  Over  our  heads  glowed  the  three 
crosses — the  Southern  Cross,  the  Astral  Triangle, 
and  the  False  Cross.  The  view  of  these  constella- 
tions alone  would  warm  the  coldest  blood,  but 
when  added  to  the  beauty  which  surrounded  them 
It  was  a  never-to-be-forgotten  sight.  Before  dawn 
I  was  again  on  deck.  This  was  the  one  morning 
of  which  I  did  not  complain.  The  stars  were  still 
distinctly  visible,  but  they  soon  faded  before  the 
rosy  streaks  of  dawn.  A  few  moments  more  and 
the  sun  began  shimmering  the  lake  with  gold.  The 
great  Sorota  mountain  range  stretched  away  in 
magnificence  and  from  its  more  than  twenty  thou- 
sand feet  of  dazzling  whiteness  seemed  to  smile 
down  upon  us.  We  felt  as  if  we  had  but  to  reach 
out  to  touch  the  peaks.  In  reality  they  were 
hundreds  of  miles  away. 

Here  one  sees  the  Cordillera  Real,  gigantic 
Illampu,  Illimanl,  and  Huayna  Potosi,  twenty 
thousand  to  twenty  one  thousand  five  hundred  feet 
above  sea  level. 

The  waters  of  Lake  Titicaca  are  wonderfully 
clear.    It  is  fed  by  streams  from  the  snow-covered 


Lake  Titicaca  ill 


dark  and  its  crystalline  depths  are  very  cold,  like 
the  waters  of  Lake  Superior.  It  would  be  impos- 
sible to  live  in  them  many  minutes. 

Indeed,  in  both  coldness  and  limpidity  the 
waters  of  Lake  Titicaca  are  the  only  ones  that 
have  ever  compared  in  our  minds  with  the 
crystal  ones  of  Lake  Superior.  On  the  red 
sandstone  shores  of  Lake  Superior  we  have  a 
summer  home  —  a  quaint  log  cabin — where  for 
many  years  the  glorious  mirages  by  day  and 
the  mysterious  Aurora  by  night  have  enchanted 
us. 

Ever  since  I  was  a  girl  I  had  read  of  this  great 
inland  water.  Lake  Titicaca,  which  lay  between 
the  two  ranges  of  the  Cordillera,  about  three  miles 
above  the  ocean  level.  After  years  of  longing  to 
look  at  it  I  found  it  even  more  beautiful  than  I 
had  imagined.  On  all  sides  the  majestic  range 
of  the  Andes  looked  down  upon  us.  The  great 
chain,  stretching  hundreds  of  miles  away,  ending 
in  the  gigantic  Illimani,  which  looks  down  upon 
La  Paz,  lay  before  us.  Nestling  in  many  of  the 
mountains  were  wondrous  glaciers,  clear  and 
green  in  color.  No  clouds  were  to  be  seen.  Every 
foot  of  the  beautiful  range  was  clear  and  distinct 
in  a  blazing  sunlight.  Every  line  of  the  snowy 
Cordillera  which  divides  the  lake  basin  from  the 
valleys  that  run  down  to  the  east  and  the  Amazo- 


112  Below  the  Equator 

nian  forest  was  visible.  Mystery  lay  in  its  solemn 
immensity. 

We  had  no  time  to  give  to  the  Indian  temples 
on  the  lake,  interesting  as  they  were.  Most  reluc- 
tantly we  passed  them  by.  But  we  resolved  to 
come  again  on  the  homeward  trip.  As  half  of 
Lake  Titicaca  lies  in  Bolivia,  we  crossed  to  Guaqui. 
Here  we  were  met  by  dozens  of  Indians  sailing 
their  balsa  boats.  These  are  made  of  rushes  and 
look  very  fragile,  but  they  are  said  to  be  quite 
durable  and  they  glide  across  the  water  with  a 
grace  which  is  charming.  As  we  took  our  way 
onward  we  had  just  a  glimpse  of  the  great  Inca 
monument,  Tiahuanaco,  between  trains.  This, 
too,  we  were  forced  to  leave  for  a  later  visit  when 
we  should  turn  our  faces  homeward  again. 

The  figures  at  Tiahuanaco  were  the  last  we  saw, 
and  were  so  wonderful  that  we  have  never  ceased 
to  regret  we  could  not  linger  and  study  them.  The 
monolith,  that  stands  in  full  view  even  from  the 
train,  is  superbly  sculptured,  and  it  is  said  that  all 
the  colossal  figures  found  on  Easter  Island  —  the 
island  of  Robinson  Crusoe,  off  the  coast  of  Chile 
—  have  a  marked  resemblance  to  the  figures  found 
here  at  Tiahuanaco.  All  of  this  work  is  pre-Inca, 
which  makes  it  the  more  remarkable  —  that  people 
thousands  of  miles  apart  as  they  were  could  do 
similar  work,  showing  that  even  then  there  must 
have  been  communication  between  them. 


CHAPTER  XVI 

BOLIVIA 

BOLIVIA  Is  a  large  country,  bounded  on  three 
of  its  sides  by  Brazil,  Paraguay,  and  Argen- 
tina. It  was  deprived  of  its  seaboard  on  the 
Pacific  coast  by  Peru  and  Chile.  Before  it  was 
liberated  it  was  called  Upper  Peru.  The  country 
is  nearly  all  high  land  and  very  mountainous, 
although  it  has  many  plains.  In  the  heart  of  the 
country  the  fertile  spots  and  mineral  wealth  are 
enormous.  She  possesses  wonderful  possibilities 
for  development,  but,  alas,  her  progress  cannot  be 
rapid.  She  is  heavily  handicapped  by  having  no 
port  on  the  ocean,  being  entirely  an  inland  coun- 
try. Bolivia  seems  to  take  pride  in  the  fact  that 
she  has  had  more  revolutions  than  any  other 
country  in  South  America !  The  war  with  Chile 
In  which  Bolivia  fought  with  Peru  ended  badly 
for  her.  When  she  was  cut  off  from  the  ocean 
she  lost  all  of  her  nitrate  fields.  It  Is  the 
great  hope  of  the  Bolivians  that  some  day  they 
may  again  have  a  seaport.  Many  Germans 
have  peopled  the  country.  In  fact,  the  two 
principal    nations    there    are    English    and    Ger- 

113 


114  Below  the  Equator 

man.     They  are  thrifty  and  have  acquired  great 
wealth. 

Bolivia's  government  consists  of  a  president,  a 
congress,  and  a  judiciary,  and  the  people  are  sup- 
posed to  have  equal  suffrage.  It  is  astonishing 
that  people  can  live,  even,  to  say  nothing  of  being 
so  healthy  and  hearty,  in  a  country  the  lowest 
level  of  which  is  about  thirteen  thousand  feet. 
Evidently,  however,  it  is  the  old  case  of  the  sur- 
vival of  the  fittest.  They  are  said  to  be  the 
strongest  and  the  healthiest  people  in  South 
America.  There  are  no  lowlands  in  Bolivia,  but 
one  part  (the  western  portion)  has  a  fine  clear 
climate.  It  surprised  us  to  find  this  part  so  little 
cultivated.  The  most  disagreeable  climate  and 
the  roughest  part  of  the  country  seem  to  have 
been  selected  for  their  large  city.  La  Paz. 

Not  much  is  really  known  of  the  early  history 
of  Bolivia.  When  the  Spaniards  first  invaded  the 
country  Bolivia  was  under  the  rule  of  the  Incas 
and  they  offered  very  little  resistance  to  the  tor- 
nado from  Spain  which  swept  down  upon  them. 
Injustice  and  oppression  somehow  seemed  to  be 
the  early  history  of  all  these  South  American 
countries.  Imprisonment  and  death  were  com- 
mon punishments  for  the  slightest  offenses.  No 
matter  what  concession  was  offered  by  the  poor 
natives,  nothing  seemed  to  avail  them.  Their 
offers  were   often   accepted   and  then   treachery 


Bolivia  115 


followed.  Like  Peru,  Bolivia  had  fabulous 
wealth.  But  it  all  went  to  fill  the  coffers  of 
Spain.  For  nearly  two  hundred  years  after  the 
Spanish  conquest,  Bolivia  was  a  part  of  Peru. 
But  when  the  war  of  independence  came 
the  people  named  it  Bolivia,  in  honor  of 
Simon  Bolivar,  the  Liberator.  Until  he  came  the 
feeble  efforts  of  the  Bolivians  to  protect  them- 
selves were  unavailing.  Their  leaders  and  sol- 
diers perished  in  great  numbers,  and  until  the 
arrival  of  General  San  Martin  in  1821  there 
appeared  to  be  little  hope  for  them.  He  gave 
them  new  courage,  and  when  General  Bolivar 
arrived  in  La  Paz  and  undertook  their  leadership 
their  troublous  times  seemed  to  have  come  to  an 
end. 

All  through  the  northern  republics  of  South 
America,  Simon  Bolivar  was  known  as  the  Lib- 
erator. His  leadership,  courage,  and  patriotism 
certainly  were  the  means  of  throwing  off  the  yoke 
of  Spain.  Only  a  man  of  his  indomitable  courage 
could  have  achieved  what  he  did  in  these  countries. 
With  only  a  few  men,  with  almost  impenetrable 
swamps  as  barriers,  with  the  land  filled  with  poi- 
son, and  mountains  covered  with  snow  and  Ice  to 
mihtate  against  him,  it  is  a  wonder  that  he  had 
any  success  worth  mentioning.  He  was  born  in 
Caracas  in  1783.  He  came  of  a  family  of  wealth 
and  refinement.     His  mother  was  a  woman  of 


116  Below  the  Equator 

distinction  and  saw  to  it  that  her  son  was  well 
educated  under  competent  instructors.  His  father 
died  in  the  boy's  extreme  youth.  At  sixteen  he 
was  sent  to  Spain.  His  letters  of  introduction 
gave  him  access  to  the  finest  and  best  homes  there 
and  at  the  Spanish  court.  He  soon  became  a 
polished  caballero.  He  traveled  all  over  Europe, 
but,  as  he  was  of  a  studious  turn  of  mind,  he  did 
not  neglect  his  education.  He  could  not  fail  to 
note  the  progress  of  the  Spanish  cities  and  con- 
trasted them  sadly  with  those  of  his  own  country, 
which  was  under  such  heavy  bondage.  He  was 
an  enthusiastic  admirer  of  Napoleon,  who  was 
then  at  the  height  of  his  power.  When  he  was 
but  eighteen  he  fell  in  love  with  a  beautiful  young 
Spanish  girl,  married  her,  and  brought  her  back 
to  his  old  home  in  Caracas.  For  a  while  it  looked 
as  if,  absorbed  in  love  and  happiness,  he  was 
indifferent  to  affairs  of  state.  At  the  end  of  two 
years,  however,  his  young  wife  died,  and  it  was 
a  long  time  before  he  could  recover  from  the 
despair  into  which  he  was  plunged  by  her  loss. 
Gradually,  however,  he  awakened  from  his  sor- 
row and  once  more  looked  about  at  his  people. 
Then  came  his  first  desire  to  liberate  them.  Al- 
though he  was  a  ready  speaker  and  writer,  a  man 
of  broad  education,  handsome,  well  groomed,  and 
most  agreeable  in  his  personality,  there  was  some 
disposition  among  the  haughty  Spanish  in  the 


Bolivia  117 


higher  society  to  plot  against  him.  This  was  due 
to  the  fact  that  there  was  a  little  Indian  blood  in 
his  veins.  Many  of  the  most  exclusive  houses 
were  closed  to  him  for  this  reason,  and  this  bred 
in  him  much  bitterness  of  spirit.  This  depriva- 
tion of  a  society  which  was  agreeable  to  a  man 
of  his  education  and  wide  experience  may  have 
had  much  to  do  with  forcing  him  into  another  line 
of  occupation.  But  he  was  a  born  leader  and  it 
was  not  long  until  his  country  recognized  him  as 
such. 

Gradually  he  assumed  charge  of  the  public 
interest.  He  was  regarded  as  honest  and  they 
entrusted  him  with  all  their  hopes  of  gaining  free- 
dom from  Spain.  He  tried  to  obtain  the  assist- 
ance of  both  England  and  France,  but  both  failed 
him,  and  during  all  this  time  Spain  was  directing 
all  her  furies  toward  the  colonists.  But  Bolivar 
had  the  confidence  of  the  people.  The  women 
even  gave  him  their  jewels  to  help  the  cause. 

After  Bolivar  became  commander-in-chief  of 
the  army  another  revolution  was  brought  about 
and  the  independence  of  Venezuela  was  declared. 
The  Spanish  commander,  Monte  Verde,  came 
through  Into  the  Interior  of  Venezuela,  killing 
everything  In  his  path.  Bolivar  lost  his  leader- 
ship and  everything  was  in  the  greatest  confusion. 
Murders  and  disorders  followed.  He  fled  to 
foreign  lands,  but  In  two  years  he  came  back  with 


118  Below  the  Equator 

a  little  army,  and  when  he  marched  into  Caracas 
he  was  hailed  with  wild  demonstrations  of  joy. 
He  was  made  dictator.  But  a  change  had  come 
over  the  personality  of  the  man.  After  this  he 
seems  to  have  been  driven  to  brutality  more  hor- 
rible than  the  Spaniards  had  given  to  the  colonists. 
At  one  time  he  considered  it  his  duty  to  execute 
eight  hundred  Spanish  merchants  and  soldiers 
whom  he  was  holding  as  prisoners.  The  records 
show  that  at  times  the  slaughter  was  so  terrible 
that  the  gutters  actually  ran  blood.  Again  Spain 
was  victorious  and  Bolivar  fled  into  exile.  A  price 
was  put  upon  his  head,  and  all  thought  that  now 
he  was  impotent  and  powerless.  But  his  was  an 
ambition  which  could  be  quenched  only  by  death. 
He  interested  a  Dutch-Frenchman  of  wealth  and 
the  latter  fitted  out  a  small  fleet  in  which  he  sailed 
up  the  Orinoco  River.  Out  of  the  very  heart  of  the 
tropics  he  came.  He  had  been  hiding  there  almost 
in  despair,  in  the  midst  of  deadly  reptiles,  death- 
dealing  insects,  and  infested  streams.  Now  he 
was  again  able  to  attack  the  Spanish  territory. 
At  a  certain  point  on  the  Orinoco  he  left  his  fleet 
and  started  to  cross  the  Andes.  This  time  it  was 
to  do  or  die,  he  told  his  little  band  of  followers. 
They  climbed  the  ice-bound  mountains  and  waded 
through  fearful  swamps  and  rivers.  Everything 
which  could  possibly  injure  them  seems  to  have 
attacked  them.    One  of  their  greatest  annoyances 


Bolivia  119 


was  a  small  fish  with  long  jaws  and  very  sharp 
teeth,  which  bit  the  bare  legs  of  the  soldiers  as 
they  went  through  the  waters.  Hundreds  of  them 
died,  but  when  it  seemed  that  they  could  go  no 
farther,  it  was  always  their  leader's  smile  and  his 
cheerfulness  which  held  them  together.  It  is 
hardly  to  be  believed,  but  when  in  this  depleted 
condition — worn-out,  hungry,  and  feeble  —  a 
strong  army  of  Spaniards  attacked  them,  the  little 
band  overthrew  them  and  gained  a  great  victory. 
It  is  recorded  that  they  fought  with  a  delirium 
and  a  wildness  which  could  not  be  withstood.  The 
tide  seemed  to  have  turned.  With  this  victory 
new  life  came  to  all  of  them,  and  from  this  time 
on  they  were  successful.  The  most  marvelous 
devotion  was  shown  Bolivar  by  his  followers. 
His  personality  was  hypnotic. 

There  is  a  story  of  a  woman  which  illustrates 
Bolivar's  hold  upon  his  people.  She  was  Dona 
Policapia,  a  well-born  woman  of  Bogota  —  beau- 
tiful, accomplished,  charming,  and  very  musical. 
When  the  Spaniards  attacked  the  city  she  played 
her  part  by  enticing  young  officers  to  her  house 
and  by  her  powers  of  fascination  gradually  learned 
in  the  course  of  their  conversation  many  of  their 
secrets.  This  information  she  forwarded  to  Boli- 
var. One  day  her  messenger  was  captured,  and 
when  threatened  with  death  he  betrayed  his  mis- 
tress.    She  was  arrested,  and  with  her  the  man 


120  Below  the  Equator 

to  whom  she  was  soon  to  be  married.  She  was 
offered  her  own  life  and  that  of  her  lover,  as  well 
as  the  privilege  of  retaining  all  her  wealth,  if 
she  would  confess.  She  spurned  the  offer.  The 
lovers  were  tied  together  and  orders  were  given 
to  fire  upon  them.  The  young  man  begged  her  to 
confess  and  save  herself,  but  she  turned  to  him 
and  asked  him  to  die  bravely  with  her.  As  the 
volley  was  fired  the  courageous  girl  threw  open 
her  mantle,  and  on  her  breast,  wrought  in  beauti- 
ful gold  embroidery,  were  the  words,  "Vive  la 
Patrie  I " 

Later  Bolivar  joined  the  Peruvians  and  helped 
to  free  them.  He  assisted  in  founding  their 
republic.  No  wonder  his  name  is  hailed  as  a  hero 
over  all  the  earth  among  men  who  hate  tyranny. 
The  republic  of  Bolivia  was  formed  to  perpetuate 
his  name,  and  he  returned  from  these  victories  to 
Caracas  covered  with  glory.  He  cared  nothing 
whatever  for  the  riches  he  might  have  had,  but 
he  hacj  one  great  ambition  which  was  never  real- 
ized. He  wanted  to  free  Cuba  before  he  died. 
His  end,  like  that  of  so  many  great  men,  was  sad. 
Petty  jealousies  and  ambitions  enabled  his  enemies 
to  be  in  the  saddle  before  his  death,  and  he  was, 
exiled  from  the  land  he  had  saved.  He  died  in 
1830,  but  his  last  message  was  noble  and  beauti- 
ful: "For  my  enemies  I  have  only  forgiveness. 
If  my  death  shall  contribute  to  the  cessation  of 


Bolivia  121 


factional  strife  and  the  consolidation  of  the  union 
I  shall  go  tranquilly  to  my  grave." 

With  the  building  of  a  much-needed  railroad, 
the  Madeira-Mamore,  around  the  rapids,  giving 
her  an  outlet  to  the  Amazon  and  Para  for  her 
rubber  industry,  Bolivia's  progress  has  gone  for- 
ward in  leaps  and  bounds.  Her  wealth  from  this 
is  so  great  that  it  is  impossible  even  to  compute  it. 
Countless  miles  of  rubber  land,  as  well  as  gold  and 
tin  mines,  yield  her  billions  each  year.  The  loss 
of  her  port  on  the  Pacific  was  a  great  blow,  as 
there  is  no  way  of  reaching  the  Atlantic  without 
immense  difficulties.  A  series  of  falls  in  the  Ma- 
deira River  prevent  navigation.  Only  canoes 
manned  by  the  skilful  natives  can  shoot  them,  and 
they  do  so  at  tremendous  risk  and  frequent  loss 
of  life.  In  spite  of  this,  however,  many  cargoes 
were  carried,  and  even  the  children  were  sent  this 
way  to  reach  the  Amazon  and  the  Atlantic  on 
their  way  to  Europe  to  be  educated.    One  of  the 

wealthy  men,  Senor  J ,  had  eleven  sons.    Each 

was  splendidly  educated,  speaking  many  languages 
—  polished  and  cultivated  men.  To  get  their 
education,  however,  they  had  had  to  go  over  the 
falls,  or  else  make  the  long,  tedious  journey  over 
the  Andes  to  the  Pacific  and  thence  around  the 
Horn  to  get  to  Europe. 

Six  or  eight  years  ago  the  railroad  was  com- 
pleted at  Porto  Velho.     The  Bolivians  induced 


122  Below  the  Equator 

Brazil  borrowed  a  hundred  millions  in  gold  from 
many  miles  of  rubber  land  and  some  gold  mines. 
Brazil  borrowed  a  hundred  millions  in  gold  from 
Europe.  The  road  was  built,  and  once  more  an 
American  did  the  work.  His  name  was  Percival 
Forquahar.  He  built  it  after  the  engineering  plan 
adopted  by  those  who  were  building  the  Panama 
Canal,  and  he  thus  gave  to  Bolivia  the  full  use  of 
the  Amazon  —  an  inestimable  gift.  The  road  cir- 
cles the  falls  and  opens  up  a  fifty-thousand-mile 
traffic  to  the  Amazon  through  the  two  countries, 
Brazil  and  Bolivia.  The  road  runs  two  hundred  and 
ten  miles  and  Is  a  remarkable  piece  of  engineering, 
speeding  through  a  jungle  where  on  either  side 
are  trees  towering  a  hundred  feet,  among  which 
gorillas  and  monkeys  shriek  and  scream  as  the 
train  flies  by,  and  where  hideous  reptiles  thirty- 
eight  feet  long  are  often  found,  where  wild  ani- 
mals of  all  kinds  lurk,  and  where  the  foliage  from 
the  high  trees  often  makes  the  day  almost  dark. 
To  ride  on  this  road  in  a  perfectly  equipped  Pull- 
man sleeper  is  surely  an  experience.  Bolivia  now 
sends  straight  to  Europe  her  big  ships  laden  with 
gold,  tin,  and  her  various  other  rich  products. 
The  education  of  her  young  people  is  not  now  so 
difficult,  but  the  great  thing  which  struck  us  in 
South  America  was  that,  like  the  Inca  of  old.  If 
a  thing  had  to  be  done  It  was  done,  for  even 
before  the  building  of  this  road  they  had  not 


Bolivia  123 


hesitated  to  educate  their  children,  although  the 
means  were  difficult.  We  were  told  by  some 
friends  that  many  years  ago  when  they  were  in 
South  America  they  had  dined  in  a  bamboo  house 
in  the  wilderness,  served  by  six  slaves,  eaten  off 
of  Haviland  china,  and  drank  champagne  from 
long-stemmed,  gold-rimmed  glasses.  It  seemed 
incredible  that  such  a  feast  could  be  served  in  the 
jungle  of  the  Amazon  long  before  the  railroad  was 
built  I 


CHAPTER  XVII 

LA    PAZ 

BOLIVIA  Is  about  as  large  as  the  German  and 
Austrian  countries  combined,  but  has  a  popu- 
lation less  than  that  of  Denmark.  Four-fifths  of 
her  Inhabitants  are  seml-clvillzed  Indians.  There 
Is  very  little  Immigration,  so  the  Increase  In  popu- 
lation is  limited,  although  Bolivia  does  not  go 
backward  in  this  respect.  She  holds  her  own. 
They  have  a  delightful  society  among  the  few 
English  and  German  people  who  are  held  together 
both  by  social  and  political  ties. 

More  charming,  refined,  and  educated  people  I 
have  never  found  than  those  who  have  established 
themselves  in  La  Paz.  So  far  away  from  what 
we  consider  the  center  of  the  great  world,  there 
was  no  question,  even  the  latest  topic  of  interest, 
which  they  were  not  ready  to  discuss  intelligently. 
Xheir  newspapers  and  magazines  keep  them  In 
touch  with  everything.  We  attended  some  of 
their  perfectly  appointed  dinners  and  it  was  hard 
to  realize  how  remote  we  were  from  the  "hub" 
of  the  busy  world  outside. 

Our  first  view  of  the  wonderful  city  of  La  Paz 
124 


La  Paz  125 

quite  took  our  breath  away.  Its  beauty  was  star- 
tling. No  description  can  do  it  justice.  We  were 
running  through  rugged  mountains  at  an  elevation 
of  nearly  fourteen  thousand  feet  when  suddenly 
someone  told  us  to  look  below!  There,  a  thou- 
sand feet  or  more  beneath  us,  lying  In  a  perfect 
bowl  at  the  foot  of  the  mountain,  lay  this  beauti- 
ful city,  the  highest  in  the  world.  Ah,  the  splen- 
dor of  that  first  view  I  How  did  so  strange  a  site 
happen  to  be  chosen  for  a  city?  Here  in  the 
bleakest  spot  imaginable  it  lies  I  In  this  thin  air 
people  with  weak  hearts  and  narrow  chests  cannot 
live.  An  attack  of  pneumonia  is  fatal  unless  the 
patient  is  hurried  by  railroad  to  the  coast.  Pres- 
sure of  breathing  and  palpitation  of  the  heart  are 
common  symptoms  of  soroche,  as  are  violent  head- 
aches and  disturbances  of  the  digestive  organs 
also.  Some  are  more  sensitive  than  others  to  this 
illness,  and  it  would  have  been  as  easy  to  have 
established  this  city  on  the  other  side  of  the  moun- 
tains, at  a  lower  level,  where  the  valleys  are  fer- 
tile and  the  altitude  much  less.  La  Paz  is  in  the 
coldest  and  most  sterile  part  of  the  mountains. 
In  spite  of  Its  absence  of  verdure,  however,  it  is 
a  fascinating  spot.  It  has  rows  of  beautiful  euca- 
lyptus trees,  and  In  some  sheltered  nooks  of  the 
town  are  gardens  full  of  bamboo  and  flowering 
shrubs,  and  sometimes  beside  the  river  a  patch  of 
bright  green  alfalfa.   The  magnificent  snowy  mas? 


126  Below  the  Equator 

of  Illimani,  with  its  glorious  glaciers,  towers  above 
the  city,  forty  miles  away.  But  the  city  itself 
contains  all  modern  comforts  and  conveniences  and 
we  found  La  Paz  quite  up-to-date.  On  the  morning 
of  our  arrival  she  had  just  wired  our  country  that 
in  case  we  went  to  war  with  Germany  she  would 
stand  with  us.  The  whole  city  was  on  fire  with 
enthusiasm  because  of  this  fact,  and  we  were 
proud  that  our  ex-MInlster  Knowles  had  had  much 
to  do  with  influencing  the  country  to  take  this  step. 
We  all  went  to  the  "movies"  to  see  the  war  pic- 
tures. The  latter  were  excellent.  But  our  hearts 
were  sad  at  the  thought  that  after  all  these  years 
of  peace  between  America  and  Europe  we  might 
have  to  take  part  in  the  struggle. 

A  part  of  our  purpose  in  visiting  South  America 
was  to  obtain,  if  possible,  glimpses  of  the  home 
life  of  the  people.  Through  the  kindness  of  ex- 
Mlnister  Knowles  and  his  successor,  Minister 
O'Rear,  we  enjoyed  many  meetings  with  govern- 
ment officials  and  men  prominent  in  public  life. 
But  It  was  to  an  Englishman,  Mr.  Thompson,  and 
his  attractive  wife  that  we  were  indebted  for  a 
peep  at  the  real  life  of  the  home.  This  de- 
lighted us. 

Colonel  Knowles  sent  me  a  little  Indian  maid, 
a  member  of  his  own  household,  who  was  my 
bodyguard  during  the  week  we  spent  here.  Little 
Rosita  spoke  only  Spanish,  but  I  could  converse 


I'hoto   by    E.    M.    Newman 

La   Paz,   Bolivia 
Mt.  Illimani  in  the  background 


-^-K.-r9^W^I 

i 

^5^^— -Jiit^srs' 

--^m 

jliMrTr-''^™  My^s^^^a  n 

^^ 

^?^';>** 

— *  -               '. 

^-* 

'        .^' 

u 

IMioto  by   E.   M.    Newman 

A  Gathkring  of  Indians  in  La  Paz,  Bolivia 


Photo   by   E.    M.    Newman 

Balsa  Boat 

This   queer   craft   is   in   general   use   in    South 

America 


Photo    by    Carter    II.    Harrison 

Group  of  Indians  at  La   Paz 


La  Paz  127 

sufficiently  to  give  orders  and  understand  her 
replies.  She  was  the  most  perfect  specimen  of 
femininity  in  her  line  that  I  had  ever  seen,  and 
though  only  eleven  years  old  she  was  a  splendid 
little  maid.  When  I  left,  in  addition  to  crossing 
her  palm  freely,  I  presented  her  with  a  white- 
feathered  hat  (from  Chicago)  which  she  had  so 
envied  me.  I  thought  it  looked  utterly  ridiculous 
on  a  child  of  her  years  and  race,  but  her  mother 
assured  me  that  it  was  entirely  appropriate  for 
Sunday  use!  Comforted  by  this  assurance,  I 
thereupon  added  a  brilliant  green  parasol,  a  yel- 
low sweater,  and  some  white  gloves.  I  was  con- 
sumed with  regret  that  I  never  had  the  pleasure 
of  seeing  her  parading  in  all  this  paraphernalia ! 
Thousands  of  Indians  from  all  parts  of  the 
country  assemble  In  the  market  place  on  Sunday 
to  display  their  wares.  Fruits,  vegetables,  meats, 
flowers,  weavings,  laces,  linens  —  in  fact,  every 
piece  of  their  varied  industries  is  here  shown. 
Everything  Is  laid  out  upon  the  ground  and  they 
squat  back  behind  the  display.  The  women  usually 
have  their  babies  strapped  on  their  backs  or  else 
laid  beside  them  on  a  board.  The  red-skinned 
babies  have  sparkling  black  eyes  and  are  the  pret- 
tiest little  specimens  of  humanity!  The  scene  in 
the  market  place  covers  many  blocks.  A  solid 
stream  of  Indians  and  purchasers  passes  by,  and 
one  cannot  turn  and  go  back  because  he  is  solidly 


128  Below  the  Equator 

wedged  in.  Room  Is  made  only  to  stop  and  buy. 
The  whole  Is  kaleidoscopic,  a  perfect  panorama  of 
color,  the  men  wearing  brilliant  ponchos  of  the 
finest  weave,  and  the  women,  as  usual,  garbed  In 
every  color  of  the  rainbow.  Accompanying  us  on 
our  tour  walked  little  Roslta,  proudly  carrying  a 
basket  for  our  purchases. 

A  very  pretty  ceremony  is  the  changing  of  the 
president's  guard  every  few  hours.  This  is  always 
accompanied  by  the  playing  of  the  band.  The 
Bolivian  bands  are  famous  the  world  over.  We 
never  missed  a  chance  to  hear  one  and  we  were 
never  disappointed.  Just  opposite  the  hotel  where 
we  were  staying  was  a  beautiful  but  unfinished 
cathedral  which  has  been  slowly  building  for 
eighty  years.  It  Is  not  yet  roofed  In,  but  It  gives 
promise  of  great  things  when  complete. 

The  native  Indian  women  here  are  of  two 
classes  —  those  who  wear  shoes  and  those  who  do 
not  I  It  Is  interesting  to  note  the  dress  of  the  one 
who  claims  superiority  over  her  shoeless  neighbor. 
Her  picturesque  Indian  costume,  with  brilliantly 
colored  shawl,  or  poncho,  Is  always  scrupulously 
adjusted,  and  with  It  she  never  fails  to  wear  a 
high-crowned,  narrow-brimmed  hat.  These  hats 
have  the  narrowest  brims  I  have  ever  seen,  about 
a  quarter  of  an  Inch  wide.  This,  of  course,  accen- 
tuates the  height  of  the  crown.  But  this  enormous 
weight  of  poncho  and  remarkable  headgear  are  by 


La  Paz  129 

no  means  her  only  claims  to  fashion.  Far  from  it. 
When  she  walks  she  takes  little,  mincing  steps, 
because  —  she  wears  high  French  heels!  The 
ensemble  is  both  curious  and  amusing. 

La  Paz  contains  about  a  hundred  thousand 
people,  and  it  was  a  strange  sensation  to  be  at  the 
foot  of  lofty  ranges  and  yet  be  as  high  above  sea 
level  as  the  top  of  the  Rocky  Mountains.  All  the 
time  we  were  in  this  altitude  (about  thirteen  thou- 
sand feet)  we  were  conscious  of  a  great  malaise. 
We  were  never  entirely  free  from  a  touch  of 
soroche  in  the  form  of  headache  or  a  slight  nausea. 
I  certainly  thanked  Heaven  that  I  did  not  have  to 
live  here.  It  seems  to  me  an  impossible  place  In 
which  to  live  and  feel  well.  Here,  as  everywhere 
else,  the  Indian  is  never  without  his  bag  of  coca 
leaves,  which  he  chews  continually  with  a  little 
clay  while  walking  or  working,  finding  In  them  the 
support  which  enables  him  to  endure  fatigue  with- 
out food  for  a  long  period. 


CHAPTER  XVIII 

ARICA 

WHILE  we  were  in  La  Paz  we  heard  many 
interesting  stories  and  legends  of  the  In- 
dians. They  claim  that  in  the  Andean  interior 
many  of  the  old  customs  still  prevail.  One  made 
us  think  of  Russian  rule,  or  the  law  of  the  lord 
of  the  manor.  Here  the  story  is  that  when  a 
youth  and  maiden  are  married  the  tribe  gather 
together  to  witness  the  festivities  and  then  insist 
that  immediately  after  the  ceremony  the  groom 
leave  his  bride  and  go  away  somewhere  to  work 
for  three  or  four  years,  leaving  her  in  charge  of 
the  best  man.  At  the  end  of  his  probation  he 
has  to  prove  himself  worthy  of  the  maiden  he 
wed.  He  has  kept  a  record  of  what  he  accom- 
plished, and  if  it  is  a  good  record  he  comes 
back  and  claims  his  bride.  Meanwhile  the  best 
man  shows  him  that  he  too  has  not  been  idle. 
With  his  bride  he  usually  turns  over  two  or  three 
sturdy  children. 

One  never  forgets  that  La  Paz  is  really  an 
Indian  city  and  has  probably  the  largest  Indian 
population  of  any  South  American  city.    Like  all 

130 


Arica  131 

people  who  occupy  extremely  cold  countries,  they 
are  very  cheerful  and  happy  in  their  dispositions. 
The  wind  must  be  carefully  tempered  for  them. 
One  would  suppose  that  the  terrible  trials  which 
they  are  obliged  to  overcome  in  their  daily  strug- 
gle for  food  would  engender  an  irritable  disposi- 
tion. But,  like  the  Icelander  and  the  Laplander, 
the  Bolivian  Indian  is  good-natured.  As  a  queer 
contrast,  one  meets  the  sullen,  vindictive  Indian 
in  the  southern  climate,  where  one  would  think 
that  the  flowers,  the  vegetation,  and  the  eternal 
sunshine  would  keep  him  perpetually  good- 
humored.  I  cannot  dwell  too  largely  upon  the 
penetrating  chill  in  these  countries  where  one 
never  sees  an  open  fire  or  heat  of  any  kind. 
Lately  in  Lima  and  La  Paz  the  idle  rich  have 
decided  that  they  must  have  some  heat  in  their 
houses,  and  a  most  acceptable  Christmas  present 
was  a  tiny  stove  about  twice  as  large  as  those  used 
by  the  ladies  for  curling  their  hair.  Three  or  four 
of  these  were  used  by  the  American  minister, 
Governor  McMillin,  in  his  home  in  Lima.  It 
was  amusing  to  see  these  small  warmers  —  less 
than  a  foot  in  length  by  half  a  foot  wide — being 
carried  from  room  to  room  to  give  a  little  warmth 
and  take  off  the  chill  of  the  air.  However,  they 
did  generate  considerable  heat,  and  after  an  hour's 
use  changed  the  atmosphere  very  much.  In  La 
Paz  we  had  a  faint  understanding  of  why  coal  is 


132  Below  the  Equator 

not  a  common  article.  At  the  time  we  were  there 
it  was  sixty  dollars  a  ton,  and  frequently  it  runs 
higher  than  that.  To  try  to  keep  warm  by  using 
it  is  quite  beyond  the  means  of  the  average  man. 

The  city  was  filled  with  Boy  Scouts  from  Peru. 
We  had  felt  quite  a  personal  interest  in  them  as 
they  had  come  down  the  Pacific  with  us  on  the 
steamer.  To  meet  them  again,  with  bands  of 
music  and  a  fine-looking  lot  of  Girl  Scouts  from 
Bolivia,  was  like  greeting  old  friends.  A  party 
of  distinguished  looking  men,  wearing  silk  hats 
and  carrying  canes,  accompanied  them  on  this  day. 
In  fact,  the  president  of  Bolivia  marched  with 
them  past  our  hotel.  The  enthusiasm  was,  of 
course,  tremendous.  Both  the  Boy  and  the  Girl 
Scouts  were  a  fine  looking  lot  of  young  people. 

There  are  no  theaters  in  La  Paz.  We  wondered 
at  this  until  the  explanation  was  given  that  sing- 
ers and  actors  cannot  remain  here  long  enough  to 
be  able  to  use  their  breath  for  speaking  or  singing. 
This  is  a  great  drawback  toward  amusement  in 
the  evening,  but  the  people  who  live  there  make 
up  by  afternoon  sports  for  the  loss  of  those  pleas- 
ures. They  play  tennis  and  enjoy  It  at  a  height  of 
eighteen  thousand  feet. 

Of  course,  people  living  in  these  high  altitudes 
must  be  as  careful  of  their  descent  to  the  sea  level 
as  the  dweller  in  lower  levels  is  in  his  ascent  to 
the  heights.    La  Paz  is  often  referred  to  as  the 


Arica  133 

most  inaccessible  city  in  the  world.  On  this 
account  it  has  been  compared  to  the  city  of  Tibet 
in  China.  But  it  fell  to  an  Englishman  who  was 
employed  by  the  Bolivian  government  to  make 
it  one  of  the  best  built  and  most  sanitary  cities 
in  the  whole  of  South  America  and  to  put  it  in 
touch  with  the  outside  world  as  well.  Like  all 
cities  of  high  altitudes,  it  would  be  a  fine  residence 
for  our  prohibitionists.  Wine  is  not  prohibited 
here,  but  one  cannot  drink  it  with  safety.  Though 
seldom  great  wine  drinkers  themselves,  those  who 
have  been  brought  up  in  French  cities  —  as  I  was 
—  and  are  accustomed  to  seeing  the  daily  claret 
even  at  breakfast,  have  a  homelike  feeling  when 
they  see  wine  served  in  southern  cities.  The  wine 
served  is  always  a  light  wine,  is  drunk  as  freely 
as  water,  and  is  a  custom  never  abused.  We  never 
saw  a  man  intoxicated.  Above  eight  thousand 
feet,  however,  wine  or  any  stimulant,  except  tea 
or  coffee,  is  considered  harmful  We  were  sorry 
to  leave  La  Paz,  but  in  it  our  soroche  was  always 
present,  and  the  last  night  we  were  there  we  heard 
so  much  of  the  unfortunate  people  who  had  come 
up  to  this  altitude  lively  and  happy  and  had  been 
carried  down  still  and  quiet  I  A  personal  friend 
of  Colonel  Knowles  had  died  the  night  he  reached 
La  Paz. 

On  all  the  trains,  tanks  of  oxygen  are  carried, 
so  that  those  who  need  it  may  have  it  at  once. 


134  Below  the  Equator 

The  women,  that  is,  the  natives,  always  carry  a 
bottle  of  ether  which  they  smell  constantly.  It 
permeates  the  car  and  makes  it  very  disagreeable 
for  those  not  accustomed  to  it.  This  ether  habit 
was  so  objectionable  to  us  and  rendered  us  so 
uncomfortable  that  whenever  we  could  get  an 
apartment  to  ourselves  and  shut  off  the  sickening- 
sweet  odor  of  that  anaesthetic  we  always  did  so. 
After  being  regaled  with  the  pleasant  tales  we  had 
heard  of  the  deaths  in  this  high  altitude,  and  with 
our  personal  knowledge  of  what  we  had  seen,  we 
felt  that  one  week  in  the  highest  city  in  the  world 
was  quite  enough  for  those  who  had  lived 
nearer  sea  level  in  Chicago.  Therefore  we  were 
not  sorry  when  our  train  pulled  out  for  another 
city. 

Here  we  took  leave  of  Dr.  Wilson  and  Mrs. 
Wilson  and  their  daughter,  with  whom  we  had 
traveled  since  leaving  Cuba.  They  were  making 
the  trip  only  as  far  as  La  Paz.  At  the  Isthmus, 
Miss  Wilson,  a  most  attractive  girl,  had  counted 
among  her  ardent  admirers  the  English  consul, 
Mr.  Murray.  As  she  had  been  in  receipt  of  many 
letters  and  cables  during  the  two  months  we  were 
together,  we  were  not  surprised  to  learn  recently 
that  they  had  been  married.  Thus  we  were  not 
without  our  romance  on  the  trip ! 

We  next  went  to  Arica,  in  Chile,  where  we  were 
to  await  the  steamer  which  would  take  us  to  Val- 


Arica  135 

paraiso.  The  sleeping-car  accommodations  of  this 
road  are  hardly  those  of  the  luxurious  Pullmans 
of  our  own  country.  The  grade  of  the  road  is 
very  steep,  so  much  so  that  it  looked  dangerous. 
We  seemed  to  be  riding  on  the  rocks  and  almost 
had  the  life  shaken  out  of  us.  The  scenery  was 
magnificent,  it  is  true,  but  we  were  too  uncom- 
fortable to  enjoy  it.  Our  discomfort  was,  of 
course,  heightened  by  the  altitude,  which  during  the 
whole  of  that  ride  was  fourteen  thousand  feet. 
The  train  was  a  narrow-gauge  one  and  we 
were  often  put  on  racks  to  keep  us  from  going 
down  the  steep  grades  too  rapidly.  With  head- 
ache and  nausea  we  could  not  enjoy  the  splendid 
view.  What  a  dreadful  thing  soroche  is !  I  trust 
that  from  this  day  forth  whenever  my  lord  and 
master  takes  a  notion  to  travel  and  wishes  me  to 
go  along  he  may  select  a  route  on  a  lower  level, 
say,  ten  or  twelve  thousand  feet! 

Our  "luxurious"  compartment  car  furnished 
not  even  a  drop  of  water  with  which  to  make  tea 
the  next  morning.  Nothing  to  eat  and  nothing 
to  drink  until  two  o'clock,  when  a  diner  was  put 
on.  I  had  carried  a  little  alcohol  stove  and  had 
my  own  tea.  It  never  once  occurred  to  me  that 
I  should  not  be  able  to  get  water.  My  husband 
had  a  pint  bottle  of  ApoUinaris  left  over  from 
dinner  the  night  before.  I  tried  that  to  make  my 
tea,  but — a  viler  drink  I  never  tasted  in  all  my 


136  Below  the  Equator 

life  I  We  forced  it  down,  thinking  it  better  than 
nothing. 

Running  across  the  colored  desert  we  could  see 
faintly  in  the  far  distance  the  blue  Pacific  again. 
Then  suddenly  at  a  turn  we  dropped  rapidly  to 
sea  level  and  beautiful  Arica.  This  city  is  one 
of  the  seaports  of  Chile  and  is  the  oasis  of  that 
desert  coast.  The  great  rock  overlooking  the  town 
has  a  fine  fortress.  It  commemorates  the  tragic 
death  of  that  splendid  Peruvian,  Colonel  Bolo- 
gnesi,  and  of  his  brave  flag-bearer.  Rather  than 
surrender  his  flag,  the  young  man  leaped  on  horse- 
back, flag  in  hand,  into  the  blue  waters  of  the 
Pacific. 

Arica  is  full  of  green  trees  and  other  verdure. 
Its  plaza  is  charming,  its  people  beautifully 
dressed  and  agreeable.  We  sat  in  the  brilliant 
starlight  listening  to  the  music  and  watching  the 
young  people,  who  were  decidedly  flirtatious.  It 
was  carnival  time.  Gorgeous  costumes,  many 
maskers,  all  gay  and  brilliant,  thronged  the 
streets.  Some  rode  around  the  plaza  in  carriages 
or  motors.  Most  of  them  walked,  however. 
Confetti  and  paper  ribbons  were  plentiful.  Fire- 
crackers and  laughter  made  the  scene  very  festive. 
Here,  also,  because  of  the  earthquakes,  the  houses 
are  one-storied.  On  the  steamer  just  before  we 
reached  Arica  we  had  felt  one  hard  rap  at  sea, 
but  I  am  ashamed  to  say  that  we  did  not  reco^- 


Arica  137 

nize  it.  We  heard  the  tremendous  bump,  as 
though  the  boat  had  struck  a  rock.  It  shivered 
and  quivered,  but  realizing  that  we  were  too  far 
from  shore  to  encounter  a  rock,  we  thought  it  just 
the  shifting  of  the  iron  cargo  which  the  peons 
often  handled  very  roughly.  Often  an  earthquake 
at  sea  is  accompanied  by  a  high  wave.  Once  a 
wave  sixty  feet  high  carried  houses  in  Arica  a  mile 
inland,  taking  a  ship  with  it,  and  the  latter  became 
the  home  of  some  Indian  families  until  the  next 
earthquake,  when  a  similar  wave  carried  it  back 
to  ocean  without  hurting  the  occupants.  However, 
our  earthquake  treated  us  to  no  such  thriUing 
experience. 

The  great  Morro  Rock  towers  over  the  town. 
It  rises  abruptly  from  the  sea,  perhaps  twelve 
hundred  feet  in  its  sheer  height,  and  stands  alone, 
like  a  guardian  of  the  town,  which  it  really  is. 
The  rest  of  the  city  is  very  flat,  and  hidden  among 
the  pretty  green  trees.  There  is  a  military  post 
on  the  rocks,  and  strangers  are  not  admitted.  The 
Peruvians  have  never  been  reconciled  to  the  loss 
of  Arica,  and  Chile  did  not  cover  herself  with 
glory  in  her  manner  of  taking  it.  She  promised 
faithfully  that  at  the  end  of  a  certain  time  she 
would  give  Arica  the  choice  as  to  which  country 
she  should  belong  to.  It  was  to  be  decided  by 
popular  vote  whether  she  should  stay  with  Chile 
or  return  to  Peru.    The  time  came  and  went,  but 


138  Below  the  Equator 

beautiful  Arica  with  all  her  fertility  and  green 
loveliness  In  this  heart  of  the  desert  coast  still 
belongs  to  Chile.  It  Is  claimed  that  when  the  vote 
was  to  be  taken  Chile  slyly  sent  so  many  people 
to  ArIca,  acting  In  various  departments  for  the 
government,  that  the  Chileans  were  greatly  In  the 
majority.  Consequently,  they  overwhelmed  the 
Peruvians  in  number.  The  chances  are  that  Peru 
will  never  again  be  able  to  regain  her  charmhig 
little  city.  They  say  that  all  who  visit  ArIca  fall 
in  love  with  her.  We  certainly  did.  Twice  we 
were  there,  and,  oh,  how  we  hope  to  go  again! 
From  the  roof  of  our  hotel  (over  a  beer  saloon, 
but  with  the  most  palatable  meals  possible  to  find) 
we  could  see  hundreds  of  miles  Into  clear  crystal 
air.  Five  snow-clad  mountains,  glorious  ones,  met 
our  gaze!  Before  us  lay  two  ranges;  the  first 
began  at  sea  level,  the  second  was  a  long  way  off. 
Then,  towering  over  them  all  were  five  white- 
crowned  kings  —  the  wonderful  Andes !  We  were 
living  in  their  midst,  yet  each  time  we  saw  them 
we  were  thrilled  anew.  Nothing  can  exaggerate 
their  splendid  dignity,  and  as  often  as  we  watched 
them  we  never  lost  that  sense  of  awe  that  their 
glory  brought  to  us. 


CHAPTER  XIX 

TACNA 

1%  WAS  at  Arica  that  we  ate  the  finest  fruit  we 
saw  anywhere  in  South  America  —  the  chiri- 
moyas.  We  ate  many  strange  and  delectable  things 
in  this  far-away  land,  but  nothing  which  so  pleased 
us  as  this.  No  description  can  do  them  justice. 
They  are  called  custard  apples.  It  Is  impossible 
to  exaggerate  their  delicious  taste. 

Because  of  the  presence  of  soldiers  and  offi- 
cers, Arica  is  military  In  character.  It  was  Inter- 
esting to  hear  the  military  mass  and  to  see  the 
officers  in  their  glittering  uniforms  and  with  drawn 
swords.  This  city  is  a  sacred  spot  to  the  Peru- 
vians. Aside  from  Its  natural  beauties.  It  was  the 
scene  of  that  brilliant  fight  In  which,  although  the 
Peruvians  lost,  they  covered  themselves  with 
glory.  The  harbor  Is  one  of  the  best  on  the 
coast,  and  Arica  has  the  appearance  of  a  thriving 
little  town.  They  say  that  PIzarro  here  built  some 
ships  for  the  Invasion  of  Chile,  and  on  the  broad 
beach  there  was  a  prehistoric  cemetery  with  some 
embalmed  mummies  said  to  be  equal  to  those  of 
Egypt.   They  were  remarkable  for  the  rich  amber 

139 


140  Below  the  Equator 

tints  of  the  eyes,  which  scientists  say  are  made 
from  cuttlefish,  which  is  very  abundant  in  these 
waters.  The  story  is  told  by  some  writer  that 
when  those  eyes  were  sent  to  New  York  to  be 
polished  the  workmen  were  affected  with  violent 
irritation  of  the  eyes,  lips,  nostrils,  and  throat. 
All  of  them  recovered,  but  the  work  was  not 
resumed.  In  the  analysis  it  was  shown  that  many 
unknown  minerals  mixed  with  nitrate  had  been 
used. 

Forty  miles  away  is  a  beautiful  little  city  called 
Tacna.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  province  and  a 
great  resort  for  the  people  from  Arica.  Tacna 
has  a  beautiful  mountain  view.  Between  the  two 
cities  lies  a  desert,  and  the  latter  is  often  the  scene 
of  wonderful  mirages.  There  is  an  ancient  rail- 
road here,  built  by  the  Incas  to  connect  Tacna  and 
La  Paz.  It  will  be  remembered  that  in  the  olden 
days  it  was  said  that  the  Incas  living  inland  were 
able  to  have  fresh  fish  every  morning  for  their 
breakfast  if  they  so  desired.  This  was  provided 
by  a  series  of  runners.  They  were  so  fleet  of  foot 
that  many  miles  were  covered  during  one  day's 
run.  Fresh  men  were  stationed  at  intervals,  a 
few  miles  apart,  who  snatched  the  package  and 
started  with  it  before  the  previous  bearer  had 
stopped.  Almost  incredible  distances  were  thus 
covered  in  a  short  space  of  time.  We  were  con- 
stantly shown  the  remains  of  these  footpaths  in 


Tacna 141 

our  travels.  They  were  from  one  to  three  feet 
wide,  just  enough  for  a  man  to  run  upon  comfort- 
ably without  stumbling. 

One  gets  a  superb  view  of  the  mountains  from 
lovely  Tacna.  There  are  about  ten  of  them  to  be 
seen  running  from  sixteen  to  twenty-two  thousand 
feet.  Probably  nowhere  else  in  the  world  can 
such  peaks  be  seerl,  unless  perhaps  In  Bolivia.  The 
conditions  for  seeing  the  mountains  at  Tacna  are 
nearly  always  perfect.  The  air  Is  very  clear.  In 
Arica  we  found  a  beautiful  fruit  market  —  many 
different  varieties  of  fruit  and  all  good.  The  fruit 
of  the  passion  flower,  and  an  equally  choice  one 
called  zapote,  are  fine.  The  latter  is  taken  from 
the  tree  which  produces  the  chicle  gum. 

At  ArIca  we  saw  a  faithful  but  horrid  bird 
called  the  gaUinaza,  It  is  the  scavenger  of  the 
tropics.  These  birds  are  anything  but  attractive, 
I  assure  you,  but  they  are  distinctly  sociable  in 
the  way  they  flock  about  yards  and  harbors.  Even 
on  shipboard  we  occasionally  saw  one  on  the  mast. 
They  say  that  the  people  down  there  hold  them 
sacred.  At  any  rate  they  are  protected  by  law, 
and  they  certainly  guard  the  health  of  the  natives. 
Wherever  anything  is  dead  they  are  to  be  found 
in  flocks,  and,  indeed,  before  the  animal  dies  their 
remarkable  scent  seems  to  give  them  warning  of 
approaching  death.  They  may  be  seen  circling 
in  the  air,  hovering  over  the  desired  object  until 


142  Below  the  Equator 

all  movement  ceases.  We  were  told  much  about 
this  important  bird  of  the  tropics.  One  humorous 
native  told  us  that  the  educated  people  regard 
him  as  the  only  honest  public  official  they  possess  I 

From  Arica  we  took  an  English  ship  for  Val- 
paraiso. Coquimbo,  Iquique,  Antofagasta  — 
each  was  visited,  as  were  also  the  great  nitrate 
fields  of  Chile.  Antofagasta  lies  flat  against  the 
arid  hills  and  mountains.  She  does  not  look 
attractive  but  is  larger  than  Iquique.  A  large 
smelting  plant  for  copper  looked  quite  prosperous 
in  the  distance,  but  on  close  investigation  it  was 
found  to  be  abandoned.  It  is  said  to  have  been 
filled  with  superb  equipment,  fine  machinery,  etc., 
but  it  was  deserted.  The  men  decided  not  to  work 
any  more  and  so  it  stands  idle.  A  queer  country 
this! 

Antofagasta  is  noted  for  its  quantities  of  seals, 
but  we  saw  only  a  few.  We  did  see,  however,  an 
enormous  number  of  the  grampus,  or  blackfish. 
The  captain  said  that  they  are  about  eighteen  or 
twenty  feet  long.  They  look  large  from  a  dis- 
tance. The  gulls  are  especially  beautiful  here  and 
thousands  of  them  gather.  They  are  a  beautiful 
soft  brown  or  gray,  with  white  heads  and  snow- 
white  breasts.  With  wonderful  swiftness  they 
pounce  down  upon  the  silver  fish  that  swim  by 
the  steamer.  They  are  unusually  large  here  and 
their  wings  when  spread  are  enormous  from  tip  to 


Tacna  143 

tip.  Two  whole  days  we  spent  in  this  spot,  and 
it  was  while  we  stopped  here  that  we  met  a  charm- 
ing couple  from  New  York,  Mr.  and  Mrs.  James 
Blaine.  He  was  a  cousin  of  James  G.  Blaine  and 
his  wife  was  the  great-niece  of  Stonewall  Jackson. 
Like  all  southerners,  she  had  a  lovely  voice,  and 
was  very  beautiful.  He  was  a  business  man  of 
unusual  ability  and  equally  attractive.  Later  on 
we  became  quite  good  friends,  traveling  together 
for  about  a  month.  We  spent  many  happy  hours 
in  one  another's  society. 


CHAPTER  XX 

THE  CROSS  ON  THE  MOUNTAIN 

IT  IS  a  curious  fact  that  the  greatest  wealth  of 
South  America  is  produced  by  its  lifeless  west- 
ern coast.  From  the  standpoint  of  the  tourist 
there  is  a  deep  fascination  about  it.  One  realizes 
that  death  is  lurking  here,  stalking  about  searching 
for  inhabitants  for  its  already  well-filled  grave- 
yards. In  fact,  death  is  about  the  liveliest  of  all 
the  personalities  on  the  Pacific  coast  of  South 
America  I  All  the  way  down  its  long  length  one 
thing  stands  out  grimly  conspicuous  —  the  ceme- 
tery. Its  crosses  are  the  first  things  seen  on 
approaching  a  town  or  village  and  usually  the 
cemetery  is  much  better  filled  than  the  town  itself. 
In  the  development  of  this  country,  death  is  a 
foremost  factor,  always  a  big  member  of  the  com- 
munity. His  percentage  of  life  taken,  somehow 
looms  up  more  prominently  before  the  casual 
visitor  than  do  the  accounts  of  gold  found,  or 
money  earned.  In  all  the  towns  along  the  coast 
the  center  of  interest  is  the  cemetery.  There  the 
cross  is  always  prominent,  emblematic  of  that  suf- 
fering Christ  who  immortalized  us  all.    High  on 

144 


The  Cross  on  the  Mountain         145 

a  barren  hill  it  stands  solemn  and  sacred,  marking 
perhaps  a  pilgrimage  made  by  the  devout.  On 
the  top  of  the  bleakest  mountain  one  sees  it  as  well 
as  on  the  thatched  roof  of  the  hut  of  the  Cholo 
Indian  in  Peru  and  Bolivia.  On  the  Chilean 
slopes  it  is  always  appearing.  The  constant  sight 
of  the  cross  is  a  reminder  that  this  is  a  Catholic 
country,  that  the  people  are  a  religious  com- 
munity. But  it  is  also  the  emblem  of  death  — 
death  with  a  resurrection,  of  course.  To  the 
Christian  the  cross  means  that.  But  it  always 
means  death  first,  and  on  this  desolate  coast  death 
counts  for  so  little.  In  this  waterless  district  only 
the  rugged  survive,  and  when  one  falls,  a  dozen, 
it  seems,  are  ready  to  fill  his  place.  Splendid, 
stalwart,  courageous  youth  copes  against  frightful 
odds  on  this  arid  coast.  Fever,  plague,  enteric 
troubles,  heart  failure  —  all  combine  to  kill  his 
chances  for  success.  .  The  cry  seems  to  be  always, 
"  Make  room  for  the  next! "  If  one  is  cut  down 
in  his  youth  no  one  has  time  to  mourn.  The  man 
who  fails  is  never  spoken  of.  Here,  as  elsewhere, 
it  is  only  success  that  counts. 

In  this  western  part  of  South  America  one 
shivers  and  trembles.  With  all  her  beauty  of  land 
and  sea,  of  air,  sunshine,  and  climate,  with  all  the 
wealth  of  her  mines  of  silver  and  gold  and  her 
rich  fields  of  nitrate,  who  would  wish  to  claim  her 
as  his  own  country?    Too  many  heartbreaks  lie 


146  Below  the  Equator 

in  the  road  to  success.  Too  many  graves  serve  as 
mileposts  in  that  search  for  gold.  The  lure  of 
the  country  is  powerful,  her  charm  undisputed. 
But  he  who  courts  must  also  fear  her !  Let  him 
approach  her  cautiously,  for,  until  her  fierceness  is 
subdued,  until  her  death-dealing  diseases  shall  be 
conquered  by  cleanliness  and  sanitation,  she  is 
terrible  in  spite  of  her  beauty.  Some  day,  how- 
ever, all  this  will  be  a  thing  of  the  past.  She  will 
be  conquered,  tamed.  Then  human  life  will  count 
with  her.  Youth  will  be  her  fairest  jewel.  When 
this  time  comes,  smiling  in  health  and  prosperity, 
South  America  will  stand  out  before  an  admiring 
world,  glorious  and  invincible ! 

Antofagasta  is  well  paved  and  has  nice  build- 
ings. Two  cases  of  bubonic  plague,  however,  kept 
us  from  desiring  to  linger.  We  had  a  beautiful 
sunset  and  the  night  was  exquisite,  a  soft  haze 
enveloping  the  horizon  and  the  stars  glittering 
through  it.  The  ocean  was  so  blue  and  the  moun- 
tains deep  rose.  When  the  myriads  of  lights 
twinkled  in  the  city  after  dark  it  looked  like  fairy- 
land. But  that  awful  cemetery !  It  seemed  larger 
here  than  elsewhere.  It  was  so  ghastly,  and  I 
was  glad  when  the  night  had  fallen  to  hide  it. 

As  usual,  we  sat  up  late  watching  the  blue  tap- 
estry of  the  sky  as  it  gradually  became  embroid- 
ered with  sparkling  stars.  We  saw  again  "our'* 
three  crosses  appear  one  by  one  —  first  the  pretty 


The  Cross  on  the  Mountain         147 

False  Cross,  then  the  beautiful  Astral  Triangle, 
and  at  last,  and  most  important,  the  Southern 
Cross.  Splendid  as  was  the  sight  of  the  heavens, 
the  ocean  was  scarcely  less  brilliant.  The  Pacific 
was  alive  with  phosphorus.  Small  boats  hovering 
about  the  steamer  appeared  to  be  gliding  about  in 
fire  and  flame.  Long  we  sat  watching  all  this  bril- 
liance—  a  strange  and  enchanting  sight.  Each 
wave,  as  it  broke  against  the  boat,  sent  up  millions 
of  sparks.  All  day  we  had  seen  large  jelly-fish  in 
the  waters,  some  larger  than  dinner  plates,  and 
when  darkness  closed  down  suddenly  upon  us,  as 
it  always  does  in  the  tropics  (there  is  no  twilight 
there),  we  were  partly  prepared  to  see  this  won- 
derful night. 


CHAPTER  XXI 

THE  NITRATE  FIELDS 

VAST  as  are  the  nitrate  fields  in  Chile,  there 
are  many  which  have  never  yet  been  ex- 
plored. Between  the  nitrate  fields  and  the  sea  is 
the  largest  strip  of  wholly  unprofitable  desert  to 
be  found  anywhere  in  South  America.  Even  in 
its  barrenness  and  Its  brownness,  however,  it  has 
a  charm  in  the  morning  and  evening  lights.  Deli- 
cate tints  come  out  on  the  distant  slopes.  The 
nitrate  fields  are  barren  and  dry — not  a  shrub 
or  a  blade  of  grass  —  a  region  of  low,  stony  hills, 
an  absolute  desert.  Everywhere  the  men  are 
working,  breaking  the  ground  and  loading  the 
wagons,  for  the  fields  seem  inexhaustible.  As  long 
as  they  last  they  will  be  of  immense  profit  to  their 
owners. 

It  is  said  that  the  guano  deposits  of  Peru  have 
proved  her  undoing  in  more  ways  than  one.  They 
excite  the  cupidity  of  adventurers  and  often  cause 
revolutions.  We  wondered  whether  the  nitrate 
fields  of  Chile  would  ever  experience  the  same 
troubles.  Rivalry  between  contractors  Is  already 
a  source  of  dissension.     Chile  made  us  think  not 

148 


The  Nitrate  Fields  149 

a  little  of  Egypt.  Although  the  coast  is  desolate, 
inland  she  is  one  of  the  richest  countries  in  the 
world.  Along  the  Nile  the  opposite  is  true. 
There  a  green  ribbon  of  fertility  stretches  many 
miles,  while  inland  it  is  barren  and  dry.  The  con- 
trast was  interesting.  Lucky  for  Chile  that  her 
coast  is  rainless,  else  long  ago  the  precious  mineral 
would  have  been  swept  with  her  soil  out  to  sea. 
Chile  shares  with  many  of  the  countries  of 
South  America  the  reputation  of  having  large 
estates,  and  she  possesses  a  stimulating  atmos- 
phere which  makes  her  people  more  hardy  than 
the  Peruvians.  They  are  very  fond  of  horse  rac- 
ing, and,  unlike  Peru,  she  has  never  had  any  revo- 
lutions. Indeed,  Chile  is  the  only  country  in  South 
America  which  can  boast  of  never  having  had  a 
revolution  within  the  memory  of  living  man.  It 
is  a  curiously  shaped  country.  Like  a  long, 
slender  serpent  it  lies,  three  thousand  miles  along 
the  Pacific  coast,  and  its  widest  part  is  but  a  hun- 
dred and  twenty-five  miles.  It  is  divided  by  the 
coast  range  in  the  west  and  the  Andes  in  the  east, 
and  from  one  of  its  large  cities,  Santiago,  both 
ranges  may  be  seen.  The  southern  portion  is 
thickly  wooded;  it  has  a  wonderful  lake  region 
and  is  subject  to  heavy  rainfall.  The  northern 
part  is  hot  and  dry.  The  southern  portion  is  very 
cold.  In  Santiago  one  may  have  summer  in  the 
morning  and  winter  in  the  afternon  by  climbing 


150  Below  the  Equator 

the  mountains.  While  her  nitrate  fields  are  Chile's 
greatest  possessions,  she  is  rich  In  many  other 
things.    She  has  wonderful  mines  of  copper. 

After  the  conquest  of  Peru,  Chile  was  invaded 
by  the  Europeans.  Diego  de  Almagro  heard  of 
this  wonderful  country ;  that  it  was  richer  in  gold 
and  silver  even  than  the  one  he  had  just  con- 
quered. Gaining  permission  from  Charles  V,  in 
1535,  he  took  an  army  of  Spaniards  and  some 
Indian  captives,  crossed  over  the  Bolivian  heights 
and  attempted  to  take  possession  of  the  unknown 
country.  Hunger  and  cold,  and  the  treacherous 
mountain  sickness,  soroche^  caused  his  expedition 
to  fail,  and  when  he  returned  to  Ciizco  the  perfid- 
ious Pizarro  had  him  beheaded.  This  ended  for 
a  time  any  attempt  to  get  into  Chile.  But  a  second 
expedition,  conducted  by  Pedro  de  Valdivia,  was 
successful,  and  in  1540  they  founded  the  new  city, 
Santiago.  The  natives  resented  the  intrusion  of 
the  Spaniards.  These  natives  were  Araucanians, 
the  bravest  and  best  fighters  In  all  the  southern 
country.  There  followed  a  long  hard  struggle 
for  two  hundred  and  fifty  years.  In  18 10  Spain 
sent  out  an  army  to  put  to  rout  the  Spanish-Irish- 
man, Bernardo  O'HIggins,  who  was  fighting  for 
the  freedom  of  his  adopted  country.  He  joined 
General  San  Martin  In  his  struggle  to  expel  the 
Spaniards  from  the  entire  continent.  After  three 
years  of  fighting  they  finally  accomplished  this. 


The  Nitrate  Fields  151 

'he  grateful  Chileans  offered  San  Martin  the 
governorship  of  their  country,  but  this  unselfish 
patriot  declined  the  honor  and  in  a  public  assembly 
named  O'HIggins  dictator. 

Chile's  troubles  did  not  end  here,  however. 
Peru  was  jealous  and  sent  General  Osorio  again 
to  fight  Chile.  He  defeated  O'HIggins,  but  when 
he  attacked  San  Martin  he  was  unsuccessful.  This 
time  the  Act  of  Independence  was  read  in  the 
plaza  of  Santiago,  an  oath  taken  by  all  the  leaders, 
and  Chile  has  always  had  a  kindly  feeling  for  the 
United  States  since  then,  because  she  was  the  first 
nation  to  recognize  the  young  republic.  In  1823 
General  O'HIggins  resigned  his  dictatorship  and 
a  period  of  great  confusion  followed.  In  fact, 
Peru,  Bolivia,  and  Chile  were  constantly  at  war 
until  1883,  when  a  treaty  of  peace  was  signed.  At 
this  time  the  boundary  line  was  arranged  between 
Chile  and  Argentina,  a  country  with  which  Chile 
was  always  on  the  verge  of  war.  In  1 8  8 6,  Balma- 
ceda  was  elected  president.  He  instituted  a  great 
many  reforms,  but  was  exceedingly  arbitrary  in  his 
methods.  He  brought  about  a  civil  war,  and,  de- 
pressed and  downcast  over  the  failure  of  his 
efforts  to  bring  about  a  happy  state  of  affairs,  he 
finally  committed  suicide. 


CHAPTER  XXII 


THE  ''tin  king" 


COQUIMBO  was  a  pretty  looking  town,  but 
as  we  were  not  permitted  sufficient  time  to 
ride  out  to  beautiful  La  Serena  we  did  not  get  off 
the  boat.  It  is  at  La  Serena  that  the  most  famous 
canaries,  the  best  songsters,  are  to  be  found. 
These  pretty  yellow-feathered  creatures  were 
brought  on  the  steamer  in  quantities  and  from  this 
time  on  we  had  their  joyous  little  morning  songs 
to  awaken  us.  The  sharp,  jagged  rocky  islands 
in  this  harbor  make  it  very  picturesque.  The 
islands  are  small,  but  covered  with  snow-white 
guano  they  look  very  pretty. 

A  young  Peruvian,  the  nephew  of  Peru's  presi- 
dent, was  aboard.  He  spoke  many  languages  and 
bought  many  of  the  canaries.  His  personal  card 
carried  his  mother's  last  name,  a  curious  custom 
in  all  Spanish  countries.  The  days  on  the  Pacific 
were  glorious.  Now  that  we  were  out  of  the  fog  belt 
the  mornings  broke  clear  as  crystal.  A  fine  breeze 
kept  up  all  day.  One  might  think  a  day  on  a  steamer 
uninteresting,  but  it  is  never  so  on  the  Pacific.  There 
is  always  something  of  interest  to  see. 

152 


The  ''  Tin  King  '' 153 

We  had  the  "Tin  King"  on  board.  He  trav- 
eled with  six  servants,  secretary,  etc.  He  is  a  full- 
blood  Indian,  a  Bolivian,  who  lives  mostly  in 
Paris,  and  has  six  million  pounds,  or  thirty  million 
dollars.  His  two  daughters  have  been  highly 
educated  and  are  said  to  be  quite  up-to-date  and 
charming.  His  wife,  an  Indian  squaw,  slept  on 
a  sheep  skin  behind  the  door  when  first  they  went 
to  Paris,  and  he  had  great  difficulty  in  getting  her 
to  sleep  in  a  bed.  He  was  rather  a  nice  looking 
man  of  about  fifty-five.  To  me  he  seemed  too  fair 
for  an  Indian,  and  it  was  whispered  that  he  had 
paid  a  beauty  doctor  large  sums  of  money  to 
lighten  his  skin.  He  really  is  an  Indian,  though, 
and  once  wore  the  split  breeches. 

A  great  crowd  came  aboard  at  Coquimbo.  The 
steamer  was  uncomfortably  packed.  People  with 
baggage  lying  around  in  the  salon,  entire  families 
of  them,  made  the  boat  simply  intolerable  for  two 
days.  We  who  enjoyed  the  luxury  of  a  private 
bath  felt  amply  repaid  during  those  two  days  for 
the  dreadful  amount  they  charge  for  such  things 
along  this  coast.  Leaving  Coquimbo  the  sea  was 
pretty  rough.  The  boat  pitched  and  dipped  all 
night  and  it  was  very  cold.  If  we  ever  take  a 
tropical  trip  again  we  shall  certainly  be  wiser  and 
carry  the  heaviest  of  coats.  With  our  ordinary 
wraps  we  were  almost  frozen.  Yet  the  rough 
ocean  seemed  more  wonderful  than  ever.     The 


154  Below  the  Equator 

big  waves  parted  by  the  ship  dashed  away  from 
her  side  Hke  mountains  of  snow,  and  the  waters 
seemed  greener  than  usual  in  contrast.  I  have 
always  loved  the  ocean,  but  mixed  with  my  love  is 
a  good,  wholesome  fear.  With  all  its  loveHness 
and  beauty  it  is  cruel. 

My  thoughts  flew  back  to  twenty-odd  years  ago, 
to  the  waters  of  the  Atlantic,  when  our  storm- 
tossed  vessel  was  nearing  the  straits  of  Gibraltar. 
The  wind  had  been  blowing  sixty  miles  an  hour  — 
a  hurricane !  No  one  was  allowed  on  deck,  and 
everything  portable  was  lashed  with  ropes.  The 
waves  sw:ept  over  us  and  we  knew  we  were  in 
great  danger,  but  we  also  knew  fear  would  not 
help  us  —  so  my  husband  and  I,  with  our  baby 
boy,  sat  close  and  waited  and  hoped.  Well,  we 
weathered  the  storm,  but,  though  we  lay  at  anchor 
for  twelve  hours  before  the  great  fort,  we  never 
landed  and  never  saw  it  except  through  our  field 
glasses,  because  before  the  sea  was  calm  enough 
to  let  a  pilot  boat  take  us  ashore  we  had  resumed 
our  journey  to  Egypt. 

A  large  steamer  running  about  four  miles  away 
from  us  had  followed  us  right  along.  Many  of 
the  passengers  seemed  a  little  nervous.  I  was  not 
nervous  on  the  Pacific,  but  should  have  been  so 
on  the  Atlantic  for,  although  American,  we  were 
traveling  on  an  English  ship.  South  America, 
like  the  United  States,  was  neutral,  but  a  German 


The  "Tin  King"  155 

raider  on  the  Chilean  coast  might  have  made  us 
trouble. 

The  next  port  was  Valparaiso.  Two  pretty 
severe  earthquakes  had  been  felt  there  shortly 
before  and,  remembering  the  terrific  one  of  a  few 
years  ago,  we  were  not  anxious  to  encounter  an- 
other, no  matter  how  slight.  No  ship  in  South 
America  ever  lands  in  port  on  the  western  coast. 
The  fletero  and  his  little  craft  is  as  important 
and  as  well  known  as  the  great  nitrate  fields  them- 
selves. The  ship  anchors  off  from  a  quarter  to 
a  half  and  sometimes  a  mile  at  sea,  depending  on 
the  calmness  or  the  roughness  of  the  harbor. 
Dozens  of  these  fleteros  with  their  small  rowboats 
come  out  to  meet  the  steamer.  At  a  given  signal, 
after  the  doctor  has  declared  the  ship  out  of  quar- 
antine, they  all  approach  the  vessel.  Then 
pandemonium  reigns.  Screaming,  fighting,  shriek- 
ing, they  all  endeavor  to  board  the  boat  at  once. 
Two  men  usually  occupy  the  little  boat,  one  with 
the  oars,  the  other  trying  to  make  the  landing. 
With  enormous  billows  sweeping  under  the  vessel 
this  is  a  difficult  and  sometimes  dangerous  feat. 
The  steamer  and  the  small  boat  bob  up  and  down, 
not  always  simultaneously.  The  unhappy  pas- 
senger stands  clinging  to  the  rail  on  the  steps  let 
down  for  the  purpose  and  frequently  he  is  dipped 
in  two  or  three  feet  of  water  while  trying  to  make 
the  boat.    It  is  a  trying  moment  for  the  inoffensive 


156  Below  the  Equator 

passenger,  whose  only  guilt  is  that  he  has  longed 
to  see  this  southern  hemisphere  I  Indeed,  the 
knowledge  of  the  wonders  and  joys  of  the  scenery 
awaiting  him  is  the  one  thing  that  gives  him 
courage  to  attempt  the  landing.  Later,  in  the 
heart  of  the  Andes  or  in  a  comfortable  hotel  on 
the  Atlantic  side,  he  feels  with  a  certain  pride  that 
he  has  honestly  earned  the  pleasures  and  the  novel 
experience  which  is  his. 

As  we  were  engaging  our  fletero  and  looking 
with  horror  on  the  rough  sea  all  about  us  the 
captain  approached  and  informed  us  that  he 
thought  the  landing  would  be  dangerous  on  such 
an  afternoon.  We  had  thought  it  an  ordinary 
sea,  and,  though  somewhat  appalled  by  the  sight, 
had  made  up  our  minds  to  disembark.  But  we 
were  easily  persuaded  to  remain  all  night  on  board 
and  land  in  the  morning.  We  were  not  sorry  that 
we  did.  The  view  of  Valparaiso  by  night,  with 
her  beautiful  suburb  of  Vina  del  Mar,  was  worth 
waiting  for.  The  lights  from  the  city  were  won- 
derful. It  is  a  city  of  about  two  hundred  thousand 
inhabitants  and  has  only  one  level  street.  From 
this  the  town  rises  abruptly  to  the  hills.  It  looked 
like  a  brilliant  jewel,  and  placed  conspicuously  in 
the  center  was  a  statue  of  the  Blessed  Virgin.  This 
shrine  was  lighted  brilliantly  and,  although  we 
were  two  miles  or  more  out  at  sea,  we  had  a  superb 
view  of  it.    The  next  morning  the  ocean  was  calm 


The  "Tin  King"  157 

md  beautiful.  We  landed  easily  and  found  our- 
selves in  a  modern,  lively,  up-to-date  city,  with 
beautiful  homes,  superb  gardens  and  an  abundance 
of  beautiful  flowers,  the  glorious  pink  geranium 
blooming  profusely  everywhere.  Vina  del  Mar 
is  the  fashionable  suburb  on  the  ocean  for  the 
wealthy  Chileans.  Many  of  them  live  there  the 
year  round  and  their  homes  are  models  of  com- 
fort and  elegance. 

We  had  fallen  Into  the  habit  of  the  early 
desayuno,  the  breakfast  of  coffee  and  crackers. 
This  is  always  served  In  one's  rooms,  of  course. 
The  second  breakfast  is  called  almuerzo  and  is  a 
most  substantial  meal,  served  at  twelve  o'clock. 
Then  there  Is  a  long  wait  until  the  nine  o'clock 
dinner  hour,  but  this  Is  Invariably  broken  by  the 
afternoon  tea  or  chocolate  taken  between  four  or 
five  In  the  afternoon.  In  South  America  all  the 
elite  of  the  cities  gather  at  this  hour  in  the  charm- 
ing little  tea  rooms  or  restaurants  for  tea,  choco- 
late, and  dainty  cake.  This  is  as  good  a  time  and 
place  to  see  the  real  people  of  the  various  cities 
as  is  the  plaza  between  six  and  eight,  when  they 
all  walk  around  visiting  and  having  a  good  time. 
The  whole  life  is  practically  an  outdoor  one.  This 
alone  would  make  it  wonderfully  attractive  to 
those  who  come  from  colder  climes  where  from 
eight  to  ten  months  of  the  year  they  are  cooped 
up  in  steam-heated  houses. 


CHAPTER  XXIII 

VALPARAISO 

VALPARAISO  of  course,  enjoys  the  reputa- 
tion of  having  had  probably  the  worst  earth- 
quake in  the  world.  This  was  not  so  many  years 
ago  that  anyone  has  forgotten  it.  The  quake  was 
followed  by  a  great  tidal  wave,  and  what  the  sea 
spared  was  afterward  consumed  by  fire.  People 
took  their  flight  across  felled  buildings  to  the  hills,' 
and  in  the  lightest  of  clothing  were  compelled  to 
spend  many  hours  in  the  chill  air  from  the  ocean. 
It  is  said  to  have  been  a  fearful  sight.  The  earth 
did  not  have  the  usual  vibrating  motion.  Instead 
It  swayed  from  north  to  south,  and  so  terrible 
was  the  swaying  that  even  the  dogs  protested. 
They  whined  and  barked  incessantly.  The  whole 
city  was  practically  a  mass  of  ruins.  Paths  were 
cleared  in  the  streets  and  small  fires  built  in  the 
squares  after  the  trembling  had  ceased,  but  for 
days  none  dared  to  enter  their  houses  —  the  few 
that  were  left.  They  feared  a  repetition  of  the 
disaster.  There  was  great  loss  of  life,  too,  for 
many  were  caught  under  the  ruins.  We  found  no 
evidence  of  this  In  the  grand  city  we  entered, 

158 


I 


Valparaiso  159 


however.  It  has  been  rebuilt  and  is  now  garbed 
in  the  grandest  of  modern  dress.  There  was 
a  quake  the  morning  of  our  arrival  and  another 
in  the  afternoon.  But  all  these  temblors  which 
keep  the  tourist  keyed  up  and  anxious  seem  not 
to  affect  the  inhabitants  at  all.  When  questioned 
about  them  they  smile  and  say  "We  shall  never 
have  another  big  one  I  " 

Living  in  an  earthquake  zone  would  seem  to 
me  to  have  its  drawbacks.  I  was  in  California 
when  she  went  through  the  throes  of  that  terrible 
one  prior  to  the  one  in  Valparaiso.  My  children 
were  small,  my  husband  was  away,  so  my  faithful 
nurse,  Mary  Conrad,  and  I  endured  this  thrilling 
experience  alone.  Since  then  I  have  dreaded  even 
the  slightest  temblor.  Still,  this  would  be  a  monot- 
onous world  if  we  were  not  willing  to  take  some 
chances  in  life,  and  though  the  earthquake  is  con- 
sidered a  big  chance  in  South  America,  we  traveled 
six  months,  encountered  half  a  dozen,  but  were 
never  conscious  of  any,  they  were  so  slight. 

In  an  earthquake  country  one  reads  queer  rules. 
Children  are  taught  never  to  close  their  doors  at 
night,  as  a  shock  can  spring  the  lock  and  imprison 
them  so  that  in  case  of  fire  they  could  not  escape. 
The  only  comfort  which  one  can  have  in  living  in 
a  zone  of  this  kind  is  that  years  usually  elapse 
between  really  dangerous  quakes.  Somehow,  one 
always  seems  to  feel  that  since  the  big  one  has 


160  Below  the  Equator 

already  occurred  it  is  not  necessary  for  him  to 
move!  They  do  not  change  their  residences  be- 
cause they  feel  sure  that  they  are  not  likely  to 
have  another. 

Valparaiso  has  certainly  had  some  trying  times. 
She  was  three  times  captured  and  sacked  by 
pirates.  She  was  bombarded  by  the  Spanish  fleets, 
once  destroyed  by  fire  and  suffered  terribly  by  the 
Balmaceda  revolution.  But  today,  with  a  popula- 
tion of  approximately  two  hundred  thousand,  she 
seems  flourishing  and  is  apparently  without  a  care 
in  the  world.  They  say,  however,  that  her  coast 
line  breeds  the  worst  storms  on  the  Pacific,  and 
that  many  times  the  ships  anchored  a  mile  or  so 
out  at  sea  are  obliged  to  seek  safety  in  mid-ocean 
instead  of  risking  approach  to  her  shore. 

Three  hundred  and  eighty  miles  west  of  Val- 
paraiso is  a  Chilean  possession  known  as  Juan 
Fernando  Island.  This  island  is  the  one  made 
famous  by  DeFoe  as  the  kingdom  of  Robinson 
Crusoe.  After  the  great  earthquake  in  1906 
Chile  feared  the  island  had  been  sunk,  but  she 
found  by  sending  a  vessel  out  to  investigate  that 
the  few  fishermen  who  lived  upon  the  island  had 
scarcely  felt  the  quake  at  all.  The  whole  world 
is  interested  in  this  island  because  the  children 
all  love  it  for  its  famous  story. 

It  was  here  that  we  had  to  make  up  our  minds 
whether  we  should  go  down  the  Chilean  coast, 


Valparaiso  161 


around  the  horn  and  fhrough  the  Straits  of  Magel- 
lan to  reach  Buenos  Aires,  or  whether  we  would 
take  the  trans-Andean  climb  and  go  across  the 
mountains.  Everyone  told  us  that  no  matter  how 
beautiful  we  found  the  one  we  would  certainly 
regret  not  having  taken  the  other.  They  are 
equally  famous  for  attractiveness  and  we  realized 
that  the  only  way,  if  we  wished  to  enjoy  peace  of 
mind  afterward,  was  to  go  by  one  of  these  routes 
and  return  by  the  other.  But  the  ever-recurring 
news  of  war  made  us  realize  that  if  we  should 
find  it  necessary  to  return  home  suddenly  and 
still  see  the  eastern  coast  of  South  America  we 
had  better  choose  the  shorter  route  —  the  Andes. 
When  we  reached  Buenos  Aires,  if  all  was 
favorable,  we  could  then  return  by  the  other 
route.  We  had  already  decided  to  return  home 
by  way  of  the  Pacific  because  of  war  news. 
It  was  with  keen  regret  that  we  abandoned  the 
trip  through  the  Straits  of  Magellan. 

In  the  history  of  the  world  three  voyages 
always  stand  out  in  my  mind  as  the  most  daring  — 
that  of  Columbus  in  1492,  that  of  Vasco  da  Gama 
to  find  India  in  1497,  and  that  of  Magellan  in 
15 19.  Of  these  Magellan's  was  probably  the 
most  difficult.  He  had  eight  thousand  miles  of 
ocean  to  cross  before  he  got  to  the  Straits,  and 
once  there  he  encountered  exceedingly  stormy 
weather.     I  had  always  heard  this  channel  de- 


162  Below  the  Equator 

scribed  as  very  beautfiul.  From  the  days  of  its 
discovery  by  the  brave  mariner,  writers  have  sung 
its  charms  and  it  is  one  of  the  show  places  of 
South  America.  No  wise  man  can  afford  to 
miss  it. 

It  is  not  an  easy  trip.  High  winds  and  rough 
seas  prevail  to  an  extreme  degree.  Indeed,  the 
heaviest  seas  in  the  world  are  said  to  be  about 
Cape  Horn.  Being  drenched  by  a  wave  and  even 
knocked  down  by  one  is  a  common  experience  on 
shipboard,  but  the  long  line  of  islands  stretching 
down  the  coast  of  Chile  for  seven  hundred  miles 
to  the  entrance  of  the  Straits  containing  innumera- 
ble bays,  through  which  the  steamer  passes,  makes 
it  a  wonderfully  attractive  trip.  There  is  one 
channel  called  Smyth's  Channel  which  arouses  the 
admiration  of  everyone. 

All  along  the  headland  of  this  stern  and  lofty 
coast  are  magnificent  mountains,  some  of  which 
rise  abruptly  two  thousand  feet  out  of  the  ocean. 
There  is  no  coast  in  the  world  more  dangerous 
than  this,  for  should  a  ship  become  disabled  the 
strong  current  would  be  fatal.  However,  the 
navigators  are  skilled,  the  machinery  kept  in  good 
condition  and  the  trip  frequently  made.  In  spite 
of  the  gray  drapery  of  mists  which  are  so  fre- 
quent here  the  shore  can  be  clearly  seen.  Long, 
snow-crowned  ranges  with  their  green  glaciers 
present  a  most  imposing  sight.     Sometimes  the 


I 


Valparaiso  163 


latter  lie  only  two  hundred  feet  above  the  sea. 
The  Tres  Montes  are  conspicuous  for  their 
grandeur,  and  the  spray  breaking  on  the  sides  can 
be  seen  fifteen  miles  away.  We  longed  to  take 
this  trip.  What  cared  we  for  rough  seas  or  mat 
de  merf  We  wanted  to  see  Patagonia  and  the 
Straits. 

Patagonia  means  the  "land  of  the  big  paws,  or 
big  feet."  It  had  always  seemed  so  far  away  that 
it  was  a  land  of  enchantment.  In  spite  of  the 
descriptions  of  its  bleakness  and  bareness  it  had 
always  seemed  like  another  world,  and  I  had  a 
strong  desire  to  go  in  and  investigate.  But  alas  — 
half  her  charm  has  gone.  Patagonia  has  lost  her 
name.  There  is  no  Patagonia  now.  She  has  dis- 
appeared from  the  map,  having  been  absorbed  by 
Chile  and  Argentina.  Those  curiously  formed 
natives  of  which  I  had  read  so  often,  high  in  bust 
and  with  arms  like  tree  trunks,  small  lower  limbs 
so  out  of  proportion  to  the  upper  half  of  their 
bodies,  and  said  to  be  owing  to  their  life  on  horse- 
back—  with  long  black  hair,  eyes  as  dark  as  their 
hair,  and  teeth  white  as  pearl.  They  were  still 
there,  it  is  true,  but  they  are  no  longer  Patago- 
nians,  the  people  of  the  "  land  of  the  big  paws." 
They  are  now  Chileans. 

Tierra  del  Fuego,  another  land  of  mystery  which 
in  my  earliest  youth  had  attracted  me  by  its  musi- 
cal name,  had  also  to  be  passed  by.     My  lessons 


164  Below  the  Equator 

In  geography  were  always  perfect  whenever  ques- 
tions in  reference  to  this  land  were  asked.  I  was 
almost  heart  broken  when  it  was  necessary  to  cut 
it  from  the  route,  although  I  still  cherished  a  hope 
that  the  war  clouds  would  scatter  and  that  we 
might  see  it  on  the  return.  Around  Cape  Horn 
and  through  the  Straits  the  weather  is  always 
turbulent.  The  Storm  King  rages  there.  The 
seas  run  mountain  high  and  the  winds  are  said  to 
be  terrific.  A  ship  has  to  fight  bravely,  and  it 
usually  wins  the  battle,  though  many  are  said  to 
be  lost  every  year  in, Cape  Horn  waters.  Often 
the  sailors  are  frozen  to  death  and  even  when  the 
ship  gets  through  safely  she  is  somewhat  maimed 
and  crippled. 

It  is  in  this  part  of  the  world  that  the  albatross 
loves  to  come.  As  a  rule  it  keeps  away  from 
inland  places,  preferring  the  open  seas.  But  some- 
how it  seems  to  feel  that  it  will  be  repaid  for  com- 
ing here.  It  is,  of  course,  a  man-eating  bird,  and 
is  enormous.  Stories  are  told  of  specimens  meas- 
uring from  twenty  to  twenty-four  feet  across  the 
wings.  If  an  unfortunate  falls  overboard  the 
albatross  pounces  down  swiftly  and  picks  out  his 
eyes,  nose  and  ears  in  less  time  than  it  takes  to 
tell.  Beautiful  as  this  bird  is,  I  should  not  care 
to  see  one  in  the  open  sea.  It  is  horribly  sug- 
gestive ! 


CHAPTER  XXIV 

SANTIAGO  AND  CRISTOBAL  MOUNTAIN 

ONE  morning  about  five-thirty  we  left  Val- 
paraiso and  took  the  train  for  Santiago. 
As  has  already  been  said,  the  trains  do  not  run 
daily,  and  as  a  consequence  they  are  usually 
packed.  Fortunately  we  had  our  parlor-car  chairs 
in  advance.  The  ride  consumed  only  a  few  hours 
and  was  delightful.  The  country  was  under  beau- 
tiful cultivation.  There  were  vineyards  and  fruit 
farms  galore.  At  the  stations  the  fruit  vendors 
were  extremely  picturesque,  especially  at  Llai-Llai, 
where  long  tables  filled  with  luscious  nectarines, 
peaches,  grapes,  melons,  etc.,  were  temptingly  dis- 
played in  baskets.  These  extend  the  whole  length 
of  the  station,  are  heavily  loaded  and  good  to 
see.  Back  of  them  stood  the  women,  usually 
dressed  in  pretty  colors,  bright  pinks,  blues,  and 
yellows.  Silently  they  offer  their  wares.  Not  a 
word  is  spoken,  for  they  are  not  permitted  to  open 
their  mouths  —  an  excellent  rule!  Quietly  and 
comfortably  we  selected  our  fruit  and  it  proved 
delicious. 

The  mountains  and  rolling  country,  where  an 
165 


166  Below  the  Equator 

occasional  glimpse  of  snow  peaks  was  to  be  had, 
still  enchanted  us.  We  never  tired  of  it.  We 
reached  Santiago  for  almuerzo.  That  afternoon 
we  walked  up  to  the  top  of  the  Santa  Lucia  Hill  in 
the  center  of  the  city  and  had  a  fine  view.  But  it 
is  certainly  a  climb.  Santiago  impresses  one  most 
favorably.  It  was  the  finest  city  we  had  yet  seen 
on  our  journey.  It  is  larger  and  much  more  im- 
posing than  Valparaiso.  The  wide  alameda  is 
called  Avenida  de  las  Delicias,  and  it  deserves  its 
name.  It  is  six  hundred  feet  wide,  a  superb 
avenue.  The  city  gives  every  indication  of  its 
comfortable,  modern  equipment.  This  view  from 
Santa  Lucia  Hill  is  famed  the  world  over.  We 
watched  the  sunset,  a  glorious  red  and  gold,  and 
opposite  all  this  splendor,  but  toward  the  east, 
stood  San  Cristobal  mountain.  It  was  snow  white 
when  we  saw  it  first,  but  before  we  left,  it  deepened 
to  rose  color  just  as  though  it  had  been  painted  — 
as  indeed  it  was,  by  God's  hand!  No  human 
artist  could  have  given  it  so  exquisite  a  color. 

From  their  wide  alameda  the  Andes  are  glori- 
ous and  seen  plainly.  This  street  is  filled  with 
beautiful  trees,  and  wandering  through  all  these 
strange  and  beautiful  cities  we  would  sometimes 
gasp  and  wonder  if  the  very  interesting  trip  we 
were  making  was  a  reality.  The  human  being  as 
a  rule  is  a  most  adaptable  creature.  Accepting 
everything  that  comes  along  as  a  matter  of  course, 


Santiago  and  Cristobal  Mountain     167 

^Lhe  often  finds  himself  In  the  midst  of  scenes  of 
^wv^hich  he  has  dreamed  for  years,  yet  he  plods  along 
^^mrith  hardly  a  thrill  for  the  splendid  sights  he  had 
'     longed  for  and  is  now  actually  experiencing.    This 
'      was  our  case.    Calmly  we  viewed  these  wonderful 
places  which  we  had  hoped,  but  never  expected,  to 
see.     We  were  perfectly  calm  and  matter-of-fact 
about  It.    Is  this  just  human  nature  ?    We  seldom 
get  what  we  want  just  when  we  want  it !    Perhaps 
that  is  the  reason  why  when  we  do  realize  our 
ambitions  we  are  seldom  as  enthusiastic  as  when 
we  anticipated  them.    However,  I  think  we  appre- 
ciated our  trip  to  the  full,  although  we  may  have 
lost  some  of  the  enthusiasm  of  early  youth. 

I  find  my  mind  often  reverting  to  the  excellent 
food  so  often  served  In  the  pretty  little  restaurants 
in  these  South  American  cities.  There  is  a  very 
fine  one  in  Santiago,  bearing  the  name  of  the  city. 
This  reminds  me  that  I  have  not  dwelt  as  much 
as  I  meant  to  on  the  delectable  foods  of  South 
America.  For  instance,  in  Lima  we  were  served 
with  delicious  meals.  The  Lima  corn  deserves 
especial  mention,  the  grains  being  as  large  as 
dimes  and  yet  so  tender  they  melted  in  one's 
mouth.     Never  have  I  tasted  anything  finer. 

The  weather  while  we  were  here  was  cool  and 
delightful,  and  again  we  met  the  charming  Chilean 
couple,  Seiior  and  Senora  Mardones,  whom  we 
had  first  seen  on  shipboard.     She  spoke  a  little  ■ 


168  Below  the  Equator 

French  and  he  a  little  English  in  addition  to  their 
own  Spanish.  We  were  both  improving  in  Span- 
ish and  managed  to  have  some  very  good  times 
with  them.  They  lived  in  Santiago  and  were  most 
cordial  and  hospitable  in  their  treatment  of  us. 
A  fine  museum  and  art  gallery  was  thoroughly 
enjoyed.  And  we  were  delighted  to  find  some 
modern  American  paintings  there.  Two  Chicago 
artists  were  represented. 

The  Quinta  Normale  (Agricultural  College) 
was  singularly  interesting.  Great  fields  of  vege- 
tables and  fruits  and  old  trees  were  cultivated 
there.  It  is  the  gift  of  a  wealthy  woman  of  the 
city  and  is  certainly  a  progressive  institution. 

The  women  of  Santiago  are  particularly  beau- 
tiful. They  are  not  so  stout  as  the  women  usually 
are  In  tropical  countries.  The  manta  Is  folded 
here  In  such  manner  as  to  be  most  becoming  to 
them.  This  city,  the  capital  of  Chile,  has  a  popu- 
lation of  four  hundred  thousand,  is  walled  in  by 
great  mountains,  has  most  beautiful  drives,  and 
the  parks  and  pleasure  resorts  are  as  fine  as  any 
we  ever  saw.  Flowers  and  creeping  vines  are  to 
be  seen  in  wild  profusion.  Bright  waters  splash- 
ing from  fountains,  marble  statues  adorning  the 
drives,  and  always  that  wonderful  range  of  the 
Andes.!  Could  any  city  in  the  world  be  more 
beautifully  situated  than  Santiago  de  Chile? 

While  driving  one  afternoon  we  met  the  presi- 


Santiago  and  Cristobal  Mountain     169 

dent  and  his  wife,  a  very  handsome  couple.  They 
knew  our  friends  and  were  most  courteous  in  their 
reception  of  us.  It  was  in  Santiago  that  we  saw 
for  the  first  time  the  women  conductors  on  the 
street  cars !  We  had  not  been  struck  by  any  par- 
ticular independence  in  v/omen  since  we  had  come 
to  South  America.  Indeed,  among  the  working 
classes  the  women  are  rather  sad  looking  objects. 
Hard  working,  looking  older  than  their  years  and 
usually  with  an  expression  of  dejection  and  sad- 
ness, especially  on  the  western  coast  we  had 
observed  their  look  of  hopelessness.  The  South 
American  working  woman  had  seemed  to  us  the 
embodiment  of  the  spirit  of  those  awful  ceme- 
teries on  the  barren  slopes  of  the  Pacific  which  so 
haunted  us.  She  seemed  such  a  contrast  to  the 
sturdy,  lazy  husband.  The  despair  in  her  eyes 
often  wrings  one's  heart.  She  seems  to  realize  the 
hopelessness  of  her  own  condition. 

But  here  In  Santiago  the  women  conductors 
were  a  great  contrast.  They  were  alert  and  up- 
to-date.  The  lively  way  In  which  they  did  business 
was  most  inspiring.  They  had  on  dark-colored 
dresses,  with  white  aprons  and  many  small 
pockets  in  which  to  carry  their  change.  They 
wore  the  queerest  round  black  sailor  hats  with  high 
crowns,  also  a  brass  Insignia,  or  lettering,  denot- 
ing their  calling  and  dignity.  Those  funny  little 
hats  perched  high  on  their  heads  set  me  to  laugh- 


170  Below  the  Equator 

ing  every  time  I  saw  them.  But  they  were  no 
laughing  matter  to  those  who  wore  them.  These 
women  were  as  solemn  and  serious  looking  as  one 
could  find  anywhere. 

As  is  usual  in  this  country,  there  are  beautiful 
churches  in  Santiago  filled  with  solid  silver  and 
gold-leaf  ornaments  and  wonderful  carvings,  and 
with  a  fortune  in  jewels  decorating  the  statue  of 
the  Blessed  Virgin.  The  rich  Catholics  here  show 
their  devotion  by  bringing  in  their  fine  raiment  and 
jewels  as  offerings  of  thankfulness  for  some  favor 
prayed  for  and  received.  The  collection  is  often 
attractive  and  certainly  it  is  valuable.  The  clean 
mosaic  floors  of  the  churches  are  sanitary  as  well 
as  handsome.  We  enjoyed  many  days  in  this 
famed  city,  visiting  the  cemetery  and  wander- 
ing through  the  beautiful  streets  and  imposing 
buildings.  The  Santiagoans  are  justly  proud  of 
their  beautiful  cemetery.  No  vehicle  is  allowed 
within  its  sacred  portals,  but  all  tourists  are  ad- 
vised not  to  miss  seeing  the  artistic  and  costly 
monuments  it  contains.  We  wandered  through 
it  for  several  hours,  but  in  spite  of  its  beauty  the 
terrible  practice  which  prevails  throughout  South 
America  haunts  me  yet — a  gruesome  recollection. 
iThey  have  a  custom  of  airing  the  tombs,  that  is, 
the  corpses,  and  we  had  observed  a  frightful  odor 
several  times.  We  were  attracted  to  a  quaint 
little  chapel  and  entered  it.    What  was  our  amaze- 


Santiago  and  Cristobal  Mountain      171 

ment  and  horror  to  discover  a  white  coffin  with 
the  lid  removed,  exposing  the  body  of  a  child. 
The  decomposition  was  far  advanced  and  I  need 
not  add  that  we  did  not  tarry  long. 

In  the  early  morning  before  we  left  we  were 
treated  to  a  fine  earthquake.  But  we  slept  calmly 
through  it  and  learned  of  it  only  when  we  were 
having  our  desayuno. 

Santiago's  independence  was  declared  in  1810. 
The  climate  here  is  good,  yet  it  is  considered  ex- 
tremely unhealthy.  Although  the  summers  are 
not  very  hot  it  is  very  dusty.  The  wealthy  resi- 
dents always  go  down  to  the  sea,  to  Vina  del  Mar, 
or  some  other  resort,  or  else  to  the  beautiful  lake 
regions,  the  springs  or  baths  in  the  mountains. 
The  conditions  of  health  are  improving  because 
of  interest  lately  aroused  in  sanitation,  and  doubt- 
less it  will  in  time  become  a  healthy  place.  It 
would  be  a  delightful  city  in  which  to  live  the 
year  round. 

General  O'Higgins  did  a  great  deal  for  this 
place.  He  is  the  great  hero  of  Chile  and  was 
made  governor  in  1778.  He  took  part  in  the 
revolutionary  struggle,  finally  becoming  supreme 
dictator.  He  gave  an  excellent  administration  and 
it  seems  a  shame  that  ungrateful  Chile  should  have 
asked  him  to  resign.  She  practically  sent  him  to 
Peru  to  die.  Later  they  regretted  this  treatment 
of  their  patriot  and  were  taking  steps  toward 


172  Below  the  Equator 

reinstating  him  in  Guano.  Before  this  could  be 
accomplished,  however,  he  died.  His  remains 
were  brought  back  to  Chile,  and  almost  every  city 
has  shown  him  honor  in  one  way  or  another. 
Bronze  statues  are  to  be  found  everywhere  and 
museums  contain  many  of  his  belongings. 

As  in  all  South  American  cities,  the  plazas  and 
parks  of  Santiago  are  a  most  important  feature. 
From  them  a  superb  view  of  the  mountains  can  be 
obtained.  They  say  that  from  Valparaiso,  Acon- 
cagua is  visible,  but  from  Santiago  it  cannot  be 
seen.  However,  the  other  peaks  are  just  as  beau- 
tiful, and  often  we  sat  in  the  public  square  and 
gazed  at  them  from  this  distance.  Santiago  is  a 
very  religious  place  —  at  least  as  far  as  the  women 
are  concerned.  Their  churches  and  cemetery  are 
their  most  priceless  possessions. 


CHAPTER  XXV 

THE  CHRIST  OF  THE  ANDES 

AT  SIX  o'clock  in  the  morning  we  took  the 
train  for  Los  Andes,  where  we  were  to 
spend  the  night.  A  lovelier  night  cannot  be 
imagined  —  full  moon,  brilliant  stars,  glorious 
crosses  in  the  heavens !  But  here  we  met  with 
two  great  disappointments.  The  road  to  the 
Christ  of  the  Andes  proved  impassable.  We  could 
not  visit  it,  but  had  to  pass  right  under  it  through 
a  long  tunnel.  We  could  not  even  see  it  from  a 
distance.  This  colossal  statue  of  the  Christ  on 
the  Andean  border  between  Chile  and  the  Argen- 
tine Republic,  fourteen  thousand  feet  above  the 
level  of  the  sea,  commemorates  the  unique  and 
impressive  events  which  led  to  its  erection. 

Years  ago  these  two  prosperous  and  high- 
spirited  republics  of  South  America  were  on  the 
verge  of  war.  They  each  had  big  warships  build- 
ing in  the  shipyards  of  Europe.  They  had  revived 
an  old  dispute  in  regard  to  the  boundary  line  and 
were  nearing  a  conflict.  The  controversy  was 
rendered  acute  by  the  discovery  that  in  the  Pata- 
gonian  section  the  boundary  was  not  continuously 

173 


174  Below  the  Equator 

marked  by  mountain  crests,  and  that  there  were 
valuable  rivers  in  the  region  sending  their  waters 
through  the  hills  to  the  sea  on  the  Chilean  side. 
This  caused  Chile  to  put  forward  other  unex- 
pected claims  to  pass  through  this  region. 

The  British  ministers  at  Buenos  Aires  and 
Santiago  used  their  good  offices  with  the  two  gov- 
ernments to  effect  a  settlement  and  secure  peace. 
Fervent  appeals  were  made  to  avoid  war.  Bishops 
traveled  through  the  country  pleading  for  peace 
in  the  towns  and  villages,  and  it  was  proposed  to 
place  a  statue  of  Christ  on  the  boundary  line  be- 
tween the  two  countries.  The  women  enthusi- 
astically endorsed  the  proposal.  Petitions  were 
sent  to  the  legislatures  and  executives.  The  result 
was  that  both  governments  submitted  the  contro- 
versy to  the  arbitration  of  the  King  of  England. 
He  entrusted  the  affair  to  eminent  jurists  and 
expert  geographlsts.  When  their  decision  was 
reached,  both  republics  agreed  to  it  cheerfully. 
Gratified  with  the  outcome,  both  governments 
went  further.  They  pledged  themselves  for  a 
period  of  five  years  to  submit  all  controversies  to 
arbitration.  Work  on  the  four  great  warships 
was  arrested,  and  the  result  of  this  disarmament 
has  been  remarkable.  With  money  saved  by 
lessening  their  military  and  naval  expenditures 
they  have  constructed  good  railroads.  Chile  has 
also  built  breakwaters  on  her  coast,  and  one  or 


The  Christ  of  the  Andes  175 

two  of  Argentina's  war  vessels  have  gone  into  a 
commercial  fleet,  as  they  feel  that  they  will  never 
again  need  them  for  war  with  Chile.  A  most  cor- 
dial feeling  exists  between  Chileans  and  Argen- 
tines. The  old  feeling  of  bitterness  has  entirely 
disappeared.  The  suggestion  of  Bishop  Bena- 
vente  In  regard  to  the  erection  of  a  statue  of  Christ 
on  the  boundary  line  at  Puente  del  Inca  was 
quickly  carried  Into  execution.  The  design  was 
entrusted  to  a  young  Argentine  sculptor,  Mateo 
Alonso.  The  statue  was  cast  at  the  arsenal  at 
Buenos  Aires  from  cannon  taken  from  an  old 
fortress  outside  the  city.  A  year  later  it  was 
placed  in  position  and  for  a  week  there  was  con- 
tinuous festivity  in  both  countries.  Thousands 
attended  the  unveiling  of  the  statue,  coming  up  the 
evening  before  and  encamping  for  the  night,  so 
that  they  might  be  present  in  the  morning.  The 
Argentines  ranged  themselves  on  the  soil  of  Chile 
and  the  Chileans  on  the  soil  of  Argentina.  There 
was  music,  and  the  booming  of  guns  which  echoed 
and  reechoed  through  the  mountains.  But  at  the 
actual  moment  of  unveiling  there  fell  a  solemn 
silence.  The  statue  was  dedicated  to  the  whole 
world  as  a  practical  lesson  of  peace  and  good-will. 
The  ceremonies  took  place  on  March  13,  1904, 
ending  with  a  prayer  that  love  and  kindness  might 
penetrate  the  hearts  of  all  men. 

The  base  of  the  statue  is  stone.     On  this  is  a 


176  Below  the  Equator 

granite  sphere  on  which  the  outlines  of  the  world 
are  sketched.  Resting  on  the  granite  column  twenty- 
two  feet  high  is  the  figure  of  Christ  in  bronze, 
twenty-six  feet  high.  The  cross  supporting  his 
left  hand  is  five  feet  higher,  and  the  right  hand 
is  stretched  out  in  blessing.  On  the  granite  base 
are  two  bronze  tablets,  one  given  by  the  Working- 
men's  union  of  Buenos  Aires  and  the  other  by 
the  working  women.  One  gives  a  record  of  the 
creation  and  a  record  of  the  statue.  On  the  other 
Is  inscribed  these  words: 

Sooner  shall  these  mountains  crumble 
into  dust  than  shall  the  Argentines  and 
Chileans  break  the  peace  which  they 
have  pledged  at  the  feet  of  Christ,  the 
Redeemer. 

What  a  lesson  for  all  war  makers ! 

Our  second  disappointment  was  that  we  had 
to  travel  on  a  narrow-gauge  road  in  a  very  un- 
comfortable little  car  and  could  not  get  our  dor- 
mitorio  until  night.  As  the  journey  was  wholly 
in  the  mountains,  it  was  an  experience.  This  was 
the  fifth  time  that  we  had  crossed  the  Andes,  but 
each  time  the  crossing  seemed  more  wonderful. 
Our  pleasure  on  this  occasion  was  heightened  by 
the  knowledge  that  the  train  was  to  depart  at  an 
unearthly  hour  next  morning — a  quarter  to  six. 
Still,  at  that  hour  the  mountains  would  be  glorious. 


The  Christ  of  the  Andes  177 

so  we  went  to  bed  in  hope  of  a  fine  day.  This 
hope  was  realized.  Glimpses  of  the  great  gorges 
with  the  snow  crowns  above  and  every  color  of 
the  rainbow  beneath  —  the  sight  was  entrancing! 
The  story  of  Argentina  reads  like  romance. 
For  a  long  time  this  country  was  held  in  bondage 
by  the  absolute  control  of  one  man,  General  Rosas. 
His  administration  was  not  the  best  of  the  country. 
It  was  a  tyrannical  control  where  any  expression 
of  public  opinion  was  rendered  impossible  because 
of  his  swift  revenge  if  it  did  not  meet  with  his 
approval.  Of  course,  under  such  circumstances 
advance  in  civilization  is  impossible.  Individually 
and  collectively,  he  strangled  all  progress.  Men 
were  afraid  to  think  for  themselves.  The  savage 
brutality  of  this  dictator  was  felt  on  all  hands. 
His  rule  was  particularly  tyrannous  in  Buenos 
Aires,  because  here  the  greatest  wealth  was  in- 
volved. In  spite  of  all  opposition  to  him,  how- 
ever, he  was  an  absolute  power  for  eighteen  years. 
Then  a  revolution  broke  out  In  full  force.  This 
one-man  power  was  broken  and,  finding  his  life 
imperiled,  he  fled  to  the  British  minister  for  pro- 
tection. He  was  concealed  for  a  day  or  two  and 
then  fled  the  country.  This  was  In  1852.  The 
people  had  been  so  held  down  by  this  man's  low 
standard  of  civilization  that  there  was  httle  public 
spirit  left  to  undertake  the  affairs  of  state.  Still, 
there  was  an  Intense  feeling  of  relief,  especially  In 


178  Below  the  Equator 

Buenos  Aires,  when  It  was  known  that  he  was  no 
longer  to  be  considered.  They  were  a  long  time 
restoring  themselves  under  General  Urquiza,  who 
had  defeated  Rosas  and  had  held  the  reins  of 
government  since  his  flight.  He  was  not  an 
unqualified  success,  either.  Disturbances  broke 
out  many  times,  and  in  i860  the  tension  became 
so  unbearable  that  Buenos  Aires  at  last  awoke  to 
the  necessity  of  appealing  to  arms  to  decide  what 
her  future  position  was  to  be.  She  selected  Gen- 
eral Bartolome  Mitre  to  lead  her  forces.  General 
Mitre  proved  successful  In  a  decisive  victory,  and 
In  October,  1861,  this  led  to  the  evacuation  of 
Rosarlo  by  Urquiza  and  practically  ended  the 
campaign.  Peace  followed  soon  and  General 
Mitre  became  president. 

The  new  president  Introduced  many  reforms  In 
the  national  policy  and  tried  not  to  antagonize  the 
provinces.  He  was  aware  of  the  jealous  feeling 
existing  everywhere  In  regard  to  Buenos  Aires. 
But  the  aggressive  attitude  of  General  Lopez,  the 
dictator  of  Paraguay,  alarmed  him.  This  little 
Inland  state  he  had  never  considered  at  all,  but 
her  warlike  operations  now  began  to  worry  him. 
So  negotiations  were  set  on  foot  to  Induce  Uru- 
guay and  Brazil  to  assist  him  In  defeating  the 
ambitious  progress  of  Lopez.  In  1865  the  three 
countries  decided  to  invade  Paraguay.  Of  course, 
all  this  caused  General  Mitre  to  lessen  his  watch 


The  Christ  of  the  Andes  179 

on  his  own  country,  and  his  long  absence  In  Para- 
guay in  command  of  his  army  enabled  politicians 
at  home  to  undermine  his  personal  influence.  An 
awful  visitation  of  the  cholera  came  in  1868.  The 
city  was  almost  deserted  during  this  calamity. 
This  gave  the  politicians  further  opportunity  to 
carry  on  their  work,  and  in  1868  they  elected  a 
new  president.  Dr.  Sarmiento.  In  spite  of  Mitre's 
resistance  he  was  deposed. 

The  Paraguayan  question  was  finally  settled, 
but  at  a  great  cost  of  men  and  money.  The  con- 
flict was  heavy  and  when  the  struggle  was  ended 
Argentina  found  herself  pretty  well  depleted.  A 
few  years  later,  in  1871,  there  came  another  epi- 
demic—  yellow  fever.  The  death  rate  was  so 
appalling  that  business  was  paralyzed.  Whole 
families  died,  and  there  were  scarcely  enough 
people  left  to  attend  the  sick  and  bury  the  dead. 
But  in  spite  of  all  these  things  that  Argentina  had 
to  fight  she  made  substantial  progress  during  Sar- 
miento's  presidency.  People  regain  confidence; 
their  commerce  and  industries  took  a  fresh  start. 
They  took  more  interest  in  politics  and  turned 
their  thoughts  toward  railroads  and  telegraphs, 
of  which  they  had  none.  This  was  in  1874.  The 
situation  was  full  of  complications,  but  they  were 
not  insurmountable. 

Revolutions  and  military  disturbances  still  kept 
them  busy,  however,  for  the  next  few  years;  but 


180  Below  the  Equator 

with  the  accession  of  General  Roca  the  situation 
changed.  This  man  was  a  shrewd  observer  of 
men,  reserved  In  manner,  but  never  forgetting  a 
favor.  He  was  slow  to  act,  but  he  was  a  perfect 
listener.  They  called  him  El  Zorra^  which  means 
"  the  fox."  He  had  great  military  knowledge  and 
knew  how  to  handle  men.  He  managed  the  deli- 
cate situation  wonderfully.  His  power  was  great 
In  Argentina,  where  he  was  extremely  popular 
with  the  army  and  brought  the  people  closer  to- 
gether. Under  him  the  national  feeling  of  jealousy 
and  the  small  bickerings  gradually  disappeared. 
He  established  a  strong  central  government, 
checked  the  revolutionary  outbreaks,  and  held  his 
administration  with  a  firm  hand.  He  saw  the 
enormous  possibilities  of  Argentina's  undeveloped 
land.  He  knew  Its  fertility  and  his  endeavor  now 
was  to  populate  It.  Industry  grew  apace,  and  the 
feeling  of  tranquillity  which  prevailed  among  the 
people  assisted  largely  In  the  development.  Agen- 
cies were  opened  In  European  centers  inviting 
settlers  to  come  to  Argentina,  revealing  the  great 
advantages  the  country  had  to  offer.  Foreign 
capital  was  attracted,  for  to  pursue- such  a  policy 
needed  ample  funds.  Public  works  were  inaugu- 
rated. Docks  were  built  at  Buenos  Aires,  and 
they  began  the  water  supply  and  drainage  building. 
In  1 88 1  the  government  of  the  province  of 
Buenos  Aires   selected   La   Plata   as   Its  capital 


The  Christ  of  the  Andes  181 

and  drew  up  plans  on  a  magnificent  scale  to  build 
there.  Thus  was  laid  the  foundation  of  the  beau- 
tiful city  of  Buenos  Aires.  From  this  time  the 
progress  of  the  country  was  unrestricted.  True, 
they  had  at  times  some  internal  dissensions,  but 
the  flower  of  civilization  had  been  planted  and 
nothing  could  stop  it.  The  development  of  the 
country  had  received  its  impetus  and  the  people 
were  fully  conscious  of  their  own  prosperity.  They 
were  cultivating  parts  of  their  great  country. 
They  knew  that  their  boundless  plains,  though 
bare,  were  fertile  where  water  could  be  provided 
for  them  or  where  the  rain  fell.  Indeed,  ever  since 
the  fall  of  Rosas  they  had  been  making  progress 
slowly.  Their  railroads  of  late  had  enabled  them 
to  have  well-appointed  farms,  and  today  their 
cattle  ranches  and  sheep  farms  raise  the  finest 
stock  in  the  world. 

Their  waving  fields  of  grass  across  the  pampas 
conceal  a  rich,  deep  loam.  This  makes  the  finest 
farming  land  to  be  found  anywhere.  These  rich 
estancias  have  been  mostly  tilled  by  Englishmen 
who  mean  to  live  on  them  the  rest  of  their  lives. 
Many  of  these  men  have  become  wealthy  both  by 
the  rapid  rise  in  the  value  of  their  land  and  by  the 
sale  of  cattle  and  grain.  They  live  most  comfort- 
ably in  houses  of  the  bungalow  style,  and  they 
bring  over  hard-working  little  Italians  from  the 
north  of  Italy  who  can  stand  the  heat  and  work 


182  Below  the  Equafor 

well  in  it.  They  keep  them  for  the  harvest-time, 
then  pay  them  enough  to  go  home  and  live  for  six 
months  in  Italy  again.  Of  course,  it  is  the  rail- 
roads Argentina  has  built  which  makes  all  this 
possible.  The  distance  across  the  pampas  is  im- 
mense and  no  other  way  of  covering  it  would  be 
possible. 

Settlers  naturally  choose  locations  near  the  rail- 
road, but  in  spite  of  the  cultivation  near  it  there 
are  enormous  areas  back  of  it  for  the  new  adven- 
turer. The  peons  are  best  qualified  to  handle  the 
live  stock,  but  the  Italian  better  understands  the 
agricultural  work.  Of  course,  there  is  a  great 
drawback  to  cultivation  here  —  the  drouth.  The 
average  rainfall  is  just  about  enough  to  give  a 
drink  and  a  little  grass  to  the  animals.  Therefore 
these  farms  cling  as  much  as  possible  to  the  foot 
of  the  Andes,  so  as  to  use  the  many  streams  which 
lie  in  these  mountain  valleys.  The  other  great 
horror  of  the  farmer  is  the  plague  of  the  locusts. 
These  creatures  here  swarm  in  such  vast  numbers 
that  it  is  practically  impossible  to  resist  them.  All 
sorts  of  things  have  been  done  to  destroy  them, 
the  commonest  method  being  to  dig  ditches  as 
they  walk  along  the  ground,  into  which  the  locusts 
fall  and  after  which  they  may  be  burned.  This 
method  is  not  very  successful,  however,  for  many 
of  them  rise  and  fly  away  the  moment  they  feel 
the  heat.    When  they  come  they  destroy  every- 


The  Christ  of  the  Andes  183 

thing  but  fortunately  their  visitations  are  far 
apart.  If  they  were  frequent  the  land  could  not 
be  tilled  at  all. 

Agriculture  and  the  raising  of  live  stock  are  the 
two  principal  industries  of  Argentina.  Though 
the  slopes  of  her  mountains  furnish  gold  and 
silver,  copper  and  lead,  her  wealth  in  these  pos- 
sessions is  not  to  be  compared  with  that  of  either 
Peru  or  Bolivia.  But  the  possibility  which  lies  in 
what  she  does  possess  is  so  great  that  Argentina 
is  justly  regarded  as  one  of  the  richest  countries 
of  the  lower  continent.  Seldom  has  nature  lav- 
ished greater  gifts  upon  a  people. 


CHAPTER  XXVI 

THE    BIRD   OF   THE   ANDES 

WITH  this  knowledge  of  her  Interesting  his- 
tory we  started  on  the  climb  which  would 
carry  us  across  into  Argentina.  We  saw  the  snow- 
covered  Aconcagua,  nearly  twenty-four  thousand 
feet  high,  and  below  It,  blue  as  a  turquoise, 
lying  at  the  foot  of  the  glacier  peak,  that  most 
incomparable  of  lakes.  Lake  Inca.  Gleaming  like 
a  rare  jewel,  this  lake  reminded  us  much  of 
Lake  Louise  in  Canada.  It  is  smaller,  but  it  pos- 
sesses that  wonderful  turquoise  blue  color  which 
the  tourist  finds  so  fascinating  in  the  Canadian 
West.  We  were  deeply  impressed  with  the  gran- 
deur and  the  glory  of  the  mountains.  Every  color, 
every  shade  of  the  rainbow  was  there.  The  peaks 
looked  ragged  and  sawtoothed,  and  with  the  Acon- 
cagua crowning  them  all  It  was  a  never-to-be- 
forgotten  sight.  We  followed  a  pretty  river  (the 
Aconcagua)  most  of  the  way.  The  gorges  which 
It  had  cut  and  the  picturesque  views  It  presented 
were  many.  The  curves  and  twists  of  the  railroad 
almost  made  us  shudder.  We  saw  evidences  of 
many  landslides  and  ran  through  miles  of  sheds 

184 


The  Bird  of  the  Andes  185 

which  had  been  built  to  protect  the  road;  we 
traveled  slowly,  and  although  the  way  was  danger- 
ous, there  was  constant  watchfulness.  The  men 
were  ever  on  the  alert.  Through  the  long  tunnel 
we  sped,  taking  eight  minutes  to  traverse  It,  right 
under  the  statue  of  the  Christ  of  the  Andes.  A 
pleasant  ( ?)  Idea  occurred  to  me  several  times. 
In  this  country  of  earthquakes,  what  would  be  the 
result  should  one  come  while  we  were  In  the 
tunnel?  I  was  considerate,  however;  I  did  not 
pass  on  my  thought  to  my  companion. 

We  emerged  from  the  tunnel  Into  Argentina 
and  still  found  a  vast  wilderness  of  gorgeous  rocks 
and  peaks.  One  of  the  first  stations  on  this  side 
Is  Puente  del  Inca,  where  there  Is  a  curious  forma- 
tion from  which  the  place  Is  named.  It  Is  a  natural 
bridge  of  stratified  rock,  one  of  nature's  marvels, 
and  rises  eighty  feet  above  the  river.  It  Is  a  fine 
arched  bridge  twenty  feet  wide,  thirty  feet  thick, 
and  about  a  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long.  It  Is  in 
constant  use  today. 

All  through  the  mountains  In  Chile  we  had  seen 
the  great  bird  of  the  Andes,  the  condor.  It  often 
attacks  the  animals,  the  pigs  and  sheep,  the  chil- 
dren, and  sometimes,  though  not  often,  a  grown 
man.  It  sometimes  roves  as  far  north  as  eight 
degrees  above  the  equator,  but  not  often.  Its 
range  takes  It  as  far  south  as  the  Straits  of  Ma- 
gellan.    In  the  winter  It  goes  near  the  coast,  but 


186  Below  the  Equator    * 

in  summer  it  is  to  be  found  only  amid  the  very 
highest  peaks.  It  is  here  that  they  rear  their 
young.  The  female  lays  but  two  eggs  a  year,  one 
in  November  and  one  in  December.  She  has  no 
nest,  but  hides  her  eggs  in  some  small  rock  and 
keeps  the  young  condor  there  until  it  is  able  to  fly, 
which  is  not  until  its  second  year.  This  bird  is  a 
deep  sleeper,  and  a  favorite  plan  of  the  natives 
while  hunting  it,  is  to  surprise  it  while  asleep. 
Hunting  the  condor  is  dangerous  sport.  The  trap- 
pers usually  put  a  carcass  out  in  the  sun  to  attract 
the  bird  and  then  lie  concealed  until  it  pounces 
down  upon  the  body.  The  bird  is  a  proverbial 
glutton  and  gorges  itself  until  it  is  so  heavy  it 
cannot  fly.  They  then  club  and  easily  lasso  it. 
It  fights  furiously,  of  course,  and  the  hunters  give 
it  respectful  attention !  They  are  wary  about  get- 
ting too  near  it,  as  the  scratch  from  the  beak  or 
claw  of  a  condor  is  as  fatal  as  the  bite  of  a  Gila 
monster. 

In  Santiago  there  are  some  wonderful  speci- 
mens of  the  condor,  measuring  nearly  twenty-four 
feet  from  tip  to  tip  of  the  wing  and  six  feet  from 
beak  to  tail.  The  body  is  heavy  in  proportion, 
and  they  are  brown  in  color.  It  looks  like  some 
gigantic  demon,  which  indeed  it  is.  They  fly 
exceedingly  high,  often  twenty  thousand  feet  above 
sea  level,  and  even  with  a  strong  glass  they  look 
like  swallows.     So  remarkable  is  their  breathing 


The  Bird  of  the  Andes  187 

power  that  even  at  this  great  height  they  circle 
around  with  scarcely  a  flap  of  the  wings.  The 
natives  hold  them  in  superstitious  awe  and  many 
weird  stories  are  told  about  them.  The  whole 
country  honors  them,  and  the  condor  is  much  used 
as  an  emblem,  being  emblazoned  on  their  shields 
everywhere,  like  our  eagle  in  the  United  States. 
In  the  season  when  the  bird  is  in  the  mountains, 
men  seldom  venture  out  alone  without  revolver 
or  gun. 

In  these  lofty  heights  strong  winds  prevail, 
often  sufficiently  strong  to  hurl  both  horse  and 
rider  from  his  track.  Below  Puente  del  Inca  we 
noticed  the  queer  tints  of  the  rock  and  the  jagged 
mountains.  These  are  called  penitentes.  They  are 
supposed  to  resemble  toiling  pilgrims,  and  the  cliff 
above  suggests  a  cathedral.  This  curious  forma- 
tion is  caused  by  the  action  of  the  sun  and  the  wind. 

We  passed  some  celebrated  baths  where,  if  one 
may  believe  the  pamphlets,  every  disease  known 
to  the  human  race  is  successfully  treated  I  The 
waters  at  Hotel  Inca  strongly  stimulate  the  nerv- 
ous system,  the  heart  action,  and  are  good  for  In- 
digestion. Because  they  are  so  stimulating,  people 
with  poor  hearts  should  never  go  there,  but,  hear- 
ing that  the  baths  are  good  for  everything,  the 
rash  flock  to  them  and  frequently  forfeit  their 
lives.  It  is  said  that  here  the  Indians  deceived  the 
Spaniards  and  hid  an  immense  quantity  of  gold. 


CHAPTER  XXVII 

MENDOZA 

WE  LEFT  the  mountains  at  Mendoza. 
Older  than  Buenos  Aires  and  having  been 
once  destroyed  by  one  of  the  most  terrible  quakes 
which  ever  visited  the  country,  it  is  a  most  inter- 
esting little  spot.  This  earthquake  was  of  the  most 
peculiar  character.  A  subterranean  groan  was 
heard,  and  in  an  instant,  without  further  warning, 
houses  crumbled,  people  in  the  houses  were  killed 
to  the  number  of  fifteen  thousand,  and  those  who 
happened  to  be  outside  were  thrown  to  the  ground 
and  badly  injured.  Fire  broke  out,  and  so  many 
were  dead  and  injured  that  the  living  were  not 
sufficient  to  care  for  and  bury  them.  It  is  said 
that  the  odors  from  the  dead  bodies  became  insup- 
portable. The  shocks  lasted  until  nothing  was  left 
standing.  There  were  nineteen  in  twenty-four 
hours,  seventeen  of  which  were  violent.  They 
continued  for  about  three  months,  diminishing  in 
time  and  violence.  There  was  much  talk  at  the 
time  of  changing  the  location  of  the  city,  but, 
incredible  as  it  seems,  the  people  refused  to  move. 
They  rebuilt  the  city,  but  in  much  lighter  style. 

188 


Mendoza  189 


I  was  not  familiar  with  this  particular  bit  of 
history  in  regard  to  Mendoza,  else  perhaps  I 
should  not  have  enjoyed  it  as  much  as  I  did.  My 
husband,  however,  was  better  informed.  He  in- 
sisted on  going  to  a  certain  little  hotel  which  with 
its  one  story  I  thought  far  less  attractive  than 
some  of  the  others.  He  seemed  determined  to 
spend  the  night  in  this  queer  looking,  ugly  little 
spot,  the  only  redeeming  feature  of  which  was 
its  open-air  dining-room,  a  beautiful  patio  sur-* 
rounded  with  plants  and  flowers.  "Why  are  you 
so  persistent  about  staying  here?"  I  asked  him. 
He  replied,  "I  have  a  reason."  No  amount  of 
persuasion  could  induce  him  to  tell  me  this  reason 
until  we  had  left  Mendoza.  That  hotel  was  in- 
sured against  earthquakes,  the  walls  so  built  that 
in  case  of  such  a  disturbance,  loss  of  life  would 
be  at  its  minimum.  My  wise  better  half  had  not 
opened  his  mind  to  me,  knowing  full  well  that  I 
should  not  sleep  so  comfortably  in  this  little  hotel 
if  he  should  do  so.  We  greatly  enjoyed  our  din- 
ner in  the  open  patio.  The  night  was  soft,  the  air 
heavy  with  sweet  fragrance  of  flowers,  the  great 
luminous  stars  overhead.  In  the  distance  we 
heard  low  strains  of  music,  curious  melodies.  We 
were  the  only  Americans  there,  the  other  tables 
being  occupied  by  Argentinas. 

Suddenly  a  procession  of  young  men  came  by 
carrying  banners  and  flags.    They  were  accom- 


190  Below  the  Equator 

panied  by  the  band  playing  martial  music,  for 
here  as  elsewhere  the  news  of  the  great  conflict 
in  Europe  is  of  the  greatest  interest.  That  very 
morning,  cables  had  assured  us  that  the  United 
States  was  close  to  war.  We  tried  not  to  beheve 
it,  but  it  was  the  weightiest  thought  in  our  minds.^ 
This  procession  carried,  of  course,  the  flag  of  their 
own  country  and  that  of  France,  and  what  was 
our  pleasure  to  see  in  the  center  the  flag  of  the 
United  States!  Argentina,  although  absolutely 
neutral,  was  in  some  manner  known  to  be  favor- 
ably incHned  toward  anything  which  the  United 
States  endorsed.  It  gave  us  a  thrill  to  see  our 
own  flag  carried  by  these  young  people,  and 
strangers  at  the  other  table  looked  at  us  and 
smiled  pleasantly. 

Mendoza  is  the  center  of  the  grape  country. 
It  is  impossible  to  attempt  a  description  of  their 
wonderful  vineyards,  the  grapes  of  which  are  the 
largest  and  most  delicious  I  have  ever  seen.  When 
we  took  our  way  on  from  Mendoza  we  found  that 
a  generous  friend,  Seiior  Aldao,  from  Buenos 
Aires,  had  telegraphed  and  sent  a  large  box 
of  choice  grapes  to  our  stateroom  for  us.  Men- 
doza is  a  popular  winter  resort  for  the  Argen- 
tinas  on  account  of  the  beautiful  surroundings, 
cloudless  skies,  and  superb  views.  But  we  felt 
that  a  place  where  the  temperature  Is  often  in  the 
forties,  and  where  they  never  have  a  fire,  would 


Mendoza  191 


be  a  trifle  chilly.  Though  we  missed  the  wonder- 
ful statue  of  the  Christ,  we  saw  here  the  heroic 
one  of  San  Martin,  a  view  of  which  alone  would 
have  been  worth  a  trip  to  South  America. 

The  approach  to  this  statue  Is  very  beautiful, 
constantly  winding  and  unwinding  as  it  climbs  the 
hill.  A  pretty  park  Is  at  Its  base,  where  there 
was  a  keeper,  and  half  way  up  the  mountain  a 
charming  little  home  in  which  he  lived.  Strange 
as  It  may  seem,  many  vandals  have  attempted  to 
injure  this  artistic  figure.  We  were  stopped  on 
the  way  for  just  a  moment  by  the  guard,  who 
questioned  us  and  then  permitted  us  to  pass.  The 
statue  stands  high  on  the  hill,  at  the  outskirts  of 
the  town.  Off  in  the  distance,  as  far  as  the  eye 
can  see,  are  the  Andes,  dignified  and  solemn,  look- 
ing down  upon  It.  A  huge  flying  figure  of  Victory 
overtops  the  monument,  spreading  out  her  arms 
protectingly  over  San  Martin,  who  is  seated 
below  on  his  horse.  Around  the  base  are  scenes 
of  war  and  colossal  figures,  all  in  bronze,  in  bas- 
relief.  Horses,  men,  angels,  and  the  condor,  the 
eagle  of  South  America,  with  wings  outstretched, 
are  beautifully  conceived  and  finely  executed  by 
great  artists.  These  figures  are  all  life  size.  They 
hold  that  this  is  the  finest  statue  of  Its  kind  in  the 
world,  and  we  could  well  believe  it.  Wherever 
we  turned  in  South  America  we  heard  it  discussed. 
They  regard  it  as  a  much  finer  piece  of  work  than 


192  Below  the  Equator 

the  statue  of  Christ.  Strange  that  we  had  never 
heard  it  spoken  of  in  our  own  country.  We  saw 
nothing  else  to  compare  with  it  in  this  land  of 
statues.  South  America  never  tires  of  honoring 
her  heroes,  and  the  spirit  of  patriotism  which  this 
engenders  is  quite  worth  while.  Also,  one  has  to 
be  pretty  familiar  with  the  history  of  this  country 
to  be  able  to  remember  her  streets.  We  found  it 
odd,  but  thought  it  a  fine  custom,  that  many  of 
their  streets  are  named  for  their  heroes  or  else  for 
some  historic  event,  some  victory  which  is  dear  to 
them.  It  is  quite  common  here  to  read  such  names 
as  Calle  i^th  de  Novembre,  or  Calle  gth  Decem- 
bre,  or  Avenue  General  O'Higgins,  and  so  forth. 
This  custom  keeps  constantly  in  the  minds  of  the 
young  the  fact  that  their  country  does  not  forget 
its  heroes  I 

We  were  amused  by  the  comical  method  of 
watering  the  streets  here.  Boys  carry  buckets  on 
long  poles.  Dipping  water  from  a  stream  which 
runs  along  one  of  the  principal  streets,  they  then 
throw  the  water  upon  the  driveway.  Most  of  the 
houses  here  are  one  story,  none  of  them  more 
than  two.  This  is,  of  course,  because  of  the  earth- 
quakes. Here  also  we  were  told  that  the  many 
trees  made  the  heat  more  intense.  We  had  always 
supposed  that  trees  giving  shade  would  cool  the 
atmosphere.  Here  they  hold  that  they  stop  the 
breeze  and  make  the  air  hot  and  unhealthy. 


CHAPTER  XXVIII 

THE   PAMPAS 

LEAVING  the  luxurious  vineyards,  we  crossed 
the  hot  pampas  with  its  farms  of  cattle  and 
ostriches.  We  saw  a  great  many  of  the  latter. 
Here  they  call  them  rheas.  Once  there  were  thou- 
sands of  them  and  they  ranged  as  far  south  as 
Patagonia,  but  man,  by  ruthless  slaughter,  has 
caused  the  number  to  dwindle.  We  were  not  near 
enough  to  study  the  bird  closely,  but  from  a  dis- 
tance it  looked  exactly  like  those  on  North  Ameri- 
can ostrich  farms,  except  a  little  smaller.  It  has 
three  toes,  one  more  than  the  ostrich  of  the 
North,  but  the  feathers  are  not  so  beautiful. 
However,  the  general  appearance  is  about  the 
same.  The  male  is  said  to  have  many  wives. 
They  nest  in  the  dry  grass,  and  at  the  approach 
of  danger  the  female  rises  and  deserts  her  young. 
The  gauchos  (cowboys)  are  fond  of  chasing 
the  ostrich  just  for  sport.  The  poor  bird  has 
no  means  of  escape  except  in  flight.  But  she 
certainly  is  fleet  of  foot  and  possesses  endu- 
rance in  a  marked  degree.  She  usually  escapes. 
The  rhea  lives  in  contentment  with  the  grazing 

193 


194  Below  the  Equator 

llamas  and  wild  cattle.  They  all  seem  quite 
sociable. 

For  a  hundred  and  eighty  miles  our  train  ran 
In  an  absolutely  straight  line  across  this  pampas  — 
a  most  glorious  stretch  of  railroad.  We  saw  many 
locusts,  although  the  great  swarm  had  passed 
three  months  before.  They  had  proved  a  veri- 
table plague  then,  covering  the  tracks,  clogging 
the  trains,  and  thus  delaying  traffic.  The  pampas 
—  a  bare,  open  prairie  with  grass  and  flowers,  the 
former  sometimes  six  feet  high  —  has  no  trees 
and  few  streams.  Yet  the  land  is  fertile.  It  is 
the  absence  of  rain  which  forbids  cultivation. 

After  twenty-four  hours  on  a  far  from  com- 
fortable train,  we  reached  Buenos  Aires.  A  word 
about  this  train.  From  the  American  standpoint 
it  was  uncomfortable  and  bare.  But  the  road  was 
excellent.  For  a  hundred  and  eighty  miles  It 
runs  in  an  absolutely  straight  line,  and  is  consid- 
ered by  the  Argentinas  (who  have  good  roads) 
their  very  best.  But  the  officials  seem  not  to  care 
much  for  the  comfort  of  the  people  whom  they 
carry  across  this  road.  Any  old  kind  of  a  car, 
it  seems,  will  do  to  put  them  in.  Often  when  I 
lay  stretched  out  on  my  hard  bed  (with  no  springs) 
I  wished  I  could  take  some  of  those  who  were  now 
traveling  with  me,  and  who  thought  they  were 
sitting  in  the  greatest  luxury,  Into  one  of  our 
**  Limiteds,"  where  manicures,  barbers,  stenogra- 


The  Pampas  195 


phers,  and  maids  are  employed  for  the  comfort 
of  those  already  installed  in  luxurious  compart- 
ments. How  they  would  open  their  eyes!  Not 
even  our  tourist  cars  or  third-class  compartments 
are  as  plain  and  bare  as  these,  their  best  ones. 

But  at  last  we  reached  Buenos  Aires  —  majes- 
tic, clean,  with  well-paved  streets,  sumptuous  pal- 
aces for  homes  —  the  Paris  of  South  America. 
No  description  can  do  justice  to  its  charm  and 
delight.  Here  we  met  friends,  Seiior  Aldao  and 
family,  who  took  us  everywhere  and  showed  us 
such  hospitality  as  we  had  seldom  enjoyed.  The 
city  made  a  profound  impression  upon  me.  Its 
public  buildings,  theaters,  etc.,  compare  favorably 
with  those  of  any  large  city  in  the  world.  In  some 
respects  it  made  us  think  a  good  deal  of  Chicago. 
It  is  located  on  the  frontier  of  a  great  prairie,  with 
a  large  body  of  fresh  water,  the  river  La  Plata, 
in  front  of  it.  This  river  is  formed  by  the  join- 
ing of  two  others,  the  Parana  and  the  Uruguay, 
and  together  they  make  the  greatest  basin  in  the 
world.  The  river  is  about  thirty  miles  wide  and 
a  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  long.  It  runs 
from  Buenos  Aires  to  Montevideo.  The  Avenida 
de  Mayo  contains  most  of  the  hotels.  We'  were 
comfortably  located  at  the  Plaza,  and  I  cannot 
exaggerate  the  comforts  of  this  place.  It  is  under 
the  same  management  as  the  Ritz-Carlton  and  has 
comfortable  beds,  large  rooms,  beautiful  baths. 


196  Below  the  Equator 

and  an  excellent  cuisine.  Not  even  in  Paris  had 
we  ever  enjoyed  more  delicious  cooking.  The 
hotel  itself  is  a  model  of  luxury.  It  has  ballrooms, 
private  dining-rooms,  etc.,  and  after  the  bareness 
of  the  western  coast  it  seemed  like  a  paradise. 
There  are  many  others  in  the  city  almost  as  good. 

We  had  traveled  so  steadily  for  so  many  months 
that,  although  our  appetites  had  never  failed  us, 
neither  of  us  had  taken  on  flesh.  Both  of  us  were 
strongly  imbued  with  the  idea  (modern  thought) 
that  to  be  agreeable  in  the  sight  of  one's  friends 
one  must  be  thin !  Therefore  it  was  with  delight 
that  we  discovered  in  Buenos  Aires  that  we  had 
not  gained.  But,  alas  I  After  eight  or  ten  days* 
stay  in  this  city  this  comforting  thought  melted 
away.  We  gained  considerably  because  of  the 
tempting  and  delectable  dishes  which  we  were 
unable  to  resist. 

The  golf  clubs,  tennis  courts,  swimming  pools, 
and  statues  to  heroes  here  are  things  of  beauty. 
A  monument  to  San  Martin  in  the  Palermo,  their 
lovely  plaza,  is  an  exquisite  thing — so  dainty  and 
withal  so  spirited.  Carved  of  the  purest  white 
marble,  it  stands  as  a  glorious  evidence  of  the 
honor  in  which  this  man  was  held. 

San  Martin  was  born  on  February  25,  1778, 
of  a  Creole  mother  and  a  Spanish  officer,  in  a 
small  mission  town  of  the  Jesuits  on  the  Uruguay 
River.    He  went  to  Spain  at  an  early  age  and  was 


The  Pampas  197 


given  the  best  military  training.  He  served  in 
many  wars  before  he  came  back  to  the  Argentine, 
but  this  service  and  the  liberal  ideas  he  imbibed 
made  him  the  greatest  hero,  perhaps,  of  his  coun- 
try. He  stands  in  South  America  as  Washington 
stands  with  us.  He  Is  recognized  as  the  savior  of 
South  America  and  the  winner  of  her  independ- 
ence. When  he  returned  to  the  Argentine  he  spent 
several  years  drilling  an  army  which  he  had 
formed  for  the  purpose  of  invading  Chile.  In 
1 87 1,  in  a  famous  battle,  he  gave  that  country 
her  independence. 

The  lessons  he  had  learned  while  abroad  made 
him  master  of  his  calling.  He  understood  how  to 
control  an  army.  It  was  by  great  strategy  and 
the  maneuvering  of  his  army  that  he  gained  the 
victory  which  set  Chile  free.  Peru  was  then  the 
stronghold  of  Spanish  power  in  South  America. 
Hidden  behind  mountains,  surrounded  by  the  des- 
ert and  the  ocean,  she  seemed  impossible  to  subdue. 
Yet  he  felt  that  he  must  defeat  the  Spanish  forces 
In  Peru  if  he  was  to  gain  his  ends.  It  was  a  diffi- 
cult problem  to  face.  He  solved  It  by  getting  his 
army  on  the  eastern  slope  of  the  Andes  and  Im- 
provising a  fleet  In  such  a  way  as  to  attack  Peru 
from  the  coast.  To  everyone  except  San  Martin 
himself  It  seemed  a  complicated  scheme,  but  his 
persistence  won.  He  had  a  solution  for  every 
contingency,  a  wise  answer  for  every  objection, 


198  Below  the  Equator 

and  he  carried  out  his  plans  in  silence  and  in 
triumph.  Indeed,  the  independence  of  South 
America  has  been  written  in  the  biographies  of 
San  Martin  and  Bolivar. 

The  chief  of  San  Martin's  Chilean  allies  was 
O'Higgins.  He  had  concentrated  his  forces  in 
the  Aconcagua  Valley,  separated  from  Santiago 
by  a  range  of  mountains.  He  figured  that  from 
the  top  of  the  pass  he  could  control  everything. 
The  Spaniards,  under  General  Marco,  the  Spanish 
governor,  held  the  valley.  San  Martin  got  his 
infantry  and  cavalry  into  an  abandoned  road  tun- 
ing over  the  summit  from  east  to  west,  and  through 
this  line  of  protection  O'Higgins  started  with 
eighteen  hundred  men.  San  Martin  was  waiting 
for  his  appearance  on  the  heights  above.  O'Hig- 
gins saw  the  enemy  and  attacked  them  at  once. 
The  Spaniards  were  unprepared  for  the  assault 
and  were  at  a  great  disadvantage.  However,  they 
formed  a  square  and  for  a  time  defended  them- 
selves bravely.  But  the  end  was  inevitable,  and, 
with  half  their  number  gone,  they  were  obliged  to 
break  and  retreat.  Less  than  half  escaped,  but 
the  patriots  lost  only  twelve  killed  and  a  hundred 
and  twenty  wounded. 

The  battle  of  Chacabuco  was  decisive  in  the 
struggle  between  Spain  and  her  revolting  colonies. 
The  day  after  this  battle  the  Spanish  governor 
had  to  flee  from  Santiago.    Chile  became  and  has 


The  Pampas  199 


ever  since  remained  independent,  and  in  Argen- 
tina all  talk  of  Portuguese  princes  and  compro- 
mises with  Spain  ceased.  The  national  spirit  had 
been  thoroughly  aroused.  South  America  would 
never  again  lose  her  independence. 

The  rest  of  San  Martin's  history,  alas,  is  not 
so  pleasant  to  relate.  He  made  his  old  friend 
O'Higgins  dictator  of  Chile,  but  he  himself  had 
an  undying  ambition  and  continued  to  fight  the 
Spanish  positions  all  along  the  coast  of  Peru.  His 
friends  at  Buenos  Aires  were  begging  him  to  re- 
turn and  help  crush  their  enemies,  who  during  his 
absence  had  broken  out  in  one  of  their  famous 
revolutions.  But  his  personal  ambition  in  regard 
to  the  western  coast  made  him  refuse  his  friends' 
requests.  He  turned  a  deaf  ear  to  the  proposal, 
and  Argentina  considered  this  an  effront.  She 
never  forgave  him  while  he  lived,  but  looked  upon 
him  as  selfish  for  not  returning  to  them.  He  offered 
his  services  to  Bolivar,  who  refused  them.  It  was 
this  spectacular  interview  between  these  two  men 
which  ended  San  Martin's  career.  He  offered 
no  complaint  of  Bolivar's  rejection  of  his  offer, 
although  it  cut  him  deeply,  but  gave  up  the  army 
and  the  dictatorship  of  Peru,  which  he  had  held 
for  seven  years.  He  knew  that  he  was  no  longer 
in  favor  in  Argentina,  yet  he  submitted  in  silence 
to  the  reproach  of  cowardice  rather  than  discuss 
the  treatment  he  had  received  from  the  hands  of 


200  Below  the  Equator 

his  friends.  He  preferred  to  sacrifice  home,  hon- 
ors, and  money,  even  reputation  itself,  rather  than 
jeopardize  the  independence  of  his  country.  He 
went  to  Paris,  and  to  the  generosity  of  a  Spaniard, 
who  was  not  even  his  own  countryman,  he  was 
indebted  to  some  comforts  in  his  last  days.  He 
died  in  1850,  of  an  aneurism  of  the  heart,  at  the 
age  of  seventy-two.  Later  on  South  America 
learned  to  appreciate  his  worth.  They  brought 
back  his  remains  and  have  since  held  them  sacred. 
Chile  and  the  Argentine  have  erected  statues  to 
his  memory,  as  has  also  Peru.  He  stands  a  great 
and  pathetic  figure  in  the  history  of  South 
America. 


CHAPTER  XXIX 

BUENOS   AIRES 

SENOR  ALDAO'S  beautiful  white  marble 
palace  In  Buenos  Aires,  facing  Palermo  Park, 
is  a  good  type  of  the  well-to-do  family  home.  Its 
spacious  rooms,  filled  with  rare  and  costly  furni- 
ture, pictures,  silver,  bric-a-brac,  were  tasteful  and 
delightful  to  the  eye.  Nearly  every  room  opened 
off  Into  a  screened  balcony  with  awnings,  potted 
plants,  rare  ferns,  and  flowers.  These  screened 
porches  were  as  much  a  part  of  the  rooms,  espe- 
cially the  bedrooms,  as  were  the  luxurious  private 
baths.  The  house  itself  is  enormous  and  covers  a 
great  deal  of  ground  in  the  most  fashionable  part 
of  the  city.  We  considered  it  a  privilege  to  be 
entertained  and  enjoy  the  hospitality  of  the  gener- 
ous occupants  of  this  home. 

Though  Seiior  Aldao  was  a  very  busy  man,  and 
had  been  so  ever  since  at  twenty-six  he  was  made 
Minister  of  Finance  in  Buenos  Aires,  he  gave  us 
much  of  his  time.  His  title  of  Doctor  was  be- 
stowed upon  him  because  of  his  reputation  as  a 
distinguished  lawyer.  A  man  in  his  early  fifties 
now  he   is  one  of  the  most  illustrious  men  of 

201 


202  Below  the  Equator 

his  country.  His  reputation  for  honesty  and  integ- 
rity, as  well  as  for  ability,  causes  him  to  be  con- 
stantly consulted  in  matters  of  government,  and 
he  has  more  than  once  been  selected  by  the  presi- 
dent to  represent  his  country  when  important 
things  demanded  discussion  at  Washington.  He 
knew  many  of  our  eminent  statesmen  in  the  United 
States,  and  spoke  English  perfectly,  as  did  all  his 
family.  We  had  had  the  pleasure  of  making  his 
acquaintance  in  our  own  country,  and  we  appre- 
ciated the  fact  that  a  man  who  had  to  make 
appointments  weeks  ahead  should  spend  so  many 
hours  with  us  while  we  were  in  Buenos  Aires.  His 
charming  wife,  daughters,  and  sons  added  much 
to  the  pleasure  of  our  stay,  and  the  delightful 
luncheons,  dinners,  and  excursions  we  had  together 
will  stand  out  in  our  memory  as  our  happiest  and 
brightest  moments  in  their  country. 

Buenos  Aires  struck  us  as  being  thoroughly 
alive  in  all  respects.  The  motto  of  the  western 
coast — mahana  —  does  not  exist  there.  The  pub- 
lic buildings  impress  one  forcibly.  The  new  Colon 
Theater,  recently  erected  at  great  expense,  is 
superb.  Their  School  of  Medicine,  Court  of  Jus- 
tice^  Palace  of  Fine  Arts,  and  their  famous  cathe- 
dral with  its  electric  lights  queerly  twined  about 
the  pillars,  all  show  that  the  people  are  not  nig- 
gardly in  spending  money  to  beautify  their  city. 
The   Avenida   de   Mayo   is   one   of  their  finest 


Photo    by    Carter    H.    Harrison 

Cathedral.  Buenos  Aires 


I 


Buenos  Aires  203 


streets,  planted  with  long  rows  of  trees  and  con- 
taining many  beautiful  residences.  The  Avenida 
de  Florida  is  much  narrower  and  is  their  prin- 
cipal shopping  street.  It  is  so  crowded  from  five 
to  seven  in  the  evening  that  no  vehicles  are  per- 
mitted to  enter  it.  Here,  as  in  all  other  parts  of 
South  America,  from  eleven  until  two  the  siesta 
is  taken,  and  business  men  work  from  three  in 
the  afternoon  until  eight.  Invitations  for  dinner 
are  always  for  nine  or  nine-thirty.  I  was  suffi- 
ciently curious  to  ask  what  they  did  during  the 
opera  season,  and  was  told  that  the  opera  never 
began  before  nine-thirty  and  that  a  hurried  dinner 
served  at  a  quarter  to  nine  enabled  the  fashion- 
ables to  enter  at  the  beginning  of  the  performance, 
which  was  seldom  before  a  quarter  to  ten. 

We  tried  to  accustom  ourselves  to  this  Parisian 
mode  of  life,  but  as  three  of  my  servants  in  the 
United  States  who  have  been  with  me  for  twenty 
years  regard  my  dinner  hour  (a  quarter  to  seven) 
as  unreasonably  late,  it  was  hard  to  get  broken  in. 
I  remember  one  night  in  particular,  after  a  de- 
lightful dinner  at  the  hotel  with  some  New  York 
friends,  we  left  the  dining-room  at  eleven  o'clock. 
As  we  passed  through  into  the  reception-room  a 
fashionable  young  blood  whom  we  knew,  ap- 
proached one  of  our  guests  and  said  to  him, 
"What  are  you  going  to  do  this  evening?''  I 
remarked  upon  the  lateness  of  the  hour  and  was 


204  Below  the  Equator 

told  by  this  young  man  that  nobody  there  began 
his  evening  until  after  eleven  at  night !  My  blank 
look  must  have  been  a  surprise  to  him. 

Their  Jockey  Club,  both  in  the  city  and  on  the 
outskirts  where  the  races  are  held,  is  world-famed. 
Its  waiting  list  is  long,  and  its  entrance  fee  of 
fifteen  hundred  dollars  gives  them  so  much  money 
that  they  do  not  know  how  to  use  it.  The  city 
edifice  is  probably  the  finest  club  in  the  world. 
Among  other  attractions  it  possesses  a  famous 
statue  of  Diana.  The  club  in  the  outskirts  of  the 
city  has  a  spacious  promenade  in  front  of  the  seats, 
is  filled  with  pretty  tea  tables  where  beautifully 
dressed  women  accompanied  by  their  cahalleros  sit 
and  enjoy  their  afternoon  beverage.  Everybody 
bets  on  the  races.  The  youngest  girl  is  just  as 
excited  as  the  oldest  man.  It  is  all  very  gay  and 
informal  and  really  is  a  wonderful  place  to  see 
the  best  society  of  the  city.  The  track  is  one  of 
the  finest  in  any  country.  The  grand-stand  is  very 
attractive,  constructed  of  stone,  concrete,  and  tile. 

Near  Palermo  Park  is  the  Ice  Palace.  It  never 
freezes  in  South  America,  of  course,  but  they  make 
the  ice  electrically  and  the  people  enjoy  the  skating 
very  much.  We  did  not  see  the  palace  in  opera- 
tion, as  it  is  used  only  in  winter,  and  we  were 
there  in  April,  their  early  fall.  It  must  be  inter- 
esting to  see  people  wrapped  in  furs  skating  in 
a  climate  where  it  never  freezes  I 


Buenos  Aires  205 


The  Cathedral  of  Buenos  Aires  is  considered 
one  of  their  most  imposing  buildings.  The  ornate 
pillars  with  Corinthian  style  of  decoration  run- 
ning across  the  whole  of  the  front  make  a  showy 
fagade.  In  this  church  is  the  tomb  of  San  Mar- 
tin. All  the  pillars  are  electrically  lighted  and 
the  effect  is  dazzling. 

In  the  heart  of  the  city  the  Calle  Florida  is  the 
fashionable  promenade.  It  is  but  ten  blocks  long, 
has  excellent  shops,  but  no  street  cars.  It  contains 
a  few  fine  residences  which  look  very  odd  in  the 
midst  of  the  shopping  district,  but  originally  it  was 
a  beautiful  residence  street,  and  a  few  of  the  old- 
timers  have  refused  to  move  away.  They  have 
walled  in  their  stately  homes  so  that  the  inte- 
rior of  their  balconies  and  roof  gardens  cannot  be 
seen  from  the  street.  Thus  they  have  Insured  their 
own  privacy,  but  it  was  queer  to  see  these  cream- 
colored  stone  walls  rising  a  full  story  from  the 
street. 

Like  the  other  cities,  Buenos  Aires  has  honored 
the  memory  of  her  heroes  in  the  names  of  the 
streets  and  In  artistic  statuary.  We  enjoyed  the 
museum,  which  contains  many  interesting  things. 
The  house  of  the  president  is  known  as  the  Pink 
House,  just  as  our  own  Is  called  the  White  House. 
It  Is  a  magnificent  building,  tastefully  furnished, 
and  containing  every  mode'rn  comfort.  The 
present  president,  however,  does  not  occupy  it. 


206  Below  the  Equator 

He  is  very  modest  In  his  tastes  and  uses  it  only 
for  official  business.  His  own  residence  is  a  very 
unassuming  little  home. 

The  Zoological  Gardens  are  wonderfully  Inter- 
esting. The  house  of  the  zebus  fascinated  us  for 
quite  a  while.  They  have  many  and  remarkable 
specimens  of  animals  and  some  beautifully  colored 
zebras.  I  never  see  one  of  the  latter  without 
thinking  of  the  story  of  the  little  boy  who  was 
taken  to  the  circus  for  the  first  time.  He  was 
greatly  Interested,  of  course,  in  everything  that 
he  saw,  but  at  first  glance  at  the  zebra  he  turned 
to  his  mother  and  exclaimed  enthusiastically,  "  O 
Mother,  look  at  the  mule  In  Its  bathing  suit  1 " 
We  saw  many  mules  here  In  beautiful  bathing 
suits. 

The  visitor  to  Buenos  Aires  should  not  fail  to 
take  an  excursion  to  El  Tigre,  the  fashionable 
summer  and  boating  resort.  This  pretty  little 
place  at  the  juncture  of  the  Tigre  and  La  Plate 
rivers  Is  a  joy  to  see.  Many  small  Islands  with 
trees,  gardens,  and  picturesque  houses  are  seen, 
and  on  the  shore  are  pretty  hotels  where  there  is 
music  and  other  attractions.  The  wealthy  fashion- 
ables of  Buenos  Aires  lounge  about  or  dance  In 
the  evening.  There  Is  also  the  Mar  del  Plata, 
which  Is  the  Newport  of  South  America.  This  Is 
a  more  exclusive  place,  about  two  hundred  and 
fifty  miles  from  Buenos  Aires.    Here  one  finds  a 


Buenos  Aires  207 


veritable  city  of  ten  thousand  or  more  inhabit- 
ants, with  fine  boulevards,  splendid  chalets, 
casino,  theaters,  golf  courses,  and  fine  bathing 
equipment 


CHAPTER  XXX 

ESTANCIAS 

WHEN  we  left  home  there  was  one  spot 
which  we  were  determined  not  to  miss.  No 
matter  whatever  else  we  had  to  forego,  we  meant 
to  see  Iguassu  Falls.  But  alas  for  our  plans !  Here 
in  Buenos  Aires,  only  a  paltry  thousand  miles  from 
this  spot,  we  realized  that  we  would  have  to  cur- 
tail our  trip.  Should  war  be  declared  by  our  own 
country,  which  was  now  not  a  possibility  but  a 
probability,  we  should  wish  to  return  immediately, 
of  course.  Reluctantly,  therefore,  we  abandoned 
this  long-cherished  wish  until  some  more  auspi- 
cious date.  These  falls  are  the  greatest  in  the 
world.  They  are  larger  than  Niagara,  fifty  feet 
higher,  and  contain  much  more  water.  In  order 
to  reach  them  one  goes  up  the  Parana  River  as 
far  as  possible,  then  finishes  the  journey  on  horse- 
back. It  Is  a  hard  and  tiresome  trip,  but  all  who 
have  taken  it  assure  one  that  It  Is  well  worth  while. 
The  falls  lie  partly  In  Brazil  and  partly  In  Argen- 
tina, In  the  midst  of  primeval  tropical  forest.  The 
water  leaps  from  tremendous  heights,  over  masses 
of  rock,  and  presents  a  gorgeous  view.    Showers 

208 


Estancias  209 

of  spray  form  glorious  rainbows,  and  the  roar  of 
the  falls  can  be  heard  for  miles.  Our  great 
Niagara  suffers  in  comparison,  as  it  lacks  the 
magical  beauty  of  the  tropical  surroundings.  The 
Argentine  government  is  fully  alive  to  the  value 
of  this  wonderful  show  place  so  near,  and  is  plan- 
ning for  the  development  here  of  a  national  park, 
knowing  well  that  travelers  from  Europe  and 
America  will  flock  to  see  it  just  as  soon  as  they 
can  be  made  comfortable  there. 

The  women  of  Argentina  are  famous  for  their 
beauty,  but  they  take  on  flesh  at  an  early  age. 
Still,  they  are  certainly  *'easy  to  the  eye,"  and  the 
men  no  less  so.  We  were  filled  with  longing  to 
linger  in  Buenos  Aires,  but  a  short  ten  days  was 
all  we  could  give.  We  spent  one  day  on  one  of 
the  famous  bull  and  sheep  farms  where  sixty  prize 
bulls  were  shown  us.  We  had  the  unique  expe- 
rience of  having  a  whole  sheep  roasted  on  a  spit 
in  the  open,  before  the  hot  coals,  and  later  served 
to  us  at  luncheon.  We  felt  that  we  were  fortunate 
in  receiving  an  invitation  to  visit  this  estancia. 
The  owner  possessed  an  almost  countless  herd  of 
cattle  and  was  accounted  one  of  the  most  influen- 
tial and  the  wealthiest  men  in  Argentina.  It  had 
been  our  good  fortune  to  meet  Senor  Pereda  out 
in  the  far  western  part  of  Canada,  where  he  was 
traveling  with  his  daughter  and  son,  both  grown, 
and  a  friend  of  the  daughter.    He  spent  a  year  In 


210  Below  the  Equator 

•  America,  studying  the  large  stock  farms  (from 
some  of  which  he  selected  fine  bulls)  and  taking 
notes  on  their  methods,  in  case  he  desired  any 
improvements  when  he  returned  home.  We  often 
heard  through  others  of  his  splendid  methods  of 
caring  for  his  prize  cattle  and  sheep.  We  were 
shown  much  that  was  of  Interest  to  us  on  this 
estancia  which  he  had  chosen  for  his  home  during 
the  summer.  Senor  Pereda's  wife  was  a 
woman  of  delightful  personality  and  strength- 
ened the  friendship  we  already  felt  for  them. 
She  was  a  skilled  musician,  spoke  many  lan- 
guages, and,  with  all  her  wealth,  was  simple  and 
unaffected,  as  were  also  the  other  members  of  her 

^    family. 

We  wandered  over  the  beautiful  gardens  and 
fields  and  enjoyed  the  novelty,  nowadays,  of  being 
driven  In  a  four-in-hand  by  Senorita  Pereda  over 
their  vast  acres.  Because  hitherto,  as  the  whole 
world  seems  to  do,  we  had  been  flying  from  place 
to  place  In  swift-speeding  motor  cars.  This  hand- 
some turn-out  was  her  own  possession,  and  spir- 
ited as  the  animals  were  (they  had  to  be  held  by 
two  men  while  they  were  standing),  they  were 
not  at  all  ugly  after  she  took  the  reins.  We  went 
at  a  lively  gait  across  the  country.  Owing  to  the 
fact  that  this  estancia  Is  so  near  Buenos  Aires,  It 
is  especially  valuable.  All  land  here  is  valuable, 
and  although  the  cattle  and  sheep  raising  farms 


I 


^a^y^fejfc^jg^,. . 

_^    ^\ 

,^^  .^                 j^^^l^H 

^ 

Photo    by    Carter    H.    Harrison 

An  Argentinian  Estancia 


Photo    b3'    Carter    H.    Harrison 

Ml'nicipal   Theater,    Santos,    Brazil 


Estancias  211 

are  scattered  over  the  country,  this  one,  because 
of  Its  proximity,  was  the  richest.  It  gave  us  pleas- 
ure to  know  that  our  friends  possessed  It  and  that 
we  could  have  the  opportunity  of  spending  a  day 
with  them.  Our  time  was  becoming  limited,  how- 
ever; so  reluctantly  we  were  off,  with  a  promise 
to  return  on  the  homeward  trip. 

One  of  the  great  sights  of  Buenos  Aires  Is  the 
docks,  magnificent  and  well  built.  To  us,  one 
of  the  most  agreeable  experiences  on  the  Atlantic 
side  of  South  America  was  the  fact  that  a  steamer 
could  dock !  The  horrible  way  of  landing  on  the 
western  coast  had  been  a  great  trial,  and  in  spite 
of  our  determination  not  to  be  nervous  about  It, 
we  could  not  help  feeling  that  the  fletero  in  his 
tiny  craft  was  by  no  means  a  safe  way  of  landing 
passengers  from  an  ocean  vessel  which  lay  a  mile 
or  more  out  at  sea.  Therefore  these  fine  docks  at 
Buenos  Aires,  Santos,  and  Rio  de  Janeiro  were 
certainly  welcome  sights. 

The  docks  of  Buenos  Aires  cost  over  fifty  mil- 
lions, and  the  numerous  basins  of  this  vast  dock 
system  amaze  and  thrill  the  stranger.  Row  after 
row  of  massive  masonry  and  cement  wharves  con- 
front him;  behind  them  is  spread  a  network  of 
railway  lines.  In  the  background  are  public  gar- 
dens filled  with  flowers  and  statuary  to  beautify 
the  approach  to  the  city.  Everything  to  please  the 
eye  has  been  done  to  attract  the  stranger  and  to 


212  Below  the  Equator 

impress  him  with  the  fact  he  is  about  to  enter  a 
cleanly,  progressive  and  very  busy  city. 

We  experienced  the  usual  red  tape  when  we 
boarded  the  steamer  to  leave.  Government  offi- 
cers interviewed  every  passenger,  and  here  we 
came  face  to  face  with  an  ironclad  rule.  No  gold 
could  be  taken  out  of  Argentina !  No  matter  how 
or  where  you  got  it,  it  had  to  be  given  up  —  of 
course,  in  exchange  for  their  money.  We  had  been 
warned  on  leaving  home  that  there  might  be  times 
in  the  interior  when  it  would  be  advisable  to  have 
gold,  so  this  was  a  moment  of  consternation  to  us. 
My  husband  had  been  carrying  in  a  small  bag 
three  hundred  dollars  in  good  American  gold, 
brought  from  Chicago  and  carefully  hoarded 
against  some  possible  contingency.  He  did  not 
intend  to  give  it  up.  But  the  law  was  strict  and 
no  exceptions  are  made.  If  one  brings  gold  into 
Argentina  it  belongs  to  the  country.  But  my  hus- 
band comes  of  a  fighting  race,  and  he  is  not  a 
coward.  I  don't  know  how  the  other  passengers 
managed,  nor  do  I  know  what  he  did !  But  he  did 
not  give  up  his  gold!  He  carried  it  safely  back 
to  Chicago,  untouched. 


I 


CHAPTER  XXXI 

MONTEVIDEO 

WE  STEAMED  away  from  Buenos  Aires 
gay  and  happy,  little  dreaming  that  we 
should  soon  return  with  the  knowledge  of  the  war 
brought  to  our  own  doors.  It  is  well  for  us  that  we 
know  not  what  a  day  may  bring  forth.  A  night 
of  sailing  down  the  River  Plate,  which  in  spite  of 
its  beautiful  nickname  (the  Silver  River)  is  a 
muddy  shallow  stream,  brought  us  to  Montevideo, 
in  Uruguay.  This  city  has  nearly  four  hundred 
thousand  inhabitants,  many  charming  homes,  and 
is  a  great  resort  for  the  people  of  Buenos  Aires.  A 
wonderful  bathing  beach  and  an  enormous  hotel, 
magnificently  equipped,  are  among  the  attractions. 
There  are  good  stores,  pretty  plazas,  and  wide 
streets. 

As  a  place  of  residence  it  must  be  most  attrac- 
tive. It  has  a  fine  old  cathedral  with  very  high 
towers,  the  interiors  and  decorations  quite  worth 
a  visit.  It  has  a  splendid  theater,  and  it  is  said 
that  the  people  here  are  unusually  fond  of  the 
drama  and  that  over  two  thousand  performances 
are  given  yearly.    The  university  and  museum  are 

213 


214  Below  the  Equator 

very  grand  buildings,  the  former  containing 
much  that  is  of  interest.  The  parks  and  watering 
places  reveal  that  life  in  Montevideo  is  much  in 
the  open.  The  city  boasts  a  fine  hotel,  the  Parque, 
so  named  because  it  adjoins  the  park.  It  was 
erected  in  1909,  at  a  cost  of  nearly  a  million  dol- 
lars, and  is  most  luxurious  in  its  appointments. 
Its  salons,  dining-room,  and  casino  are  exception- 
ally attractive,  and  it  is  a  favorite  resort  of  many 
of  the  fashionables  of  both  Argentina  and  Uru- 
guay. The  seashore  In  front  has  many  fine  bathing 
houses  on  wheels.  These  are  drawn  by  horses  Into 
the  water  so  that  the  bathers  need  not  be  seen  if 
they  do  not  desire.  We  spent  but  one  day  in 
Montevideo,  taking  the  steamer  here  for  the  five 
days'  journey  to  Rio  de  Janeiro. 

We  had  taken  a  neutral  ship,  a  Spanish  one. 
Our  country  was  not  yet  actually  In  the  war. 
Later  we  certainly  regretted  the  taking  of  this 
ship.  It  was  not  large  and  was  crowded  to  the 
guards  with  two  thousand  steerage  passengers 
and  about  three  hundred  first-class.  After  get- 
ting well  out  to  sea  we  discovered  that  our  life- 
boats would  hold  only  about  four  hundred.  In 
view  of  this  discovery,  the  fact  that  the  service 
was  good  and  that  they  served  us  champagne  at 
dinner  without  extra  charge  weighed  very  little. 
These  could  not  possibly  repay  us  for  the  anxiety 
of  that  voyage.     A  boat  of  this  same  line,  the 


Montevideo  215 


Prince  of  the  Asturias,  had  gone  down  off  the  coast 
of  Brazil  only  a  short  time  before  with  a  similar 
crowd  and  nearly  everybody  on  board  was  lost. 
Needless  to  say,  we  were  unaware  of  all  this  when 
we  took  the  last  vacant  first-class  cabin.  We  had 
a  rough  trip.  The  boat  pitched  horribly,  and  many 
times  while  standing  on  the  upper  deck  I  got  thor- 
oughly soaked  by  a  passing  wave.  I  am  not  the 
bravest  person  on  earth  at  sea,  anyway,  and  under 
these  circumstances  I  confess  that  I  was  most 
unhappy  all  of  the  time.  The  steerage  passengers, 
almost  without  exception,  were  ill,  and  the  steamer 
was  so  constructed  that  they  were  visible  all  the 
time  to  the  first-class  passengers.  I  think  neither 
of  us  will  ever  forget  this  voyage. 

As  I  have  said  before,  however,  we  ourselves 
were  good  sailors.  We  never  missed  a  meal  or 
had  a  twinge  of  seasickness.  The  sight  of  several 
wrecked  vessels  off  the  coast  of  Brazil  did  not  add 
any  pleasure  to  the  experience,  as  we  could  not  but 
realize  that  in  case  of  accident  we  should  have 
little  show.  The  steerage  passengers  were  the  men 
of  whom  I  have  already  spoken  who  come  annually 
from  Italy  to  work  in  Argentina.  They  bring 
their  entire  families  and  stay  six  months,  during 
which  time  they  make  enough  money  to  take  them 
back  and  live  the  other  six  months  in  Italy.  They 
carry  everything  to  and  fro.  On  the  way  up  to 
Rio  a  very  much  blondined  French  girl  often  came 


216  Below  the  Equator 

and  sat  by  me.  I  did  not  care  for  her  appearance, 
but  everybody  talks  on  shipboard.  When  she  was 
not  surrounded  by  a  dozen  or  so  of  men,  she 
amused  herself  by  giving  me  much  unasked-for 
information  in  regard  to  our  fellow-travelers. 

At  Santos,  where  we  stopped  for  a  few  hours, 
we  had  an  experience.  Officers  boarded  the  boat 
and  arrested  six  of  our  table  companions,  three 
men  and  three  women.  They  had  sat  with  us  since 
leaving  Montevideo,  and  apparently  were  perfect 
strangers  to  each  other.  They  never  spoke  or 
once,  by  any  sign,  conveyed  the  impression  that 
they  had  ever  seen  each  other  before.  There  was 
not  a  little  excitement,  therefore,  when  they  were 
confined  to  their  cabins.  Not  a  soul  was  permitted 
to  speak  to  them;  they  were  strictly  guarded,  and 
would  be  jailed  as  soon  as  we  reached  Rio.  One 
was  a  very  beautiful  girl.  The  other  women  were 
attractive,  too.  But  the  girl  was  so  innocent  look- 
ing she  would  have  been  the  last  person  on  earth 
I  should  have  suspected  of  anything  wrong.  The 
three  men,  however,  looked  their  part.  I  should 
not  have  been  surprised  if  they  had  scuttled  our 
ship !  They  were  said  to  have  been  conspirators, 
engaged  in  a  deep-laid  plot  which  reached  as  far 
as  the  war  of  the  United  States.  In  any  case,  the 
sight  of  those  six  empty  chairs  at  meal  time  fur- 
nished a  topic  of  conversation  during  the  rest  of 
the  voyage.   We  discussed  them  in  every  language. 


Montevideo  217 


except  English  I  When  we  reached  Rio  they  were 
taken  off  the  ship,  but  after  that  we  heard  nothing. 
One  of  the  women  said  to  me:  *^ En  su  modo 
de  presentarse,  se  nota  un  no  se  de  repugnantey 
or  as  we  might  say:  "  It's  their  way  of  doing,  not 
themselves  that  is  so  intolerable."  She  added: 
''  Que  hombre  tan  insoportahle,  no  tiene  la  menor 
idea  de  finura.  Su  lengua  es  el  mas  extravagante  y 
ofensiva.  Hay  cierta  baje  en  todo  lo  que  el  haceJ^ 
Which  means  "When  people  become  so  unbear- 
able, there  Is  nothing  to  do  but  to  finish  them. 
Their  tongues  were  the  most  extravagant  and 
offensive.  That  Is  certainly  the  cause  of  every- 
thing that  has  taken  place.'* 


CHAPTER  XXXII 

BRAZIL 

IF  THE  length  and  breadth  of  a  country,  and  a 
variety  of  resources  count  for  anything,  then 
Brazil  should  be  considered  the  greatest  country 
of  South  America.  It  occupies  about  thirty-three 
per  cent  of  the  whole  continent  and  was  peopled 
by  a  single  nation.  There  are  many  colonies  of 
Germans,  Italians,  and  Spaniards,  but  the  Portu- 
guese are  recognized  as  having  been  the  pioneers 
of  the  country  and  much  of  the  activity  and  prog- 
ress has  been  due  to  them.  The  resources  of  this 
country  are  enormous,  inexhaustible.  Though 
many  of  them  are  in  operation,  the  country  is  so 
extensive  that  it  may  be  said  to  be  yet  practically 
unopened.  When  one  considers  the  tremendous 
wealth  lying  along  the  mighty  rivers  which  flow 
through  Impenetrable  forests  out  to  the  ocean — 
forests  which  no  white  man  has  yet  entered  and 
where  the  primitive  Indian  Is  just  as  he  was  when 
the  Portuguese  first  landed  on  their  shores,  one 
may  well  regard  this  as  an  unexplored  country. 

The   early   Portuguese   navigators   discovered 
Brazil.     The  celebrated  Amerigo  Vespucci  was 

218 


I 


Brazil  219 


L 


one  of  them.  He  was  enthusiastic  over  the  loveli- 
ness he  found  here  and  called  it  an  earthly  para- 
dise. He  talked  of  it  so  much  that  other  explorers 
began  to  touch  upon  these  shores.  This  made 
Portugal  jealous  and  she  started  to  protect  her 
rights.  In  1527  she  established  a  garrison  in 
her  own  interests.  But  the  French  and  English 
attacked  her  and  she  was  obliged  to  fight  hard  to 
retain  what  she  had.  However,  in  spite  of  her 
losses  and  many  struggles,  she  managed  to  main- 
tain her  right  of  discovery.  The  country  was  so 
vast  that  they  made  most  of  their  settlements  on 
the  coast  rather  than  the  interior,  which,  even  in 
those  early  days,  they  feared  for  its  deadly  dis- 
eases and  savage  natives. 

Brazil  shared  with  the  other  countries  the  rav- 
ages of  rapacious  traders,  who  demanded  and 
took  from  the  poor  savages  all  they  could  lay 
hands  on.  Right  here  let  me  say  that  it  was  the 
Jesuits  who  by  their  courage  and  ability  checked 
this  evil.  They  built  churches,  founded  schools 
and  taught  the  Indians  agriculture.  It  was  their 
zeal  alone  which  made  it  possible  for  Brazil  to 
continue  to  exist.  The  priests  suffered  persecu- 
tion, privation,  and  unheard-of  torture.  But  they 
persisted  in  their  work  for  the  love  of  humanity. 
To  them,  more  than  to  any  other  people,  Brazil 
owes  what  she  is  today. 

For  a  while  French  rule  threatened  Brazil,  and 


220  Below  the  Equator 

the  Dutch  also  tried  to  get  in.  But  both  these 
suns  rose  and  set.  The  doglike  perseverance  of 
the  Portuguese  won.  Brazil's  progress  was  not 
very  swift,  but  it  was  sure.  There  were  abundant 
signs  of  the  spirit  of  improvement  in  the  country 
which  had  established  itself  in  the  hearts  of  the 
Brazilians.  Old  Dom  Pedro  was  one  of  their 
leaders,  and,  although  he  did  things  in  a  rather 
high-handed  way,  his  efforts  were  evidently  appre- 
ciated. He  was  rewarded  by  being  made  Em- 
peror, and  was  really  a  dashing  monarch.  But 
his  ambition  got  him  into  trouble.  By  1831  he 
had  mixed  things  up  to  such  an  extent  that  he  was 
forced  to  abdicate  in  favor  of  his  son,  Dom  Pedro 
II.  Even  then  things  did  not  run  smoothly.  Civil 
wars  broke  out  and  distracted  the  country.  The 
planters  and  slave  owners  made  much  trouble. 
The  people  were  for  doing  away  with  the  slave 
system.  When  the  young  Emperor  was  but  fif- 
teen, the  old  Dom  Pedro,  recognizing  the  power 
of  the  forces  arrayed  against  him,  wrote  a  letter 
telling  the  people  that  though  he  had  a  heart  full 
of  affection  for  his  country  he  had  decided  to  leave 
it.  He  wished  them  great  prosperity,  but  he  felt 
that  after  half  a  century  in  which  he  had  tried  to 
discharge  his  duties  faithfully  it  was  better  for 
him  to  go,  so  set  out  with  his  family  to  Europe. 
It  was  a  rather  pathetic  end,  but  he  did  the  only 
sensible  thing  left.     That  the  people  loved  him 


Brazil  221 

is  unquestionable,  and  many  notable  reminders  of 
this  famous  leader  are  scattered  throughout  the 
country. 

To  Dom  Pedro  ii  Brazil  owes  much.  He  was 
a  courteous  and  kindly  man  in  private  and  a  digni- 
fied and  patriotic  one  in  public  life.  Yet  these 
very  characteristics  finally  led  to  his  undoing.  He 
did  not  like  ostentation.  His  tastes  were  literary. 
He  was  fond  of  foreign  travel  and  took  great 
interest  in  all  questions  of  the  day.  He  had  a 
profound  admiration  for  the  United  States  and 
often  spoke  with  enthusiasm  of  us,  regretting  that 
his  country  was  not  yet  able  to  grasp  some  of  our 
great  ideas.  He  loved  to  roam  about  his  own 
country  unattended,  talking  to  any  man  he  chanced 
to  meet.  In  contrast  to  his  manner  was  that  of 
his  daughter,  the  Princess  Isabel.  She  was  the 
reverse  of  her  father,  haughty,  reserved  in  man- 
ner, and  her  cold  demeanor  in  public  made  her 
very  unpopular.  Her  husband  was  equally  dis- 
liked. For  many  years  the  people  tolerated  them 
because  of  their  love  for  the  old  Emperor.  But, 
as  the  latter's  influence  lessened,  their  dislike  of 
the  Princess  and  her  husband  became  an  open 
secret.  A  political  outbreak  due  to  this  cost  the 
Emperor  his  throne.  Dom  Pedro  made  many 
visits  to  Europe,  sometimes  in  the  public  interest, 
but  often  for  the  mere  love  of  travel.  His  daugh- 
ter was  regent  in  his  absence.     She  had  often 


222  Below  the  Equator 

differed  from  him  in  policy,  and  during  these  in- 
tervals would  deliberately  undo  what  he  himself 
had  done.  Her  ministers  warned  her  that  this 
was  unwise,  but  she  did  not  heed  them,  and  in  her 
decision  to  abolish  slavery  at  once  she  forced  the 
issue.  Her  father  had  always  believed  in  it,  but 
he  thought  a  gradual  abolishment  the  wiser  plan. 
When  the  old  Emperor  returned  to  Rio  in  1888 
he  was  given  a  glorious  reception,  which  evidenced 
the  personal  love  in  which  he  was  held.  But  a 
great  deal  of  this  ceremony  was  on  the  surface. 
The  people  were  discontented  and  he  soon  saw 
that  his  interests  had  weakened.  The  powerful 
group  of  plantation  proprietors  made  no  conceal- 
ment of  the  way  they  felt.  They  interested  cer- 
tain of  the  army  officers  and  secretly  set  about  to 
depose  the  Emperor.  The  latter  was  living  in  the 
palace  at  Petropolis.  One  evening  some  festiv- 
ities were  going  on  when  an  escort  entered  and 
asked  him  to  surrender  his  crown.  A  struggle 
followed  and  some  blood  was  shed.  It  was  at  this 
time  the  Emperor  realized  that  it  was  best  for  him 
to  abdicate. 


CHAPTER  XXXIII 

RIO  DE  JANERIO 

IN  MY  humble  judgment,  Rio  de  Janerlo  is  the 
loveliest  spot  on  earth.  The  city  lies  in  a 
land-locked  gulf,  about  eighteen  miles  long  and 
from  four  to  eleven  miles  wide.  One  enters 
through  a  channel  in  the  ocean.  On  all  sides  are 
promontories  containing  forts.  Bold  and  beauti- 
ful stony  islands  and  high  hills  are  passed.  The 
city  runs  along  the  shore  for  several  miles  and  the 
slopes  behind  are  one  mass  of  that  exquisite 
tropical  green  of  Brazil.  The  regular  coast  line 
shows  the  city  level  in  front,  but  climbing  the  hill 
it  slopes  over  the  mountains.  Rio  is  hemmed  in 
by  mountains  and  bays.  We  had  seen  Naples 
and  Honolulu,  and  many  of  the  other  famous 
harbors  of  the  world.  But  they  all  seem  insig- 
nificent  beside  this  one.  The  glory  of  the  moun- 
tains rising  from  the  sea  and  covered  with  brilliant 
green  Is  startling.  Here  the  cliffs  seem  a  part  of 
the  city. 

Two  strange  formations  stand  out  boldly,  the 
Pan  de  Azucar  (Sugar  Loaf) ,  a  gray  cone  of  bare 
rock,  severe  In  line  and  lying  against  the  deep  blue 

223 


224  Below  the  Equator 

of  the  sky,  and  Corcovado,  higher  still,  standing 
over  two  thousand  feet  in  the  air.  These  two 
peaks  catch  the  eye  immediately.  We  were  for- 
tunate in  landing  in  a  flood  of  sunshine  from  a  sea 
of  brilliant  blue,  making  doubly  interesting  the 
view  of  the  equally  beautiful  city  we  were  ap- 
proaching. Except  for  these  two  bare  mountains 
the  others  are  all  green.  Once  ashore  we  were  be- 
wildered by  the  profusion  of  strange  flowers  — 
wonderful  orchids  growing  in  the  streets.  It  is 
impossible  for  one  to  exaggerate  the  surroundings 
which  nature  has  given  to  Rio.  How  a  painter 
must  revel  in  its  strange  beauty ! 

The  palm  we  had  become  accustomed  to  in  our 
travels,  but  here  It  seemed  a  different  tree.  Whole 
forests  of  them  abound.  We  chose  the  Hotel 
Estrangeiros  here  for  sentimental  reasons.  Our 
daughter  had  once  been  here  as  the  guest  of  her 
room-mate  at  school,  Miss  Catherine  Barker,  now 
Mrs.  Howard  Spaulding,  of  Chicago.  We  saw 
all  that  Rio  had  to  offer,  from  the  botanical  gar- 
dens to  every  pretty  suburb.  The  gardens  contain 
innumerable  wonders  of  flora  and  have  long  been 
famous  for  the  avenues  of  royal  palms,  each  a 
hundred  feet  high,  grown  from  one  seed  in  the 
days  when  the  King  of  Portugal  had  his  court 
here.  We  were  shown  the  first  of  the  palms, 
planted  in  1808.  It  is  a  giant  tree  and  is  now 
carefully  protected  by  an  iron  fence.    In  addition 


Rio  de  Janeiro  225 

to  these  Immense  trees  there  are  many  interesting 
plants  and  curious  fruits  growing  here.  Large 
melons,  queer,  pear-shaped  things,  grow  from  the 
center  of  the  trunk  of  a  tree  and  look  very  odd. 
The  coffee  and  tea  trees,  too,  are  large  and  inter- 
esting. Here  we  saw  for  the  first  time  the  giant 
bamboo,  a  monster  tree,  over  a  foot  in  diameter 
and  different  from  the  ordinary  bamboo.  There 
was  a  veritable  wilderness  of  flowers,  all  In  bril- 
liant colors  —  yellows,  purples,  and  scarlets,  and 
many  flowering  vines.  All  this  beauty  was  bathed 
In  a  vaporous  sort  of  sunshine,  for  there  is  here 
frequently  a  fine  mist  in  the  air. 

The  palace  formerly  occupied  by  Dom  Pedro  II 
is  now  the  Museum.  It  Is  called  Boa  Vista. 
Superb  Is  the  view  from  this  building!  What  a 
site  for  a  home!  Palm-covered  mountains  and 
green  valleys,  and  beyond  them  —  always  the  blue 
ocean !  The  Interior  of  the  Museum  Is  well  worth 
seeing.  We  saw  an  enormous  meteorite,  the  larg- 
est one  we  had  ever  seen,  one  side  beautifully 
polished  and  as  white  as  the  purest  silver.  There 
were  also  specimens  of  the  exquisite  weaving  of 
the  Brazilian  Indians.  Some  of  their  small  ham- 
mocks are  the  most  beautiful  things  one  can 
imagine  and  their  feather-work  Is  unusually  good. 
Their  mummies,  preserved  fish,  etc.,  are  also  ex- 
cellent specimens. 

Rio  has  been  called  the  City  of  Paradise,  and 


226  Below  the  Equator 

surrounded  by  its  eternal  hills,  covered  with  lively 
green,    its    concentrated   splendor    of   light    and 
shadows,  Its  wild  beauty  of  rich  growing  wilder- 
ness,  its  tropical   greenery,   it  well  deserves  its 
name.     Its  shores  and  mountain  slopes  possess 
attractions  of  which  one  can  never  tire.    The  beau- 
tiful esplanade^  Avenida  Beira  Mar,  running  out 
to  Botogogo,  on  one  side  of  the  city,  is  one  of 
their  show  places.     The  Avenida  Rio  Branco  is 
claimed  by  the  Brazilians  to  be  the  most  beautiful 
street  in  the  world.     It  contains  every  style  of 
architecture,  Italian,  Moorish,  Gothic,  and  it  has 
mosaic  sidewalks  and  beautiful  shade  trees.    It  is 
always  filled  with  fast-running  automobiles  and 
fashionably  dressed  women.    But  to  me  the  Beira 
Mar  was  more  enchanting.  This  curves  all  around 
the  beautiful  bay  and  in  sight  of  the  blue  waters 
of  the  ocean  we  could  sit  in  a  pretty  park  and  look 
up  at  the  splendid  heights  of  Sugar  Loaf  and 
Corcovado.    One  sits  enthralled  in  such  places  as 
this  where  Nature  has  been  so  generous.    Along 
the  Beira  Mar  were  trees  which  had  great  bunches 
of  yellow  blooms  which,  except  for  the  color,  were 
like  the  wistaria.     Others  had  a  scarlet  bloom, 
and  some  were  white   and  pink.      Orchids,   be- 
gonias, and  other  flowers,  the  names  of  which  I 
did  not  know,  were  at  our  very  feet,  and  lovely 
villas  and  gardens  dotted  the  bay.    Mosses,  ferns, 
trickling    waters,     narrow    paths,     and    sudden 


1 

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Photo    b\  1  r.    ITarrison 

Botanical  Gardkns,  Rio  de  Janeiro 


Rio  de  Janeiro  227 

glimpses  of  the  glancing  water  of  the  bay  were 
enchanting,  and  this  was  but  one  of  the  spots  from 
which  such  views  could  be  obtained.  Not  far  from 
the  hotel  where  we  were  staying  was  a  splendid 
avenue  of  royal  palms  which  led  to  the  residence 
of  the  president.  Indeed,  almost  every  street  In 
this  beautiful  city  is  worth  wandering  through, 
and  from  each  of  them  one  sees  the  everlasting 
background — the  magnificent,  troplcal-green-cov- 
ered  mountains.  The  Municipal  Theater  is  very 
much  like  the  Opera  House  In  Paris.  It  has  an 
enormous  stage,  perfectly  equipped  dressing- 
rooms,  Is  beautifully  decorated,  and  said  to  have 
only  one  rival  In  South  America.  This  Is  the 
theater  at  Sao  Paulo. 

The  street  Ouvldor,  which,  though  It  now  bears 
another  name,  is  still  called  by  the  old  one,  con- 
tains the  best  shops.  Brazilian  diamonds  here  are 
celebrated  for  their  beauty.  Nowhere  In  the  world 
may  one  see  finer  specimens  than  these  wonderful 
stones.  None  more  beautiful  are  to  be  found  on 
earth.  Clear,  glistening  like  the  purest  water, 
they  are  bright  as  stars.  I  knew  perfectly  well 
that  my  pocket-book  did  not  admit  of  much  in- 
dulgence along  this  line,  also  that  I  already  had 
enough  to  satisfy  the  ordinary  woman,  but  I  was 
mad  to  purchase  some.  In  Rio  the  diamond  shops 
are  truly  wonderful.  Not  even  Tiffany's  in  our 
own  New  York  can  outshine  them.    The  Ouvldor 


228  Below  the  Equator 

is  simply  lined  with  these  shops  and  the  gems  are 
most  alluring.  Neither  are  they  as  expensive  as 
those  of  our  own  country.  Still,  the  diamond  is 
not  a  cheap  stone  anywhere  and  those  I  wished  to 
purchase  ran  into  the  thousands.  My  usually 
indulgent  husband  looked  black  as  thunder  when 
I  lingered  about  the  shops  in  which  I  had  decided 
to  purchase.  He  felt  that  war  time  was  not  the 
time  to  indulge  in  such  frivolity.  I  am  ashamed 
to  admit  that  I  was  hard  to  dissuade.  I  was  simply 
obsessed  on  the  subject  of  buying  diamonds. 
However,  at  last  I  reluctantly  listened  to  reason 
and  many  times  since  have  congratulated  myself. 
The  fact  that  I  was  a  reasonable  woman  and  that 
my  purse  was  not  utterly  depleted  by  this  extrava- 
gance enabled  me  to  contribute  my  quota  to  the 
war  fund,  which  everyone  should  feel  to  be  an 
absolute  duty. 

The  Brazilians  are  said  to  be  an  impetuous 
race,  but  they  are  certainly  courteous  and  they 
inherit  from  their  Latin  ancestors  the  gift  of  fluent 
speech.  They  are  devoted  to  all  art,  and  espe- 
cially music.  They  consider  the  education  of  their 
young  people  incomplete  unless  some  branch  of 
the  latter  art  has  been  mastered. 

The  tremendous  wealth  of  Brazil  is  well  dis- 
played in  Rio.  All  the  politicians  and  governors 
of  this  vast  territory  gather  here  in  the  capital. 
They   have    majestic   homes    and    live    extrava- 


I 


Rio  de  Janeiro  229 

gantly,  but  they  strive  to  make  their  city  a  worthy 
setting  for  themselves.  Their  streets  are  the  fin- 
est in  the  world,  and  when  they  desire  a  thing  they 
spare  no  money  in  carrying  out  their  plans.  The 
natural  beauty  of  the  setting  about  them  makes 
accomplishment  easy.  Fountains  and  arbors, 
rustic  bridges  and  palms,  clumps  of  bamboo  and 
an  infinite  variety  of  ferns  make  landscape  garden- 
ing a  joy.  Beautiful  birds  flying  through  the  trees, 
the  most  gorgeously  colored  humming  birds  one 
ever  saw,  enormous  butterflies  of  brilliant  color, 
which  rise  so  high  in  the  air  that  they  are  some- 
times mistaken  for  birds,  brilliant  sunlight  bathing 
everything  In  a  golden  light  —  these  are  only  a 
few  of  the  fascinations  of  this  place. 

There  Is  a  lovely  church  here  called  the  Cande- 
laria.  It  contains  hundreds  of  candlesticks  and 
Is  known  as  the  richest  church  in  South  America. 
It  stands  on  a  little  side  street  facing  the  bay.  It 
has  a  beautiful  ceiling  of  mosaic  decorations,  some 
excellent  paintings  by  Brazilian  artists,  fine  marble 
columns,  wonderful  old  silver  and  solid  tables. 

On  the  top  of  one  of  the  hills  there  is  a  fine  old 
Benedictine  Monastery  entered  by  a  large  gate- 
way at  the  bottom  of  a  flight  of  stone  steps.  It 
was  built  In  1591  and  was  Injured  during  the 
French  Invasion  and  by  firei  But  it  has  been  well 
restored.  It  maintains  a  school  for  boys,  and 
many  distinguished  men  have  received  their  edu- 


230  Below  the  Equator 

cation  there.  The  order  Is  wealthy  and  owns  much 
valuable  property  In  the  city.  From  the  hill-top  we 
had  a  very  beautiful  view,  embracing  the  many  lit- 
tle islands  dotting  the  ocean. 

One  of  the  most  Interesting  and  conspicuous 
buildings  is  the  Monroe  Palace.  It  fronts  the  sea 
and  is  open  on  all  sides.  This  was  reproduced  at 
the  St.  Louis  Exposition  and  served  as  the  Bra- 
zilian headquarters.  Here,  in  1906,  the  second 
Pan-American  Congress  was  held.  It  Is  the  most 
ornate  of  any  of  the  buildings  on  the  avenida  and 
certainly  one  of  the  most  attractive.  One  side 
faces  the  Passeio  Publico,  one  of  the  oldest  gar- 
dens of  Rio  (founded  In  1783),  and  has  vegeta- 
tion in  It  a  hundred  and  thirty  years  old.  It  has  a 
little  aquarium  containing  thirty-five  different 
species  of  fish  —  flying  fish,  feather  fish,  moon  fish, 
sea  horses,  crabs,  turtles,  and  many  kinds  of 
lobsters. 

I  have  already  spoken  of  the  many  varieties  of 
trees  which  grow  in  the  streets.  One  particularly 
gorgeous  variety  is  called  the  Flor  de  Guaresma, 
It  literally  covers  the  mountain  sides  and  Its  royal 
purple  Is  exquisite.  There  Is  also  an  especially 
brilliant  tree  resembling  the  Royal  Ponciana,  with 
a  feathery  scarlet  bloom.  The  cactus  here  is  from 
thirty  to  forty  feet  high  and  is  large  in  propor- 
tion. The  giant  bamboos  meet  overhead  and 
when  trimmed  form  little  houses  for  tea  drinkers. 


Rio  de  Janeiro  231 

Under  these  trees  the  people  sit  lazily,  or  play 
cards,  or  dance.  But  why  go  on?  One  can  never 
tell  all  that  he  sees  here  in  the  line  of  wonderful 
vegetation. 

In  walking  through  Rio  I  often  thought  of  an 
incident  connected  with  our  daughter's  visit. 
When  she  was  in  South  America  I  read  in  the 
newspapers  of  a  revolution  in  Brazil.  My  hus- 
band was  ill  and  could  not  be  consulted.  In  a 
mother's  frantic  anxiety  I  unhesitatingly  tele- 
graphed my  fears  to  a  friend  in  Washington,  Hon. 
William  J.  Bryan,  then  Secretary  of  State.  Never 
can  I  forget  his  kindness.  He  thoroughly  investi- 
gated the  report  and  soon  allayed  my  fears  by 
letting  me  know  that  the  revolution  was  one  thou- 
sand miles  from  Rio,  the  destination  to  which  my 
daughter  was  headed.  He  added  that  the  embassy 
had  been  notified  to  care  for  the  little  party  on 
its  arrival.  To  show  this  attention,  however,  it 
was  necessary  to  locate  the  ship  on  which  they 
were  traveling,  a  bit  of  news  I  had  failed  to  im- 
part. Therefore,  as  we  learned  later  on,  when 
we  reached  Rio  ourselves,  each  incoming  steamer 
from  Buenos  Aires  was  met  and  Miss  Harrison 
was  paged.  Their  consternation  on  hearing  the 
name  megaphoned  may  be  imagined.  The  momen- 
tary embarrassment  was  soon  forgotten  in  the 
courtesy  and  cordiality  of  the  embassy.  My  hus- 
band, when  he  learned  of  the  incident,  congratu- 


232  Below  the  Equator 

lated  me  that  I  had  not  wired  the  President  of  the 
United  States. 

Rio's  streets  are  beautifully  paved  with  asphalt 
and  in  this  city  the  automobile  is  a  dangerous 
thing.  I  have  never  seen  so  many  nor  have  I  ever 
seen  such  swift  and  reckless  driving.  One  takes 
his  life  in  his  hands  when  he  enters  a  public  vehicle 
and  many  a  time  I  walked  when  a  street  car  was 
not  available,  rather  than  get  into  a  public  con- 
veyance.   They  run  at  break-neck  speed. 

The  ride  out  to  Petropolis  was  one  that  we 
were  anxious  to  take,  as  we  knew  it  to  be  a  beauti- 
ful one.  The  climb  is  swift  and  very  high.  Our 
train  was  broken  into  three  sections,  each  having 
two  engines.  Ten  per  cent  grade  is  this  climb. 
The  steepest  grade  in  North  America  is  two  per 
cent.  We  had  some  wonderful  scenery,  of  course, 
but  it  was  not  a  perfect  day  for  such  a  trip.  There 
were  many  clouds,  and,  although  we  saw  the  ocean 
and  the  panorama  between,  the  famous  view  was 
not  so  clear  because  of  the  fine  mist.  Still,  we  were 
fortunate  to  see  it  at  all,  as  at  this  time  of  the 
year  the  fogs  often  shut  it  off  altogether. 

In  Petropolis  the  wealthy  of  Rio  have  their 
summer  homes,  as  do  all  the  foreign  ambassa- 
dors. As  has  been  said,  it  was  here  that  Dom 
Pedro  received  the  first  intimation  that  his  people 
were  tired  of  him  and  wished  him  to  abdicate. 
Right  through  the  center  of  this  pretty  city  runs 


Photo    by    Carter    H,    Harrison 

AvENiDA  Central,  Rio  de  Janeiro 


Photo    by    Carter    H.    Harrison 

Municipal  Theater,  Rio  de  Janeiro 


Rio  de  Janeiro  233 

a  clear  mountain  stream,  a  canal.  All  the  streets 
have  beautiful  avenues  of  palms  and  other  trees. 
We  motored  to  Cascatinha,  where  there  are  some 
algodon  (cotton)  mills.  The  winding  ride  up  and 
around  the  mountains  was  indescribably  beauti- 
ful—  my  husband  thought  the  prettiest  we  had 
ever  seen.  But  I  was  not  so  sure.  I  remembered 
a  similar  one  in  Honolulu  which  had  thrilled  me, 
and  it  came  back  to  me  persistently  on  this  day. 
I  could  not  say  that  anything  in  the  world  could 
ever  excel  that.  On  both  of  them,  however,  I  was 
equally  terrified,  for  the  terrible  curves  seemed 
blood-curdling  on  the  edges  of  the  precipices.  Had 
the  machine  slipped  a  foot  it  would  have  been  all 
over  for  us.  To  my  mind  it  was  a  little  too  thrill- 
ing to  be  thoroughly  enjoyable.  Many  times  we 
could  see  four  repetitions  of  the  road  zig-zagging 
below  us.  Still,  the  views  of  the  valley  lying  be- 
tween the  ranges  was  overpowering  and  in  spite 
of  my  fears  I  was  glad  to  be  there. 

One  has  no  doubt  there  that  he  is  in  the  tropics. 
The  heat  is  intense.  As  usual,  we  went  into 
ecstasies  over  the  vegetation.  It  is  so  unlike  any- 
thing one  sees  elsewhere  that  it  is  difficult  to  re- 
strain one's  enthusiasm. 

After  we  reached  Petropolis  we  left  the  motor 
and  walked  about  the  streets.  It  was  here  that 
we  had  a  funny  experience.  Before  we  started  on 
our  journey  and  every  spare  moment  on  shipboard 


234  Below  the  Equator 

we  studied  Spanish,  and  both  had  made  consider- 
able progress.  My  'husband  had  either  more 
brains  or  more  perseverance  than  I.  I  try  to  com- 
fort myself  with  the  thought  that  he  possesses 
only  one  of  these  qualities,  but  deep  down  in  my 
heart  I  think  he  has  both!  At  any  rate  he  had 
been  Interviewed  by  reporters,  had  made  all 
arrangements  for  baggage  and  hotels  and  had 
really  made  quite  a  clever  showing  in  the  language 
which  we  both  had  determined  to  master.  We 
had  occasionally  proudly  discussed  the  fact  that 
we  had  never  failed  to  make  ourselves  understood. 
But  on  this  day  In  charming  Petropolis  we  forgot 
Spanish  would  be  of  no  use — we  needed  Portu- 
guese. We  wandered  about  and  succeeded  In  get- 
ting lost !  When  we  discovered  the  fact  we  had 
just  time  to  get  our  train  back  to  Rio.  We  pro- 
ceeded to  ask  In  our  very  best  Spanish,  French, 
German,  and  English  for  the  direction  to  the  sta- 
tion. Quite  a  crowd  gathered  about  us,  interested, 
I  presume.  In  the  many  languages  we  were  making 
use  of.  But  no  one  answered  our  questions.  At 
last  my  husband  said  in  despair,  "  Well,  we  shall 
lose  our  train,  all  we  can  do  now  is  to  wander 
about  until  we  strike  a  motor  or  find  the  station 
by  accident." 

I  was  not  so  easily  discouraged,  however,.  I 
put  my  woman's  wits  to  work.  I  smiled  at  him 
serenely  and  said,  "Don't  give  up  yet.     I'll  get 


I 


Rio  de  Janeiro  235 


you  the  direction  to  that  station  in  five  seconds." 
And  I  did  1  It  was  simple  enough.  I  began  run- 
ning back  and  forth,  puffing  and  chou-chouing 
like  an  engine!  My  husband  looked  utterly  dis- 
gusted. The  crowd  roared,  but  they  pointed  the 
way  to  the  station  and  we  caught  our  train ! 


CHAPTER  XXXIV 

THE  TIJUCA  JUNGLE 

WE  RETURNED  to  Rio  that  night  and  I 
had  the  experience  of  lying  awake  till  dawn 
listening  to  what  I  thought  was  a  wretched  little 
dog  across  the  street  whining  all  night.  In  spite 
of  the  fact  that  I  knew  no  Portuguese  I  managed 
next  morning  by  signs  and  gesticulations  to  inter- 
view some  of  the  servants  of  the  palace  across 
from  our  hotel.  I  hoped  by  crossing  their  palms 
to  have  the  dog  removed  to  another  part  of  the 
house  for  the  rest  of  the  time  I  was  to  stay.  What 
was  my  surprise  to  learn  that  the  dog  was  a 
gatico  —  a  tiny  little  cat.  It  seemed  so  diminu- 
tive, so  attractive  in  appearance,  I  could  hardly 
believe  It  had  uttered  such  moans  of  despair  as  to 
disturb  the  whole  neighborhood  during  the  pre- 
vious night. 

Of  course  we  climbed  the  Corcovado,  as  every 
one  does.  Steep  as  It  Is,  we  went  up  a  cog  road 
with  no  danger  attached.  The  views  are  many 
and  glorious.  The  rocky  Islands,  the  mountains 
rolling  away  like  billows,  and  the  blue  ocean  lay 
beneath  us.    The  splendidly  lald-out  city  stretched 

236 


The  Tijuca  Jungle  237 

:e  a  large  map  was  at  our  feet.  All  the  buildings 
were  recognizable  and  the  great  ditch  was  a  silver 
ribbon  across  the  town.  This  ditch  was  once  a 
sluggish  stream  breeding  miasma.  Illness  was 
on  both  sides,  but  a  wise  government  opened  it 
so  that  the  waters  from  the  ocean  now  sweep  in, 
cleansing  and  purifying  It,  making  a  splendid 
canal. 

With  some  very  charming  New  York  friends, 
Mr.  and  Mrs.  Boyd,  we  made  the  motor  trip 
through  the  Tijuca  jungle.  We  chose  a  fine  day 
and  shall  ever  look  back  upon  this  as  one  of  the 
finest  experiences  we  ever  had.  The  contrast 
between  this  actual  jungle  and  the  towns  and  bays 
we  had  skirted  was  most  noticeable.  The  road 
ran  right  through,  under  giant  bamboo  trees  which 
laced  above  our  heads.  Curves,  curves,  curves! 
Sometimes  the  curve  was  scarcely  the  length  of 
the  motor,  but  the  view  of  mountains  and  valleys 
repaid  us.  This  also  was  a  favorite  ride  of  Dom 
Pedro,  although  be  never  took  it. In  its  entirety 
as  we  did.  The  spot  was  marked  where  the 
Emperor  came  almost  daily  for  a  meal,  and  we 
sat  at  the  Emperor's  table  and  gloried  in  the  view 
below.  They  have  now  cut  through  the  jungle, 
and  we  often  stopped,  got  out  and  wandered  along 
where  ferns  and  orchids  grew  riotously  and 
streams  of  water  fell  through  the  rocks.  All  of 
these  places  where  one  may  alight  are  carefully 


238  Below  the  Equator 

prepared.  It  would  be  dangerous  to  get  off  of 
the  beaten  track  because  of  the  snakes  and  deadly 
insects  which  live  in  the  jungle.  Thousands  of 
sweet-smelling  white  lilies  perfume  the  air  and 
enormous  blue  butterflies  hover  over  them.  End- 
less was  the  variety  of  ferns  and  flowering  trees. 
There  were  peaks  to  be  climbed  where  had  the 
car  swerved  we  should  have  been  dashed  to  the 
depths  below.  In  places  on  either  side  of  the  road 
the  jungle  was  impenetrable.  In  the  trees  were 
jabbering  monkeys  and  brilliantly  colored  birds. 

Higher  and  higher  we  ascended  until  the  sum- 
mit was  reached.  Along  the  road  we  saw  evi- 
dences that  it  was  the  favorite  drive  of  the 
Emperor,  for  there  were  many  indications  of  the 
manner  in  which  he  took  his  holidays  there,  lunch- 
ing, dining,  enjoying  the  beauty  which  this  ride 
through  the  jungle  affords. 

Brazil  is  fertile  and  luxuriant  In  its  production 
of  life,  not  only  plant  life,  which  reveals  every 
tropical  growth,  but  of  animal  life  as  well.  It  is 
deplorable  that  so  much  of  its  insect  life  is  deadly. 
The  reptiles  are,  of  course,  death-dealing.  In  Sao 
Paulo  we  became  intensely  interested  in  a  farm  hos- 
pital for  snakes  at  a  suburb  called  Butantan.  Every 
species  of  the  hideous  things  is  kept  there  enclosed 
in  beautiful  grounds  and  the  government  Is  doing  a 
wonderful  work  in  making  -serums  as  antidotes 
for  their  poisonous  bites.    A  tiny  snake  called  the 


I 


The  Tijuca  Jungle  239 

coralline f  only  a  few  inches  long,  is  more  deadly 
than  the  cobra.  Many  of  the  beautiful  insects, 
also,  are  so  poisonous  as  to  produce  death.  One 
is  constantly  warned  to  avoid  bites  of  all  kinds 
and  to  consult  a  physician  instantly  in  case  of  a  bite 
from  even  the  most  harmless  looking  creature. 

I  was  deeply  interested  in  the  gorgeous  blue 
butterflies,  of  which  I  have  spoken,  and  I  saw 
many.  Often  I  tried  to  catch  one,  but  never  suc- 
ceeded. One  day,  however,  I  found  a  dead  one 
which  I  picked  up  and  examined.  I  was  told  later 
that  I  should  not  have  touched  it — that  the  dead- 
liest thing  in  all  Brazil  is  a  grayish-brown  butterfly 
which  lives  in  the  eucalpytus  trees.  Its  sting  means 
death  in  eight  hours,  and  no  one  has  ever  been 
known  to  escape  after  having  been  poisoned  by 
it.  Think  of  it  1  Yet  I  was  unable  to  learn  that 
any  particular  effort  was  being  made  to  exterm- 
inate these.  They  seldom  leave  the  trees  on  which 
they  live. 

For  days  my  husband  had  been  hoping  for  a 
suitable  morning  on  which  to  ascend  Sugar  Loaf. 
For  the  same  number  of  days  I  had  been  praying 
that  such  a  morning  would  not  come  I  The  view 
from  Corcovado  was  practically  the  same  and 
there  we  went  without  the  slightest  danger.  But 
Sugar  Loaf  was  hazardous.  It  was  over  a  thou- 
sand feet  in  the  air.  I  had  no  desire  to  see  that 
yawning  chasm  below  from  the  little  car  suspended 


240  Below  the  Equator 

on  a  slender  cable  which  swings  out  into  space  with 
nothing  to  stop  it.  Besides,  I  have  a  drop  of 
Irish  blood  in  my  veins  and  I  have  always  had  to 
fight  a  bit  of  superstition  in  my  make-up.  For 
months  —  ever  since  we  left  home,  in  fact— we 
had  been  followed  and  haunted  by  the  number 
thirteen,  ^o  matter  where  we  went,  that  thirteen 
went  with  us.  Rooms  at  the  various  hotels,  trips 
on  the  boats,  labels  on  our  trunks,  letters  of  credit 
—  all  were  numbered  thirteen,  and  the  Spanish 
steamer  from  which  we  had  just  disembarked  was 
no  exception.  It  was  the  Leon  Trece  —  the  Leo 
Thirteenth ! 

Thus  far,  however,  we  had  escaped.  But  I  was 
convinced  that  Sugar  Loaf  was  to  be  our  Water- 
loo. Tremblingly  I  confided  my  fears  to  my 
husband  and  he  generously  offered  to  go  alone. 
But  to  this  I  could  not  consent.  In  fact  I  told  him 
that  after  mature  deliberation  I  had  decided  that 
since  both  of  our  children  had  married  and  left  us 
he  was  more  necessary  to  me  than  ever.  So  I 
determined  that  wherever  he  went  on  this  perilous 
trip  I  would  accompany  him.  As  the  rainy  season 
had  set  in,  each  morning  had  been  cloudy  and  I  was 
just  comforting  myself  with  the  thought  that  the 
ascent  might  not  be  possible  after  all  when,  lo  I 
a  morning  dawned  absolutely  cloudless  and  he 
announced  at  once  that  he  would  try  the  Loaf 
that  day. 


The  Tijuca  Jungle  241 

I  had  ceased  to  refer  to  my  fears,  although  I 
still  entertained  them.  I  am  not  unlike  many  of 
my  sex.  I  fight  a  good  deal  over  the  small  things 
of  life,  but  when  the  real  emergencies  come  I  find 
that  I  accept  the  Inevitable  quietly.  So  on  this 
day  I  began  dressing,  saying  nothing  to  disturb 
his  pleasure.  Just  as  I  was  pinning  on  my  veil, 
however,  he  said,  "  Listen.  I  want  to  read  you  a 
beautiful  thing,"  and  without  further  preliminary 
he  began  to  read  that  exquisite  poem  written  by 
Alan  Seeger,  the  young  American  poet  who  fell 
not  long  ago  at  the  battle  of  the  Somme.  It  Is 
called  A  Rendezvous  with  Death.  Of  course  the 
reading  cheered  me  greatly!  But  when  I  dis- 
covered that  the  paper  from  which  he  was  reading 
was  dated  the  thirteenth  I  thought  I  should  faint. 
To  my  credit  be  it  said  that  my  face  did  not  reveal 
my  feelings,  perhaps  because  I  kept  it  carefully 
turned  away  from  him  until  I  had  regained  my 
composure.  Honestly,  I  felt  that  my  last  hope 
was  gone!  Nevertheless  I  managed  to  express 
my  admiration  for  the  beautiful  poem  and  my 
regret  that  so  promising  a  young  poet  should  have 
been  lost  to  the  world. 

But  after  all.  Sugar  Loaf  was  quite  worth  the 
trip.  As  we  ascended  the  more  than  eleven  hun- 
dred feet  in  the  small  car  we  could  see  miles  and 
miles  across  to  the  blue  ocean  and  the  mountains 
and  valleys  below.     The  beaches  of  Rio  lay  be- 


242  Below  the  Equator 

neath  us,  each  town  and  little  village  was  distinct. 
Thrilling  as  it  was,  it  was  glorious.  Had  the  cable 
broken  —  but  enough!  It  did  not  break  and  I 
am  glad  I  went. 


CHAPTER  XXXV 

THE  TREES  OF   BRAZIL 

THE  wonderful  forests  of  mahogany  and 
rosewood  in  Brazil  it  was  not  possible,  of 
course,  for  us  to  see.  Brazil  is  so  enormous  and 
contains  so  much  that  one  could  easily  spend  many 
a  year  there  in  interesting  travel.  It  occupies 
nearly  half  of  South  America  and  there  are  por- 
tions of  it  which  are  probably  the  least  known  of 
any  country  in  the  world.  Many  of  these  sections 
contain  murderous  and  cannibalistic  tribes.  Her 
boundaries  touch  every  nation  in  South  America 
except  Chile.  In  the  United  States  we  often  think 
of  Rio  in  Brazil  and  Buenos  Aires  in  Argentina 
as  being  only  a  few  hours  apart.  In  reality  they 
are  six  days  apart  on  the  ocean,  and  the  wretched 
interior  railroad  connecting  them  is  not  even  to  be 
considered  as  a  method  of  travel.  The  trains  run 
only  a  few  hours  each  day  and  not  at  all  at  night. 
The  passengers  must  get  off  and  spend  the  night 
in  almost  inconceivably  uncomfortable  inns  and 
the  time  required  to  make  the  trip  would  probably 
be  weeks. 

Often  we  wished  that  we  could  take  the  time 
243 


244  Below  the  Equator 

to  study  the  trees  here.  The  Flamboyant  and  the 
Guaresma  are  perhaps  the  most  glorious  because 
of  their  brilliant  purple  and  red  color,  but  the 
Cattete  is  a  superb  thing.  It  is  massive  and  grows 
in  many  groups  like  the  banyan,  except  that  the 
roots  of  the  banyan  fall  from  the  branches  into 
the  ground.  In  the  Cattete  the  roots  seem  to 
send  the  branches  up  into  the  trees,  giving  it  a 
gnarled  and  most  curious  appearance.  The  flow- 
ering vines  are  numerous.  The  beautiful  one 
which  we  had  seen  first  in  Peru,  the  Bellissima,  is 
here  in  profusion.  It  is  a  little  deeper  in  color 
here  and  is  called  the  Corraline,  The  Azalea  is  a 
good-sized  tree.  The  Cactus  is  about  thirty  feet 
high.  The  Avacado  (alligator  pear)  is  from 
forty  to  fifty  feet  in  height  and  is  beautiful  when 
laden  with  its  delicious  green  fruit.  Probably 
the  prettiest  of  the  fruit  trees,  however,  is  the 
enormous  Mango.  Symmetrical,  with  a  great 
trunk  in  the  center  and  an  almost  perfect  division 
of  the  foliage  branching  out  from  it,  its  fresh 
leaves  red  instead  of  green,  it  is  a  beautiful  thing 
to  see.  The  Papia  is  common  here  and  has  also 
a  strange  beauty.  In  addition  to  these,  thousands 
of  banana  trees,  and  the  breadfruit  tree,  giant 
bamboo,  Araucaria  pine,  all  sorts  of  fern  trees, 
and  a  superb  one,  resembling  the  magnolia,  fill  the 
valleys. 

Among  the  many  mountains  overlooking  Rio, 


The  Trees  of  Brazil  245 

Cavea  Is  prominent.  From  her  great  height  she 
looks  down  on  the  smiling  city  and  is  particularly 
noticeable  because  of  her  flat  top.  I  had  the 
greatest  desire  to  stand  on  that  table-land  and  see 
the  magnificent  view  that  she  was  gazing  down 
upon.  The  closest  we  came  to  her,  however,  was 
when  we  took  the  show  ride  of  Rio  out  to  the 
Tijuca  forest.  At  one  place  on  the  way  we  looked 
down  upon  her  uncovered  crown  and  the  great 
valleys  lying  between  us  —  looking  and  wonder- 
ing whether  any  other  view  in  the  world  could  be 
more  inspiring  or  more  imposing.  As  we  drove 
along  the  base  of  the  mountain  we  had  a  unique 
experience.  Our  motor  had  to  swerve  because  of 
a  line  of  crabs  which  were  crossing  the  road,  going 
from  one  little  bay  to  the  other.  I  cannot  re- 
member the  distance  between  these  two  points, 
but  it  was  certainly  a  strange  sight  to  see  these 
big  crabs  crossing  the  road. 

We  returned  by  a  different  route  and  as  we 
approached  the  junction  of  two  roads  the  car  was 
stopped  while  a  discussion  was  entered  into  as  to 
which  of  two  roads  we  should  choose  for  the  re- 
turn. One  of  the  roads  was  new  —  not  quite  fin- 
ished, in  fact.  It  was  said  to  be  very  beautiful, 
but  in  view  of  the  fact  that  it  was  the  rainy  season 
and  the  road  unfinished  there  was  an  element  of 
danger  in  taking  it.  Just  because  of  the  danger 
everybody  in  that  motor  except  myself  chose  that 


246  Below  the  Equator 

unfinished  road!  However,  I  had  fully  deter- 
mined at  the  beginning  of  the  trip  not  to  be  a 
"kill-joy"  on  any  occasion.  I  had  lived  through 
that  perilous  Sugar  Loaf  experience,  but  we  were 
still  pursued  by  the  number  thirteen.  Our  daily 
life  seemed  to  consist  in  receiving  telegrams  con- 
taining thai:  number,  or  bills  of  lading  or  various 
other  things.  But  I  acquiesced  in  this  determina- 
tion and  cast  my  vote  for  the  ocean  drive. 

The  drive  follows  a  sheer  precipice  along  the 
shore.  On  one  side  the  mountain  rises  with  hardly 
two  feet  between  it  and  the  machine.  There  is 
only  the  same  small  space  on  the  other  side,  and 
a  thousand  feet  below  one  can  see  the  swirling 
waters  of  the  ocean.  The  road  runs  for  miles 
and  miles  along  the  coast  and  motor  cars  are  per- 
mitted to  take  it  only  in  one  direction,  of  course, 
as  it  would  be  impossible  to  pass.  A  portion  of 
the  way  has  a  most  suggestive  name  —  one  which 
is  attractive  to  a  nervous  woman  who  occasionally 
takes  the  drive !  It  Is  called  the  Coffin  of  Ships. 
Many  ships  have  been  dashed  to  pieces  on  the 
rocks  here,  above  which  the  road  passes.  The 
beautiful  harbor  lies  just  beyond,  serene  and 
attractive,  but  the  pounding  waves  dash  up  great 
mountains  of  spray,  beat  mercilessly  against  this 
rocky  bed,  and  woe  to  the  ship  that  loses  her 
course  In  the  maelstrom.  Knowing  all  this  and 
thoroughly  alive  to  the  fact  that  unless  our  motor 


The  Trees  of  Brazil  247 

responded  perfectly  to  the  touch  of  the  driver,  so 
small  an  Impediment  as  a  little  stone  might  throw 
us  off  our  course  and  that  a  deviation  of  a  couple 
of  feet  would  hurl  us  over  those  awful  banks,  we 
sat  in  that  machine  and  dared  to  believe  that  we 
were  actually  enjoying  the  beauties  of  that  drive ! 
Talk  of  the  dangers  of  aviation!  Or  even  sub- 
marines I  The  thrills  we  got  along  that  coast 
were  enough  to  prepare  us  for  any  moment  which 
might  ever  afterward  come  to  us  In  life !  But 
nothing  could  have  been  more  glorious  than  that 
ocean  front,  the  high  mountains  on  one  side  and 
the  precipice  on  the  other  with  the  white  foaming 
water  so  far  below  breaking  against  the  rocks. 

The  weather  was  very  warm  while  we  were  in 
Rio.  It  must  have  been  over  ninety  degrees, 
although  we  could  not  tell  exactly  as  the  ther- 
mometers are  registered  differently  from  ours. 
On  the  ocean,  of  course.  It  had  been  cold,  and 
when  I  left  the  steamer  I  had  worn  a  broadcloth 
traveling  gown.  I  began  to  long  for  my  trunk  that 
I  might  don  white  summer  clothing.  But,  alas! 
I  did  not  get  that  much-desired  trunk  for  nearly 
two  days,  though  we  had  seen  It  taken  off  the 
steamer  promptly.  It  went  back  and  forth  from 
steamer  to  dock  for  that  length  of  time.  We  had 
arrived  at  Rio  at  a  very  interesting  moment,  for 
we  were  informed  that  they  were  in  the  midst  of 
a  revolution!     The  word  thrilled  us  a  bit.     We 


248  Below  the  Equator 

Imagined  that  the  next  few  days  would  provide 
interesting  data,  out  of  which  important  history 
might  be  written,  and  we  were  already  planning 
to  give  our  version  of  this  critical  moment  in  the 
annals  of  Brazil!  What  was  our  disgust,  there- 
fore, to  learn  that  this  awful  "revolution"  which 
was  being  discussed  at  such  a  lively  rate  was  noth- 
ing but  a  strike  of  the  stevedores ! 

No  amount  of  diplomacy  could  break  through 
the  miserable  red  tape  at  the  a  du  an  a  —  the  cus- 
tomhouse. Nothing  but  patience  availed. 
Woman-like,  I  wanted  that  white  suit  as  I  had 
never  wanted  anything  in  my  life  before.  All  my 
pleasure  and  sight-seeing  in  Rio  was  ruined  by  the 
fact  that  I  did  not  have  it.  For  the  first  and,  let 
me  add,  the  last  time  during  my  travels  in  South 
America  my  suit  case  did  not  contain  this  very 
useful  change  of  clothing  in  a  tropical  climate. 
With  a  generosity  of  spirit  and  possibly  with  the 
wisdom  born  of  many  years  of  contact  with  the 
feminine  persuasion,  my  husband  tried  every  way 
in  his  power  to  gratify  my  desire.  His  struggle 
at  the  aduana,  the  money  he  spent  for  cabs  and  to 
cross  the  palms  of  Influential  concerges  from  the 
hotel  would  make  an  Interesting  volume  all  by 
itself.  But  In  spite  of  all  this  I  did  not  get  my 
trunk  until  the  third  day  when  the  "  revolution  " 
was  over! 

Rio  has  the  reputation  of  being  very  wicked  and 


The  Trees  of  Brazil  249 

very  open  in  many  of  its  vices.  Frequently  after 
dinner  we  would  ride  or  walk  in  the  avenida, 
watching  the  giddy  crowd.  It  certainly  was  a 
crowd.  We  saw  many  of  the  unmistakable  type 
of  women,  some  of  whom  were  young  and  very 
beautiful.  It  was  a  sad  and  depressing  sight  to 
me  to  see  them  ogling  every  man  who  passed. 
Rio  flaunts  her  wickedness  openly,  claiming  that 
it  is  the  city's  safeguard.  They  say  that  people 
become  so  accustomed  to  seeing  these  women  that 
they  soon  cease  to  regard  them  as  attractive.  To 
a  stranger  who  Is  on  the  streets  at  night,  however, 
it  is  a  drawback.  It  makes  It  impossible  for  a 
decent  woman  to  appear  without  an  escort. 

Not  so  many  years  ago  Rio  was  a  terribly 
unhealthy  spot.  It  was  infested  with  mosquitoes. 
In  all  our  six  weeks'  stay,  however,  we  saw  not  a 
mosquito,  or  fly,  although  not  a  window  Is 
screened.  The  city  Is  now  absolutely  sanitary,  cer- 
tainly the  cleanest  one  I  ever  have  seen.  We 
considered  Buenos  Aires  immaculate  until  we  saw 
Rio.  A  Brazilian  woman  said  to  me  one  day,  "I 
love  Buenos  Aires,  but  after  living  in  Rio  it  always 
seems  so  dirty  I  "  I  was  really  amazed,  but  I  had 
'not  then  seen  Rio.  I  found  that  she  was  right. 
The  latter  Is  a  perfectly  kept  city.  As  a  proof  of 
their  watchfulness  they  tell  a  story  to  the  effect 
that  if  anyone  sees  a  mosquito  he  sends  In  a  tele- 
phone call  and  two  officials  are  sent  up  at  once. 


250  Below  the  Equator 

They  never  rest  until  they  discover  the  pool  and 
destroy  the  breeding  place  with  gasoline. 

One  never  can  do  justice  to  the  charms  of  Rio. 
Nature  has  done  so  much  for  her.  She  has  fash- 
ioned out  of  the  stern,  rugged  coast  of  Brazil  the 
most  picturesque  bay  In  all  the  world.  In  this  al- 
most perfect  harbor  of  a  hundred  miles  she  has 
united  mountains  In  jagged  peaks  and  ridges  with 
verdure-clad  hills  and  blue  ocean,  making  a  trop- 
ical paradise.  The  entrance  to  the  bay  Is  two 
thousand  feet  wide.  It  Is  defended  by  splendid 
forts,  one  at  the  foot  of  Sugar  Loaf  and  one  on 
the  opposite  side.  Thus  the  city  Is  protected  from 
any  foreign  foe.  The  whole  bay  is  dotted  with 
Islands.  Many  of  them  have  fine  buildings  and 
are  charming  little  sea  resorts. 

It  was  the  beginning  of  the  rainy  season  and 
sudden  showers  would  fall  with  the  sun  shining 
brilliantly  at  the  same  time.  In  Honolulu  they 
call  this  liquid  sunshine  —  a  good  name  for  It. 
The  clouds  are  light  and  the  showers  never  last 
long.  We  were  both  enamored  of  the  capital  of 
Rio,  Nictheroy,  and  spent  two  or  three  afternoons 
there.  The  water  here  forms  a  beautiful  bay. 
The  ocean  Is  dotted  with  queer-shaped  rocky 
islands  and  the  mainland  Is  a  succession  of  jagged 
mountain  peaks.  Sugar  Loaf,  Corcovado  and  the 
other  high  points  are  visible  from  the  bay,  and  a 
more  attractive  spot  could  scarcely  be  Imagined. 


I 


The  Trees  of  Brazil  251 

Some  day  we  hope  to  spend  several  months  here. 
The  summer  homes  are  charming  and  the  country 
rich  In  beautiful  trees  and  flowers. 

After  reaching  Brazil  my  diary  became  a  suc- 
cession of  superlatives.  One  cannot  write  or  talk 
without  using  them.  No  words  can  exaggerate 
the  beauty  of  the  land,  the  glory  of  the  vegetation, 
the  prolific  growth  of  all  things,  the  jungle  of 
flowers,  trees  and  vines  —  It  is  beyond  the  power 
of  pen  to  describe.  I  can  only  reiterate  that  this 
country  surpasses  in  beauty  anything  I  have  seen 
elsewhere  In  the  world.  We  compared  It  with 
California,  Switzerland,  Italy,  and  Egypt,  but  all 
fell  short.  None  equaled  In  magnificence  the 
splendor  of  Brazil. 

Many  times  at  beautiful  NIctheroy  we  stood 
on  the  wide  beach  and  watched  the  fishermen 
drawing  In  their  nets,  bringing  in  quantities  of 
shining  fish.  It  brought  back  memories  of  many 
winters  at  Redondo,  California,  where  we  had 
seen  similar  operations.  NIctheroy  Is  not  so  fash- 
ionable as  Petropolls,  but  more  beautiful.  It  is 
the  prettiest  seaport  on  the  coast.  It  is  only 
twenty  minutes  by  ferry  from  Rio,  and  whenever 
we  had  an  hour  or  two  of  leisure  we  usually  went 
there. 


CHAPTER  XXXVI 

TURNING  HOMEWARD 

THE  time  had  come  for  us  to  leave  Rio  and 
I  assure  you  that  we  did  so  with  great  reluc- 
tance. Brazil  had  proved  a  revelation  to  us,  for 
though  we  had  always  known  of  it  as  a  country 
of  vast  resources  we  usually  thought  of  It  in  con- 
nection with  the  Amazon  river  and  the  coffee  in- 
dustry. Now  we  had  been  In  Brazil  for  six  weeks 
and  we  had  seen  neither  of  these!  But  we  had 
been  spell-bound  with  what  we  had  seen.  We 
knew  that  there  were  vast  stretches  of  land  which 
we  could  never  visit  which  contained  wealth  im- 
possible to  compute.  Her  great  forests  of  the 
most  valuable  timber — the  mahogany,  rubber, 
sandalwood  and  rosewood  trees,  her  Immensd 
deposits  of  minerals,  her  plains  and  valleys  sweep- 
ing away  from  the  Amazon  and  holding  wealth 
which  would  make  millionaires  of  generations  yet 
unborn.  But  we  must  leave  it  all.  Our  time  was 
limited. 

The  war  news,  meager  as  it  was,  reached  us  at 
stated  Intervals  and  became  daily  more  and  more 
depressing.    The  terrible  state  of  affairs  In  Europe 

252 


Turning  Homeward  253 

grew  worse  and  worse.  The  possibility  that  wer 
ourselves  should  be  forced  to  take  a  hand  for  the 
sake  of  humanity  came  closer  each  day.  Our 
patient  President  had  done  all  that  he  could  to 
avoid  entering  into  the  quarrel.  Friend  and  foe 
alike  realized  this.  But  we  knew  that  each  day 
brought  nearer  the  dreaded  declaration  and  that 
the  homeward  journey  ought  to  be  begun.  We 
began  to  realize  how  far  we  were  from  home. 
The  swiftest  letter  was  six  weeks  old  when  it 
reached  us.  We  had  promised  our  loved  ones  at 
home  that  we  would  not  return  by  way  of  the 
Atlantic  and  face  the  danger  from  submarines. 
This  meant  retracing  our  steps,  making  a  straight 
journey  from  Rio  to  Chicago  by  way  of  the  Pacific, 
and  again  crossing  the  Andes.  This  would  take 
about  thirty-five  days  at  best.  But  In  order  to 
make  a  beginning  we  had  to  return  from  Rio  to 
Buenos  Aires  by  way  of  the  Atlantic,  a  five  days' 
trip. 

For  days  we  studied  which  ship  we  had  better 
take.  The  Spanish  line  was  neutral.  The  Eng- 
lish one,  which  we  knew  we  should  find  most 
comfortable,  we  had  no  desire  to  take  as  it,  of 
course,  was  in  the  war.  All  ships  were  off  their 
schedule.  Those  due  on  the  first  of  the  month 
came  in  about  the  fifteenth  —  often  later.  After 
our  experience  on  the  Leon  Trece,  where  we  were 
packed  in  like  sardines,  that  line  did  not  appeal  to 


254  Below  the  Equator 

us  as  a  desirable  vehicle  of  ocean  travel.  In  case 
of  accident  it  would  be  awful.  Every  one  of  those 
men  in  the  steerage  carried  a  long  knife,  and  little 
chance  would  one  have  in  case  of  fire  or  other 
disaster.  I  shiver  yet  when  I  think  of  the  danger 
we  ran  on  that  ship.  So  of  the  two  evils  we  chose 
the  lesser.  We  decided  that  we  would  take  the 
first  English  ship  which  came  in.  None  was  due 
for  several  days,  so  we  decided  to  go  to  Sao 
Paulo,  through  the  beautiful  coffee  country,  while 
we  waited,  and  thence  on  to  Santos,  where  we 
could  catch  the  steamer. 

It  had  rained  steadily  for  three  days,  but  we 
chose  a  fine  day  on  which  to  take  this  trip.  When 
we  decided  that  we  could  not  wait  longer,  but 
must  go  on  the  next  day  whether  it  rained  or  not, 
luck  suddenly  favored  us.  At  ^ve  o'clock  in  the 
morning  (our  usual  hour  for  taking  trains)  we 
departed.  The  morning  had  broken  clear  and 
beautiful.  Sao  Paulo  is  a  day's  ride  from  Rio.  A 
part  of  the  journey  is  through  a  hill  country  with 
immense  woods  and  thick  undergrowth  of  tropical 
vegetation.  The  earth  wears  a  vivid  green  mantle 
as  far  as  the  eye  can  see.  Trees  of  fantastic 
shapes,  with  twisted  stems,  reach  up  a  hundred  or 
more  feet.  Many  palms  of  different  varieties, 
dwarfed,  bushy  plants,  banana  forests,  etc.,  are 
passed,  heavy  with  their  beautiful  fruit.  From 
out  the  heavy  growths,  orchids  and  other  lovely 


Turning  Homeward  255 

blossoms  peep.  The  road  revealed  tunnels,  val- 
leys and  cultivated  fields  in  quick  succession.  By 
eight  o'clock  the  sun  had  come  out  gloriously.  It 
was  unbearably  hot,  but  it  was  good  to  see  the 
sun  again.  This  railroad  has  been  most  carefully 
planned.  It  cost  millions  and  it  must  have  taken 
gigantic  labor  to  put  it  through.  A  large  part  of 
it  runs  by  a  cable.  The  bamboo  trees  grow  in 
great  clusters  of  from  four  to  ten  stalks  and  were 
especially  pretty  here  with  their  long  feathery 
leaves  bending  gracefully  from  their  high  stalks 
like  waving  ostrich  plumes.  Avacado  trees  were 
here  heavily  laden.  Lemon,  lime  and  orange, 
breadfruit  and  mango  trees,  we  passed  them  all 
until  at  last  the  great  coffee  fields  of  which  we  had 
heard  so  much  were  before  us.  They  were  a  joy 
to  see.  In  regular  rows,  thousands  and  thousands 
of  them,  the  coffee  fields  are  planted.  At  short 
intervals  between  them  the  banana  trees  grow. 
They  claim  that  this  heightens  the  production  of 
the  coffee.  Whatever  the  reason,  the  large  leaf 
of  the  banana  tree  spreads  out  protectingly  like 
sentinels  guarding  the  precious  fields  before  them. 
The  red  berries  of  the  coffee  glisten  in  the  sun 
like  drops  of  blood  and  I  can  imagine  no  lovelier 
sight  than  these  scarlet  drops  amid  the  green 
foliage. 

This  part  of   Brazil  is   the  most  fertile  and 
productive  and  under  the  best  cultivation.    On  the 


256  Below  the  Equator 

train  going  up  we  had  a  most  uncomfortable  day 
coach,  and  every  seat  was  occupied.  In  spite  of 
the  inconvenience  of  that  twelve-hour  ride,  how- 
ever, we  were  alert  and  interested  every  moment, 
never  closing  our  eyes  lest  we  should  lose  some  of 
the  wonderful  scenery.  When  we  first  took  the 
train  in  the  morning  some  of  the  clouds  were  still 
hanging  to  the  peaks.  It  was  pretty  and  curious 
to  watch  the  mist  raising  her  skirts,  as  it  were, 
and  scurrying  away  before  the  flood  of  brilliant 
sunshine  which  in  this  country  makes  day  a  blaz- 
ing jewel  set  between  the  dawn  and  the  dusk. 

Our  curiosity  was  aroused  over  some  peculiar 
sand  hills  about  from  three  to  seven  feet  high. 
At  first  they  were  few  and  far  between,  but  they 
increased  until  they  numbered  thousands.  They 
looked  like  monolith  ant  hills,  or  large  bake  ovens. 
We  were  astonished  to  learn  that  they  were  really 
the  former.  We  got  close  enough  to  peek  into 
the  interior.  They  were  built  in  layers.  In  little 
separate  stories  as  it  were.  In  this  country  the 
ants  are  as  wicked  in  their  destruction  as  are  the 
locusts.  They  clean  things  up  until  nothing  is  left 
in  their  path.  These  ants  are  not  large,  but  they 
travel  in  armies,  and  when  they  start  out  they 
follow  a  straight  line  and  take  possession  of  every- 
thing in  their  way,  eating  up  everything  with  which 
they  come  in  contact,  both  in  house  and  field.  They 
come  in  a  night  and  are  gone  in  a  day,  and  no  one 


Turning  Homeward  257 

knows  whence  they  come  and  whither  they  go. 
There  is  nothing  to  do,  it  seems,  but  submit  to  the 
plague.  There  are  certain  places,  Sao  Paulo  Is 
one  of  them,  where  If  one  lays  down  a  cracker 
or  a  lump  of  sugar  for  a  moment  It  will  be  a  mass 
of  these  ants  in  less  time  than  It  takes  to  tell  it, 
although  there  may  have  been  none  about  before 
the  cracker  was  placed  there. 

Now,  I  have  a  habit  when  I  cannot  sleep  of 
nibbling  a  piece  of  dry  bread  or  a  cracker  in  the 
wee  sma'  hours  of  the  night.  I  often  reach  out 
my  hand  and  get  It  from  some  convenient  spot 
where  I  have  placed  It  near  my  bed.  Fortunately 
for  me  I  had  been  warned  of  these  little  Insects 
and  the  only  way  In  which  I  could  safeguard  my 
cracker  was  to  suspend  it  by  a  cord  from  the 
electric  light  near  my  bed ! 

All  along  the  road  between  Rio  and  the  Sao 
Paulo  are  flourishing  little  towns.  When  we 
reached  the  latter  place  it  was  very  warm.  It  is 
a  queer  thing  that  the  real  tropics  are  not  nearly 
so  warm  as  the  semi-tropics.  Panama  and  Rio, 
for  instance,  were  the  warmest  places  we  were 
in  during  our  journey. 


CHAPTER  XXXVII 

SAO  PAULO 

THE  early  history  of  Sao  Paulo  is  very  in- 
teresting. The  legend  is  that  it  owes  its 
prosperity  to  the  friendly  relations  in  the  begin- 
ning of  the  sixteenth  century  between  a  Portuguese 
sailor,  Joao  Ramalho,  and  Tybirica,  chief  of  the 
Guayanas,  who  dominated  the  country.  The 
sailor  courted  the  chief's  daughter,  succeeded  in 
winning  her  love  and  married  her.  He  became 
so  friendly  with  the  tribe  that  when  an  expedition 
came  from  Portugal  the  chief  gave  them  a  friendly 
reception.  The  Portuguese  crown  was  so  grateful 
that  in  return  it  gave  the  sailor  a  grant  of  land, 
which  made  him  a  rich  man.  From  this  marriage 
there  sprang  a  race  of  people  known  as  Mame- 
lucas.  Later  they  called  themselves  Paulistas. 
These  people  had  much  to  do  with  the  develop- 
ment of  Brazil.  They  grew  in  number,  and  they 
were  adventurous  and  brave.  They  spread  out  In 
warlike  expeditions  and  went  as  far  as  the  borders 
of  Bolivia.  Their  success  in  war  brought  many 
new  Indians  into  the  country.  They  opened  it 
up,  discovered  diamonds  and  gold  and  built  large 

258 


Sao  Paulo  259 


villages.  Their  prisoners  they  always  made  slaves. 
To  this  slave-hunting  the  Jesuits,  who  were 
large  in  number,  objected.  Through  their  in- 
fluence the  unfortunate  condition  of  these  slaves 
was  greatly  mitigated.  The  advance  of  the  Paul- 
Istas  was  very  great.  They  were  a  virile  people 
and  showed  themselves  the  most  energetic  on  the 
continent.  They  were  imbued  with  the  spirit  of 
freedom  and  their  name  deserves  to  be  perpet- 
uated among  the  ardent  spirits  of  the  eighteenth 
century. 

We  found  Sao  Paulo  a  region  containing  more 
white  people  than  is  usual  in  Brazil.  And  we  were 
struck  here,  as  elsewhere,  with  the  fact  that  though 
settled  and  practically  owned  by  Portugal,  the 
people  retained  their  love  of  the  French  language. 
Although  everybody  spoke  Portuguese,  yet  we 
never  failed  to  find  that  all,  including  the  servants, 
also  understood  French.  The  city  is  very  inter- 
esting, decidedly  modern  and  up-to-date  in  its 
buildings  and  stores.  Its  Municipal  Theater  is 
said  to  be  the  finest  in  the  world.  It  is  certainly  a 
model.  It  stands  out  conspicuously  across  from 
the  viaduct  in  the  center  of  the  city.  This  theater 
is  nicely  arranged  for  the  comfort  and  con- 
venience of  the  people.  Each  person  has  an  easy 
armchair,  which  is  placed  at  least  four  inches 
from  the  next  one,  and  the  rows  run  the  entire 
width  of  the  house.     The  chair  right  in  front  of 


260  Below  the  Equator 

you  stands  to  the  back  of  the  open  space  between 
those  in  front  of  it,  thus  giving  each  one  a  clear 
view  of  the  stage.  There  are  only  side  aisles. 
Gold  and  white  decorations,  brilliant  red  carpets 
on  white  marble  stairs,  give  it  quite  a  European 
air.  It  has  handsome  tessellated  mosaic  floors, 
Italian  marble  pillars,  a  splendid  foyer,  gold 
mirrors,  gold  furniture,  a  perfect  ballroom, 
and  fine  mural  paintings  —  quite  a  wonderful 
affair! 

From  the  Trianon  one  gets  a  good  view  of  the 
city.  The  Trianon  is  a  stately  pavilion  with  white 
marble  floor,  and  containing  some  little  restau- 
rants where  one  can  have  afternoon  tea  and  where 
the  floor  is  splendid  for  dancing.  It  is  just  oppo- 
site one  of  the  beautiful  parks,  is  built  on  a  high 
hill,  and  is  much  frequented  by  the  fashionables 
from  five  o'clock  on.  Light  suppers  were  served 
here,  and  it  is  a  good  place  to  see  the  elite  of 
Sao  Paulo.  The  beautiful  residences  are  conspic- 
uous for  the  flowering  vines,  even  the  trees  being 
covered  with  them.  The  rose-colored  Bugin- 
villea  is  exquisite.  It  was  hard  to  realize  that  this 
was  the  beginning  of  their  winter.  It  was  about 
like  early  fall  at  home,  a  little  cooler,  perhaps,  but 
I  was  still  wearing  my  thinnest  waists  and  white 
dresses.  There  is  really  very  little  change  in  the 
climate  here.  Their  seasons  are  the  wet  and  the 
dry  seasons. 


Sao  Paulo  261 


As  we  were  walking  In  Sao  Paulo  one  day  we 
were  stopped  by  a  quaint  and  beautiful  procession. 
It  was  Holy  Week,  and  in  this  Catholic  country 
there  were  many  evidences  of  the  religious  fervor 
of  the  people.  Bishops  and  priests,  and  many 
hundreds  of  people  carrying  silken  banners  and 
marching  to  music,  passed  us  by.  In  the  center 
of  this  procession  was  carried  a  large  statue  of 
Christ  falling  beneath  his  cross;  also  one  of  the 
Blessed  Virgin  with  a  crown  of  lights  about  her 
head  and  gloriously  bedecked  with  jewels  and  gor- 
geous robes.  It  looked  like  the  staging  of  that 
beautiful  opera.  The  Jewels  of  the  Madonna;  but 
here  in  the  principal  street  of  Sao  Paulo  It  was 
a  part  of  the  worship  of  Palm  Sunday.  We  were 
quite  thrilled  and  impressed.  My  husband  stood 
with  uncovered  head,  as  did  all  the  rest  of  the  men, 
until  the  revered  statues  had  passed.  Thousands 
of  people  lined  the  streets. 

Sao  Paulo  Is  full  of  pleasant  surprises.  Though 
its  thoroughfares  are  narrow,  the  town  reveals 
great  business  ability.  The  streets  are  crowded 
and  contain  fine  shops.  The  car  conductors  wear 
pretty  uniforms  of  gray  with  gold  facings,  while 
the  policemen  In  black  with  red  trimmings  and 
carrying  a  white  baton  are  very  picturesque.  Lot- 
tery ticket  vendors,  as  Is  the  case  all  over  South 
America,  Infest  the  streets;  but  we  had  become 
so  accustomed  to  this  that  It  no  longer  annoyed  us. 


262  Below  the  Equator 

Women  go  about  bareheaded,  wearing  furs  or  thin 
white  dresses,  according  to  their  own  tastes.  They 
fairly  flood  the  streets.  They  seem  to  love  the 
bright  colors,  for  yellow,  blue,  green,  and  red  are 
worn  In  shawls  and  used  for  handkerchiefs.  In- 
deed, one  may  see  the  colors  of  the  rainbow  almost 
anywhere  In  South  America.  The  men  usually 
wear  somber  black,  and  so  many  of  them  are  en 
Into  (mourning)  that  they  are  noticeable  because 
of  the  black  straw  hat. 

As  the  opera  season  had  not  yet  opened,  we 
did  not  have  opportunity  to  see  the  women  at  any 
brilliant  evening  affair,  but  the  women  of  Rio  and 
Sao  Paulo  are  celebrated  for  their  elaborate  dis- 
play In  gowns  and  jewels.  In  the  latter  city  we 
could  not  but  observe  the  singing  of  the  birds. 
It  was  very  striking.  We  stayed  at  the  Hotel 
Rotisslrle,  which  maintained  a  splendid  table,  but, 
like  most  of  the  hotels  in  South  America,  left 
much  to  be  desired  in  point  of  comfort  in  rooms 
and  baths.  In  fact,  the  bath  in  most  of  these 
hotels  is  conspicuous  for  its  absence. 

A  very  pretty  excursion  out  from  Sao  Paulo  Is 
a  ride  to  CantarelrIa,  where  the  water-works  are 
built.  A  fine  view  Is  obtainable  from  the  top  of 
the  hill.  The  railroad  follows  the  course  of  a 
little  river,  winding  along  the  green  banks.  The 
power-house  is  wonderfully  constructed  and  the 
city  Is  justly  proud  of  this  splendid  piece  of  work. 


I 


Sao  Paulo  263 


A  pretty  park  surrounds  it  and  Is  well  kept.  We 
spent  a  couple  of  hours  in  it  during  the  afternoon. 

Sao  Paulo  is  the  greatest  coffee  producing  region 
in  the  world.  Usually  it  is  the  Santos  coffee  we 
hear  of,  Santos  being  the  name  of  the  seaport 
from  which  it  is  shipped.  Like  the  other  tropical 
lands,  Brazil  has  a  great  deal  of  her  surface  high 
above  the  sea  level,  and  as  Sao  Paulo  is  between 
two  high  ranges  there  is  great  possibility  of  culti- 
vation. The  coffee  is,  of  course,  the  greatest  of 
her  industries.  Other  things  grown  are  sugar, 
cotton,  rice,  tobacco,  fruits,  and  cereals.  The 
coffee  Is  sent  out  to  all  parts  of  the  world.  We 
had  seen  the  coffee  grown  in  Honolulu  and  mar- 
veled at  the  output.  But  here  Is  the  real  coffee 
country  of  the  world. 

The  coffee  plant  Is  a  shrub,  or  small  tree,  from 
fourteen  to  eighteen  feet  high.  It  has  a  long, 
slender  trunk,  branching  at  the  top,  and  when  it 
is  In  bloom  it  is  beautiful  to  behold.  The  blossoms 
are  profuse  and  the  perfume  strong  but  delicate. 
At  the  coffee-picking  time  every  available  person 
on  the  plantation  is  called  Into  service.  All  other 
work  ceases  for  the  time.  It  Is  a  tremendous 
thing  here,  because  Brazil  produces  three-fourths 
of  the  world's  supply,  and  Sao  Paulo  furnishes 
one-half  of  Brazil's  production.  A  Portuguese 
settler  planted  the  first  bush  In  Rio  in  1760.  From 
that  bush  what  a  wealth  of  production  has  come  I 


264  Below  the  Equator 

In  1903  the  government  forbade  the  planting  of 
any  more  coffee  trees,  and  the  supply  now  exceeds 
the  demand.  All  the  work  of  picking  the  coffee 
must  be  done  In  one  day — the  gathering,  wash- 
ing, and  grating.  This  Is  why  It  takes  so  many 
laborers. 

Sao  Paulo  Is  In  advance  of  all  other  cities  on 
the  continent  In  matters  of  education.  The  reli- 
gion Is,  of  course,  Roman  Catholic.  The  city  Is 
up  to  the  minute  when  It  comes  to  matters  of 
money.  It  Is  said  that  one  can  easily  obtain  twelve 
per  cent  here  on  a  good  mortgage  loan. 

One  morning  as  I  returned  from  early  mass  I 
saw  a  crowd  of  six  or  seven  people  around  one 
of  the  natives  who  stood  In  the  center  of  the  street. 
As  I  do  not  lack  the  chief  attribute  of  my  sex,  I 
wandered  over  to  see  what  was  going  on.  With 
their  usual  politeness  they  moved  aside  to  make 
room  for  the  senorita,  3,  title  which  is  the  height 
of  their  attempt  to  be  polite  to  one  who  has  passed 
the  age  of  forty.  This  word  senorita  pleased  me 
immensely  when  first  I  went  to  South  America, 
because  it  carried  the  Insinuation  that  I  bore  my 
years  lightly.  But  at  its  constant  repetition  I 
became  suspicious  and  found  that  with  the  suavity 
of  the  southern  countries  they  were  well  aware  of 
the  weak  point  In  women  and  readily  conceded 
them  in  this  title  all  the  gallantry  of  the  nation. 
However,  I  did  not  object  to  the  greeting  on  this 


Sao  Paulo  265 


morning.  Leaning  over  a  few  children,  I  saw  a 
funny  little  object  on  the  ground.  It  was  about 
ten  inches  long  and  at  first  glance  looked  like  an 
enormous  rat.  On  closer  observation,  however,  I 
saw  that  it  had  a  hard  shell  like  a  tortoise,  a 
peaked  head,  and  funny  bright  eyes.  It  was  mov- 
ing along  and  evidently  trying  to  get  away.  Every- 
body was  talking  Portuguese  at  a  lively  gait. 
^^  Que  es  estof'^  I  asked,  which  was  nearest  to 
Portuguese  I  could  get.  Amidst  the  flood  of 
foreign  language  which  now  descended  upon  my 
head,  I  remembered  to  speak  French,  and  in 
French  they  replied.  I  understood  that  I  was 
looking  at  an  armadillo.  This  little  animal  is 
considered  by  the  natives  the  greatest  luxury  in 
the  way  of  food,  the  most  toothsome  article  to  be 
had.  A  native  will  spend  hours  hunting  one  and 
separate  himself  from  all  the  money  he  has  to 
buy  one.  He  cooks  it  in  the  shell,  then  digs  it  out 
and  eats  it.  The  man  who  owned  this  one  looked 
with  pride  upon  his  possession,  told  me  he  would 
have  it  for  almuerzo,  and  assured  me  that  no 
money  could  buy  it.  Evidently  he  thought  I  had 
designs  upon  it,  while  all  the  time  I  was  shivering 
at  the  thought  of  eating  what  looked  to  me  like  a 
terrible  hard-shelled  rat. 

Brazil's  greatest  asset  is  her  rivers.  Along 
their  shores  are  valuable  grounds,  and  it  is  amaz- 
ing in  these  days  to  see  how  she  is  putting  them 


266  Below  the  Equator 

into  use.  She  has  a  fine  system  of  river  transpor- 
tation and  it  will  not  be  long  until  her  fertile  acres 
along  these  banks  will  become  even  greater  pro- 
ducers than  they  are  now.  Of  course  her  greatest 
drawback  is  the  vast  jungle  and  the  reptiles  and 
poisonous  insects  which  infest  it.  Then,  too,  much 
of  her  territory  is  low,  hot,  and  unhealthy.  But 
they  point  with  pride  to  Santos  —  once  the  most 
unhealthy  spot  on  the  globe  and  now  a  model  of 
sanitation.  It  will  take  time,  of  course,  but  even- 
tually they  will  clean  up  this  wealth-producing 
country  around  the  famous  Amazon.  When  this 
is  done  and  the  rich  soil  watered  by  the  river,  and 
possessing  the  finest  climate  in  the  world,  becomes 
a  fertile  plain  for  the  raising  of  cattle  and  grain, 
there  will  be  no  limit  to  its  possibilities.  Our 
generation  may  not  see  it,  but  wise  heads  are 
already  recognizing  the  great  future  which  lies 
before  Brazil.  She  is  destined  to  feed  the  world. 
Once  rid  of  the  pests  of  her  jungle  and  the  dis- 
eases bred  for  lack  of  sanitation,  Brazil  will  ofl^cr 
opportunities  not  to  be  found  elsewhere  in  the 
world.  She  needs  capital.  No  nation  can  work 
without  it.  But  the  adventurous  spirit  of  the 
other  nations  will  provide  it,  and  in  time  she  will 
conquer  her  death-dealing  forces  and  take  her 
place  at  the  head  of  the  hst. 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII 

THE    SNAKE    HOSPITAL 

ONE  of  our  trips  from  Sao  Paulo  was  a  motor 
ride  to  Butantan.  I  have  already  men- 
tioned that  here  was  a  hospital  and  a  farm  for 
the  study  of  the  poison  of  snakes  and  deadly 
insects.  We  saw  dead  ones  in  alcohol  (horrible 
things!)  and  numerous  live  ones  in  little  villages 
built  in  the  ground  for  them  to  live  in.  Curious 
oven-shaped  mounds  are  their  homes,  and  plateaus 
of  grass  and  running  water  formed  streets  for 
them  to  wander  in.  It  made  me  shiver  to  look  at 
them,  and  of  course  their  bites  mean  death.  The 
institution  itself,  however,  is  wonderful.  They 
have  a  laboratory  attached  where  cultures  and 
serums  are  studied  out  to  counteract  these  venom- 
ous bites  and  also  for  cures  for  the  deadly  diseases 
which  assail  the  country.  By  the  elimination  of 
the  mosquito,  the  yellow  fever  which  once  raged 
in  the  cities  has  been  practically  exterminated, 
and  they  now  hope  to  save  as  many  lives  by 
finding  an  antidote  for  the  snake  poison.  Thou- 
sands of  working  people  die  each  year  from 
these  bites.     They  told  me  at  Sao   Paulo  that 

267 


268  Below  the  Equator 

twenty  thousand  died  annually  In  Brazil  from  this 
cause. 

We  left  Sao  Paulo  at  ten  in  the  morning  and 
had  as  pretty  a  ride  down  the  ocean  as  one  could 
wish.  The  drop  of  two  or  three  thousand  feet  is 
made  very  quickly  and  gives  beautiful  views  of 
the  mountains.  The  cable  track  which  brought  us 
down  is  a  double  one,  and  this  time  we  had  com- 
fortable seats  on  a  good  train.  Santos  is  pretty 
and  quaint.  Its  houses  are  mostly  a  rich  yellowish 
tone  —  a  cream  color,  in  fact.  In  Rio  the  soft 
colors  are  mixed  with  striking  blues  and  pinks, 
and  many  times  the  contrast  is  startling.  But  here 
in  Santos  the  soft  colors  prevail  and  are  most 
agreeable  to  the  eye  of  the  traveler  from  a  north- 
ern clime  who  is  not  accustomed  to  the  brilliant 
sunshine  of  South  America. 

One  of  the  queer  things  In  regard  to  these 
southern  houses  Is  the  decoration  of  the  outside. 
Ever  since  we  left  New  Orleans  we  found  in 
different  cities  pictures  painted  on  the  exterior  of 
the  houses,  a  custom  which  prevails  in  Cuba  also. 
These  scenes  vary.  Some  are  agricultural  and 
some  are  interiors,  and  often  they  cover  the  entire 
front  or  side  of  a  house.  Often  the  paintings  are 
very  good,  but  It  struck  us  as  a  queer  taste.  I 
could  never  understand,  either,  just  how  they  kept 
those  paintings  In  good  condition,  especially  dur-'^ 
ing  the  rainy  season,  and  finally  came  to  the  con- 


Photo   by    E.    M.    Newman 

Municipal  Theatkr,  Sao  Paulo,  Brazil 


Photo   by    E.    M.    Newman 

Snake    Farm    Near    Sao    Paulo.    Brazil 


The  Snake  Hospital  269 

elusion  that  these  mural  decorations  must  surely 
have  to  be  renewed  each  dry  season. 

The  people  here  are  very  suave.  The  men 
always  bow  politely  to  strangers,  and  if  they 
recognize  that  a  woman  is  a  stranger  they  are 
most  deferential.  Coming  as  we  did  from  cold, 
bustling,  business-like  Chicago,  these  pretty  man- 
ners of  the  people  in  the  streets  struck  us  forcibly. 
I  cannot  say  honestly  that  I  should  like  to  copy 
all  the  customs  of  South  America,  but  there  are 
many  upon  which  we  could  certainly  improve.  In 
cordiality  and  politeness  they  certainly  lead  us. 

Before  starting  out  to  explore  the  city  we  began 
making  inquiries  for  the  home  steamers.  Daily 
the  war  news  made  us  more  anxious.  Our  hearts 
were  heavy.  With  two  sons  to  enlist,  we  began 
to  feel  most  desirous  of  returning  to  our  own 
country.  We  were  to  wait  at  Santos  until  we  could 
get  a  vessel,  and  by  this  time  we  had  made  up  our 
minds  to  take  anything  which  came  in  sight.  We 
heard  that  there  was  a  French  liner  in  the  harbor. 
She  was  a  freighter,  but  was  willing  to  take  two 
or  three  first-class  passengers.  We  went  aboard 
and  looked  her  over.  She  was  black  from  stem 
to  stern,  not  at  all  clean,  but  we  decided  that  if 
she  sailed  first  we  would  go  aboard  her.  She 
gave  us  little  hope  of  leaving  for  eight  or  ten  days, 
so  after  settling  ourselves  in  the  hotel  we  set  about 
to  see  the  city.     We  found  it  a  charming  place. 


270  Below  the  Equator 

The  harbor  is  picturesque,  the  mountains  covered 
with  tropical  growth,  and  there  are  many  hand- 
some homes.  One  especially  artistic  one  had  a 
single  row  of  magnificent  palms  straight  across 
the  front  yard.  I  cannot  express  how  beautiful  it 
was.  These  trees  grew  to  a  height  of  eighty  feet 
without  branching.  Their  enormous  trunks  must 
have  been  three  or  four  feet  in  diameter,  and  in 
color  resembled  an  elephant's  hide  —  a  medium 
shade  of  gray  and  soft  as  velvet.  The  top  is 
crowned  with  royal  green  ostrich  plumes  —  they 
resemble  these  light  feathers  more  than  anything 
else  of  which  I  can  think. 

The  broad  streets  of  Santos  are  clean,  and  the 
plazas  filled  with  flowers,  banyan,  bamboo,  and 
fern  trees,  which  together  with  pools  of  water 
and  quaint  bridges,  made  them  lovely  and  charm- 
ing places  in  which  to  sit  and  watch  the  people. 
We  motored  to  one  of  the  beaches  —  and  a  won- 
derful beach  it  was.  Miles  and  miles  of  hard 
white  sand  with  the  surf  fairly  touching  the 
wheels  of  the  car!  Several  fine  hotels  are  built 
along  this  drive,  and  pretty  summer  homes.  Many 
islands  dot  the  harbor  and  are  profuse  with  trop- 
ical growth.  One  of  these  we  named  "  The  Island 
of  the  Holy  Cross  "  because  a  beautiful  fern  tree 
of  enormous  size  stood  high  and  lofty  in  the  form 
of  a  cross  upon  it.  This  splendid  green  crucifix  on 
the  pinnacle  of  the  mountain  was  a  curious  and 


The  Snake  Hospital  271 

novel  sight.  I  was  told  afterward  that  this 
particular  island  was  infested  with  the  deadliest 
of  snakes.  I  try  to  forget  this  piece  of  informa- 
tion when  I  remember  it,  for  it  will  always  be  to 
me  "The  Island  of  the  Holy  Cross." 

This  was  a  drive  we  shall  long  remember.  We 
returned  to  the  Sportsmen's  Hotel  for  luncheon  — 
a  delightful  one  it  proved  to  be.  The  most  deli- 
cious coffee  in  the  world  is,  of  course,  to  be  had 
in  Brazil.  We  knew  that  we  should  be  spoiled 
for  any  other  as  long  as  we  lived.  It  is  black  as 
ink,  and  simply  delicious.  Of  course  it  is  always 
the  cafe  au  lait.  Since  leaving  the  Isthmus,  since 
leaving  New  Orleans,  in  fact,  we  had  not  seen 
any  cream  except  in  Buenos  Aires.  Many  reasons 
are  given  for  this.  One  is  that  they  claim  it  is 
impossible  to  keep  it  in  this  climate.  But  what- 
ever the  reason,  we  could  not  buy  it  except  in  tin 
cans  brought  all  the  way  from  New  York  or 
Philadelphia,  and  it  was  exorbitant  In  price  — 
practically  out  of  the  reach  of  an  ordinary  pocket- 
book.  I  suspected  that  the  real  reason  one  could 
not  buy  cream  was  that  they  themselves  do  not 
care  for  it,  but  like  the  boiled  milk  better.  We 
soon  became  accustomed  to  it  ourselves  and  ended 
by  being  very  fond  of  it. 

Another  charming  sea  resort  was  called  Gua- 
ruga.  It  has  a  large  hotel  which  Is  said  to  be  the 
best  managed  one  in  Brazil  —  run  by  the  owners 


272  Below  the  Equator 

of  the  Ritz-Carlton.  We  had  observed  It  as  we 
went  up  to  Rio,  picturesquely  situated  near  some 
rock  islands  where  a  magnificent  spray  washes 
mountain  high.  We  watched  it  from  the  ship  and 
determined  to  return  there  and  stay  a  week.  But 
we  were  now  too  anxious  to  get  home  and  did 
not  wish  to  be  more  than  a  day's  journey  away 
from  Santos,  In  case  a  steamer  of  some  kind  should 
come  Into  port.  The  morning  papers  stated  that 
President  Wilson  had  asked  for  half  a  million 
men,  and  we  felt  that  war  was  inevitable. 

One  Is  told  never  to  smell  the  flowers  In  Peru, 
and  In  Brazil  never  to  touch  the  insects,  especially 
the  butterfly.  The  deadliest  germs  often  linger 
there.  The  most  Innocent  looking  bug  Is  danger- 
ous. One  small  one  has  a  sting  so  terrible  that 
the  body  of  a  negro  Is  said  to  turn  white  if  stung 
by  one.  Is  all  this  beauty  which  we  seek  to  possess 
only  veneer?  But  there  Is  hope  for  Brazil. 
Already  by  watchful  care  and  courageous  work 
they  have  made  portions  of  the  country  as  healthy 
as  splendid  old  North  America. 

Though  It  was  their  fall,  the  temperature  was 
eighty-eight.  In  spite  of  the  heat  we  found  the 
beach  cool  and  delightful.  The  well-built  and  spa- 
cious hotel  surrounded  by  large  gardens  was 
enticing,  but  we  spent  most  of  our  time  on  the 
beach  watching  the  bathers.  This  beach  was  by 
far  the  most  Imposing  of  any  that  we  saw  In  South 


The  Snake  Hospital  273 

America,  and  as  I  have  already  said,  the  cuisine 
of  the  hotel  is  unexcelled.  But  these  comforts 
only  add  to  the  natural  beauty  of  the  place.  Noth- 
ing could  be  more  picturesque  than  this  bay  filled 
with  beautiful  rocky  islands  washed  by  the  ocean 
spray.  There  are  many  little  inland  spots,  safe 
bathing  pools  between  the  islands  and  the  shore 
which  make  the  life  line  unnecessary.  The  large 
open  space  has  the  latter,  of  course,  but  most  of 
the  bathers  choose  the  narrow  straits  lying  nearer 
the  shore.  We  climbed  out  to  one  of  these  and 
watched  the  children,  from  three  to  six,  and  old 
men  and  women  enjoying  the  sport.  The  tide  was 
coming  in.  Twice  we  had  to  move  from  our  point 
of  vantage,  but  each  time  we  found  another  where 
we  could  still  enjoy  the  sight. 

It  was  Holy  Week,  and  the  fifth  of  April.  As 
a  good  Catholic  I  made  my  three  visits  to  the 
church  (a  religious  custom  among  us)  and  went 
to  Holy  Communion.  My  husband  does  not  share 
my  religious  beliefs,  but  he  loves  the  ceremony  of 
the  church  and  accompanied  me  to  the  early  morn- 
ing mass.  We  both  had  a  feeling  of  depression 
of  which  we  could  not  rid  ourselves.  In  spite  of 
the  joyous  celebration  which  is  always  particu- 
larly enthusiastic  in  these  southern  countries,  we 
could  not  rejoice.  Amid  the  decoration  of  flowers 
and  the  joy  of  the  school  children  we  felt  a  calam- 
ity of  some  kind  was  hanging  over  us,  and  when 


274  Below  the  Equator 

we  returned  home  the  presentiment  became  a  fact. 
Our  country  had  declared  war.  God  help  us  all ! 
Holy  Thursday  —  of  all  the  days  of  the  year,  the 
day  which  Christians  the  world  over  hold  sacred, 
the  day  on  which  our  Savior  on  the  eve  of  His 
great  sacrifice  sat  with  His  apostles  and  gave  us 
the  divine  sacrament  of  His  love  and  devotion! 
That  this  day  should  have  been  chosen  by  the 
Christian  world  to  feed  millions  more  to  the 
deadly  monster,  War.  Still,  we  realized  that  there 
was  no  other  course.  Our  country  must  uphold 
the  honor  of  her  flag.  She  could  not  act  other- 
wise.^ 

In  leaving  Brazil  we  faced  the  fact  that  although 
they  were  glad  to  receive  us,  accepting  us  with 
open  arms,  as  it  were,  and  asking  no  questions, 
they  would  not  permit  us  to  depart  without  paying 
a  fine.  I  think  it  was  ten  dollars  apiece  that  each 
passenger  had  to  contribute  before  leaving  the 
country.  I  suppose  this  tax  was  all  right,  but  It 
did  seem  funny. 


1  The  report  on  the  5th  of  April  that  war  was  declared  was 
a  day  too  soon.  It  really  was  declared  the  next  day,  however, 
the  6th. 


CHAPTER  XXXIX 

A   MODEL   PENITENTIARY 

SANTOS  Is  really  an  Island.  We  did  not  know 
this  at  first.  Half  the  year  she  Is  a  peninsula 
because  a  long  sandbar  connects  her  with  the  main- 
land, but  the  other  half  of  the  year  the  ocean 
washes  clear  across,  making  her  a  complete  Island. 
Her  market  Is  the  most  Interesting  of  any  that 
we  saw  In  South  America.  Everything  of  value 
seems  gathered  In  this  one  particular  spot.  It  is 
a  fine  place  not  only  to  purchase  but  to  watch  the 
people.  They  have  here  a  splendid  military 
academy  and  naval  school,  but  the  institution  of 
which  they  are  proudest  Is  the  penitentiary.  This 
is  a  model  both  as  regards  hygiene  and  tenants. 
It  Is  situated  near  the  river,  has  splendid  courts 
and  Interiors,  Is  well  ventilated,  and  has  neat 
kitchens  and  laundries.  Every  room  Is  well  lighted. 
The  cells  are  thirteen  feet  long  and  eighteen  feet 
wide,  containing  nice  folding  beds,  porcelain  bowl, 
and  comfortable  seats,  with  bookshelves  and  a 
long  bench.  All  the  cells  open  into  a  wide  corri- 
dor twenty  feet  wide.  There  are  Iron  and  marble 
staircases  and  elevators.     Best  of  all,  they  have 

275 


276  Below  the  Equator 

fifty  baths  at  the  service  of  the  prisoners,  who 
may  have  either  warm  or  cold  sea  water.  Their 
workshops  provide  all  sorts  of  occupations  for  the 
men.  This  prison  is  certainly  a  model  for  all 
cities  to  copy. 

I  have  talked  much  about  Brazil,  but  when  I 
remember  that  she  covers  more  ground  than  the 
whole  United  States  and  is  fifteen  times  as  large 
as  France,  I  realize  that,  after  all,  I  had  said 
little,  because  I  have  had  only  a  glimpse  of  her. 
On  the  fifth  of  April,  after  our  desajuno,  at  about 
eight  o'clock,  we  heard  that  an  English  ship  had 
come  into  port.  Within  an  hour  we  had  boarded 
her.  She  was  the  Festris,  Lamport  &  Holt  Line. 
A  more  beautiful  and  comfortable  ship  could  not 
be  found.  She  had  seventeen  thousand  tons  dis- 
placement and  sailed  early  in  the  morning.  To 
Mr.  Herbert  Hampshire,  the  manager  of  this  line 
in  Santos,  we  were  indebted  for  many  courtesies. 
He  and  his  charming  wife  and  child  accompanied 
us  to  Buenos  Aires.  We  had  a  fine  cabin  and  were 
most  comfortable,  although  we  could  not  help  a 
feeling  of  uneasiness.  We  were  now  at  war  with 
Germany  ourselves,  and  we  were  aware  that  a 
German  raider  in  these  waters  had  just  captured 
and  sunk  her  fourteenth  ship.  This  news  we 
learned  at  Santos.  The  raider  always  approached 
the  ship  she  wished  to  sink  in  the  guise  of  a  friend. 
She  carried  a  friendly  or  neutral  flag.     In  this 


I 


A  Model  Penitentiary  277 

subtle  way  she  would  come  close  to  her  intended 
victim,  and  when  within  the  proper  distance  would 
suddenly  drop  her  false  front  and  disclose  a  row 
of  perfectly  equipped  guns. 

The  captain  of  the  raider  was  a  German  count, 
of  most  agreeable  personality,  with  gentlemanly 
instincts,  and  certainly  with  a  keen  sense  of  his 
responsibilities.  His  method  of  dealing  with  these 
boats  which  it  was  his  duty  to  sink  contained  an 
element  of  humor.  He  carefully  took  the  crew 
and  the  people  on  his  own  boat,  treated  them  cour- 
teously and  commiserating  the  officers  who  were 
obliged  to  suffer  the  loss  of  their  ship.  He  said 
to  one  of  them,  "  I  know  exactly  how  you  feel, 
but  this  is  war.  I  have  no  choice.  The  work  is 
as  distasteful  to  me  as  it  is  to  you,  but  I  am  a 
soldier  and  must  obey  my  orders.  I  shall  not 
inflict  upon  you  and  your  fellow-officers  the  cruel 
sight  of  the  sinking  of  your  ship."  He  would  then 
send  them  below,  give  them  a  splendid  dinner  at 
which  champagne  was  provided,  and  when  they 
returned  there  would  be  no  signs  of  their  wrecked 
vessel !  She  had  already  found  her  grave  in  the 
cold,  clear  depths  of  the  Atlantic.  He  had  done 
this  to  fourteen  vessels.  When  his  own  boat  be- 
came overcrowded  with  his  enforced  guests,  he 
stopped  a  French  steamer,  put  all  his  passengers 
or  prisoners  aboard,  commanded  It  to  turn  back 
on  the  voyage  and  take  them  to  Rio  de  Janeiro. 


278  Below  the  Equator 

Before  seeing  them  off  he  disabled  one  of  the 
engines,  cut  the  masts  in  two  so  that  they  could 
not  carry  any  sail,  thus  putting  the  boat  in  such 
condition  that  she  must  travel  slowly  to  her  des- 
tination. This  gave  him  time  and  opportunity  to 
escape  with  his  villainous  little  craft  to  do  another 
trick  of  the  same  kind. 

As  all  this  occurred  while  we  were  In  Santos, 
the  excitement  ran  high.  It  was  under  these  cheer- 
ful conditions  that  we  started  homeward.  We  had 
f^ve  days  on  the  Atlantic  to  reach  Buenos  Aires, 
from  which  point  we  were  to  begin  our  real  jour- 
ney toward  the  United  States.  In  spite  of  the 
courteous  behavior  of  that  German  count,  we  had 
no  desire  to  meet  him  face  to  face.  The  Vestris 
was  a  most  Important  ship  and  the  eyes  of  Ger- 
many had  been  upon  her  for  a  long  time.  Her 
destination  was  Buenos  Aires,  where  she  would 
remain  for  two  weeks,  taking  on  a  cargo  of  meat 
which  was  to  go  back  to  England.  This  meat 
alone  would  be  worth  five  million  dollars  and 
would  be  enough  to  feed  the  entire  English  army 
for  four  days.  She  was  a  prize  well  worth  obtain- 
ing. She  had  had  an  exciting  time  crossing  the 
Atlantic,  and  many  thrilling  tales  were  told  us  of 
that  experience.  Two  torpedoes  had  just  missed 
her.  She  had  gone  across  to  the  coast  of  Africa 
and  from  there  had  zig-zagged  over  the  ocean  in 
order  to  reach  Buenos  Aires.    Germany  was  lying 


A  Model  Penitentiary  279 

in  wait  to  catch  her  on  the  return  trip  and  had 
once  sent  her  a  wireless  saying,  "We  shall  get 
you  before  you  are  far  on  your  wayl'*  The 
audacity  of  it!  And  pleasant  news  for  us  who 
were  on  board  and  who  knew  of  the  success  this 
raider  had  already  met  with  I  On  her  way  down, 
the  Vestris  had  touched  at  New  York,  but  every 
passenger  from  that  port  had  canceled  his  passage, 
so  that  on  this  splendid  vessel  capable  of  carrying 
hundreds  safely  there  were  just  twelve  passengers.^ 
Captain  Davies  was  a  man  of  great  force.  He 
was  absolutely  fearless,  but  was,  of  course,  taking 
no  chances.  He  did  much  to  cheer  our  spirits, 
for  I  can  testify  that  that  dozen  passengers  were 
every  one  nervous.  The  boat  was  the  usual  dark 
gray  in  color  and  at  night  was  shrouded  in  dark- 
ness to  add  to  our  gloom.  We  were  swathed  in 
heavy  canvas  nightly  for  fear  of  an  accidental 
escape  of  a  ray  of  light.  Placed  everywhere  was 
the  notice,  "  The  captain  relies  on  every  passenger 
to  pull  up  the  shutters  when  the  lights  are  on.'' 


^  Among  the  passengers  was  Captain  Carlos  Daireaux  who 
had  been  naval  attache  in  Washington  and  was  returning  to  his 
home  to  take  charge  of  one  of  Argentina's  two  dreadnaughts. 
He  had  been  given  the  captaincy  of  the  Rivadaria,  the  largest 
warship  afloat.  Captain  Daireaux'  charming  wife  and  children 
accompanied  him. 

Argentina  sent  him  as  its  representative  to  the  United  States, 
where  he  has  been  received  and  honored.  Quite  recently  in  New 
York  we  had  the  pleasure  of  going  aboard  the  Rivadaria  with 
a  party  of  friends  and  enjoyed  renewing  our  acquaintance  with 
the  Commandant  aboard  the  wonderful  warship. 


280  Below  the  Equator 

Only  one  small  light  was  permitted  In  each  cabin. 

Every  blind  was  drawn  and  fastened  before  the 
lights  were  turned  on,  and  the  decks  were  shrouded 
with  the  canvas  before  sunset.  Each  passenger 
was  put  under  oath  not  to  break  the  rule,  yet  even 
this  was  not  considered  sufficient.  Guards  were 
stationed  to  see  that  no  one  became  careless.  We 
had  no  head-light  or  tail-light,  and  I  could  not 
help  wondering  which  was  the  greater  danger  — 
to  meet  the  raider  or  to  encounter  a  friendly  vessel 
traveling  like  ourselves  at  full  speed  In  the  pitch 
darkness.  The  steward  Instructed  us  all  carefully 
as  to  how  to  use  the  life  belts,  and  then  remarked 
as  "he  moved  away  from  me,  *'  Madame,  I  will 
leave  It  here  by  your  bed  so  that  it  will  be  handy !  " 

The  captain  told  us  that  in  case  of  attack  he 
had  brought  a  powder  which  would  envelope  us 
in  smoke  and  conceal  us  from  the  enemy,  thus 
giving  us  a  chance  to  escape.  With  all  these  pleas- 
ant suggestions,  we  began  to  realize  what  war 
meant;  this  was  real  danger.  Every  now  and 
then  along  the  coast  we  were  shown  a  wreck. 
Many  a  splendid  sbJp  had  here  met  her  fate,  and 
though  the  days  at  bea  were  particularly  bright 
we  were  not  a  very  gay  or  cheerful  party. 

Professor  Jordan  of  the  University  of  Chicago 
was  one  of  the  passengers.  He  was  going  from 
New  York  to  Buenos  Aires  to  make  some  bac- 
teriological tests  for  a  large  Chicago  firm.    We 


A  Model  Penitentiary  281 

enjoyed  talking  with  him  very  much,  and  In  his 
presence  forgot  our  own  gloomy  thoughts.  One 
beautiful  morning  as  we  were  steaming  quietly 
along  a  woman  sprang  up  and  screamed  wildly, 
"  Oh !    Look  at  that  submarine !  " 

The  excitement  which  ensued  was  indescribable. 
It  was  Sunday  morning  and  most  of  the  passen- 
gers were  at  church  in  the  salon.  Professor 
Jordan  and  I  sprang  to  our  feet  and  with  the 
few  who  were  on  deck  we  could  see  the  object 
plainly.  It  might  easily  have  been  taken  for  the 
periscope  of  a  submarine.  Passengers  forgot  their 
religion  for  the  moment,  and  after  getting  over 
my  first  horror,  I  rushed  to  find  my  husband.  But 
a  sailor  who  was  watching  the  object  quieted  the 
excitement  as  quickly  as  It  had  been  made.  "  It's 
only  a  whale,"  he  said.  This  shows,  however,  to 
what  a  nervous  tension  we  all  were  keyed.  I  think 
that  most  of  us  felt  like  throwing  the  woman  over- 
board to  feed  the  whale. 

The  night  which  followed  was  glorious.  I 
watched  the  moon  rise,  full  and  beautiful,  at  about 
six  o'clock.  Our  three  Crosses  were  unusually 
luminous,  and  In  spite  of  the  moonlight  the  stars 
were  wonderfully  brilliant.  The  next  morning  we 
had  another  excitement.  We  observed  a  vessel 
coming  a  little  closer  than  the  captain  liked.  He 
kept  his  glasses  bent  upon  her  constantly  and  was 
careful  to  keep  within  the  three-mile  limit.     No 


282  Below  the  Equator 

vessel  can  be  attacked  off  the  coast  of  a  neutral 
nation  if  she  is  running  within  three  miles  of 
shore.  I  questioned  the  captain  about  our  course. 
There  was  an  element  of  danger  in  lying  too  close 
to  the  shore,  also.  Too  many  rocks !  Therefore 
we  surmised  that  he  was  anxious  about  the  vessel. 
His  reply  to  my  question  was,  "  I  think  the  boat 
is  all  right,  but  I  never  saw  her  like  in  these 
waters  before,  and  I  am  taking  no  chances.''  She 
proved  to  be  the  French  boat  which  we  had  exam- 
ined in  Santos  with  a  view  to  taking  it  in  case  none 
other  came  in  in  time. 

In  spite  of  our  fears  and  premonitions,  in  which 
the  number  thirteen  had  played  so  conspicuous  a 
part,  we  reached  Montevideo,  Uruguay,  in  safety. 
What  a  grand  city  this  is ! 

Again  we  had  a  long  day  in  Montevideo 
and  enjoyed  it  to  the  full,  driving  about  the 
city,  wandering  through  its  handsome  plazas  and 
public  buildings,  and  going  out  to  the  wonderfully 
attractive  Parque  Hotel.  There  we  had  a  nice 
hour  watching  the  bathers  and  enjoying  the  bril- 
liant Uruguayan  sunshine. 

We  reached  Buenos  Aires  in  safety.  Again  we 
crossed  the  Andes  (for  the  sixth  time),  caught 
our  ship  at  Valparaiso,  repeated  our  lazy  journey 
up  the  Pacific,  and  finally  reached  the  Isthmus  in 
safety. 

Nothing  of  importance  occurred  on  the  home- 


A  Model  Penitentiary  283 

ward  voyage  except  that  the  French  captain  told 
us  that  he  was  making  the  thirteenth  voyage  of  his 
boat !  Another  link  in  our  chain  of  thirteen !  We 
did  have  one  experience,  however,  which  saddened 
us  and  is  worth  relating.  At  Payta  the  captain 
had  a  wireless  asking  him  to  leave  his  course  and 
look  for  a  vessel  which  was  fifteen  days  overdue. 
In  his  chart-room  he  showed  us  just  where  this 
vessel  was  when  last  heard  from.  She  had  sent  a 
wireless  that  her  engine  was  disabled,  that  she 
was  helpless  and  needed  assistance  badly.  Num- 
berless messages  had  been  sent  out  in  the  attempt 
to  reach  her,  but  there  had  been  not  a  word  in 
reply.  There  were  so  many  currents  and  such 
strong  ones  here  that  a  vessel  in  the  straits  in 
which  she  evidently  was,  would  surely  be  in 
peril.  Unless  she  should  be  driven  toward  the 
coast — a  hundred  miles  away  —  she  would  drift 
out  to  sea  in  the  Pacific,  which  here  is  about  at 
its  widest  portion,  the  first  land  being  the  Aleutian 
Islands,  thousands  of  miles  away. 

We  went  hundreds  of  miles  out  of  our  course 
searching  for  this  unfortunate  vessel,  sending  out 
Marconis  all  the  time,  losing  two  days'  time,  and 
took  a  chance  of  missing  our  steamer  in  conse- 
quence and  being  detained  ten  days  while  we 
waited  for  another.  But  we  did  not  complain. 
We  looked  upon  this  excursion  as  a  duty.  Finally, 
however,  the  captain  turned  in  his  course.    He  had 


284  Below  the  Equator 

heard  nothing,  nor  have  they  heard  anything  since. 
Of  the  fate  of  that  lost  ship  no  man  knows. 

At  the  Isthmus  we  certainly  saw  signs  of  war. 
Usually  the  ships  come  within  half  or  a  quarter 
of  a  mile  of  the  entrance.  Now  they  are  stopped 
three  miles  out  at  sea.  The  army  officers  took 
charge  of  us,  examining  everything  and  everybody 
scrupulously.  A  charming  young  Peruvian  with 
the  German  name  of  Schultz  had  been  most  agree- 
able to  us.  He  was  going  to  New  Orleans  to  visit 
his  father's  family.  He  was  taken  in  charge  at 
once  and  we  did  not  see  him  again.  Whether  he 
was  sent  back  to  South  America  or  permitted  to 
proceed  under  guard  across  the  Isthmus,  we  never 
knew.  Of  course  no  German  would  be  permitted 
to  pass  through  the  Canal.  All  the  Peruvian  ships 
carried  German,  French,  Swedish,  or  English  cap- 
tains. The  insurance  companies  in  England  will 
not  insure  a  boat  captained  by  a  Peruvian.  Many 
of  our  officers  on  the  Montaro  were  Germans  — 
fine,  splendid  young  fellows  who  had  been  in  the 
service  for  years.  Now  they  were  thrown  out  of 
employment  and  not  permitted  to  enter  the  Canal. 
We  were  not  unprepared,  therefore,  to  hear  of 
the  rigorous  treatment  accorded  our  young  Peru- 
vian acquaintance.  But  war  Is  war,  and  Uncle  Sam 
has  his  eye  on  our  national  safety.  Passports  were 
required  of  all  of  us.  The  examination  of  bag- 
gage was  Imperative.     Surely  If  there  was  a  spot 


A  Model  Penitentiary  285 

on  earth  where  one  feels  proud  of  being  an  Amer- 
ican, it  is  the  Isthmus  of  Panama.  Controlled  by 
the  army,  its  system  of  discipline  is  perfect.  Nets 
were  spread,  mines  laid,  and  everything  already 
prepared  to  defend  this  important  key  to  our 
country^s  commerce. 

We  barely  made  connection  here,  and  as  we 
drew  off  the  dock  I  called  my  husband's  attention 
to  the  number  of  the  dock  we  were  leaving — 
thirteen!  Was  it  a  good  omen,  after  all?  It  had 
certainly  followed  us  like  a  friend  throughout  all 
our  journey,  and  we  were  beginning  to  believe  that 
it  was  not  an  unlucky  number.  Although  I  did 
not  know  it  then,  it  began  the  very  day  we  left 
Chicago.  We  discovered  after  we  got  home  that 
the  bag  of  gold  which  we  had  taken  and  which 
my  husband  had  guarded  so  carefully  all  during 
the  trip  was  by  our  bank  in  Chicago  stamped 
number  thirteen !  We  then  and  there  decided  that 
we  should  in  future  hold  to  it  and  swear  our 
preference  for  it  in  the  face  of  any  other. 

Many  of  the  wives  of  the  officers  stationed  at 
the  Isthmus  came  on  the  boat  with  us.  Their 
husbands  were  all  ordered  off  to  war,  so,  gathering 
hastily  their  Lares  and  Penates,  they  joined  us. 
They  told  us  many  interesting  events  which  had 
occurred  after  war  was  declared.  At  the  Isthmus 
and  at  almost  every  little  port  on  the  Pacific  we 
had  seen  interned  German  vessels.    Germany  cer- 


286  Below  the  Equator 

tainly  had  an  enormous  commercial  record  In  this 
part  of  the  world.  The  interned  German  officers 
and  men  numbered  thousands.  At  the  Isthmus 
a  great  many  of  their  families  had  joined  them, 
and  there  they  lived  quietly  and  happily  until  the 
war  was  declared.  The  question  came  up  now  — 
what  was  to  be  done  with  them  ?  After  much  con- 
sultation, they  were  put  on  a  small  but  pretty 
island  which  contained  a  cozy  little  hotel. 
Here  they  were  apparently  contented,  but  the 
whole  Isthmus  was  one  afternoon  thrown  into 
consternation.  A  narrow  strip  of  water  lay  be- 
tween the  Island  and  the  mainland,  and  across  it 
the  music  of  the  Victor  machines  could  be  plainly 
heard.  What  was  the  horror  of  the  Americans 
to  hear  "Hoch  der  Kaiser!"  and  "Wacht  am 
Rhein"  come  floating  over  to  them!  The  Ger- 
mans were  loyal  and  devoted  to  their  country. 
But  It  did  not  seem  just  right  or  dignified  for  the 
Americans  across  the  water  to  have  to  sit  and 
listen  daily  to  these  musical  contributions.  So 
the  prisoners  were  notified  that  they  would  be 
expected  hereafter  to  curtail  their  musical  num- 
bers to  the  extent  of  the  two  herein  mentioned. 

Through  the  Gulf  of  Mexico  and  the  Caribbean 
Sea  we  had  once  more  the  joy  of  a  darkened  ship, 
and  In  the  narrow  passage  between  Yucatan  and 
Cuba  we  were  a  trifle  nervous  about  mines.  That 
very  week  a  vessel  had  gone  down  in  the  Carib- 


A  Model  Penitentiary  287 

bean  with  every  soul  on  board,  and  nobody  knows 
to  this  day  what  happened.  Wisely,  everything 
which  occurs  in  war  times  is  not  given  out.  Btit' 
whispers  came  our  way  and  we  knew. 

With  all  the  trials  and  discomforts  (and  they 
were  many)  of  our  six  months'  stay  in  South 
America,  however,  we  must  record  it  as  the  finest 
experience  of  our  lives.  We  realize  that  this  mag- 
nificent country  lying  to  the  south  of  us  has  a  great 
future  and  that  in  that  future  we  have  a  big 
interest  —  because  South  America  can  and  prob- 
ably will  eventually  feed  the  world.  The  splendid 
fertility  of  Brazil  alone  would  supply  that  demand, 
and  when  we  reckon  the  immensity  of  the  othef 
countries  —  their  industries,  their  wealth,  their 
energetic  and  capable  people,  we  feel  justified  in 
making  the  prediction  that  she  will  not  only  do 
that,  but  will  help  us  to  upbuild  and  enrich,  after 
the  great  war  is  over.  Already  she  is  helping, 
for  in  the  few  short  months  elapsing  since  we 
were  there.  North  Americans  have  opened  banks, 
started  stores,  and  bought  many  homes.  Yes, 
South  America  was  a  revelation.  The  wealth  of 
the  whole  country,  the  inexhaustible  mines,  the 
splendor  of  the  scenery,  the  energy,  culture,  and 
charm  of  the  people  —  the  memory  of  it  all  can 
never  fade.  El  Misti,  Aconcagua,  standing  aloof 
and  glorious  In  your  splendid  heights,  with  your 
snow  garments  wrapped  about  you  like  royal  er- 


288  Below  the  Equator 

mine,  and  holding  in  your  arms  your  smiling,  silver 
lakes  —  does  the  future  hold  that  sight  for  our  eyes 
once  fnore?  Will  the  brilliant  Southern  Cross 
with  its  luminous  Pointers  ever  glow  in  the  heav- 
ens again  for  us?  Who  shall  say?  Regretfully 
we  bid  you  farewell. 

No  matter  how  much  pleasure  one  may  find  in 
travel,  the  finest  part  of  a  journey  to  a  far  country 
Is  the  return  home  again.  The  soil  of  one's  native 
land  feels  good  beneath  one's  feet.  After  a  short 
stay  in  New  Orleans,  we  reached  Chicago  without 
accident  or  Incident,  and,  despite  all  our  endeavors 
to  avoid  the  date,  we  arrived  on  the  thirteenth! 


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